Thesheep keep on growing their wool for me! Unfortunately, I have a backlog at the mill that washes, cards and spins my wool into yarn for me. I currently have two batches at themill, medium (worsted) weight light gray and medium (worsted) weight slate gray. The mill estimates that my yarn will be done in the spring of 2025. If you send me a message with your email address I will let you know as soon as my new yarn is here!
My yarn is available in a medium (worsted) weight and fingering weight. All of my yarn is 100% wool, and all of the wool is from my own sheep. The color of the yarn is the naturalcolor of the sheep. All of my yarn is sold in 50 gram skeins and the price is $9.00 per skein.
The fingering yarn is also two-ply and 50 grams equals approximately 235 yards. I knit nine stitches per inch with this yarn using #1 needles. Currently only Slate Gray is available infingering weight.
The lot number is the year the sheep was sheared. I sell yarn by color, but if you are trying to match a specific lot number please put the lot number you want in the comment area of yourorder, or send me an e-mail to ask if I have any skeins of a specific lot in stock. Once a lot is sold out it is trulysold out. Your hair changes a bit each year, and so does the sheep's!
Hey Quiltketeers, and welcome to Week 4 of the Starling quilt sew along! Is it me or is this sew along flying by? Maybe I've just got aeronautics on the brain because my husband made me watch the new Top Gun movie with him last night and this week we're sewing flying geese! Which, now that I think about it, Goose is a character in Top Gun...woah. It's all connected!!
If you don't know what I'm talking about, that's OK. It's not even a little bit relevant to our Week 4 assignment. What is relevant is page 5 of your Starling pattern. Use that as a reference when making your flying geese. There is also a hyper link to a flying geese tutorial on that page. I've embedded that same video below.
OH! Don't forget to mark your calendars for Tuesday, May 2 @ 2pm Central because I'm going LIVE on Instagram to discuss block assembly. I cover most everything in the videos below, but it will still be nice to catch up. Save your questions for then or pop them in the comments and I'll be sure to cover them.
However, if you are following along in real time, don't forget to post your progress on Instagram using #StarlingQuiltSA so you can be entered to win prizes each and every month. Skip to the bottom of this post for the sponsor and prize this week.
Everything you need to know about sewing and trimming flying can be found in the video below. If you missed the pressing video from last week and need a refresher on using a tailor's clapper, I suggest you fly back to Week 3 and check it out.
If you are using a Layer Cake and following the instructions from this blog post variation, this video below will be more applicable. It's almost exactly the same as the video above, except the measurements for the no-waste flying geese are different.
On the top of page four of the Starling pattern is a chart listing out the number of square-in-square units and flying geese units you need for each quilt size. I'm making the throw size, so I need 56 geese that measure 9 1/4" x 4 7/8" once they are trimmed.
Side note: 9 1/4" x 4 7/8" sounds weirder than it is. I promise two things: once you get the hang of trimming flying geese to these dimensions they won't feel weird anymore and also the math really does work out and in the end your blocks will fit together beautifully.
I've got a lot of e 5 1/2" squares and I really don't want to draw a diagonal guideline on each one. What I'm going to do instead is take my pile of 5 1/2" squares over to my ironing board and iron a crisp diagonal crease in them. With a hot iron, I should be able to stack at least four on top of each other and get them creased and ready for sewing in a couple minutes.
One thing I recommend if you choose to crease your squares, is to turn off the light on your sewing machine. This will seem counter intuitive, but the absence of such a harsh little light should help you see the crease better.
In this four-at-a-time flying geese method we sew two long seams and then four shorter seams. I suggest pinning, at least at first, during those first passes through your machine. Once you get to the next step (Fig. 15 in the pattern) pinning is more optional based on your sewing accuracy. (I probably won't pin then.)
This is just a fun little hack if you want to save a bit of time. If you're new and unsure about this process, no need to do this. However, if you do choose to stack your units before slicing, line up the seams so you don't accidentally slice through one of them.
Just like I mention in the video, preparing your ruler with some tape and a mark at the goose's beak will make your trimming a lot easier. If you don't want to use a sharpie on your ruler, a dry erase marker will work too.
I went ahead of week four and made my flying geese. But I pressed my seams toward the darker color like Suzy suggested with the squares in week three. Now realizing I should have waited. What I have is one seam pressed in and one out. Will I be ok or should I rip them apart and redo?
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