New Cat repairs.
Marcin Wichary
dwight
If you haven't pulled too hard on the disk, it is a good chance it can be repaired.
If in your frustration you yanked the disk out, you will have destroyed the head assembly.
The disk drives are almost impossible to find but there are options.
As for the screw, I wish you good luck. Once open, I can describe how to remove the
drive and fix it.
Dwight
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 2:53:20 PM
To: cano...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Canon Cat] New Cat repairs.
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Canon Cat" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to canon-cat+...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to cano...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/canon-cat.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Marcin Wichary
If you haven't pulled too hard on the disk, it is a good chance it can be repaired.
If in your frustration you yanked the disk out, you will have destroyed the head assembly.
The disk drives are almost impossible to find but there are options.
As for the screw, I wish you good luck. Once open, I can describe how to remove the
drive and fix it.
Dwight
From: cano...@googlegroups.com <cano...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Marcin Wichary <mwic...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 2:53:20 PM
To: cano...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Canon Cat] New Cat repairs.
Hi! New group member and new Cat owner here.
I recently got my own Cat. I cleaned it up and restored (documented here on Twitter), but the floppy drive swallowed my disk and won’t spit it out if I press the button. The floppy also started making a noise.
Upon trying to open the case, I noticed one of the screws is stripped. As I’m waiting for my anti-stripped-screw tools to arrive, any advice on dealing with an opened Cat particularly the CRT (I don’t intend to do anything with it, but I’m scared of it – I have zero experience) and the floppy drive itself?
Thank you in advance!
Marcin
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Canon Cat" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to canon-cat+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to cano...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/canon-cat.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Canon Cat" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to canon-cat+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
David Young
> Dwight, thanks for a prompt response! I didn’t yank the disk out at all –
> just tried in vain to press the eject button.
>
> Would you mind explaining removing the drive now? With luck, I might open
> it tomorrow morning already. Thank you so much in advance!
My drive has not broken, but I would like to repair it before it does,
so I would also be grateful for any instructions you can provide.
Dave
--
David Young
dyo...@pobox.com Urbana, IL (217) 721-9981
Santo Nucifora
Jonathan Gevaryahu
I think the correct solution is to cnc-mill a replacement piece out of aluminum or steel, or just make it yourself using a drill press etc.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to canon-cat+...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to cano...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/canon-cat.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
-- Jonathan Gevaryahu jgeva...@gmail.com jgeva...@hotmail.com
dwight
The part is intended to work like a spring, holding the head guide rod in place. It is made of what looks like nylon. This is not a particularly good material when put under stress. As it ages, it become more brittle. In this case, if it hasn't failed, it is just luck.
As for how to repair. We had some pictures posted some time back but goole in is wisdom determined that these were no longer needed.
Still, on opening the disk drive, the location of the failure will be obvious. There is a tab at the end of the guide rod. Every disk that I've looked at, one can see a fracture across this tab, even on those that have not yet failed.
I repaired mine with a plastic tab of a different type of material ( I'm not sure what it was but flexing it showed no sign of cracking or failing.
One can of course glue the rail down with some JB Weld ( a metal filled type of gray epoxy found at US hardware and auto parts stores ). One does have to be careful that it doesn't block the normal full travel of the head assembly.
I think Jack has picture of the drive apart. I may have these someplace but it was a few years ago. I was thinking we might put some of these on another computer forum that can keep such photos. Maybe the VCF forum would be good as it is used by many and easily searched, using google search ( note that using the forum search with words of less or equal to 3 letters fails. CAT, KIM, even VCF will return no results so use the google search ).
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2017 9:03:27 AM
To: cano...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Canon Cat] New Cat repairs.
dwight
I should note that even though the tab was held in place with a screw, that was only there to hold it long enough for a pin that went through the frame to be staked. In other words, it was not intended to be removed.
The gluing method is as valid as any.
Dwight
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2017 11:55:13 AM
Charles Springer
-- Jonathan Gevaryahu jgeva...@gmail.com jgeva...@hotmail.com
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Canon Cat" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to canon-cat+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to cano...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/canon-cat.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
dwight
The part that fail is not truly removable. It is staked to the frame. I don't believe it has to be made exactly the same.
The piece I made is just a flat piece in a tear drop shape. I drilled a small hole and used the screw that was there originally. I did not replicate the small post that went through the frame and was staked from the other side. The flat tear drop shaped part could be easily created on a 3D but the small pin going through the frame would be tough as I recall it was only about .03 to .05 inches in diameter someplace. With the screw holding it down, I felt the pin was redundant.
It is possible for the screw to come loose and allow the piece to rotate but I don't think that is a likely problem.
If one worried about this, I'd think it would be better to dill a hole where the post went through and glue a pin to the tear drop piece. Then the screw would have to be really loose to cause any issue.
The only issue with 3D printing is the ability of the plastic to not creep or fracture over time like the original piece.
Looking back at what could be done, I'd be happier with the JB Weld.
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2017 1:28:04 PM
Marcin Wichary
Marcin Wichary
Marcin Wichary
dwight
As I recall, You need to do some more disassembly. The tray assembly that holds the disk needs to be removed. I seem to recall you need to remove the ejector assembly. To do that you first need to release the long spring. Then you should be able to remove the black screw holding things together.
The frame should then be able to slide backward and released at the 4 post, 2 on each side. It will lift straight up once it slides back.
Don't force anything. The thin plastic piece that is latched under the hook at the back may need to be released as well. I think it releases by rotating the finger and lifting it. It would have a pin through the tray assembly.
You can see the failed part. Right where the thin black piece is latched, the finger sticking towards the back is right over the silver screw that would be holding the tension. The rod would be held by the missing tab piece that broke off, right at the screw. You might look for the small missing piece of white plastic to be able to reconstruct things.
Once the tray is out of the way, you should be able to see how the guide rod on the head assembly sits along the side,
Before getting too carried away with the disassembly, you might want to inspect the head, The pressure pad is just held down with a spring, you can lift it enough to inspect the head. It is on a floating spring mount. It should sit flat and straight.
It has been a long time so work carefully and don't force anything. I do recall that when done right, it almost fell apart.
Dwight
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2017 3:52:17 PM
dwight
I should note that I think the head cable can be removed at the PC board, by pulling it from the connector.
Look carefully first as the may be a release for it but it may just pull out.
Dwight
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2017 4:24:56 PM
Marcin Wichary
dwight
Hi
I'm not sure what RS232 connection you'll need. I you need to use a light box for that. In the setup menu you tell it that the serial is the printer port.
You might post a picture with the pressure pad out of the way so others can see the damage.
I don't know of anyone that is skilled in attaching a read/write head and aligning it.
Too bad, people insist on removing the disk by force. Most of these could be saved with just a little patience.
Dwight
dwight
There is a way to use the serial port to transfer the text to another CAT through the serial but I couldn't even guess the protocol.
Dwight
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2017 4:39:39 PM
Charles Springer
Charles Springer
Charles Springer
David Ryskalczyk
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to canon-cat+...@googlegroups.com.
Mark Wills
dwight
As I mentioned before, these are file based emulators. If you don't have specific code to handle your particular format, these won't work. The Cat's disk are not file based.
Have you written code for the STM32 with a On-The-Go USB interface?
I've started looking into these but it will tak a lot more work.
Dwight
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2017 9:01:36 AM
To: Canon Cat
Subject: [Canon Cat] Re: New Cat repairs.
David Ryskalczyk
Jonathan Gevaryahu
(I'm actually rather curious what that microcontroller actually does, since on most floppy drives I've seen there is a fixed ASIC used rather than a microcontroller...)
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Canon Cat" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to canon-cat+...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to cano...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/canon-cat.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
-- Jonathan Gevaryahu jgeva...@gmail.com jgeva...@hotmail.com
dwight
This data from the disk is stored as files on the USB memory. It assumes that there is a file structure on the floppy.
Of course, the code could be modified. It needs to treat the entire floppy as a single file. I'm not saying it is impossible just that it is not an off the shelf software. A lot of effort would be needed.
I'd love to see it done.
I personally have another machine that I'd like to use one of these for. It is not currently supported by HxC and I doubt it ever would be.
I have bought one of the Gotek units.
Dwight
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2017 9:34:39 AM
To: cano...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Canon Cat] Re: New Cat repairs.
dwight
I never looked carefully at the controller board to notice that it was a uC there.
Dwight
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2017 10:30:12 AM
Jonathan Gevaryahu
dwight
I take it back, the HFE format is a 512 byte bit image of the disk.
I only see DD formats in the HFE document, though.
I think we need to run some experiments to see what happens.
Dwight
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2017 9:01:36 AM
To: Canon Cat
Subject: [Canon Cat] Re: New Cat repairs.