cycle to Anglesey abbey
Firefly
summer holiday. I am a very novice cyclist who hasn't gone further than
Granchester, but a blog about Cambridge cycle routes recommended this
one as being quite easy for beginners. It says take the NC51 cycle path
route to Bottisham, from along the path on Misummer Common along the river.
I looked on the sustrans website for the NC51 map, and most of it is
off-road, which is good. But there is an on-road section around the big
roundabout with the A14 and the road to Stow-cum-Quy; it also looks like
it crosses the main road a couple of times. The first looks like it
might be an underpass; the second looks like a road crossing. Does
anyone know what the road along this section is like, and how the
crossing are? I have also been told by someone that they tried to cycle
and ran into a stile somewhere.
The route then continues through Bottisham, and there is another on-road
section through the village, and along Lode road, before an off-road
section down to Anglesey Abbey. I imagine through the village is fairly
quiet, but what about the Lode road section? Is that
quiet/narrow/windy? That route is recommended over the road through
Stow-cum-Quy, which is also on-road, and somewhat shorter, so I'm
guessing that the Lode road must have some advantages. I've been driven
there and I'm fairly sure we went the Stow-cum-Quy way, and the road was
quite narrow/busy in places and I'd not want to cycle there until I was
more experienced.
thanks.
Mike Causer
Firefly <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> I was thinking of cycling to Anglesey Abbey one of the days in the
> summer holiday. I am a very novice cyclist who hasn't gone further than
> Granchester, but a blog about Cambridge cycle routes recommended this
> one as being quite easy for beginners. It says take the NC51 cycle path
> route to Bottisham, from along the path on Misummer Common along the river.
>
> I looked on the sustrans website for the NC51 map, and most of it is
> off-road, which is good. But there is an on-road section around the big
> roundabout with the A14 and the road to Stow-cum-Quy; it also looks like
> it crosses the main road a couple of times. The first looks like it
> might be an underpass; the second looks like a road crossing. Does
> anyone know what the road along this section is like, and how the
> crossing are? I have also been told by someone that they tried to cycle
> and ran into a stile somewhere.
There are no stiles, nor gates, nor even cattle grids after the P&R.
The entire section is off-road, although there are a couple of busy
roads that have to be crossed. The A14 crossing is via an under-pass,
just watch out for loose gravel on the north side of the tunnel. The
B1102 crossing has push-button controlled lights to get across it.
They are rather slow to act, but will eventually stop the cars.
> The route then continues through Bottisham, and there is another on-road
> section through the village, and along Lode road, before an off-road
> section down to Anglesey Abbey. I imagine through the village is fairly
> quiet, but what about the Lode road section? Is that
> quiet/narrow/windy?
It's reasonably quiet, not too narrow and pretty straight. There is a
cycle track to the side of the road, but it is being upgraded this
summer (while the schools are on holiday) and may not be usable. The
road is fine though. Just watch out for cars parking for/leaving the
shops in the centre of Bottisham.
> That route is recommended over the road through
> Stow-cum-Quy, which is also on-road, and somewhat shorter, so I'm
> guessing that the Lode road must have some advantages.
It has a lot less motorised traffic. You will need to cross the B1102
once again to reach the cycle track on its north side to get into
Anglesey Abbey, but that too is being upgraded to a light-controlled
crossing this summer.
Once you've reached Anglesey Abbey, and are happy to do so, a lot of new
places to go open up. The area to the north of A.A. has a lot of
off-road tracks that can, if you can find the non-muddy ones, lead back
to the River Cam and so back to Cambridge. From A.A. going north there
are good routes as far as Ely. Which has a train service back to
Cambridge if you don't fancy cycling the whole round trip.
Mike
Paul Oldham
> I was thinking of cycling to Anglesey Abbey one of the days in the
> summer holiday. I am a very novice cyclist who hasn't gone further than
> Granchester, but a blog about Cambridge cycle routes recommended this
> one as being quite easy for beginners. It says take the NC51 cycle path
> route to Bottisham, from along the path on Misummer Common along the river.
>
> I looked on the sustrans website for the NC51 map, and most of it is
> off-road, which is good. But there is an on-road section around the big
> roundabout with the A14 and the road to Stow-cum-Quy; it also looks like
> it crosses the main road a couple of times. The first looks like it
> might be an underpass; the second looks like a road crossing. Does
> anyone know what the road along this section is like, and how the
> crossing are? I have also been told by someone that they tried to cycle
> and ran into a stile somewhere.
The NCN51 to Stow cum Quy is fine. It's pretty much all off road out to
the A14, other than a short section where you cross Ditton Lane and then
go down a residential street to pick up the path out to the back of the
Newmarket Road P&R site.
You cross the A14 through an underpass. Thereafter, coming off NCN51,
the B1102 through Stow cum Quy is 40mph with traffic calming and seems
safe enough but thereafter it's derestricted to Lode. You might want to
consider turning left in Stow cum Quy up Station Road to pick up the
bridleway shortly after you cross Quy Water. That takes you up to the
old railway line which appears to be a permissive bridleway eastbound
(*beware* this isn't true westbound) and that takes you all the way to
Lode and hence into Anglesey Abbey.
> The route then continues through Bottisham, and there is another on-road
> section through the village, and along Lode road, before an off-road
> section down to Anglesey Abbey. I imagine through the village is fairly
> quiet, but what about the Lode road section? Is that
> quiet/narrow/windy? That route is recommended over the road through
> Stow-cum-Quy, which is also on-road, and somewhat shorter, so I'm
> guessing that the Lode road must have some advantages. I've been driven
> there and I'm fairly sure we went the Stow-cum-Quy way, and the road was
> quite narrow/busy in places and I'd not want to cycle there until I was
> more experienced.
Given the choice between the A1303 and the B1102 and my route thereafter
I'd choose the latter every time. They don't hang around on the A1303.
Another route you might consider (perhaps combine the two to make a
circuit) is to take the Haling Way along the river to Baits Bite lock,
cross over there and take the footpath to Horningsea Road (don't be
tempted to use the track past Biggin Abbey, they don't like it, but
cycling on the footpath is tolerated), turn left and cycle along the
(new) off road cycle path and then through Horningsea. On the other side
of the village, just outside the 30 limit, there's a big lay by. From
there you can follow the bridleway (also the Harcamlow Way at that
point) along past Allicky Farm to pick up the railway line and the same
permissive bridleway I describe above.
That's the route I use when I'm cycling to Bottisham to go swimming.
--
Paul Oldham ----------> http://the-hug.org/paul
Milton villager ------> http://www.milton.org.uk/
and FAQ wiki owner ---> http://cam.misc.org.uk
"Committee: A body that keeps minutes and wastes hours"
Ben C
> I was thinking of cycling to Anglesey Abbey one of the days in the
> summer holiday. I am a very novice cyclist who hasn't gone further than
> Granchester, but a blog about Cambridge cycle routes recommended this
> one as being quite easy for beginners. It says take the NC51 cycle path
> route to Bottisham, from along the path on Misummer Common along the river.
>
> I looked on the sustrans website for the NC51 map, and most of it is
> off-road, which is good. But there is an on-road section around the big
> roundabout with the A14 and the road to Stow-cum-Quy; it also looks like
> it crosses the main road a couple of times. The first looks like it
> might be an underpass
Yes it is an underpass.
> ; the second looks like a road crossing.
If you mean the right turn in Stow-cum-Quy, you get little bicycle
traffic lights and things which take you across a sort of village green
and put you onto a cycle lane on the pavement which goes about as far as
the turn to Bottisham.
That's why NCN51 goes that way even though the road that goes straight
to Lode from Quy is a quieter road if you're actually going to ride on
the road.
> Does anyone know what the road along this section is like, and how the
> crossing are?
It's all very safe and friendly. I often go under the underpass and
usually ride up the road towards Lode, but I have tried the cycle lane
the other side and it's a pretty good one.
> I have also been told by someone that they tried to cycle
> and ran into a stile somewhere.
They must have ended up on a footpath by mistake.
> The route then continues through Bottisham, and there is another
> on-road section through the village, and along Lode road, before an
> off-road section down to Anglesey Abbey. I imagine through the
> village is fairly quiet, but what about the Lode road section? Is
> that quiet/narrow/windy?
It's a fairly quiet straight little road. As for windy you better check
the local weather forecast :)
> That route is recommended over the road through Stow-cum-Quy, which is
> also on-road, and somewhat shorter, so I'm guessing that the Lode road
> must have some advantages. I've been driven there and I'm fairly sure
> we went the Stow-cum-Quy way, and the road was quite narrow/busy in
> places and I'd not want to cycle there until I was more experienced.
It is fairly fast traffic but not too bad and only a short section. I
think you'll be fine.
Firefly
> There are no stiles, nor gates, nor even cattle grids after the P&R.
> The entire section is off-road, although there are a couple of busy
> roads that have to be crossed. The A14 crossing is via an under-pass,
> just watch out for loose gravel on the north side of the tunnel. The
> B1102 crossing has push-button controlled lights to get across it.
> They are rather slow to act, but will eventually stop the cars.
>
Thank you, that's what I was hoping to hear. The map shows it as a
purple section from the underpass to where the second crossing is, which
supposedly means 'on-road', but it sounds like it is some kind of
private road/track at this point, which should be fine.
>
>> The route then continues through Bottisham, and there is another on-road
> It has a lot less motorised traffic. You will need to cross the B1102
> once again to reach the cycle track on its north side to get into
> Anglesey Abbey, but that too is being upgraded to a light-controlled
> crossing this summer.
Ah yes I wondered about that, too, as the map looked like the cycle path
was on the north side, and I wasn't sure whether that was just the map,
or whether there was actually one on both sides, and somewhere along
there'd be a pedestrian crossing to actually get into A.A.
>
>
> Once you've reached Anglesey Abbey, and are happy to do so, a lot of new
> places to go open up. The area to the north of A.A. has a lot of
> off-road tracks that can, if you can find the non-muddy ones, lead back
> to the River Cam and so back to Cambridge. From A.A. going north there
> are good routes as far as Ely. Which has a train service back to
> Cambridge if you don't fancy cycling the whole round trip.
>
thanks, that was going to be one of my next questions!
Firefly
> You cross the A14 through an underpass. Thereafter, coming off NCN51,
> the B1102 through Stow cum Quy is 40mph with traffic calming and seems
> safe enough but thereafter it's derestricted to Lode. You might want to
> consider turning left in Stow cum Quy up Station Road to pick up the
> bridleway shortly after you cross Quy Water. That takes you up to the
> old railway line which appears to be a permissive bridleway eastbound
> (*beware* this isn't true westbound) and that takes you all the way to
> Lode and hence into Anglesey Abbey.
Perhaps I will try that as an alternative route.
>
> Given the choice between the A1303 and the B1102 and my route thereafter
> I'd choose the latter every time. They don't hang around on the A1303.
Is the A1303 the Lode road way then? So better to go via Quy than the
way the map shows, which is what seems a rather roundabout way, all the
way to Bottisham, then up Lode Road and back a bit - I assumed that
there was a particular reason for doing that, but it might have been
because the path was supposed to go to Bottisham as its destination and
the A.A. bit was just an add-on. However, when I've been in a car on
the road from the A14 through Quy to Angelsey Abbey, and from what I
remember, it looked quite fast and narrow in lots of places to me, and
I'm not sure I'd be happy cycling there yet. If the A1303 is worse,
that doesn't sound good!
>
> Another route you might consider (perhaps combine the two to make a
> circuit) is to take the Haling Way along the river to Baits Bite lock,
> cross over there and take the footpath to Horningsea Road (don't be
> tempted to use the track past Biggin Abbey, they don't like it, but
> cycling on the footpath is tolerated), turn left and cycle along the
> (new) off road cycle path and then through Horningsea. On the other side
> of the village, just outside the 30 limit, there's a big lay by. From
> there you can follow the bridleway (also the Harcamlow Way at that
> point) along past Allicky Farm to pick up the railway line and the same
> permissive bridleway I describe above.
Thanks, I'll have to get a map and have a look. Not having been out of
Cambridge much apart from the train, I've not yet learned where all
these places are and what paths you can cycle on or not. What do you do
instead of the bridleway on the way back?
Alan Braggins
>Mike Causer wrote:
>
>> There are no stiles, nor gates, nor even cattle grids after the P&R.
>> The entire section is off-road, although there are a couple of busy
>> roads that have to be crossed. The A14 crossing is via an under-pass,
>> just watch out for loose gravel on the north side of the tunnel. The
>> B1102 crossing has push-button controlled lights to get across it.
>> They are rather slow to act, but will eventually stop the cars.
>
>Thank you, that's what I was hoping to hear. The map shows it as a
>purple section from the underpass to where the second crossing is, which
>supposedly means 'on-road', but it sounds like it is some kind of
>private road/track at this point, which should be fine.
It's the road to Quy Mill Hotel, so very little traffic.
Paul Oldham
> Paul Oldham wrote:
>
>> Given the choice between the A1303 and the B1102 and my route thereafter
>> I'd choose the latter every time. They don't hang around on the A1303.
>
> Is the A1303 the Lode road way then?
No, the A1303 is the road to Newmarket. Although actually, if I'm
reading the OS mapping right, I think it's an off road path, so it's
probably a better option than I implied. And the road from Bottisham to
Lode (which I have cycled) is pretty quiet and in any case has an off
road cycle path from within the 30 limit up to the B1102 crossroads.
That is a longer way around mind you.
> Thanks, I'll have to get a map and have a look. Not having been out of
> Cambridge much apart from the train, I've not yet learned where all
> these places are and what paths you can cycle on or not.
Yup. Get the local 1:25K OS map. Or visit http://maps.the-hug.net if you
can make do with 1:50K mapping.
> What do you do instead of the bridleway on the way back?
I go there and back the same way as for me it's just the shortest way
from A to B (from Milton, YMMV).
--
Paul Oldham ----------> http://the-hug.org/paul
Milton villager ------> http://www.milton.org.uk/
and FAQ wiki owner ---> http://cam.misc.org.uk
"A verbal contract is as binding as the tape it's recorded on"
Firefly
>
>> What do you do instead of the bridleway on the way back?
>
> I go there and back the same way as for me it's just the shortest way
> from A to B (from Milton, YMMV).
>
But I thought you said the bridleway was open to cyclists only in one
direction?
Mike Causer
Paul Oldham <pa...@the-hug.org> wrote:
> You cross the A14 through an underpass. Thereafter, coming off NCN51,
> the B1102 through Stow cum Quy is 40mph with traffic calming and seems
> safe enough but thereafter it's derestricted to Lode. You might want to
> consider turning left in Stow cum Quy up Station Road to pick up the
> bridleway shortly after you cross Quy Water. That takes you up to the
> old railway line which appears to be a permissive bridleway eastbound
> (*beware* this isn't true westbound) and that takes you all the way to
> Lode and hence into Anglesey Abbey.
Sadly it is only premissive bridleway for the section that's across N.T.
land, not the whole way. In addition from Quy Station to Lode there are
3 gates with stiles to get past. That's not to say that people don't
cycle along it, I'm one...
> Given the choice between the A1303 and the B1102 and my route thereafter
> I'd choose the latter every time. They don't hang around on the A1303.
I find traffic speeds very similar, and the volume is close too: 8,000
per day on the B1102 and 8,700 on the A1303 (CCoC traffic monitoring
report 2009). NCN51/11 is alongside the A1302 here, and generally wide
enough, although there are sections that get badly overgrown. In
particular watch out for brambles going into Bottisham. For a novice I
definitely recommend this way rather than the B1102.
> Another route you might consider (perhaps combine the two to make a
> circuit) is to take the Haling Way along the river to Baits Bite lock,
> cross over there and take the footpath to Horningsea Road (don't be
> tempted to use the track past Biggin Abbey, they don't like it, but
> cycling on the footpath is tolerated), turn left and cycle along the
> (new) off road cycle path and then through Horningsea. On the other side
> of the village, just outside the 30 limit, there's a big lay by. From
> there you can follow the bridleway (also the Harcamlow Way at that
> point) along past Allicky Farm to pick up the railway line and the same
> permissive bridleway I describe above.
This is a route I use quite a lot too, but the footpath from Baits Bite
to the Horningsea road has been "improved" recently by having loose
gravel put down, and is hopeless on narrow tyres now.
Mike
Paul Oldham
It is. You need to look on a map to see what I'm talking about. Here's
the route I take - http://maps.the-hug.net/?gpx=lock_to_lode.gpx
And to answer you question as you can see there's a proper bridleway
which runs from Station Road in Quy to the layby north of Horningsea. It
crosses the old railway line, which appears to be (either implicitly or
explicitly) a permissive bridleway from the point where it crosses
eastwards. Hence it's a route to Lode from either Quy or Horningsea (the
latter being the one shown in the link above).
However west of that point the old railway line is a bit of a problem.
In particular the section from Station Road towards the byway between
Honey Hill and Snout Corner was signs on it explicitly denying public
access. Having said that I'd walked it several times and people do cycle
it, but if you go that way then be prepared to be shouted at.
--
Paul Oldham ----------> http://the-hug.org/paul
Milton villager ------> http://www.milton.org.uk/
and FAQ wiki owner ---> http://cam.misc.org.uk
"Drunk is feeling sophisticated when you can't say it"
Paul Oldham
> Sadly it is only premissive bridleway for the section that's across N.T.
> land, not the whole way. In addition from Quy Station to Lode there are
> 3 gates with stiles to get past.
Three? Only two I remember and not high stiles though: metal bars set at
1ft max. But that's only as far as the bridleway so perhaps you're
talking about after that?
>> Another route you might consider (perhaps combine the two to make a
>> circuit) is to take the Haling Way along the river to Baits Bite lock,
>> cross over there and take the footpath to Horningsea Road (don't be
>> tempted to use the track past Biggin Abbey, they don't like it, but
>> cycling on the footpath is tolerated), turn left and cycle along the
>> (new) off road cycle path and then through Horningsea. On the other side
>> of the village, just outside the 30 limit, there's a big lay by. From
>> there you can follow the bridleway (also the Harcamlow Way at that
>> point) along past Allicky Farm to pick up the railway line and the same
>> permissive bridleway I describe above.
>
> This is a route I use quite a lot too, but the footpath from Baits Bite
> to the Horningsea road has been "improved" recently by having loose
> gravel put down, and is hopeless on narrow tyres now.
Ah yes, I've experienced that. The hogging doesn't help does it. But you
can weave past most of it and with my road (not racing) tyres I still
find it acceptable. It'll be better when it's settled down a bit though.
--
Paul Oldham ----------> http://the-hug.org/paul
Milton villager ------> http://www.milton.org.uk/
and FAQ wiki owner ---> http://cam.misc.org.uk
"Usenet: it's what killfiles were invented for"
Mike Causer
Paul Oldham <pa...@the-hug.org> wrote:
> Mike Causer wrote:
>
> > Sadly it is only premissive bridleway for the section that's across N.T.
> > land, not the whole way. In addition from Quy Station to Lode there are
> > 3 gates with stiles to get past.
>
> Three? Only two I remember and not high stiles though: metal bars set at
> 1ft max. But that's only as far as the bridleway so perhaps you're
> talking about after that?
They're at TL519620, TL525625 and TL530629, and as you say the last two
have low-level stiles. Still require a dismount though.
> Ah yes, I've experienced that. The hogging doesn't help does it. But you
> can weave past most of it and with my road (not racing) tyres I still
> find it acceptable. It'll be better when it's settled down a bit though.
Sooner the better.
Mike
Firefly
> Firefly wrote:
>
>> Paul Oldham wrote:
>>
>>>> What do you do instead of the bridleway on the way back?
>>> I go there and back the same way as for me it's just the shortest way
>>> from A to B (from Milton, YMMV).
>>
>> But I thought you said the bridleway was open to cyclists only in one
>> direction?
>
> It is. You need to look on a map to see what I'm talking about. Here's
> the route I take - http://maps.the-hug.net/?gpx=lock_to_lode.gpx
>
slightly better idea of where I'm going, to see about alternative routes
next time.
Firefly
afternoon.
It is a good level for a beginner - a significant jump up from, say,
Grantchester, but still quite do-able, even for someone who has not had
a bike out in almost a year.
I'm knackered now, but that's probably as much the heat/mugginess as
anything (I will have been easily identifiable on the path as the one
with the bright, bright red, sweaty face, even though the rest of me is
fine!). I will be sore tomorrow, I expect, but it was a decent distance
and length of time to feel like I actually got somewhere, unlike the
start and stopness of cycling in the city. The website estimate was
just about right in terms of time, about an hour from the city centre -
I thought it might take quite a bit longer than that for someone as slow
as me, but it must have beginners in mind.
It was a pretty, enjoyable cycle as far as the park and ride, only a
tiny bit not on a path and all very easy. After the park and ride, it's
all still on the path, or the private road after the underpass, and then
back on the path all the way to Bottisham. Quite dull, but easy enough.
Through Bottisham and up Lode road, it is apparently a shared
cycle/pedestrian path, so I used that for part of it, but it was quiet
enough (perhaps being a Sunday) that the road was fine too. It was easy
enough to find my way without a map, just from the NC route signposts;
only in Bottisham do you need to go off it and follow the Lode road,
where the NC 51 path goes off a different direction but as I'd seen that
on the map before, I knew where to go even though I'd not realised it
was not still the NC 51 route. It did feel significantly longer to go
via Bottisham, but the other road back to Quy looked quite fast and
narrow in places and there didn't seem to be a path, so probably worth
going the long way round for now.
Things I learned:
- noticeably harder on the way back, with an oncoming wind, perhaps a
slight incline up in several places, tired legs, and full of cake.
- very glad I had sunglasses with me even when it was cloudy, as lots of
bugs.
- few places with broken bottles, so I should probably get a puncture
kit and remind myself how to use it
- think my bike is perhaps a little too big in frame size, or at least
needs a little adjusting. I bought it second hand and had it checked at
a bike shop and they seemed to think it was the right size for me. It's
a women's bike, I'm quite short with short legs; I can just touch the
ground if I tip slightly sideways. But when I tried to stop and put a
foot down as I waited for someone to come round a corner, and the path
was on a little bit of an incline, it was quite difficult. And yet I
still kept shifting a bit so that I was trying to sit slightly higher
and further back. So might need a smaller frame or a higher seat or to
adjust the angle somehow (it's a padded - women's - saddle, fitted by
the shop). And perhaps handlebars need to be up too, as I felt like I
was hunching my shoulders up a lot, and putting a lot of pressure on my
hands - the only bits of me that hurt whilst I was doing it (as opposed
to now!) were my hands, the stretch between my thumb and first finger. I
think I was gripping quite tightly, because I was bent over.
- lots of friendly cyclists on the way
I liked it because it was all on the path, and I knew where to go - the
signs were all very clear, no doubt about which paths I was allowed on
or not, all very straightforward for someone who doesn't know the
area/landmarks etc well. I don't think I'll be going too much further
than that for a little while, but I might try variations, and possibly
something similar distance, and similar difficulty (i.e. mostly
off-road!) and as easy to follow. Tea-room, always good.
anyway, thanks for the advice, glad that I attempted it.
Mike Causer
Firefly <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Success! Thanks for all the advice. I made it there and back this
> afternoon.
Well done!
> - noticeably harder on the way back, with an oncoming wind, perhaps a
> slight incline up in several places, tired legs, and full of cake.
Had you taken wateer with you? Even with a stop at Anglesey Abbey and a
cup of tea you'd probably have been getting dehydrated without a water
bottle too.
> - few places with broken bottles, so I should probably get a puncture
> kit and remind myself how to use it
Absolutely. Don't forget that the off-road stuff we've been talking
about has thorns too. I take puncture kit, pump and pocket-tool on any
ride I would not want to walk home from.
> - think my bike is perhaps a little too big in frame size, or at least
> needs a little adjusting. I bought it second hand and had it checked at
> a bike shop and they seemed to think it was the right size for me. It's
> a women's bike, I'm quite short with short legs; I can just touch the
> ground if I tip slightly sideways. But when I tried to stop and put a
> foot down as I waited for someone to come round a corner, and the path
> was on a little bit of an incline, it was quite difficult.
With the saddle at the best height for your knees it's impossible to
touch the ground while still on the saddle, so learning to slip forward
off it at the last moment of stopping is necessary.
> And yet I
> still kept shifting a bit so that I was trying to sit slightly higher
> and further back. So might need a smaller frame or a higher seat or to
> adjust the angle somehow (it's a padded - women's - saddle, fitted by
> the shop).
The right height for a saddle is with you leg only slightly bent when
the pedal is at its furthest stretch. A quick way to get this is to
raise (or lower) the saddle until you can /just/ touch the pedal with
your heel when the leg is straight.
As you go further you may find that the current saddle is too soft.
Serious long-distance cyclists haves saddle you probably would believe
are rock-hard. The idea is to have your weight support by the pelvic
bones, but a soft saddle lets the bones sink in and puts more of the
weight on fleshy parts. The saddle should be very close to
horizontal, otherwise there will be pressure on the wrong places.
> And perhaps handlebars need to be up too, as I felt like I
> was hunching my shoulders up a lot, and putting a lot of pressure on my
> hands - the only bits of me that hurt whilst I was doing it (as opposed
> to now!) were my hands, the stretch between my thumb and first finger. I
> think I was gripping quite tightly, because I was bent over.
Many people wear padded gloves, which help. As well as raising the bars
the cycle shop can supply a shorter stem to bring the bars nearer and
make the torso more upright.
Mike
Firefly
> On Sun, 25 Jul 2010 16:06:00 +0100
> Had you taken wateer with you? Even with a stop at Anglesey Abbey and a
> cup of tea you'd probably have been getting dehydrated without a water
> bottle too.
>
yes, lots.
>
>> - few places with broken bottles, so I should probably get a puncture
>> kit and remind myself how to use it
>
> Absolutely. Don't forget that the off-road stuff we've been talking
> about has thorns too. I take puncture kit, pump and pocket-tool on any
> ride I would not want to walk home from.
I should probably practise; not sure I remember how to get the tyre off
and on as I've only ever been shown once, but I'll watch one of the
online guides. I remember that it was quite hard to get it back on. I do
have a pump I could take.
>
> The right height for a saddle is with you leg only slightly bent when
> the pedal is at its furthest stretch. A quick way to get this is to
> raise (or lower) the saddle until you can /just/ touch the pedal with
> your heel when the leg is straight.
The very, very tips of my toes are touching or nearly touching when I'm
sitting. I think I'd worry about stopping if they didn't, as already
when I tried to stop on a slightly sloped path, it seemed a long way
down and a lot of bike to topple on me. But I think I probably don't
have the sliding forward off the saddle technique. Might be better to
learn that first and then raise the seat a bit more, since my leg is
still slightly bent even if my heel is on the pedal at its further
point. So it sounds like I should have the seat higher, but need to get
better at stopping and sliding off as well.
> As you go further you may find that the current saddle is too soft.
> Serious long-distance cyclists haves saddle you probably would believe
> are rock-hard. The idea is to have your weight support by the pelvic
> bones, but a soft saddle lets the bones sink in and puts more of the
> weight on fleshy parts. The saddle should be very close to
> horizontal, otherwise there will be pressure on the wrong places.
>
interesting, that is not what I'd have expected, but I can see it makes
sense. I'm expecting some soreness tomorrow because I could feel it
even as I was coming back, so definitely some new muscles found today,
but I'd probably get used to it if I did it reasonably regularly. Not
sure once a week or fortnight will be enough not to just cause soreness
each time, though!
>> And perhaps handlebars need to be up too, as I felt like I
>> was hunching my shoulders up a lot, and putting a lot of pressure on my
>> hands - the only bits of me that hurt whilst I was doing it (as opposed
>> to now!) were my hands, the stretch between my thumb and first finger. I
>> think I was gripping quite tightly, because I was bent over.
>
> Many people wear padded gloves, which help. As well as raising the bars
> the cycle shop can supply a shorter stem to bring the bars nearer and
> make the torso more upright.
>
I think it was the stretch that was hurting, rather than anything else -
it was more comfortable if I didn't put my thumbs underneath, though
that's not ideal for very long, obviously. So changing the position
might be what I need - more upright sounds good, with the bars nearer.
Might be worth going to the bike shop and asking for that. I think I
should get the brakes and gears checked over anyway as they've not been
used for a while (not that I'd need gears on that kind of flat ride,
once I've found the right one, but good to know that they would work if
I needed them).
Alan Braggins
>Firefly wrote:
>
>> Paul Oldham wrote:
>>
>>> Given the choice between the A1303 and the B1102 and my route thereafter
>>> I'd choose the latter every time. They don't hang around on the A1303.
>>
>> Is the A1303 the Lode road way then?
>
>No, the A1303 is the road to Newmarket. Although actually, if I'm
>reading the OS mapping right, I think it's an off road path, so it's
>probably a better option than I implied.
It is - see e.g. http://www.camcycle.org.uk/map/location/16909/
nm...@cam.ac.uk
Firefly <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>Mike Causer wrote:
>
>> The right height for a saddle is with you leg only slightly bent when
>> the pedal is at its furthest stretch. A quick way to get this is to
>> raise (or lower) the saddle until you can /just/ touch the pedal with
>> your heel when the leg is straight.
That height causes many (perhaps even most) people knee pain and
potential damage, if they ride with the pedal under the ball of
their foot. The 'solution' to that is a very high cadence, which
in turn needs some way of holding the foot onto the pedal. For
an average, 'traditional' rider, they should start there and raise
the saddle as they get used to the higher position, as far as is
comfortable - quite often another 2" and sometimes more.
>The very, very tips of my toes are touching or nearly touching when I'm
>sitting. I think I'd worry about stopping if they didn't, as already
>when I tried to stop on a slightly sloped path, it seemed a long way
>down and a lot of bike to topple on me. But I think I probably don't
>have the sliding forward off the saddle technique. Might be better to
>learn that first and then raise the seat a bit more, since my leg is
>still slightly bent even if my heel is on the pedal at its further
>point. So it sounds like I should have the seat higher, but need to get
>better at stopping and sliding off as well.
Get better at that first, or you may hurt yourself. You definitely
do need to raise the saddle, probably by several inches, but you need
to be able to leave the saddle at will before you do that.
>> As you go further you may find that the current saddle is too soft.
>> Serious long-distance cyclists haves saddle you probably would believe
>> are rock-hard. The idea is to have your weight support by the pelvic
>> bones, but a soft saddle lets the bones sink in and puts more of the
>> weight on fleshy parts. The saddle should be very close to
>> horizontal, otherwise there will be pressure on the wrong places.
>
>interesting, that is not what I'd have expected, but I can see it makes
>sense. I'm expecting some soreness tomorrow because I could feel it
>even as I was coming back, so definitely some new muscles found today,
>but I'd probably get used to it if I did it reasonably regularly. Not
>sure once a week or fortnight will be enough not to just cause soreness
>each time, though!
Some do. Some don't. Don't believe what the road racers tell you
about what constitutes a serious long-distance cyclist - there are
still some traditionalists (a.k.a. heretics) around. I had to move
from a leather saddle to a gel one as I got older - that is not a
rare experience.
>>> And perhaps handlebars need to be up too, as I felt like I
>>> was hunching my shoulders up a lot, and putting a lot of pressure on my
>>> hands - the only bits of me that hurt whilst I was doing it (as opposed
>>> to now!) were my hands, the stretch between my thumb and first finger. I
>>> think I was gripping quite tightly, because I was bent over.
>>
>> Many people wear padded gloves, which help. As well as raising the bars
>> the cycle shop can supply a shorter stem to bring the bars nearer and
>> make the torso more upright.
>
>I think it was the stretch that was hurting, rather than anything else -
>it was more comfortable if I didn't put my thumbs underneath, though
>that's not ideal for very long, obviously. So changing the position
>might be what I need - more upright sounds good, with the bars nearer.
The problem about modern bicycles are that they are (at best) hybrids
between a traditional upright and an arse over tit racer. You will
not get any form of stem extension that raises handlebars enough to
take the weight off your hands - you MUST start with a bicycle designed
to do that and, even then, will not be able to do so if you are over 6'.
You may be able to hack carrying much of your weight on your hands; if
so, fine. If not, you will need a different bicycle, I am afraid.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
Henry Lockwood
> - think my bike is perhaps a little too big in frame size, or at least
> needs a little adjusting. I bought it second hand and had it checked at
> a bike shop and they seemed to think it was the right size for me. It's
> a women's bike, I'm quite short with short legs; I can just touch the
> ground if I tip slightly sideways. But when I tried to stop and put a
> foot down as I waited for someone to come round a corner, and the path
> was on a little bit of an incline, it was quite difficult. And yet I
> still kept shifting a bit so that I was trying to sit slightly higher
> and further back. So might need a smaller frame or a higher seat or to
> adjust the angle somehow (it's a padded - women's - saddle, fitted by
> the shop). And perhaps handlebars need to be up too, as I felt like I
> was hunching my shoulders up a lot, and putting a lot of pressure on my
> hands - the only bits of me that hurt whilst I was doing it (as opposed
> to now!) were my hands, the stretch between my thumb and first finger. I
> think I was gripping quite tightly, because I was bent over.
Part of this may be the lack of practice, but a lot sounds like it
could well be due to saddle angles. I've had difficulty in the past
when the saddle was tipped too far forward, as this (a) makes you tend
to slide off and (b) puts the weight through your hand (especcially as
you describe). I'd recommend tipping the saddle back a degree or two,
just a bit at a time, until you find the sweet spot.
Glad you enjoyed the ride!
HenryL
Gareth Rees
> Success! Thanks for all the advice. I made it there and back this
> afternoon.
Glad to hear you enjoyed it. If you're looking for more rides of
similar length around Cambridge, and would like some companions, the
Cyclists Touring Club organise rides for beginners once a fortnight on
Saturday mornings in the summer. See <http://site.ctc-cambridge.org.uk/
2009/07/our-weekly-rides-programme.html#Saturday>
The next one is on Saturday 7th August, to Burwash Manor near Barton.
Meet at 10:00 at the junction of Brookside and Lensfield Road.
See <http://blog.ctc-cambridge.org.uk/2010/07/17-jul-saturday-morning-
ride-to.html> for a description of the last one (17 July).
--
Gareth Rees
Firefly
Thank you - I will check that out, as I am looking for similar sort of
beginner rides. So far all the ones I've found seem to include what
sound like fairly large roads, and roundabouts, which I'm not keen on.
Burwash manor was somewhere I wouldn't mind trying, so I'd be interested
in finding out what route they use. It's got a destination (and
tea-room), which I like. I've also been told Coton might be good, for a
very quiet/off-road cycle.
I'm not around on the 7th but will bookmark the site for the future.
Gareth Rees
> Thank you - I will check that out, as I am looking for similar
> sort of beginner rides. So far all the ones I've found seem
> to include what sound like fairly large roads, and
> roundabouts, which I'm not keen on. Burwash manor was
> somewhere I wouldn't mind trying, so I'd be interested in
> finding out what route they use. It's got a destination (and
> tea-room), which I like. I've also been told Coton might be
> good, for a very quiet/off-road cycle.
The last time the club did an introductory ride to Burwash Manor
they went via Coton, Madingley Hill and Comberton. Reading the
description <http://bit.ly/cUoX5b> I reckon they took this
route: <http://bit.ly/at7lcE> - which is mostly cycle paths or
quiet country lanes.
> I'm not around on the 7th but will bookmark the site for the
> future.
The ride after that is on the 21st of August ... to Anglesey
Abbey!
--
Gareth Rees
Firefly
Thanks, that looks good. It also mentions a 'track to Grantchester'
from Burwash, and then the path back over the meadows. Any idea where
that track is? That might be an alternative way of getting there to
start with, as the idea of Barton Road and the roundabouts on there is a
little off-putting.
Patrick Gosling
Firefly <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>Thanks, that looks good. It also mentions a 'track to Grantchester'
>from Burwash, and then the path back over the meadows. Any idea where
>that track is? That might be an alternative way of getting there to
>start with, as the idea of Barton Road and the roundabouts on there is a
>little off-putting.
There's a bridleway that starts on the Barton Road pretty much exactly
opposite where the B1046 joins it (that's the road that Burwash Manor's
drive comes off).
Crosses over the M11 on a small bridge and eventually winds up at the
end of a road that is eponymously called "Bridle Way" that joins the
Coton Road in Grantchester.
-patrick.
Gareth Rees
> Thanks, that looks good. It also mentions a 'track to
> Grantchester' from Burwash, and then the path back over the
> meadows. Any idea where that track is?
From Barton, go down New Road, cross the A603, and go through
the gate on the opposite side of the road. See Google Street
View: <http://bit.ly/a06xQI>
The track is clearly marked on OpenStreetMap:
<http://osm.org/go/0EQFvAGT-> and here's a photo:
<http://www.cyclestreets.net/location/17615/>
> That might be an alternative way of getting there to start
> with, as the idea of Barton Road and the roundabouts on there
> is a little off-putting.
There's a cycle path all the way from Barton to Cambridge
alongside the A603 so it's not unpleasant. But the track to
Grantchester is certainly more scenic. Try both and see which
one you prefer.
--
Gareth Rees
Firefly
> Firefly wrote:
>> Thanks, that looks good. It also mentions a 'track to
>> Grantchester' from Burwash, and then the path back over the
>> meadows. Any idea where that track is?
>
> From Barton, go down New Road, cross the A603, and go through
> the gate on the opposite side of the road. See Google Street
> View: <http://bit.ly/a06xQI>
>
> The track is clearly marked on OpenStreetMap:
> <http://osm.org/go/0EQFvAGT-> and here's a photo:
> <http://www.cyclestreets.net/location/17615/>
Thanks very much, will give that a try.
>
>> That might be an alternative way of getting there to start
>> with, as the idea of Barton Road and the roundabouts on there
>> is a little off-putting.
>
> There's a cycle path all the way from Barton to Cambridge
> alongside the A603 so it's not unpleasant. But the track to
> Grantchester is certainly more scenic. Try both and see which
> one you prefer.
>
Is the Barton Road path a cycle lane on the road, or an off-road one
like the one to Bottisham? How does it cross the roundabouts? (From the
looks of the map, there are two roundabouts between Cambridge and
Barton)? Not to mention the M11. I can't zoom in on the map or show the
street view as it's freezing the browser at the moment while it is
'waiting'.
Gareth Rees
> Is the Barton Road path a cycle lane on the road, or an
> off-road one like the one to Bottisham?
Off-road.
> How does it cross the roundabouts?
At both roundabouts the path crosses a slip road. You have to
stop and wait until it's safe before crossing, but outside of
rush hour the wait is never very long.
--
Gareth Rees
Firefly
Great, that sounds quite doable then.
Gareth Rees
> From Barton, go down New Road, cross the A603, and go through
> the gate on the opposite side of the road. See Google Street
> View: <http://bit.ly/a06xQI>
Oops, I meant the path to the right of the gate.
--
Gareth Rees
Firefly
Does anyone know if those cans of sealant that re-inflate and seal a
puncture without you have to take the wheel off or the tyre off (I think
they just attach to the valve). My hands are not that strong and not
that keen on having to mend a puncture for the first time out in the
middle of nowhere. If I'm going to do it, I'd rather wait til I'm home
and dry and not rushed. Or take it to a shop. So do those sealant
things work well enough in the situation to get me back at least? I
don't care if they're not a permanent solution, just easy enough to get
me home. Most of the rides I'd be likely to do are mainly on cycle
paths, that lessons the chances of a puncture a little, at least
compared to rough tracks. And it's not like I'm going to do this often.
Tony Raven
>
> Does anyone know if those cans of sealant that re-inflate and seal a
> puncture without you have to take the wheel off or the tyre off (I think
> they just attach to the valve). My hands are not that strong and not
> that keen on having to mend a puncture for the first time out in the
> middle of nowhere. If I'm going to do it, I'd rather wait til I'm home
> and dry and not rushed. Or take it to a shop. So do those sealant
> things work well enough in the situation to get me back at least? I
> don't care if they're not a permanent solution, just easy enough to get
> me home. Most of the rides I'd be likely to do are mainly on cycle
> paths, that lessons the chances of a puncture a little, at least
> compared to rough tracks. And it's not like I'm going to do this often.
You can get stuff you put in the inner tube (or buy them ready filled)
that seals small punctures as they form. It has the disadvantage that
if you get one that isn't sealed its almost impossible to do a
traditional patch on because of all the gunk that comes out the hole.
Add that to some good kevlar belted (not beaded) tyres such as
Schwalbe's Marathon Plus's and its doubtful that a puncture will trouble
you.
But its a good idea anyway to learn how to fix a puncture. You can
practice taking the tyre on and off at home. The make of tyre you have
will also make a difference. Even though they are nominally the same
size some tyres are complete abstrads to get on and others slip onto the
rim with ease.
--
Tony
" I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
Bertrand Russell
Firefly
I'm not sure what kind of tyres I have - it was a second hand bike to
start with. I'm not planning on replacing them any time soon, though,
just want to be able to do the occasional cycle.
The sort of thing I'd seen was http://www.cyclesuk.com/339-527442
which sounds like it's not the slime stuff in the inner tube, but latex.
Not sure whether the tube is patchable afterards, though.
I should learn to do it as well, though, just would rather do it at home
I think than have to do it in the middle of nowhere, specially if I find
that I can't get it back on or whatever!
Tony Raven
>
>
> I'm not sure what kind of tyres I have - it was a second hand bike to
> start with. I'm not planning on replacing them any time soon, though,
> just want to be able to do the occasional cycle.
>
> The sort of thing I'd seen was http://www.cyclesuk.com/339-527442
> which sounds like it's not the slime stuff in the inner tube, but latex.
> Not sure whether the tube is patchable afterards, though.
Those are fine IF they work but if they don't they are one shot and you
are left with a flat tyre and an empty can and not much you can do about it.
Much better to get these which are prevention rather than cure:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Slime_Self_Healing_MTB_Inner_Tube/5360013030/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Slime_Self_Healing_Road_Inner_Tube/5360038257/
or
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Slime_Tube_237ml_Tyre_Sealant/5300005837/
although the former would mean you would have to change the tube at home
first. You might find if you buy them at a Cambridge bike shop and talk
nicely to them they might agree to fit them for you.
Douglas de Lacey
> Firefly wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone know if those cans of sealant that re-inflate and seal a
>> puncture without you have to take the wheel off or the tyre off (I
>> think they just attach to the valve). My hands are not that strong and
>> not that keen on having to mend a puncture for the first time out in
>> the middle of nowhere. If I'm going to do it, I'd rather wait til I'm
>> home and dry and not rushed. Or take it to a shop. So do those sealant
>> things work well enough in the situation to get me back at least? I
>> don't care if they're not a permanent solution, just easy enough to
>> get me home. Most of the rides I'd be likely to do are mainly on cycle
>> paths, that lessons the chances of a puncture a little, at least
>> compared to rough tracks. And it's not like I'm going to do this often.
>
> You can get stuff you put in the inner tube (or buy them ready filled)
> that seals small punctures as they form. It has the disadvantage that if
> you get one that isn't sealed its almost impossible to do a traditional
> patch on because of all the gunk that comes out the hole.
I'm pretty sure that you can't use stuff like slime on presta valves, so
check what valves you have (if you don't know the difference see
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-schrader.html ).
> Add that to some good kevlar belted (not beaded) tyres such as
> Schwalbe's Marathon Plus's and its doubtful that a puncture will trouble
> you.
And if it does it will probably be because (a) your tyre pressure is too
low or (b) the tyre is worn out. (Or perhaps (c) you've ridden over the
broken glass carefully swept into the cycle lane and torn your tyres to
shreds)-:
> But its a good idea anyway to learn how to fix a puncture. You can
> practice taking the tyre on and off at home. The make of tyre you have
> will also make a difference. Even though they are nominally the same
> size some tyres are complete abstrads to get on and others slip onto the
> rim with ease.
If the tyre is right for the rim it should be easy (unless you have very
ancient rims). Getting the *wheel* off can be a pain: I use
quick-release wheels with a special skewer to prevent theft; and I have
just bought a SpeedLever
(http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Crank_Brothers_Speed_Lever/5360019204/)
but haven't yet had a chance to try it out. Oh, and I always carry a
spare tube: I'd much rather repair tubes in the comfort of my own shed
than on a rainy roadside.
Douglas de Lacey
Mike Causer
Douglas de Lacey <de...@cam.ac.uk> wrote:
> and I have just bought a SpeedLever
> (http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Crank_Brothers_Speed_Lever/5360019204/)
> but haven't yet had a chance to try it out.
I find these excellent, and have bought them as presents for friends too.
Mike
Calvin Sambrook
news:rVb5o.8907$X%4.3917@hurricane...
>
> I'm not sure what kind of tyres I have - it was a second hand bike to
> start with. I'm not planning on replacing them any time soon, though,
> just want to be able to do the occasional cycle.
>
> The sort of thing I'd seen was http://www.cyclesuk.com/339-527442
> which sounds like it's not the slime stuff in the inner tube, but latex.
> Not sure whether the tube is patchable afterards, though.
>
> I should learn to do it as well, though, just would rather do it at home I
> think than have to do it in the middle of nowhere, specially if I find
> that I can't get it back on or whatever!
I often cycle with novice cyclists and in groups, here's some thoughts.
It's no fun pushing a dead bike home so get together a small toolkit so you
can fix the most basic problems.
Punctures need two tyre levers, a pump and a spare tube plus possibly an
adjustable spanner to get the wheel off. It's heresy to say this here but
first fix is sometimes to just pump the tyre up and get going again. That
can often be enough to get you home or to somewhere more comfortable with a
supply of cakes and coffee while you do more. If you do need to fix it then
swapping the tube for a fresh one is much easier and quicker at the roadside
than patching (which can be done later to provide a new fresh tube).
Re-inflate cans are a risk as they only give you one chance, I have one for
when I'm racing and there wouldn't be time to fix a puncture any other way
but I don't take it on any other ride.
A lock is a must even if you're not intending to leave your bike anywhere.
If you really have a problem it's usually possible to lock your bike
somewhere and come back for it later by car. Much better than a long push
home.
A small bike multi tool is light and worth carrying as are a few large cable
ties and a small roll of electrical tape. You'd be amazed what can be
repaired with that combination!
Tyre pressures are something that novice cyclists often don't do properly
and they end up suffering as a result. Soft tyres give a gentler ride but
make pedaling much harder. They are much more prone to puncture or worse to
pinch the tube (big horrible puncture) or even worse to let a pothole damage
the rim. A track pump is quite cheap, even Tescos sell them for about a
fiver. Not only will it make it much easier to pump a tyre up in the first
place but it will also have a gauge so you know what pressure it is. The
tyre usually has the intended pressure embossed on the side wall, something
like "inflate to 60 psi". Even if it doesn't I'd never ride a tyre at less
than 40 psi, that feels quite hard to most novice cyclists.
Finish off the toolkit with the essential luxuries. A pair of surgical
gloves to keep your hands clean and a wet wipe.
Firefly
> "Firefly" <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:rVb5o.8907$X%4.3917@hurricane...
>>
>> I'm not sure what kind of tyres I have - it was a second hand bike to
>> start with. I'm not planning on replacing them any time soon, though,
>> just want to be able to do the occasional cycle.
>>
>> The sort of thing I'd seen was http://www.cyclesuk.com/339-527442
>> which sounds like it's not the slime stuff in the inner tube, but
>> latex. Not sure whether the tube is patchable afterards, though.
>>
>> I should learn to do it as well, though, just would rather do it at
>> home I think than have to do it in the middle of nowhere, specially if
>> I find that I can't get it back on or whatever!
>
> I often cycle with novice cyclists and in groups, here's some thoughts.
>
> It's no fun pushing a dead bike home so get together a small toolkit so
> you can fix the most basic problems.
>
Thanks for that; I'll print it out and get a few things together. A
spare tube sounds helpful; I'd much rather try patching it once I'm
home, if needed. And I'd rather try re-inflating first either with the
pump or the can of selant before taking the wheel off, but I can see
that it's better to be prepared to do it if needed. I'll have to have a
look at some of the guides online to work out how to take the wheels off
- I get the idea of how to get the tyre off and the tube out, but not
sure about the wheel itself, and I'd be more worried about not getting
it back on properly. Much rather just pump it back up long enough to
get home if possible, and then worry about the rest when i'm warm and
dry. I expect a trip to the bike shop will be in order before I go out
again (if nothing else, to help me adjust the seat and handlebars, since
I've so far failed to do even that on my own, though I'm not sure
whether I'm not strong enough or whether they are rusty).
I do have a proper pump, though, with a pressure guage, the one I have
at home. I also have a normal hand pump, might even see if I can get
those clips that would attach it to the bike itself, as it tends to fall
through the basket - though if I'm carrying all that, I'd probably end
up with a little backpack anyway!!
And the idea of locking the bike up to something and coming back for it
appeals to me even more greatly. Or even better, ringing someone to
come get me that has room for a bike in the car (sadly probably not a
taxi I'm guessing, unless they have ones big enough). I'm a fair
weather cyclist, at least for now.
Magnus
> "Firefly" <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:rVb5o.8907$X%4.3917@hurricane...
>>
>> I'm not sure what kind of tyres I have - it was a second hand bike to
>> start with. I'm not planning on replacing them any time soon, though,
>> just want to be able to do the occasional cycle.
>>
>> The sort of thing I'd seen was http://www.cyclesuk.com/339-527442
>> which sounds like it's not the slime stuff in the inner tube, but
>> latex. Not sure whether the tube is patchable afterards, though.
>>
>> I should learn to do it as well, though, just would rather do it at
>> home I think than have to do it in the middle of nowhere, specially if
>> I find that I can't get it back on or whatever!
>
> I often cycle with novice cyclists and in groups, here's some thoughts.
>
> It's no fun pushing a dead bike home so get together a small toolkit so
> you can fix the most basic problems.
>
> Punctures need two tyre levers, a pump and a spare tube plus possibly an
> adjustable spanner to get the wheel off. It's heresy to say this here
> but first fix is sometimes to just pump the tyre up and get going again.
> That can often be enough to get you home or to somewhere more
> comfortable with a supply of cakes and coffee while you do more. If you
> do need to fix it then swapping the tube for a fresh one is much easier
> and quicker at the roadside than patching (which can be done later to
> provide a new fresh tube).
A new tube is the easiest way to go provided you've remembered to remove
from the tyre the b*****d thing (piece of glass or thorn, etc) that
first caused the puncture. BTDTGTTS
If your bike has fairly fat tyres stuff called Tuffy Tape fitted between
the tyre and the inner tube is very effective at providing protection
from punctures, though it does add weight to the tyre.
Tony Raven
>
> If your bike has fairly fat tyres stuff called Tuffy Tape fitted between
> the tyre and the inner tube is very effective at providing protection
> from punctures, though it does add weight to the tyre.
>
And in my experience, unless you feather the edge with a soldering iron,
Tuffy Tape tends to cut a line over time across the tube that leads to a
rapid puncture that is unrepairable. YMMV
Tony
Calvin Sambrook
news:8bomkb...@mid.individual.net...
Oh, I forgot to mention that very important point. It's no good putting a
new tube in unless you seek and destroy the thing that caused the puncture
in the first place. Carefully looking from the outside then even more
carefully running your fingers around the inside of the tyre almost always
find it.
Tony Raven
>
> Oh, I forgot to mention that very important point. It's no good putting
> a new tube in unless you seek and destroy the thing that caused the
> puncture in the first place. Carefully looking from the outside then
> even more carefully running your fingers around the inside of the tyre
> almost always find it.
>
Be careful running your fingers round inside - you can get a nasty cut
that way.
Tony
Jonathan Anderson
> Add that to some good kevlar belted (not beaded) tyres such as
> Schwalbe's Marathon Plus's and its doubtful that a puncture will trouble
> you.
I have used Specialized Armadillos in the past which were pretty damn
good. I recall picking bits of glass out of one tyre, which would
normally have gone through a normal one.
Jon
Ben C
> Firefly <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> considered Mon, 02 Aug 2010
> 18:52:39 +0100 the perfect time to write:
>
>>
>>Thanks for that; I'll print it out and get a few things together. A
>>spare tube sounds helpful; I'd much rather try patching it once I'm
>>home, if needed.
>
> to make sure that whatever caused the puncture is not still stuck in
> there, otherwise you'll just puncture another tube.
Yes. Best way is to leave the cover in place then match up the tube
after you found the hole so you know where to look the hardest.
> Actually, that still applies if you patch it, although it may take a
> bit longer to work it's way through a patch.
It may not end up aligned with the patch if you take the cover off
completely, or put the tube back the other way round, or aren't one of
those people who aligns the tyre label with the valve.
The last three "punctures" I've had were the valve separating anyway,
for which you definitely need a spare tube.
Douglas de Lacey
>
> I do have a proper pump, though, with a pressure guage, the one I have
> at home.
Good. Make sure your tyres are kept well pumped up (the max pressure
should be marked on the tyre somewhere): best way of avoiding punctures.
> And the idea of locking the bike up to something and coming back for it
> appeals to me even more greatly.
If you want it still to be there I recommend 2 locks -- one can be cheap
but it's still a good deterrent. And postcode your bike and get a label
saying you've done so (NHW should be able to provide them: I can if you
can't find one elsewhere) -- as good a deterrent as another lock. (As
distinct from smartwater or immobilise which aren't deterrent at all
because the tealeaf can't see them.)
Douglas de Lacey
Firefly
I've got one of those stickers on it saying it's been registered, but I
don't know if that's much of a deterrent because it could be easily
peeled off, and then presumably nobody would know that it had been
marked! Maybe I should paint it on as well.
Tony Raven
>
> The last three "punctures" I've had were the valve separating anyway,
> for which you definitely need a spare tube.
Me too. Not Specialized tubes were they? They seem to be more prone to
this IME.
Tony
Mark Ayliffe
Phil W Lee <ph...@lee-family.me.uk> illuminated us with:
> Firefly <Fireflysn...@yahoo.co.uk> considered Mon, 02 Aug 2010
> 18:52:39 +0100 the perfect time to write:
>
>>
>>spare tube sounds helpful; I'd much rather try patching it once I'm
>>home, if needed.
>
> to make sure that whatever caused the puncture is not still stuck in
> there, otherwise you'll just puncture another tube.
> bit longer to work it's way through a patch.
And do not just run your finger around the inside to look for the
offending item. It's likely to be broken glass. Been there, done that,
had the lacerated finger.
--
Mark
Real email address |
is mark at | Common Sense is very Uncommon.
ayliffe dot org |
Eleanor Blair
>(As
>distinct from smartwater or immobilise which aren't deterrent at all
>because the tealeaf can't see them.)
I have a bright yellow immobilise water bottle, which lives permanently
on the bike.
I stick with one lock rather than two, for my own convenience, but
always make sure I lock up to something solid, preferably an actual bike
rack. Wooden fences no longer count as solid enough for me, unless the
bike is being left very briefly. If I had quick release wheels I'd also
make sure they were locked to the bike, in which case a second lock
might be needed.
Do keep a record of your frame number somewhere, in the very unlikely
event your bike is nicked *and* recovered by the police it makes it much
easier to restore the bike to you.
Ben C
I don't think so. I think two were the tubes that originally came with
the bike, but they probably weren't Specialized (French bike, mostly
Italian or French components), and I've never bought a Specialized tube.
I put it down to age. Maybe they get scraped a little bit on the valve
hole especially when you pump the tyre up.
Oliver Mattos
> >> The last three "punctures" I've had were the valve separating anyway,
To solve this get some sandpaper out and make sure there are no sharp
bits around the hole in the rim the valve pokes through.
Alan Braggins
>>
>> You can get stuff you put in the inner tube (or buy them ready filled)
>> that seals small punctures as they form. It has the disadvantage that if
>> you get one that isn't sealed its almost impossible to do a traditional
>> patch on because of all the gunk that comes out the hole.
>
>I'm pretty sure that you can't use stuff like slime on presta valves, so
>check what valves you have (if you don't know the difference see
>http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-schrader.html ).
You can buy ready slimed presta valved tubes. And apparently you can fill
them yourselves with a certain amount of faffing about:
http://commutebybike.com/2006/11/12/how-to-slime-presta-valve-tubes/
http://nosin.blogspot.com/2006/02/how-to-slime-presta-tube.html
But I wouldn't recommend it, in my limited experience the slime can clog
up the valve (as well as making it almost impossible to patch holes that
the slime hasn't coped with, as noted by the previous poster).