Pitot Sensor Mercury
Karola
In the seemingly never ending saga of the engine on our boat, we took it out for the first launch on Saturday. Weather wasn't good but we just wanted to test the boat with the new engine so happy to just stick to sheltered waters around Calshot.
Didn't start well when the engine wouldn't start but that was quickly diagnosed to me forgetting to put the kill cord on. Engine started, we push off the trailer and it died. Restarted poodled around while I parked, and that was it. Wouldn't rev mush over idle and kept cutting out. My boat mate who was on the boat managed to coax it to the jetty by the slip where we fiddled with the vessel view app and checked wiring etc to no avail. I tied a long line to the front and pulled it back around to the slip and back on the trailer.
From a bit of googling the second one is probably because there isn't a pitot sensor on the engine and its just the first one that we need to worry about. Seems the floats in the tanks have a magnet on them that falls off and a new tank is 500, a new sensor is 45.
Any one on here got experience of repairing the tank rather than replacing? Already spent far too much on this engine. Tempting to bypass the sensor but if we were to run out of oil and wreck the engine properly it would make the new tank seem cheap...
Unless I'm missing something I'm pretty sure we just have the engine tank. I had a look but to be honest I was so pissed off that it still didn't work I didn't look properly but how do you get in to the float to glue the magnet back on? Looked a bit like a ship in a bottle to me and would need an gynecologist to get to?
When I had a piece of crap 90 merc two smoke, the oil chamber needed to full and the engine trimmed down fully. I had much the same issue where it cut out, so went through checking isolation switches etc etc but when I turned off the battery and back on with the engine key still in the on position, it burnt out the electrical rectifier (costing $500). With mine the oil reservoir needed to always be a minimum of 3/4 full . Soon replaced it with a Yam 4 stroke 70 which surprisingly gave much the same performance but without the high fuel use (once propped right).
It should do if its simply a case of keeping the oil topped up ahead of every trip instead of every three trips like I was trying. Once I found out, I could simply keep it filled and not have issues. The rectifier was a known issue is you did what I did and turn on the battery isolator while the engine was in the start position, if I had known before hand I possibly wouldn't of made the mistake.
Also, it was simply a bit of a piss take on the merc, they are very good motors these days, I would happily buy another (already have a 75 merc 4 stroke which has been faultless).
Ive done the same with older ones but was advised not to on the newer ones. I stay way from doing much to my outboards and leave it to the mechanic, who comes to my house to work on any engines I need looking at. The mechanic has a commercial boat that I often skipper, so looks after me well in terms of priority and price.
The opti is actually a very good engine, and when running properly is also very reliable. The oil injection system is somewhat complex, put generally apart from the 'oil level' issue, give very little problems. The opti always had a reputation regarding the oil injection, as some used to just sip oil and others used to drink oil, but there seemed to be no reason for the difference and the usage and performance was similar.
If you get the opportunity, it maybe wise, to have a marine grease monkey who is very familiar with the opti to take a look at it, as some of the fault symptoms and codes are not what they seem (a bit like cars).
There are several thread on the USA site 'Hull Truth' that relate to your issues, but be warned, Hull Truth can be quite toxic at times, but equally a good source of info from a good number of folk that know what they are talking about.
Thanks. I had Barry at Winsor Marine service it, and have the shift rod straightened already. As I'm already 2k into a supposedly good engine I think I'll bypass the sensor and take it for a trial before I spend any more on it
Doesn't sound all that bad. Battery is nonsense, If it cold starts with ease, it's big enough, Throttle body linkage will be why throttle isn't opening fully. Alternator mounts, again, no biggy, fuel and air filters regular service items. So just leaves the pumps, not sure what the deal is on optimax, and no doubt they are quoting to replace the entire engine loom?
Looms can be repaired quite easily but I can understand you may well want a new one anyway. But there's plenty there you can do yourself to take a lump off of the 2k bill. If you bought this from a dealer I would be going back to them and having it out with them though.....
re battery, thats my thoughts on it. No idea why a 1500cc outboard would need a battery bigger than a 2.5l diesel car? Loom isn't being replaced, it works just been cut into and rejoined and don't look great but it works so it stays. One of the fuel pumps - the lift pump can be rebuilt so they are doing that, the other 2, low pressure and high pressure apparently can't be so are being replaced.
I normally do everything myself, I've rebuilt car engines etc in the past but I just want to use the boat and I don't know enough about boat engines to be confident yet, I didn't know this engine had 3 fuel pumps to go wrong for example.
It was tempting to put the money towards a new engine on finance and give up on this one but the other money is gone and isn't coming back so its a choice of spending 2k or spending 8k minus what we'll get back on a spares or repair outboard.
Smokestacks at coal-fired power plants have sensors that continuously monitor their emissions by measuring the flow of gases such as carbon dioxide, mercury, sulfur dioxide, and nitrogen oxides. By federal law, these sensors need to be calibrated every year. They are calibrated with small, portable flow-measurement devices called pitot tubes.
But scientists suspect there are fairly high uncertainties on the calibration measurements conducted with the pitot tubes. And uncertainties will be a problem for companies if power plants are charged for their emissions under cap-and-trade policies.
In anticipation of the eventual need to increase the accuracy of these measurements, and working in consultation with the Electric Power Research Institute (EPRI), researchers at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) have now measured the uncertainties of the different kinds of pitot tubes now being used to calibrate smokestack-emission sensors.
Right now, to measure flow, smokestacks are installed with an ultrasonic system called a Continuous Emission Monitoring System (CEMS), which consists of a pair of devices that take turns sending ultrasonic pulses to one another from up and down the chimney. In one direction, the ultrasound travels with the flow and slightly speeds up. In the other direction, it travels against it and slightly slows down. Calculating the speed of the gas requires measuring how long it takes the ultrasound to travel in each direction.
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