Guitar Rig Audio Interface

[Vicki]

Yournext problem is that if you just use a simple interface like your second example, you will successfully connect one to the other. Joy.

Short-lived joy.

Guitars are not really meant to be run 'clean as a whistle' into an audio system. It will sound thin & flat, nothing like a guitar through an amp, even one set to 'clean'.

That sets you up for a third option - an interface with built-in guitar amp emulation; this would mean you get zero latency, as you can feed the sound directly back to yourself without going through the computer [whether simultaneously recording or not].

To do that as economically as possible, I'd be looking at something like the Line 6 UX1 or UX2. You can pick them up pretty cheaply on eBay these days. Software is still available from Line 6, even though they're now out of production.

The main reason that plugging most electric guitars directly into a computer probably won't work well is that the passive pickups found in most electric guitars have high impedance, and the input that you plug in to should have higher impedance than the output to get a reasonable level of signal.

The simplest device you could buy that might get you usable recordings would be a DI (which solves the impedance problem), or a DI & Preamp (which would give you some more level). Any powered guitar pedal might also do these jobs for you too. You do not necessarily need an audio interface.

The reason why it still may be a good move to buy an interface is that assuming it has a guitar or instrument input, it does the job of DI and preamp, and it will likely have drivers and hardware that can achieve lower latency than the built-in audio on the computer, and probably have better audio quality too - plus, you're less likely to need special cables!

no , i want to use as arduino .what im really trying to learn is about arduino in a practical application , and guitar interface is because its an old project . i used to make guitar apms and pedals . so thought as a next step i would try to covert the analog signals into digital using an arduino

Maybe it would be a good startingpoint to actually describw what you want to, if you have done any research on your own and what it is that you have problems with. If you want a "gimme all", then be prepared to be asked for a bunch more bucks than you want to spend.

zwieblum:

Maybe it would be a good startingpoint to actually describw what you want to, if you have done any research on your own and what it is that you have problems with. If you want a "gimme all", then be prepared to be asked for a bunch more bucks than you want to spend.

ouch

aah..the amplication part of guitar input is done . now i need an ADC to turn the input signal into 16bit digital output . i cant use the arduino direct as an adc because it has a low resolution . so was thinking if i could use some thing like ADS1115 ADC 16 BIT ADC to covert input signal to digital and send that to arduino digital input and somehow code the arduino in such a way that when i will connect it to pc it will show as an audio usb interface .

what else?..umm i have tiny bit of coding knowledge as i have to learn C and html in my college but apart from that youtube and forum like these are my best friend

"USB soundcards" use these kind of specialized chips and that's why you can buy a complete USB soundcard for less than $5 USD, or you can get a Behringer USB-guitar interface for about $30. These things don't have a programmable microcontroller.

You can get microcontroller chips with a "real" USB interface but writing your own firmware to work with the standard Windows or Mac USB audio drivers is "advanced programming". Writing your own firmware and a custom driver is even more advanced.

If you want to do digital signal processing you can also get [u]spealized DSP chips[/u]. But again this is advanced programming, some of these chips can be expensive, and you might have to buy a development kit for a few hundred dollars.

I assume most digital guitar "stomp boxes" use DSP chips. I'm pretty-sure most inexpensive effect boxes are analog, or maybe they use some very-simple digital processing (perhaps without a microprocessor).

P.S.

It's not practical or economical to build something like [u]this[/u]. They have a team of electronic, mechanical, and software engineers and automated production equipment. The fixed-costs are high but the variable (per-unit) costs are low. They buy the components in bulk, the custom parts are manufactured in bulk, and assembly is done with very-little per-unit labor, and it's low-cost labor.

For the same reasons it's not worth repairing a unit like that. Diagnosis & repair typically requires an hour (or more) of expensive-skilled labor, and if the repair is not done at the factory the replacement parts have to be purchased & shipped in small quantities.

There is always the Teensy with an Audio interface shield not the cheapest of solutions but you will the advantage of being able to interfere with the audio. I think the 3.6 supports Audio over USB but it's 16bit 44.1khz.

I have a Teensy guitar audio shield that does all the complex preamp, gain control and low-noise analog power generation for a high quality guitar DSP processor. It allows you to start playing with and designing your own effects on day one instead of messing around with a lot of analog design, soldering and noisy DIY circuits.

At its most basic, a USB audio interface transforms analog signals (like those coming from a microphone or an instrument) into digital signals (the 1s and 0s your computer uses) and vice versa, so you can record audio into a digital audio workstation (DAW) and play it back through speakers or headphones.

You can get started with a USB interface for less than $50, with products like the Behringer U-phoria UM2 USB audio interface and the M-Audio M-Track Solo USB audio interface, which both feature a single microphone preamp and an instrument input for directly recording an electric guitar or bass.

Thankfully, there are many affordable options, such as the Focusrite Scarlett 18i8 3rd Gen USB audio interface, which boasts four microphone preamps and four line-level inputs for things like keyboards, drum machines, and external hardware.

Affordable options for ADAT-equipped microphone preamps include the Behringer ADA8200 8-channel microphone preamp, the Focusrite Scarlett OctoPre 8-channel microphone preamp, and the Audient ASP800 8-channel microphone preamp.

Higher-priced interfaces will often boast top-tier converters, which deliver detailed and transparent audio. But converter technology has come a long way, and even the most affordable USB audio interfaces feature converters that will yield a high-quality result.

Project studios tend to have more demanding needs, so they will typically require USB audio interfaces with a lot of I/O (inputs and outputs), higher quality converters, built-in DSP acceleration for plugins, and additional connections for MIDI, networked audio, and more.

Some examples of popular USB interfaces for project studios are the Universal Audio Apollo Twin USB DUO desktop audio interface, PreSonus Studio 1824c USB-C audio interface, and the Arturia AudioFuse Studio USB audio interface. But there are many options available to fit your workflow.

A USB audio interface connects to your computer via a USB cable, which can also be used to power some interfaces right from your computer. Currently, most USB audio interfaces are equipped with USB 2.0 ports. However, there is a handful of USB 3.0 interfaces from Audient, RME, Steinberg, and MOTU.

I'm busking on the streets with a guitar and a microphone, while adding effects like looping or reverb through my iPhone. For this, so far, I used the Zoom U-44 portable USB audio interface, which is portable, but still a bit bulky (I'm backpacking, so I have very low space).

After searching around for THE ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT MOBILE audio interface that can handle both a guitar and a microphone (and is compatible with iOS) for over a year now, I still found a new option today, that I didn't know of before:

I immediately fell in love with the aforementioned ESI UGM96, as it is very portable (I admire how they decided to only offer TRS, instead of XLR, which saves a lot of space). It is discontinued though, in favour of a bigger item, the ESI UGM192 ( -audio.com/products/ugm192/), which I don't like that much. I googled a bit, and found this:

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