Always Only You 2011
Alma Wass
It seems like there's been an update of some sort. I have "always on" and "show complications" turned on in my settings. When my watch first goes into rest mode (after I put my wrist down), the screen dims and continues to show all the complications, as it has always done. But lately it seems like sometimes it stops showing the complications and just shows the time until I raise it up. Has anyone else noticed this? Just shows the time in the upper right corner.
Try simply holding the power button on your watch until the screen where you can emergency call/siren pops up. That fixed mine. Apparently whenever you do that it toggles Reserve Battery mode on and off and when that is on, only the digital clock shows.
I was seeing this exact same thing. I shut down the watch completely for a few minutes. booted it back up and it seems to be working as normal now. In wrist down mode, it just fades the regular clock face instead of the simple digital time face.
I followed first hint in this article ( -apple-watch-only-shows-the-time-heres-the-real-fix/) and it resolved issue with only showing time when wrist is down. Mentioned button is the one that you need to hold to get into sos or shutdown menu, not the crown. Once you are in the menu just press cancel and watch face starts behaving as expected again. Seems like something chashes on the watch and it gets stuck in power saving mode of some sort.
I had the same issue on my Ultra that started after a full restore. What I did that worked was to hard reset the watch: press and hold both the crown and right button for at least 10 seconds until the Apple logo appears, then release. I hope this works for you too! Cheers.
Should the issue persist after that, or if you are already running the latest software, try unpairing your Apple Watch and setting it up again. When you unpair, a backup of your Apple Watch is automatically created.
That's the thing; when this happens, it only shows the time. And what's more odd is that it's not consistent behavior, it only happens sometimes. Right now it's showing all the complications even when not in "wrist up" mode. But then sometimes I'll look down and all the complications will be missing, with just the time in white showing in the upper right hand corner (where it normally displays when the complications are showing).
I think this is a new update, or at least a recent update. The watch used to just dim whatever app you were using, and if it had a stopwatch or timer, it would freeze it at the moment it dimmed. But now it blurs the whole app and puts just the time on the screen. I guess it's a good thing, I just had never seen it do that before and was confused.
Thanks, I think you got it. I wonder if there was an update the caused that setting to default to 2 minutes (where it was set when I just checked). I never changed that, but I know that it didn't used to do that behavior. I switched it to one hour, lets see if that does the trick. Odd that you can't turn it off altogether.
I can probably do some digging in here and find a thread where the author reported it as a bug. In a way, it sort of is a bug because it will do that while you're actively reading a text message that you just started reading. You have to tap the screen to get the clock to go away so you can resume reading the text. The situation that was brought up by another user was actually for a different app and not messages. I used messages as an example.
Hi, I have similar issue, indeed return to clock was set to 2 minutes, without me doing it. So now I have changed to 'always', but the time overlay still appear. I've click the crown to exit the app and return to home screen. Wrist down and the time overlay still there ??
This was my third MercyMe concert to date, and each time, lead singer Bart Millard is quick with humor and a chill delivery that always takes me by surprise. He does well with connecting their songs to the stories that inspired them or life events that keep holding the songs to be true.
The song was played with a video in the background of a close friend of the MercyMe band. Gary Miracle used to work with MercyMe, and in January 2020, Miracle lost both arms and both legs after being airlifted to the hospital with septic shock due to flu complications. His story inspired the song, and the video at the concert showed footage of Miracle in the hospital recovering, all the way through his progress in therapy and adapting to life without limbs. He learns to use prosthetic arms and legs and at one point is shown running a marathon with his close friends.
For decades, these bands have been bringing music into our homes, cars, businesses, headphones and lives. Seeing them come together is something beautiful, and this concert with my dad and sister is an unmatchable experience. I loved hearing their own faith stories written into each of their songs and seeing them all come together. Concerts rarely disappoint, and this one was definitely worth the late Thursday night.
Hotend it new
Filament is new (tried diferent PLA Basic, PLA Togh, PLA Silk, about 10 different spool- non older then 2 Weeks)
Extruder has been cleaned
PTFE tubes are clean
no clogging (tested hotend and extruder manually)
cutter not new but hardly any sign of usage
and there is the problem. After cutting the filament, the AMS is able to retract the filament only so far, that it always and I mean always breaks within the sensor. So the is always a piece of filament within the sensor. However, the extruder wheels can not grab the small piece of filament within the sensor. So I always have to stop the printing process and open the extruder or I can manually feed filament and push the piece of filament through the sensor. This is of course not possible when the printing process is paused.
So what is happening. I assume, that the cutter is not completely cutting the filament. Therefore, when the ams is pulling the filament back, it drags the filament out of the nozzel and when the filament is outside the extruder, as a result of the jolt, the filament breaks. This would explain why all, and again I mean all broken pieces have exactly the same length and look like small candles.
When it broke today I open the extruder and removed just the big yellow toothwheel, and you can clearly see on the picture, that the flament which is stuck in the sensor, ist still connected throuch a thing fibre with the filament within the hotend.
Furthermore, on the breaking plane, at least I think, I can see, that one side looks smotth and cutt and the other side look torn.
What do you think?- Anyone facing similar problems?- Sor far I can hardly finish any printing job at all. It happens at no specific printing phase, tried different prints.
I have the feeling that it happens more often when I use PLA Tough, what underlines the cutter theorie. I has never happened with support PLA.
I had double sets of spare parts, so I swapped E V E R Y T H I N G in BOTH!!!
(Complete nozzle, complete hardened steel extruder, first stage ams feeder, ptfe all the way so yeah literally every inch of tubing, cutter, wiper and even changed mods with fresh tight fit ptfe buttons, printerhead bend fix)
Then vacuumed them thoroughly while using amazon fresh brush-heads,
cleaned periferals with a toothbrush and canned air, wiped with quetips and isopropyl alcohol, wettexed every inch with ISO and a nice brush.
Yes I prolly have some sort of OCD, I do the maintenance service runthrough like clockwork every 4th week (not month but 4th week, even pinned down to Thursday night and forward due to wonderful trait of insomnia)
Both printers started the warning messages of broken filament, failed filament withdrawal from toolhead, broken filament and warnings that heatbed may cause nozzle clogs - IN BOTH FRIKKIN PRINTERS WITHIN HRS OF CRANKING THEM BEAUTYS BACK ON UP!!!
Here comes the highlights!!!
Also should point out - I have not put back a cracked roll of trouble - swapped for new ones in each and every spot! So excluded bad rolls since I had some crazy troubles earlier with 3Dfils electric blue petg - meaning that everything had been swapped out maybe 2 months ago so nothing was particularly old!
You are of course correct. If the filament is brickle then it could break. So within the last few days I used many different filaments which I already used and worked just fine days ago and even complete new spools I just received from Bambu the other day (I only use the bambu filaments). What can I say- it happens on every filament except the support filament (and this is already several months old)
and as for a matter of fact the filament always and really always breaks at the exact same pistion within the filament sensor (not in a tube, not i the AMS, not in the extruder or in the hotend) I, but I have to admit I am not an expert on 3D printing, cannot believe that the filament is the issue.
However, as I really liek the X1c and I want my students to work on 3D printers, ordered a second one, which arrives tomorrow and I will use the filament which broek in the new printer- just to exclude the filament as the origin of the failure.
just like you I tried a lot of thinhs- echanged every single part I could (next week i will get a new extruder, cutter lever, cutter knives and tubes) and even disassemblied the AMS, the extruder and the cleaned everything. There was no filament, nor pieces of clogging no signs of any dirt or anything within the AMS or the Extruder.
And the filament does not break within the AMS or the tubes. I runs as smoothly as it can get through the pipes. And as the filament always breaks at the very same position- just within the filament sensor, I cannot believe that the filament, nor the AMS nor the extruder nor the tubes are the problem.
I also feeded the extruder manually to clean it and make sure the flow is smooth an constant. Everything just perfect.