Scott,
By now you know whatever I use...it won't be conventional. My Engineering background colours everything I do. I attached two photos that explain my scope set-up and how I focus.
The first photo shows my refractor and SCT. I added a Moonlite High Resolution focuser to my BK80ED refractor. The refractor has it's 0.85 focal reducer/flatener, fliter drawer and the QHY294C attached. The SCT has my own version of a stepper motor controlled focuser.
The second photo shows some of the details of my homebrew stepper motor focuser. The 12V stepper motor has an internal 64:1 gearbox and is connected to the focuser knob using a gear and timing belt arrangement that I purchased from China when that was still possible. The 12V stepper motor is wired so that it can be controlled by the same controller as the Moonlite Focuser. The Moonlite Focuser is designed to interface to their own equipment or to the RoboFocus device. This wiring diagram is public domain so that was straight forward.
So that's the hardware...now for the custom software that I wrote...you were expecting something different?
I have written a program that will capture a piece of the computer screen video and lets me do calculations with it. For my Nikon DSLR I use DIGICAMCONTROL to display a liveview from the DSLR. The mount is pointed at a bright star. I then use my program to "click" on the liveview screen where the star is located and now my program performs a real-time pseudo-FWHM calculation. The calculation is not exactly a FWHM calculation so I call it a "Starsize" calculation. It basically tells me how many pixels are brighter than 50% of the star's peak brightness.
I then have an algorithm that moves the focuser position thru a small range of motion stopping at small increments just long enough for the starsize calculation to stabilize. I graph the focuser position vs the starsize value and it draws a perfect parabola. The starsize starts off large and then shrinks as the focuser approaches perfect focus. The focuser continues to move which causes the starsize value to rise up again. Once this algorithm completes I then fit a quadratic equation to the data and solve for the minimum value. This value gives me the focuser position needed for perfect focus. I then reposition the focuser to that value using an anti-backlash technique.
For the QHY294C I wrote a program to display live video from the camera to support this focusing technique.
I was able to get the gentleman who wrote DIGICAMCONTROL to incorporate the "starsize" calculation into the ASTRO module in his program.
I suspect your approach will be to hold the controller for the focuser in your hand while you watch the liveview display on your camera. You will need to zoom in to do this. There is lots of information out their about needs to refocus several times during the evening. So far I have never needed to do this. My program analyses every photo I take and one of the parameters it spits out is FWHM. I have a trend of FWHM running while I am imaging and it bounces around but never seems to trend upwards very much. It's very difficult to assess FWHM because guiding issues and flexure will cause FWHM to increase...both of these have nothing to do with focus.
I'm sure you will enjoy having a motorized focuser...much easier to achieve accurate focus.
Peter