Battery?

[Evan DeLucia]

A couple of questions... I'm sailing on the original lead acid batteries on my 2012 355. Time to upgrade. I'm keen to spend the $ on lithium and thought I would go with AGM. Will the AGM work OK with my current stock charger? Also, and I'm a bit embarrassed to ask this question, what size batteries do I need? I'm 2000 miles away from my baby and would like to order soon. Be well! Evan

[Evan DeLucia]

My survey document from four years ago says: 

Batteries: (2) Group 4D Flooded

Is this sufficient to start shopping?

[Marvin Isgur]

My boat, hull 3, has a third battery that is a standard size.  I do not have the specs on it with me tho. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2022, at 7:46 PM, Evan DeLucia <deluc...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[bill pittore]

4D is the size specification. The battery compartment is sized to hold two Group 4D batteries. Not sure which charger you have but some chargers show slightly different specs for AGM charge profile vs. wet cell. Ideally you would want to set the bulk/absorption and float settings to whatever the battery manufacturer specifies. The original charger that was in my boat (#77) was a Charles 30 amp charger and on the back side of the charger there’s a switch to select Lead Acid, Gel, or AGM. You might be able to slide a thin piece of wood or metal behind the charger to slide the switch all the way to the right (while facing the front of the charger) to put it into AGM mode. All the way to the left is Lead acid mode and Gel is in the middle. Otherwise you have to loosen it from the mounting to get access.  

Bill

On Mar 6, 2022, at 7:46 PM, Evan DeLucia <deluc...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Dhyanesh Kostka]

My Catalina is from 2013 and the Battery's aren't the best anymore. So I thought about replacement.

My idea ist to put some lithium Batteries under the bed in the rear sleeping room. It's expensive but in long term it should save money. As side effects I have a bit more space in the main cabin.

Dhyanesh

Sorry for my not so cool English. 

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[STEWART SMITH]

Even, I am hull #80 and changed out the original batteries a little over a year ago. I went with AGM X 2 house and 1 smaller engine start. I have the exact battery listings in my log at the boat and will send to you within the next few days when I go down to the dock. From measuring after the fact it looks like I could have fit a 3rd house battery in compartment but the 2 I have give me 400 amp hours not including the engine start battery. I love them as I do not need to check the water levels every few months as before. If you read about AGM batteries you will see the benefits. They are really pricey though I mean really pricey ha haaaaaaa. I'll get back to you with my info. Take care Stu Smith Pelican #80

On March 6, 2022 at 7:32 PM Evan DeLucia <deluc...@gmail.com> wrote:

A couple of questions... I'm sailing on the original lead acid batteries on my 2012 355. Time to upgrade. I'm keen to spend the $ on lithium and thought I would go with AGM. Will the AGM work OK with my current stock charger? Also, and I'm a bit embarrassed to ask this question, what size batteries do I need? I'm 2000 miles away from my baby and would like to order soon. Be well! Evan

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[Jonathan Salter]

I just replaced the batteries in ours this past fall, 2011 Hull #9 and the batteries were original. After going around with the thought of LiFe batteries I settle on just doing another round of flooded Lead Acid. Mostly this was because I haven’t made up my mind on how I want the electrical/charger/inverter all set up and I didn’t want to be forced into changing to a battery charger I didn’t want in the end.

I have a Charles 30A charger also, and same setup described earlier, but these aren’t compatible with Lithium.

I bought these batteries since they were fairly inexpensive and available locally. They fit like a glove:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT8274?impressionRank=1

Jon Salter

Salty Cloud, #9

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 7, 2022, at 8:18 AM, STEWART SMITH <stusm...@cox.net> wrote:

 Even, I am hull #80 and changed out the original batteries a little over a year ago. I went with AGM X 2 house and 1 smaller engine start. I have the exact battery listings in my log at the boat and will send to you within the next few days when I go down to the dock. From measuring after the fact it looks like I could have fit a 3rd house battery in compartment but the 2 I have give me 400 amp hours not including the engine start battery. I love them as I do not need to check the water levels every few months as before. If you read about AGM batteries you will see the benefits. They are really pricey though I mean really pricey ha haaaaaaa. I'll get back to you with my info. Take care Stu Smith Pelican #80

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[Mark Hensley]

The third battery I had installed during commissioning, which is a dedicated “emergency” starting battery, is a Group 31 size, which is in addition to the two 4D house batteries.

Mark

[Zach Smith]

I upgraded my boat with a full Victron lithium system last summer.  Tons of capacity - I can sail for 2+ days without running the engine to charge, or run the aircon for 2-3 hours off battery power only.  Also lets me use a single 30a shore power connection since the Victron inverter buffers out the peaky draws like the a/c compressor starting.  Also lets me use a small Honda 2000i generator to run the aircons for extended periods of time at anchor which wasn't possible before due to the peak loads from the compressor.

All in all, I love the system, the only real downside is price. Here's my full schematic if anyone else is curious:  https://www.dropbox.com/s/qdo4m7jatyge7hq/Smalle%20Boat%20Electronics%20-%20Rev%20C.pdf?dl=0

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Zach Smith

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[bill pittore]

My setup looks pretty much like yours. I started with 2 of the Victron 200Ah batteries and just ordered a third. I did a couple of things differently. I put the bilge pump directly on the 12V bus before the battery protect. If for some reason I shut the switch off just before the battery protect and forgot to turn it on or if the battery protect decides to disconnect, the bilge pump is still working. For the alternator I have a Balmar regulator and I rigged up a solid state relay that connects to the charge enable output of the VEBus BMS. If the BMS disables charging then the regulator turns off and the alternator stops charging.  Because I turn off the alternator via the charge enable I have the output of the alternator connected to the battery side of the Cyril Li-Charge relay. This way I won’t get any sort of load dump issue with the alternator. Thanks for sharing your schematic. What program did you use to draw it? Looks nice.

Bill

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