Smart Switch Pc Download
Mozell Gentges
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smart switch pc download
I would do a general exclusion first (put the hub in exclusion and turn the switch on/ off). Then when you try to include it go to the GE section and select GE on off switch. I have about 30 of them and some are stubborn. Good luck!
I just installed three of these last week and none were just discovered with the broad discover devices tool without help. I had to actually add a specific GE switch under the lighting section and when narrowed down to the type of GE switch and then it was discovered. All three working great.
In the end I wound up putting my old Securifi A+ hub into general exclusion, popping the air gap and pressing on/ off/ /on a few times. Then having ST search for it. After about the third or fourth try it finally connected. I am pretty sure my neighbors to the back were less than thrilled I was flashing the back spot lights on/off from 11:45pm- 1:20 am trying to get it reincluded.
As it turns out I had to move the SmartHub to my wifi extender that is upstairs. I guess 25 feet away is too far a way for it to connect. When it was moved to 10 feet away it connected right away. My house is not that large (1950 sqft), what do you guys do if you have a large house?
I have 2 hs210 switches at the beginning and end of a series of switches, with a dumb switch in the middle, with 2 black and 2 red wires and 1 ground. If i turn off the middle switch it cuts power to the last hs210. So you cant use 2 3-way switches in a 4way setup? Both hs210s are setup as a pair but if the middle switch is turned off, the light will not work.
@NorCalRicky I have a four way setup. At first I installed two HS210 switches but realized only one is required. So I have standard three way, a standard four-way and an HS210 on the circuit and they all work (although the HS210 does not detect when I turn on the light using the four way switch. So it is possible you just have to get the wires right.
I have a similar issue with a three way setup. When I replaced the one or the two HS210 switches with a standard three way switch that standard switch turns off power to the HS210. I need to figure out the correct wiring.
OK, I have the same question....or similar anyway. It is not clear to me from any of the literature or postings here how many HS210's I need to control a simple 4-way circuit. Actually it might not be considered "simple" as it is a single group of lights controlled from 7 different locations. However, it should still be simple in that it simply uses 2 standard 3-way switches, one on either end, with five 4-way switches in the middle. The concept is the same regardless of the number of control locations.....you replace one of the standard 3-way switches with a HS210. Right? Or, do you have to replace BOTH standard 3-way switches with HS210's....requiring two HS210's? This is unclear. I am seeing both methods suggested here. I would assume you only needed to replace one. But I tried that and it didn't work. The HS210 kept clicking the lights on and off at about a two second interval. I was sure I had it wired right, (I'm wiring it at the "line" end of the circuit where the power first enters) but tried changing the configuration.....still, same result. I tried the 3rd possibility and now nothing worked...I abandoned the project to do more research.....with no success...so now I'm here. The Kasa app actually makes this more complicated than it needs to be....or it's so simplified that I don't understand it. It does seem to maybe imply that I need two HS210's (or does it?). It's not like I don't have some electrical experience.....I actually wired this whole house 20 years ago including this 7 switch light circuit. A simple actual wiring diagram would be helpful.
@dmd4home That suggests that you do not have the correct (constant) line and neutral connected to the appropriate terminals - it seems like you have it powered with switches in a certain configuration and when you switch the output state of the HS210 you are losing power to the device and therefor also the Wifi - regardless of what the outputs are doing, it must maintain line and neutral to the device in order to have the WiFi circuit active.
Regarding the TPLink WiFi signal on your phone - that is present when the device is in AP mode - pairing mode - and is used to set up the device with your app where you will then input your SSID/P/W that you wish to use to connect to the device.
I took the cover plate off and looked at them closely only thing on the front is the switch itself with a small plastic trim ring around the toggle. It is not removable. Maybe that is the difference, these are toggles and not paddles.
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I found out what the problem actually is. This switch need to be close to the hub to pair. In my house I was a floor down and about 40 feet away. Since the switch need power I could not just move it there. So I made a pigtail to connect the switch to an ordinary power outlet. The load does not need to be connected. I ensured that I had correct polarity by operating the switch and hearing the relay inside clicking. I plugged the pigtail into an outlet near the hub and then I was able to pair. I removed the pigtail, installed the switch in its original location and now it did work.
In another room (again, there are GE devices physically further from the hub), I did the same thing as the other room. In this room however the single switch paired fine but the dimmer and fan control would not pair.
Looking at this data, there are likely two things going on here: the switches are not receiving exclusion commands properly, and there may be interference from other nearby switches. With two devices near each other, it may be the first one that connected is now drowning out the signal from the Hub for the other one.
Please let me know what time you try to bring the Hub closer to the switch and begin General Device Exclusion. This way I can take a look in the event logs at what activity happened in your Z-Wave network at that time. Looking forward to hearing back from you.
(1) My initial problem was that the GE Smart Switch not even passing power to the single outside garage light. I saw the comment about the required neutral connection for this type of device, and that fixed my problem. I get that not all possible customer configurations can be accounted for, but there was nothing in the GE install instructions that said the product would not work w/o a neutral connection.
(2) My ST v2 hub refused to see the newly installed GE Z-wave switch - doing the steps of excluding general devices, turning the GE switch on/off a few timers, and then manually adding the device from the Marketplace-Switch-GE Smart Z-wave Paddle Switch page solved the problem.
I recently installed a Wyze Cam Floodlight to replace an existing flood light that was on a standard light switch inside the house. Afterwards I installed a Wyze Smart Switch as to keep the kiddos from turning off the power to the floodlight. In trying to setup the switch for smart control I wanted to just single press to toggle the flood lights on/off without cutting off the power to the whole device. Is this possible? I was able to get the double tap and triple tap to turn on and turn off respectively but this is not going to be user friendly for most people.
I have installed the wyze flood and wyze switch as well. Would love to be able to program the single tap feature to turn on the flood lights. I currently have that programmed as a double press function. I hope someone from Wyze is reading this thread!
I have tried repeatedly to use the rules and everything looks correct but the floodlight does not turn on. I would hope that someone from wyze support could escalate this as a potential bug in the app/rules.
I have a portable audio recording system that uses a Dante network on a Netgear GS310TP Smart Switch. I occasionally need to interface this system to an existing Dante network to get what is essentially a Dante audio split from an existing "House" audio system. The last time this happened was at a local theater and according to the house engineer he couldn't connect to my existing network because I was using a "Smart" switch, so we had to tear my system apart and use 3 separate CAT6 cables to put all of my gear directly on his network for it to work. This solution was obviously not ideal.
He mentioned that if my switch was "Dumb" he would have been able to just plug my switch into his network and everything would work on my system like normal. Is that the correct method of doing this and if so what needs to be changed on my switch to make it "Dumb" and enable me to just connect my system to his without tearing it apart?
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