I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

[work]

I just purchased a mooring at Morro Bay, California.  I want to purchase a Cabo Rico for the mooring and future world cruising.  Earlier this year my wife and I looked at a 38 in Baltimore and fell in love with it.  Logistics got in the way and we had to let that one go.  We have not seen a 36 yet but think that my be more appropriate for us due to the price.  If anyone knows of a 36 for sale, please let me know.  As far as sailing, how does the 36 compare to the 38?

 

Thanks, Doug Walters

[Thierry Danz]

The best place to look is Yachtworld.com.  Not too many CR36s on the market.  The CR36, by the way, is an extended CR34.  They just extended the transom by 2 feet.  You probably can get an older 38 for less money than a 36, and there are a lot more for sale, although most are on the east coast.  I did see one 34 and two 38s for sale on the west coast.

 

Thierry

CR 42 # 12 CURLEW

Baltimore, MD

www.sailblogs.com/member/curlew

 

 

 

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[Doug]

Thanks for the information. I understand a 36 is an extended 34. I
don't understand why a 36 would be more expensive than a 38. Is it a
matter of suppy and demand?

Doug

On Jul 20, 1:55 pm, "Thierry Danz" <thierry.d...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> The best place to look is Yachtworld.com.  Not too many CR36s on the market.
> The CR36, by the way, is an extended CR34.  They just extended the transom
> by 2 feet.  You probably can get an older 38 for less money than a 36, and
> there are a lot more for sale, although most are on the east coast.  I did
> see one 34 and two 38s for sale on the west coast.
>
> Thierry
>
> CR 42 # 12 CURLEW
>
> Baltimore, MD
>
> www.sailblogs.com/member/curlew
>
>   _____  
>

[Cab...@aol.com]

You will probably be able to find a 38 for about the same as a 36.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

---

What's for dinner tonight? Find quick and easy dinner ideas for any occasion.

[Cab...@aol.com]

Yes, there are not that many 36's

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Dave Newberg]

Hi Doug

I can't comment on the 36 but four years ago (hard to believe it's been that long huh Larry?) my wife and I sea-trialed both a 38 and a 34 which is the predecessor to the current 36. We chose our 34 "Cigano" because of it's smaller size/weight, not because of sailing characteristics. We are in a very tight harbor and we also like to sneak into some very confined anchorages.

As I understand it, the new 36 has exactly the same hull as the 34 with 2 feet drawn on to the stern plan by Mr Crealock. In our opinion that is probably a good idea because with a full load of water and our abundance of ground tackle, Cigano sits slightly bow-down at rest. The extra aft outside storage and bigger back porch would also be nice. But now the boat is . . . hmm almost a 38.

34s are scarce when shopping for boats to purchase - 36s too.

Anyway, we observed that the 38 has more speed, of course due to waterline length. Although both bows are very similar, the 38 has more momentum due to it's weight/length, hence bashes through the seas better than the 34 and has a bit smoother ride. Cigano has a bit lower displacement to sail area ratio, so she's more spirited and responsive and thus is a little easier to get it back up to speed while bashing into those seas - either way, a compromise. The 38 has more storage and I think has larger fuel and water tanks than on the 34 which has 40/fuel and 140/water.

With that in mind, for long distance cruising, we'd definitely opt for the 38. For coastal cruising it's a bit more complicated depending on your preferences. We can carry enough stores for two to cruise for 3-4 weeks.

Under the control of our monitor wind vane, Cigano sails superbly at every wind angle, something very important to us and I am willing to bet the 38s have the same or better results. Downwind performance is marginal in light wind and we are definitely planning to add an asymmetrical spinnaker to our inventory, as I believe 38 owners may also suggest. Our 34 won and placed second in a couple of fairly long distance offshore races even with old cruising sails. But conditions were clearly in Cigano's favor.

After acquiring Cigano, I began receiving a ton of emails asking for our comments about almost everything, So to save time, I finally put the comments and a lot of other junk all on my web site if you're interested. 

Best of luck with your decision.

Dave

[ldcbarker]

Doug,

Not sure your budget but check out our boat www.freewebs.com/caoborico

It is not a 34/36 and does not have a fold up table which I see as really desirable. This can be done. Thierry is right, there is little difference except the layout and water line. There are many things I like about the 34's that I have seen, I would like to apply to my boat. However, We have an aft storage area that is very big and high volume and in many respects the same amount of room or better than a 34. I am not as astute as others on this board but I have to believe the 38 will perform better. Not going to run the numbers. Just know what I know. The 38 sails really good.

Thanks

Larry

 

 

 

In a message dated 07/20/09 18:11:55 Eastern Daylight Time, dwal...@tcsn.net writes:

Thanks for the information.  I understand a 36 is an extended 34.  I
don't understand why a 36 would be more expensive than a 38.  Is it a

matter of supply and demand?

---

Get ready to win! You could score awesome prizes all summer long on AOL.

[alangluyas]

Hi Doug

 

The CR34 is a much newer design than the 38, which started life in the early 70’s as the Tiburon 36 and like the 34 to 36 morph, gained two feet by extending the transom.

 

With apologies to all who own and love 34’s, I think that the 38 has got better lines and is more graceful overall. We looked at two 34’s in and around Annapolis when we bought Brite Star, our 1984 CR38, several years ago. They are just a bit “foreshortened” in comparison with the 38, in my opinion. This has nothing to do with their sailing qualities or any other attributes. I don’t have the info but I think the CR34’s came out in the late 80’s. Someone else on the thread will know this.

 

I don’t think you will find a 38 cheaper than a similar year 34, so it is not really comparing apples and apples.

 

The CR 38’s ( and the 34’s) are both excellent vessels and very well built. I am a professional (and qualified) marine surveyor and I went into my purchase with my eyes open. The later model 38’s ( probably in the CR34 era) are significantly and noticeably better built and detailed than the earlier ones.

 

I would advise you to avoid an older boat with teak decks, and be prepared to replace the teak cockpit sole if it is original.

 

Cheers

 

Al

 

"Brite Star" Cabo Rico 38 #82
Mandurah Western Australia

 

 

---

[Dave Newberg]

As for years the 34 was built - our is a 1990 - hull #7. I think they started building 34s in 1988 or 89.

I reluctantly agree with Al about the appearance - the 38s do have better lines. Humph. 

Dave

Cigano - Cabo Rico 34 #7

[Thierry Danz]

Cabo Rico started building 38s in the mid-70s. In total about 190 38s were
built. The first 34 was built in 1988 or 1989. I don't know how many
34/36s were built but problably fewer than 50. A 38 is obviously more
expensive than a 34/36 from the same year (all else being the same).

Thierry

[ldcbarker]

Doug,

Better minds that I. And yes we are in the process of considering ho to.. and how much of the cockpit floor to replace. It is really unfortunate. They had a great concept. They mounted the cockpit floor on a 1/4" piece of solid fiberglass on out 1984 model. And totally intended to screw that panel into the solid fiberglass outside the core. WELL!! They did not do that in 2 of they 4 corners on our boat. It would have been a totally sealed system otherwise. So far the worst problem we have had. GREAT BOAT!!

 

Larry Barker

Hull 89

CR38 1984

[ldcbarker]

Dave,

That's cool. A compilation of Q's about your boat. Of course I can't think of a better person to ask and get more detailed info. That is great. Good for you.

Larry

[Bill Jones]

I have owned my Cabo 38 since 9/11/2001 and is hull #2. It has been in the
Santa Cruz harbor for most of its life. It is still going strong. A
surveyor recently reported to me that he thinks my 38 is the prettiest boat
in the harbor. It still draws many compliments. I agree however with the
comments about the teak deck. I wish it did not have teak on the deck and I
need to either replace or remove the teak sole in the cockpit. I also
could not imagine much difference in price between a 36 and a 38.

Bill
Alakazam



Bill Jones
Mobile: (408) 234-4725
Email: bi...@billejones.com
Website: http://agent.interorealestate.com/BillJones/

[ldcbarker]

Doug,

You can check out Venteux at www.freewebs.com.caborico

 

This is a 1984 CR38 no teak decks and always fresh water.

Larry Barker

[Sharon Isikoff]

Lollipop ( CR 38 hull#121) is still for sale here in Florida. We
are really motivated to sell her, have dropped the price compared to
others of her vintage on the market. She is a beautiful boat, in
good condition, no teak decks. We sure wish somebody would buy
her! Sharon

[Thierry Danz]

Sharon,

Where do you have her for sale, I don't see her on yachtworld.com. (Just out
of curiosity.)

Thierry

-----Original Message-----
From: cabo...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cabo...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Sharon Isikoff
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 19:40
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

[norskm...@aol.com]

I purchased my 1980 Cabo Rico 38, #24, in Jan 2003 for the same dollar amount that the orgininal owner purchased it from the factory in 1980.  Of course there is inflation to consider but it does show that the boat is highly thought of as far as resale is concerned and the longivity of the design.  I recently had an insurance survey on the boat and the survey came out $20,000 higher than I paid for it.  I must admit that I have installed/installing a few high dollar up grades but still!!

I love the boat, the sea kindly sailing qualities and the solid feeling while out at sea.  I looked and waited for over two years to find this boat and have not been disappointed for the wait.  Since it is an older boat I do have to maintain and replace but very often I see people walking down the dock saying, "Nice boat, nice boat, nice boat" and when they see my Cabo Rico the comment is, "What a beautiful boat!!".  Make a fella kind of swell up and grin just might!.

The 38 could use more storage but than again every boat could use more storage.

Hopefully you can get a handle on what you can live with.

John

SV "Papillon"  Cabo Rico 38 #25 - 1980

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[Mickey Panayiotakis]

John

I've 1980 hull #30 (s/v bahia).  I bought it pretty cheap, considering, but have done a lot of work on her.  She's already surveyed at a significant amount more than I bought her, and I'm continuing to  work on her.  Still a beautiful boat and I wouldn't trade her in for any clorox bottle on the market today.

mickey

[Sharon Isikoff]

She is for sale at http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/6649. Our
broker was an idiot so she is no longer on yacht world.

[Cab...@aol.com]

Older boats are OK if you don't mind doing a lot of work. If you do buy an older one I can give you a list of "thing you may need to do".  Good luck

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Cab...@aol.com]

"All else" is never the same.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Cab...@aol.com]

I have hull #19 and have removed the teak decks long ago, I have not done the cockpit sole. It's cored with plywood that I have injected resin into but have not replaced yet. 

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19 

[Cab...@aol.com]

Larry your url is still not working.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[ldcbarker]

Breck,

Must have been temporary. Just checked it and opened fine. Thanks for the heads up.

 You still racing weekly?

http://www.freewebs.com/caborico/ 

[Mickey Panayiotakis]

Larry, your original URL was mistyped. 

Breck, cockpit sole was actually pretty easy for me, as the plywood had disintegrated and I was able to remove it pretty easily.  Also, since I replaced that teak grate, Id idn't have to worry about fairing!  I replaced the cockpit core with end-grain balsa.

  Teak-related deck core wet-spots were a big pain in the ass, as you probably know.  

Y

[Bill Jones]

To Breck.  How big of a job was it removing the binnacle and all the associated linkages.  I look at the steering linkage/chain and I shutter to have to get into that mess.  I need to either remove and replace the plywood underneath the  teak or go to non skid gel coat instead.

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

Bill Jones
Mobile: (408) 234-4725
Email: bi...@billejones.com
Website: http://agent.interorealestate.com/BillJones/      

 

---

From: cabo...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cabo...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Panayiotakis
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 8:46 AM
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

 

Larry, your original URL was mistyped. 

[Clay]

As an owner of a 34'..I found this a bit dishartening to find.....hope
this is a mistake(price)..or there is something seriously wrong with
this boat...

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/Cabo-Rico--2078919/Ft.-Lauderdale/FL/United-States

Regards,

Clay
s/v 'Tango'
Kent Narrows,Md.

[Mickey Panayiotakis]

When I did it, It was easier than I expected.  Just undo the steering cables from the quadrant and binnacle, and the whole thing lifts up (4 bolts).

Y

On Jul 21, 2009, at 11:51 AM, Bill Jones wrote:

To Breck.  How big of a job was it removing the binnacle and all the associated linkages.  I look at the steering linkage/chain and I shutter to have to get into that mess.  I need to either remove and replace the plywood underneath the  teak or go to non skid gel coat instead.

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

<image001.jpg>

Bill Jones
Mobile: (408) 234-4725
Email: bi...@billejones.com
Website: http://agent.interorealestate.com/BillJones/       

<image002.gif>
 

[Bill Jones]

Actually I think it is a little high as I purchased my 38 for $65,000 8
years ago. Of course this 34 is newer than mine but mine looks pretty
similar.
Bill

Bill Jones
Mobile: (408) 234-4725
Email: bi...@billejones.com
Website: http://agent.interorealestate.com/BillJones/

-----Original Message-----
From: cabo...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cabo...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Clay
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 11:15 AM
To: caborico
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

[Dave Newberg]

When we were searching for our boat four years ago, there was a 1991
CR34 in Florida that was knocked off its stands onto its side during
a hurricane. Not sure of the extent of damage because we wrote it
off. Could be this boat?? I can't remember any more of the details.

If there is nothing wrong with this boat, somebody is going to get a
really great boat for a bargain price. Even

Dave
Cigano

[Doug]

This group is awsome. I had no idea I would get so much responce to
my question about the purchase of a Cabo Rico. Thank you all so
much! With the information give so far it seems only logical to look
for a 38. I have started my search this year and with the economy the
way it is, I am in no hurry to make the purchase. I prefer to pay
cash for the boat and I could use another year to add to my boat
purchase fund. When my fund matches the current value of a very nice
Cabo Rico I will make a serious offer. Until then, I will do my
research and keep an eye out. Again, thank all of you for you awsome
help. If anyone hears of a Cabo 34, 36 or 38 that is in great shape
and is a bargain in this market, please let me know.

Doug

> > Kent Narrows,Md.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[Cab...@aol.com]

I broke my wrist 3 weeks ago. No racing for 2 more weeks at least. But I did good the earlier part of the year. We normally start up the first of April. I may take the boat out for a quite run this weekend if the weather is calm.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

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A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!

[Cab...@aol.com]

How did you handle the steering console, etc.?

     

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Cab...@aol.com]

I did not remove anything, but may later on. My "fix" was to take out the caulking and drill holes and put in vinyl resin on a hot day, when it would flow good. It hardened up the plywood. I then re caulked. 

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Cab...@aol.com]

In a message dated 7/21/2009 2:15:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, clay...@gmail.com writes:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/Cabo-Rico--2078919/Ft.-Lauderdale/FL/United-States

That is a very, very good deal, someone needs to jump on it. Many brokers don't know what they are doing. A 34ft boat is a 34ft boat, right?

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Cab...@aol.com]

Great, that gives me courage. Thanks.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Leslie Owen]

Hi Breck.  Yes, a 34 foot boat is a 34 foot boat but don't forget with the bowsprit it becomes a 37 foot boat then if you add dinghy davits, it will soon need at least a 40-42 foot slip.  ; - ) 

 

We looked at this offer with shock but we also noted the same vessel seemed to be listed by two brokers on YachtWorld...one ad has pictures and that is what Clayton showed in his response...the other ad without pictures seems to have an "offer pending" just as of today.  Either there is something going on with the boat or there is some sort of hardship on the part of the owner to sell for that price.  Maybe someone got a steal.

 

with kind regards,

 

Leslie

 

Leslie Owen

SV "Tango" CR 34 Hull #2 1989
Kent Narrows, MD

[Cab...@aol.com]

Yes, What was I thinking? I need a 45ft slip to keep my boat in. My LOA with the dingy hanging off the back is about 45ft.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[LDCbarker]

Sorry To hear that Breck. I hope it heals quick.
Larry

Cab...@aol.com wrote:
> I broke my wrist 3 weeks ago. No racing for 2 more weeks at least. But
> I did good the earlier part of the year. We normally start up the
> first of April. I may take the boat out for a quite run this weekend
> if the weather is calm.
>
> Breck Caine CR 38 #19
>

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
> <http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823310x1201398722/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=JulystepsfooterNO62>*
>
> >

[LDCbarker]

Doug,
If you can give an idea of the budget you are working with it would help
everyone.
Larry

[Kale Gorham]

Doug, I bought my 38 a little over a year ago, as an estate sale. The boat was originaly priced in the high 60,s I belive 69,000. The boat had some issues as its a 1981 hull #59 . Most of the issues were from neglect, as the older owner couldnt keep her up. I purchased her for 51,000 now after working on her for a winter, I think fair value for this boat is in the mid- seventys, be patient, as there are buys out there. I just caught the family with a little over priced boat, and they were were losing the slip and didnt want to be hassled with it. Good luck with your search as you will get your dream boat.  Kale Gorham
 
> Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 14:47:13 -0700

> Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

> From: dwal...@tcsn.net
> To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

[Kale Gorham]

 Put your dinghy on the forward deck and remove the davits u have to fight fire with fire. Who needs a dinghy in a marina at a dock any way.

---

From: Cab...@aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:11:13 -0400

Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

[Kale Gorham]

B reck,  Keep your dinghy at home. Make your dinghy davits removable, or swing close and save yourself some money you don't need a dinghy at a slip, especially your home port.  Kale CR38 Private Dancer

 

---

From: Cab...@aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:11:13 -0400
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

[Doug]

Larry, regarding my budget for a Cabo Rico.. I looked at a 38 in
Maryland earlier this year that was priced at $174,000. I thought
seriously on making an offer because it had alot of equipment, was a
newer boat and was in extremily great condition. I felt it was beyond
what I wanted to spend at that time. This economy has me backing off
like most other people. I started to look for a less expensive Cabo
Rico and thus came my original post to this group inquiring about a
36. It seems like there will not be much of a difference in price
between the two lengths. With this knowledge, I would certainly lean
more toward the 38 but I would also consider a 34 or 36.. at a
cheaper price. As for my buget, again I refer to the economy.. I am
currently thinking I will use my boat cash and the next few months of
earnings to pay off my farm and gain some more security. I can then
save for the down payment on a boat and if all goes right I can make a
purchase later next year. Until then, I am not giving up the idea of
making an imediate purchase if the right deal comes along. Back to my
budget.. When the time is right (see above) I am willing to spend
upward of $150,000 for the right boat. I would prefer to keep that
down closer to $100,000. It gives me some hope to hear of some people
who have gotten great deals. With the continued slump, or should I
say dump, in the economy I would anticipate that some people will need
to get rid of their boats. Maybe I will find a great deal also that
will make it easy to delay paying off the farm and take the Cabo boat
plunge. As you can see, I have alot of options to sort out and time
will help with that.

Doug

> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

[Mickey Panayiotakis]

removing it?  Breck, you don't include the original email in your replies and I must admit my old brain gets confused sometimes :)

Y

[Mickey Panayiotakis]

There are some "deals" at the 50-70 range, but you'll be putting in at least half again that on materials and elbow grease.

a 1981 boat with teak decks will need a lot of work on the deck, and probably blister maintenance. (Mine's a 1980)

Y

[LDCbarker]

Doug,
Ok, that is a wide range but with reasonable expectations. Good luck.
Larry
Venteux
Hull 89 1984
www.freewebs.com/caborico

[Kale Gorham]

Mickey, I got lucky with the decks I hired the best surveyor in Tampa Bay area he gave a thumbs up with the decks as it was a major concern of mine, he flat told me they were in great shape, but what he did find is delaminating in the hull. The skin coat let loose from the balsa core, this let me negotiate the price 2,000 cheaper. I since repaired this problem the decks are solid and all teak is fare. but I know  in the future, I will most likely remove the teak. The previous owner kept the boat in top shape but let it go the last few years of his life. I just had all the decks resealed as the surveyor told me the biggest problem with teak decks is maintenance if u keep them up there is no reason to replace the decks I have taken out lots of screws and rebed them ,and have found the core to be  solid. I feel so fortunate that the deck gods were in my favor. Kale Gorham
 

---

From: svb...@gmail.com
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:26:42 -0400

[Cab...@aol.com]

It's not a problem at home port, most all the slips will take a 65ft boat. And I do just what you said when I am in transit.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Cab...@aol.com]

Sorry, I'll try to remember to put them in.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Alan Gluyas]

Hi Kale et al,

 

I am a bit concerned about your delamination in the hull, as this is not generally a problem in Cabo Ricos. Do you mean delamination of the hull or the balsa cored substrate of the decks? Technically, the “teak decks” are not actually the decks, the teak is just a non-skid cosmetic overlay. The problem with (most) teak decks is that most are fastened down with SS self tappers, which get moved by the natural expansion of the teak in wet/dry hot/cold cycles and then allow water to get into the balsa core of the actual deck. The best way to fit teak decks is by gluing them down without screws or by only using temporary screws with big washers between the planks and then removing these and filling the screwholes with glue afterward when caulking the seams. This is more time consuming than conventional bunged construction, so it is not usually done.

 

Cabo Rico hulls are not technically balsa cored at all, they are solid glass hulls with a balsa layer laminated inside for insulation purposes, although the core does add some stiffness. The balsa in the hull is only between the waterline and the sheer.

 

I remember someone on the web had a problem with an enormous blister on the keel a year or so ago, but it turned out to be a problem with a previous repair.

 

In general, the only construction problems I have found with the Cabo Rico 38’s are:

 

• Decks and cockpit soles that have become damaged from water ingress
• Cracks at the forward corner of the cabin at deck level from hull flexing – it is a natural hard spot
• Cracks in the foredeck around the staysail boom pedestal on integral bowsprit boats ( post about 1989?)
• Wet balsa in the foredecks from windlass penetrations
• The same problem around the portlights in the cabin sides.
• Water leaks from chainplates (or through some other capping rail penetration or fastening) and portlight leaks.

 

All the water in balsa problems can be found by tapping the hull with a hard plastic hammer and intelligent use of a moisture meter ( which I find of little real use in underwater hull surveys, by the way).

Fixing badly water damaged decks can be very expensive, whether you have it done professionally or do it yourself, if you put any value on your own time. I understand that in the US, stripping teak decks, removing the outer glass layer and rebuilding the decks can cost over $25,000, sometimes much more. Yow.

 

Tapping teak decks with a hammer is not as definitive as tapping glass laminate – there are other signs to look for and any teak deck vessel should be looked at by a competent marine surveyor, WITH A KNOWLEDGE OF TEAK DECKS.

 

Cheers Al

 

"Brite Star" Cabo Rico 38 #82

Mandurah Western Australia

.

---

</html

[Charlie Purdum]

We purchased a CR 34 (hull number 33) which had a severe foredeck moisture problem. Moisture readings were off the scale and the area where the coach roof meets the deck had cracks around entire perimeter. Repairs costing 15k were done to correct the problem; over 18" of the foredeck was opened up to lay in rove mat and re-gel coated. The other areas were opened up 4" on either side of the crack, rove mat was glassed in place and re-gel coated to repair the cracks. 

From the attached picture it appears the fiberglas fibers (chop) were sprayed without resin when the boat was built leaving a dry void which cracked. Moisture penetrated this area and rotted the plywood. Fortunately I saw this problem after the survey and the selling price was adjusted accordingly. The survey was done in sub-freezing temps so the moisture readings were not accurate. The final step will be to remold the non-skid and awlgrip the topsides which will also take care of the normal hairline cracks which occur on a 14 year old boat.

To expand on the earlier threads on the 34's, 36's and 38's, after one year of ownership we have not regretted our purchase decision one minute. She is the driest boat we've owned in 25 years which is a tribute to her clipper design. We sailed her in 20k-24k of breeze and 3-4 foot seas last week for over 4 hours without any grey water on deck. Once sails are properly set, she steers herself. I have now lived aboard for over 2 months and would change very little.

Charlie Purdum

CR 34-033, Arriba

Stonington, CT

email:  charle...@comcast.net

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[Alan Gluyas]

Hi Charlie

 

That is very good information and an interesting picture. It certainly looks as through there was very little resin in there. Cracks in gel coat around cabin edges is quite common in lots of boats but it is not normally a major structural issue.

 

I am in the process of re-coating Brite Star’s decks with a Kiwi product called No Slip or Don’t Slip, which is a textured water based acrylic coating applied with a wide brush and rolled with a “goopy” roller to raise peaks in the thick coating. It is very effective as a non skid and is renewable (it is supposed to last up to 10 years with moderate use.

 

Cheers

 

Alan

 

"Brite Star" Cabo Rico 38 #82

Mandurah Western Australia

 

 

[Charlie Purdum]

Alan,

Thanks for the lead on the non-skid material. We are looking at another product (http://www.epoxyworks.com/22/pdf/Ew22_Nonskid.pdf) but I'm sure the labor to do this system will make it cost-prohibitive.

Charlie Purdum

CR 34-033, Arriba

Stonington, CT

email:  charle...@comcast.net

[norskm...@aol.com]

Doug,

In my opinion, the equipment that you should consider should not include elecronics.  If the electronics are over 6 months old, they are obsolete.  Grounding for a single side band is good but the radio itself is not.  Good stuff to look for are windvanes, roller furling, dinghy davits, chain rodes, sail inventories (if fairly new), no teak decks (they will have to be removed someday because of the screw holes), mechanical boom vanges, interior lights, alternator size, engine hours, generator/seperate charging systems, fresh water tank size, fuel tank size, holding tank size, propeller type, canvas work, hull and deck soundness and of course the bright work that needs to be done.  I guess what I am trying to say is that you need to look at the equipment that is kind of timeless.  Stuff that will last for years and does not change with each passing day.  I don't think you will ever find that perfect boat.  You will change the boat you finally buy.  Save a little (Lot!!!!!!) of extra money to personalize your craft!  We have all done it and spent more money than we would like to admit!

John

SV Papillon  CR 38 - #24

-----Original Message-----
From: Doug <dwal...@tcsn.net>
To: caborico <cabo...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2009 10:55 am
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

Larry, regarding my budget for a Cabo Rico..  I looked at a 38 in
Maryland earlier this year that was priced at $174,000.  I thought
seriously on making an offer because it had alot of equipment, was a
newer boat and was in extremily great condition.  I felt it was beyond
what I wanted to spend at that time.  This economy has me backing off
like most other people.  I started to look for a less expensive Cabo
Rico and thus came my original post to this group inquiring about a
36.  It seems like there will not be much of a difference in price
between the two lengths.  With this knowledge, I would certainly lean
more toward the 38 but I would also consider a 34 or 36..  at a
cheaper price.  As for my buget, again I refer to the economy..  I am
currently thinking I will use my boat cash and the next few months of
earnings to pay off my farm and gain some more security.  I can then
save for the down payment on a boat and if all goes right I can make a
purchase later next year.  Until then, I am not giving up the idea of
making an imediate purchase if the right deal comes along.  Back to my
budget..  When the time is right (see above) I am willing to spend
upward of $150,000 for the right boat.  I would prefer to keep that
down closer to $100,000.  It gives me some hope to hear of some people
who have gotten great deals.  With the continued slump, or should I
say dump, in the economy I would anticipate that some people will need
to get rid of their boats.  Maybe I will find a great deal also that
will make it easy to delay paying off the farm and take the Cabo boat
plunge.  As you can see,  I have alot of options to sort out and time
will help with that.

Doug

On Jul 22, 7:09 am, LDCbarker <ldcbar...@aol.com> wrote:
> Doug,
> If you can give an idea of the budget you are working with it would help
> everyone.
> Larry
>
>
>
> Doug wrote:
> > This group is awsome.  I had no idea I would get so much responce to
> > my question about the purchase of a Cabo Rico.  Thank you all so
> > much!  With the information give so far it seems only logical to look
> > for a 38.  I have started my search this year and with the economy the
> > way it is, I am in no hurry to make the purchase.  I prefer to pay
> > cash for the boat and I could use another year to add to my boat
> > purchase fund.  When my fund matches the current value of a very nice
> > Cabo Rico I will make a serious offer.  Until then, I will do my
> > research and keep an eye out.  Again, thank all of you for you awsome
> > help.  If anyone hears of a Cabo 34, 36 or 38 that is in great shape
> > and is a bargain in this market, please let me know.
>
> > Doug
>
> > On Jul 21, 11:58 am, Dave Newberg <sv.cig...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> When we were searching for our boat four years ago, there was a 1991  
> >> CR34 in Florida that was knocked off its stands onto its side during  
> >> a hurricane. Not sure of the extent of damage because we wrote it  
> >> off. Could be this boat?? I can't remember any more of the details.
>
> >> If there is nothing wrong with this boat, somebody is going to get a  
> >> really great boat for a bargain price. Even
>
> >> Dave
> >> Cigano
>
> >> On Jul 21, 2009, at 1:15 PM, Clay wrote:
>
> >>> As an owner of a 34'..I found this a bit dishartening to find.....hope
> >>> this is a mistake(price)..or there is something seriously wrong with
> >>> this boat...
>
> >>>http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/Cabo-Rico--2078919/Ft.-

---

One-click access to hundreds of free games. Get the Games.com Toolbar.

[Mickey Panayiotakis]

John

I agree, but I do want to say about electronics that just because there's a new device every six months, said device does not render installed electronics obsolete:  My wind instruments are 30 years old and still going.  I'm probably going to replace them because it's an opportune time since I've pulled the mast.  I replaced my autohelm, speed and depth  about three years go…they were also going strong, and I do not think my existing instruments are obsolete.  BTW, after 30 years, I'm also replacing standing rigging, taking a good look at vangs/davits/book brakes, and all the other things that lasts years and does not change with each passing day.

that said, electronics do die and unless there's a fairly recent set of instruments, they don't add much value.  It's nice to know that the instruments are only 6 months/years old so not likely to fail for another 20 years.  But overall if you want to be a by-the-wire sailor, you'll want to customize your electronics.  And if you want to be traditional, you just want something that works, most of the time. 

I was chatting with an old-timey sailor a few years back; his take:  for the amount of money people spend these days on electronics, he could go sailing for two years.  

Y

[dennis.w...@virgin.net]

Agree totally.

I looked at several 38's before purchasing #62 and saw no signs of any delamination in hull. Have also had extensive discussions with Cabo Rico staff and at no time was there any mention of this, simply don't believe delamination just look at the hull structure it speaks for itself.

Think i have had all the other issues although teak deck work is not as bad as i was led to believe, but its a slow process removing screws, any wet balsa and back filling with epoxy. Am a glutton for punishment and i will keep the teak decks for now. There just gorgious when cleaned and finished with natural SEMCO sealant.

The deck safety rail stancions were a problem for me. Leaking though the bases. They need rebedding with good solid backing plates. Can be difficult to gain access but i was stripping cabin and teak anyway as part on an internal refurb (prefer wood that looks like wood and not plastic). Also i prefer use of epoxy in bedding permanent deck fittings rather than 5200.

Having followed the discussion lines i am surprised that nobody has mentioned rudders. I know there is no history of problems but on boats of this age i would expect to see some surface pitting on the SS stock and the bottom support. If there is then it has to be qualified as soon as possible even if it means dropping and splitting. 

Dennis

Paloma #62 now Preston Boat Yard, Lanchashire, UK. (where it rains every day!!!)

 

Jul 22, 2009 09:35:48 PM, cabo...@googlegroups.com wrote:

Hi Kale et al,

 

I am a bit concerned about your delamination in the hull, as this is not generally a problem in Cabo Ricos. Do you mean delamination of the hull or the balsa cored substrate of the decks? Technically, the “teak decks” are not actually the decks, the teak is just a non-skid cosmetic overlay. The problem with (most) teak decks is that most are fastened down with SS self tappers, which get moved by the natural expansion of the teak in wet/dry hot/cold cycles and then allow water to get into the balsa core of the actual deck. The best way to fit teak decks is by gluing them down without screws or by only using temporary screws with big washers between the planks and then removing these and filling the screwholes with glue afterward when caulking the seams. This is more time consuming than conventional bunged construction, so it is not usually done.

 

Cabo Rico hulls are not technically balsa cored at all, they are solid glass hulls with a balsa layer laminated inside for insulation purposes, although the core does add some stiffness. The balsa in the hull is only between the waterline and the sheer.

 

I remember someone on the web had a problem with an enormous blister on the keel a year or so ago, but it turned out to be a problem with a previous repair.

 

In general, the only construction problems I have found with the Cabo Rico 38’s are:

 

• Decks     and cockpit soles that have become damaged from water ingress
• Cracks     at the forward corner of the cabin at deck level from hull flexing –     it is a natural hard spot
• Cracks     in the foredeck around the staysail boom pedestal on integral bowsprit     boats ( post about 1989?)
• Wet     balsa in the foredecks from windlass penetrations
• The     same problem around the portlights in the cabin sides.
• Water     leaks from chainplates (or through some other capping rail penetration or     fastening) and portlight leaks.

 

All the water in balsa problems can be found by tapping the hull with a hard plastic hammer and intelligent use of a moisture meter ( which I find of little real use in underwater hull surveys, by the way).

Fixing badly water damaged decks can be very expensive, whether you have it done professionally or do it yourself, if you put any value on your own time. I understand that in the US, stripping teak decks, removing the outer glass layer and rebuilding the decks can cost over $25,000, sometimes much more. Yow.

 

Tapping teak decks with a hammer is not as definitive as tapping glass laminate – there are other signs to look for and any teak deck vessel should be looked at by a competent marine surveyor, WITH A KNOWLEDGE OF TEAK DECKS.

 

Cheers Al

 

"Brite Star" Cabo Rico 38 #82

Mandurah Western Australia

.

---

From: cabo...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cabo...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kale Gorham

Sent: Thursday, 23 July 2009 3:42 AM
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

 

Mickey, I got lucky with the decks I hired the best surveyor in Tampa Bay area he gave a thumbs up with the decks as it was a major concern of mine, he flat told me they were in great shape, but what he did find is delaminating in the hull. The skin coat let loose from the balsa core, this let me negotiate the price 2,000 cheaper. I since repaired this problem the decks are solid and all teak is fare. but I know  in the future, I will most likely remove the teak. The previous owner kept the boat in top shape but let it go the last few years of his life. I just had all the decks resealed as the surveyor told me the biggest problem with teak decks is maintenance if u keep them up there is no reason to replace the decks I have taken out lots of screws and rebed them ,and have found the core to be  solid. I feel so fortunate that the deck gods were in my favor. Kale Gorham
 

---

From: svb...@gmail.com
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:26:42 -0400

There are some "deals" at the 50-70 range, but you'll be putting in at least half again that on materials and elbow grease.

 

a 1981 boat with teak decks will need a lot of work on the deck, and probably blister maintenance. (Mine's a 1980)

Y

 

On Jul 22, 2009, at 11:14 AM, Kale Gorham wrote:

 

Doug, I bought my 38 a little over a year ago, as an estate sale. The boat was originaly priced in the high 60,s I belive 69,000. The boat had some issues as its a 1981 hull #59 . Most of the issues were from neglect, as the older owner couldnt keep her up. I purchased her for 51,000 now after working on her for a winter, I think fair value for this boat is in the mid- seventys, be patient, as there are buys out there. I just caught the family with a little over priced boat, and they were were losing the slip and didnt want to be hassled with it. Good luck with your search as you will get your dream boat.  Kale Gorham 
 
> Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 14:47:13 -0700

> Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

> From: dwal...@tcsn.net
> To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

 

</html

[Mickey Panayiotakis]

Alan, another problematically leaky area (on my boat at least) was the port site deck fills.  These leaked into the icebox/fridge insulation, which was open-cell foam.  This retained water for many years damaging all surrounding bulkheads.  Icebox/fridge had to be lifted, bulkheads replaced, and fridge with insulation re-fitted.  This, plus some level of osmotic blistering on older boats, I'd say are the only two "big" items not on your list.

Dennis, I'd think leaky stanchion basis, genoa tracks, and pretty much anything that's been screwed onto or through the deck is par for the course after a number of years.  Rebedding is part of maintenance (unless you epoxy everything as you seem to prefer :).  Good point that older boats at least should have  backing plates on the stanchion bases.

I think there's someone lurking around this list that's done some rudder work (Breck, is that you?).  I've gotten surface pitting on the bottom support but not the stock.   I do plan on removing the rudder and scratching my head about what to do thereafter (splitting, more head scratching)…one of these years.  I've heard no reports of rudder issues though.   I wonder if CR will manufacture me a new rudder…that may be the simplest and/or cheapest solution.

mickey

[ldcb...@aol.com]

It seems I remember some years back someone having Cabo Rico make a new rudder. I vaguely remember there was a price posted but can't quite remember what it was. Most likely in the archives on the old list.
Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: Mickey Panayiotakis <svb...@gmail.com>
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, Jul 23, 2009 8:03 am
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

Alan, another problematically leaky area (on my boat at least) was the port site deck fills.  These leaked into the icebox/fridge insulation, which was open-cell foam.  This retained water for many years damaging all surrounding bulkheads.  Icebox/fridge had to be lifted, bulkheads replaced, and fridge with insulation re-fitted.  This, plus some level of osmotic blistering on older boats, I'd say are the only two "big" items not on your list.

Dennis, I'd think leaky stanchion basis, genoa tracks, and pretty much anything that's been screwed onto or through the deck is par for the course after a number of years.  Rebedding is part of maintenance (unless you epoxy everything as you seem to prefer :).  Good point that older boats at least should have  backing plates on the stanchion bases.

I think there's someone lurking around this list that's done some rudder=2 0work (Breck, is that you?).  I've gotten surface pitting on the bottom support but not the stock.   I do plan on removing the rudder and scratching my head about what to do thereafter (splitting, more head scratching)…one of these years.  I've heard no reports of rudder issues though.   I wonder if CR will manufacture me a new rudder…that may be the simplest and/or cheapest solution.

mickey

On Jul 23, 2009, at 6:16 AM, dennis.w...@virgin.net wrote:

Agree totally.

I looked at several 38's before purchasing #62 and saw no signs of any delamination in hull. Have also had extensive discussions with Cabo Rico staff and at no time was there any mention of this, simply don't believe delamination just look at the hull structure it speaks for itself.

Think i have had all the other issues although teak deck work is not as bad as i was led to believe, but its a slow process removing screws, any wet balsa and back filling with epoxy. Am a glutton for punishment and i will keep the teak decks for now. There just gorgious when cleaned and finished with natural SEMCO sealant.

The deck safety rail stancions were a problem for me. Leaking though the bases. They need rebedding with good solid backing plates. Can be difficult to gain access but i was stripping cabin and teak anyway as part on an internal refurb (prefer wood that looks like wood and not plastic). Also i prefer use of epoxy in bedding permanent deck fittings rather than 5200.

Having followed the discussion lines i am surprised that nobody has mentioned rudders. I know there is no history of problems but on boats of this age i would expect to see some surface pitting on the SS stock and the bottom support. If there is then it has to be qualified as soon as possible even if it means dropping and splitting. 

Dennis

Paloma #62 now Prest on Boat Yard, Lanchashire, UK. (where it rains every day!!!)

 

Jul 22, 2009 09:35:48 PM, cabo...@googlegroups.com wrote:

Hi Kale et al,

 

I am a bit concerned about your delamination in the hull, as this is not generally a problem in Cabo Ricos. Do you mean delamination of the hull or the balsa cored substrate of the decks? Technically, the “teak decks” are not actually the decks, the teak is just a non-skid cosmetic overlay. The problem with=2 0(most) teak decks is that most are fastened down with SS self tappers, which get moved by the natural expansion of the teak in wet/dry hot/cold cycles and then allow water to get into the balsa core of the actual deck. The best way to fit teak decks is by gluing them down without screws or by only using temporary screws with big washers between the planks and then removing these and filling the screwholes with glue afterward when caulking the seams. This is more time consuming than conventional bunged construction, so it is not usually done.

 

Cabo Rico hulls are not technically balsa cored at all, they are solid glass hulls with a balsa layer laminated inside for insulation purposes, although the core does add some stiffness. The balsa in the hull is only between the waterline and the sheer.

 

I remember someone on the web had a problem with an enormous blister on the keel a year or so ago, but it turned out to be a problem with a previous repair.

 

In general, the only construction problems I have found with the Cabo Rico 38’s are:

 

• Decks     and cockpit soles that have become damaged from water ingress

• Cracks     at the20forward corner of the cabin at deck level from hull flexing –     it is a natural hard spot

• Cracks     in the foredeck around the staysail boom pedestal on integral bowsprit     boats ( post about 1989?)
• Wet     balsa in the foredecks from windlass penetrations
• The     same problem around the portlights in the cabin sides.
• Water     leaks from chainplates (or through some other capping rail penetration or     fastening) and portlight leaks.

 

All the water in balsa problems can be found by tapping the hull with a hard plastic hammer and intelligent use of a moisture meter ( which I find of little real use in underwater hull surveys, by the way).

Fixing badly water damaged decks can be very expensive, whether you have it done professionally or do it yourself, if you put any value on your own time. I understand that in the US, stripping teak decks, removing the outer glass layer and rebuilding the decks can cost over $25,000, sometimes much more. Yow.

 

Tapping teak decks with a hammer is not as definitive as tapping glass laminate – there are other signs to look for and any teak deck ves sel should be looked at by a competent marine surveyor, WITH A KNOWLEDGE OF TEAK DECKS.

 

Cheers Al

 

"Brite Star" Cabo Rico 38 #82

Mandurah Western Australia

.

< hr align="center" size="2" width="100%">

From: cabo...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cabo...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kale Gorham
Sent: Thursday, 23 July 2009 3:42 AM
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

 

Mickey, I got lucky with the decks I hired the best surveyor in Tampa Bay area he gave a thumbs up with the decks as it was a major concern of mine, he flat told me they were in great shape, but what he did find is delaminating in the hull. The skin coat let loose from the balsa core, this let me negotiate the price 2,000 cheaper. I since repaired this problem the decks are solid and all teak is fare. but I know  in the future, I will most likely remove the teak. The previous owner kept the boat in top shape but let it go the last few years of his life. I just had all the decks resealed as the surveyor told me the biggest problem with teak decks is maintenance if u keep them up there is no reason to replace the decks I have taken out lots of screws and rebed them ,and have found the core to be  solid. I feel so fortunate that the deck gods were in my favor. Kale Gorham
 

---

From:< span class="Apple-converted-space"> svb...@gmail.com

> > CR34 in&n bsp;Florida that was knocked off its stands onto its side during  

> > a hurricane. Not sure of the extent of damage because we wrote it  
> > off. Could be this boat?? I can't remember any more of the details.
> >
> > If there is nothing wrong with this boat, somebody is going to get a  
> > really great boat for a bargain price. Even
> >
> > Dave
> > Cigano
> >
> > On Jul 21, 2009, at 1:15 PM, Clay wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > As an owner of a 34'..I found this a bit dishartening to find.....hope
> > > this is a mistake(price)..or there is something seriously wrong with
> > > this boat...
> >
> > >http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/Cabo-Rico--2078919/Ft.-
> > > Lauderdale/FL/United-States
> >
> > > Regards,
> >
> > > Clay
> > > s/v 'Tango'
> > > Kent Narrows,Md.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
> 

 

</html

---

Get ready to win! You could score awesome prizes all summer long on AOL.

[alangluyas]

I would not have any worries about replacing a rudder on the CR38. I don’t know how the old one is made, although they are normally described as “solid fiberglass”, which is unlikely. If I was building a new one I would just make up a new stock from solid 316L round bar (or a zinc free bronze, if I could find any) with 3 really mighty tangs properly welded on the back. I would then build up the blade from marine ply, fitted around the tangs until they were covered and then build up the thickness with ply before shaping it with a 7 inch sander and epoxy glassing it. Easy.

 

I did study Mickeys photos on stripping the icebox out of his boat – very humbling to see and a very useful tool for anyone else pulling their boats apart.

 

I am not sure about bedding things on epoxy – it is a good idea until any movement develops and then there is no seal at all. 5200 is flexible enough so that it does not break easily, if it is applied to clean substrates. Sometime that is its biggest problem – you can’t get it off! I certainly have not managed to get most of my portlights off!

 

Cheers

 

Al

 

"Brite Star" Cabo Rico 38 #82
Mandurah Western Australia

 

 

[Rene LaMorelle]

I got a price for a new rudder for our CR-34 of $4000.00   Rene' & Lori CR-34 Selkie --- On Thu, 7/23/09, ldcb...@aol.com <ldcb...@aol.com> wrote:

[dennis.w...@virgin.net]

browsing the net recently i can recall seeing a US based company who do make replacement rudders for older boats and the 38 was one of those listed. googling it should get me back there just can't recall who it was. I can recall thinking that the price was not unreasonable compared with the efforts involved in any repair.

#62 Dennis

[dennis.w...@virgin.net]

Not that i need a new rudder but site was NEWRUDDERS.COM a flodida based company.

Dennis

Jul 23, 2009 09:08:51 AM, cabo...@googlegroups.com wrote:

I got a price for a new rudder for our CR-34 of $4000.00   Rene' & Lori CR-34 Selkie --- On Thu, 7/23/09, ldcb...@aol.com <ldcb...@aol.com> wrote:

From: ldcb...@aol.com <ldcb...@aol.com> Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

To: cabo...@googlegroups.com Date: Thursday, July 23, 2009, 12:31 AM

[Kale Gorham]

Hi Alan I had 3 large areas on  my starboard side that the skin coat had come separated this was all below the water line. i got hold of Freddy at cabo rico and he said he never heard of this problem before in a cr hull. I thought I had water intrusion but when I drilled exploratory holes in all the voids with a 2 inc hole saw I saw the balsa was in pristine condition. The skin coat just let loose from the balsa about a 1/8" gap. LOoked like the resin never got activated,this is apparently a problem since the day she was built. So I just made a grid pattern over the voids the largest was 3x4ft, the grid was 8 inch squares and every corner we drilled 1/2" holes, then I used vinyl ester resin with a pump and started to fill up the lowest holes first till resin came out the ones above, then we taped off the lower holes, and started on the next ones up . We did this process till the void was completely filled. The other way to fix the problem is take a die grinder and cut out all loole skin then relaminate as cabo rico were good enough to give me full laminate scheduel for this hull #59. I decided to do what I did, and figured if it is still loose I can always cut them out. This is not a structural problem it was only confined to the outer skin coat. I plan to haul the boat this fall and check them out as I have a few other things I want to do to her. Hey have a good day Kale
 

---

From: alang...@iinet.net.au

To: cabo...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [caborico] Re: I am looking to purchase a Cabo Rico

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 09:30:12 +0800

[Kale Gorham]

I had a couple of large blisters on my rudder and considered to replace it. I got hold of Foss Foam I belive in Tampa or there abouts, and yes they gave me a quote of several thousand dollars. So i decided to cut open the bottom end of my rudder as it was dripping water and my exploratory holes pulled out rotten wood, I took a die grinder and opend the bottom twelve inches, scraped out all the rotton wood and saw a stainless stees plate,it looked like the day it was put in so I just made a slurrey of vinylester resin and choped mat and filled the void up shaped the patch and fared it. Pretty much, what I was told all rudders leak especialy old ones. If I was going to replacethe rudder I will fabricate a stainless steel one and be done with it. Kale#59

 

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From: alang...@iinet.net.au
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [caborico] New rudder
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 20:44:51 +0800

[alangluyas]

Hi Kale

 

Thanks for the info – sounds like a thorough job. Like Freddy, I haven’t heard of this with Cabo Rico’s before. I did a similar fix to you with my foredeck when I fitted the new electric windlass. The foredeck was quite wet around the old manual windlass through bolts, so when I jig sawed out the 4” chain hole and the 3/8” bolt holes for the new one I raked out all the wet balsa with a bent nail in a drill and taped up the holes down below. I fitted a pvc ring (from old water pipe) in the big hole and taped everything up apart from the two holes furthest apart on deck and then squirted in resin with a syringe until it came out the other side. I redriilled the 3/8” holes and fitted the windlass and now have a very solid deck.

 

Cheers

 

Al

 

"Brite Star" Cabo Rico 38 #82
Mandurah Western Australia

 

 

 

 

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[alangluyas]

Kale

 

I have built two large steel sailboats, including the rudders. I would not do a stainless one, although I might consider mild steel. It is not hard to shape steel if you know how, but stainless would be difficult. Stainless is hard to cut, hard to weld and hard to shape. It is also unpredictable stuff to live with.

 

In mild steel you could probably make one that was indistinguishable from glass until you tapped it with a hammer. I am not sure it would weigh any more than glass either.

 

Interesting that the Cabo Rico rudders have a wooden core – I did not know that. It is very difficult to stop water from getting into a glass rudder around the stock and one thing that stainless does not like is being wet and deprived of oxygen – salt water alone is no problem as long as the stainless can form a passivating oxide layer on the surface.

 

From my experience, even with that problem, most failures with glass/stainless stocked rudders is because of shoddy workmanship or insufficient reinforcing in the blade.

 

“May your rudder never fall off” (an old Australian saying I just invented).

 

Cheers

 

Al

 

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[Kale Gorham]

Thanks ,Allen for the tip. I have a full machine shop,and we do large amount of fiberglass work also, so Im not intimediated by these problems. The rudder I saw in a yard had a blade welded to a ss shaft,then he had tangs welded from shaft out to the blade. This was on a lage power boat , I wonder if this type of rudder would be feasable for a sail boat? Any thoughts on that one? Since I see you have extensive knowledge building boats. Thanks Kale

 

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From: alang...@iinet.net.au
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [caborico] Re: New rudder
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 22:11:47 +0800

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[alangluyas]

Yep, don’t do it. A sailboat rudder needs to be a foil section or you just won’t sail anywhere. Even power boat rudders don’t work very well when they are flat. Read Dave Gerrs book “The Nature of Boats”, which is very good on rudders.

 

The last big steel rudder I built, I used a 3” pipe for the stock and I welded foil shaped formers back from that – I put plenty of curve in the trailing edge of the blade and welded the blade sides to the pipe just behind the centerline of the pipe (to get a smooth flow) then used heavy clamps to pull the back edges of the plate (3/16” from memory) together. The final shape was very pretty. If you are interested I can post a picture sometime.

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[Kale Gorham]

Cool beans Alan, I thought there might be something in the foil shape of the rudder as I have never seen a flat one on a sail boat before yes I would like to see the one u made. As i'm interested in making one, opposed to buying one. Especially since I own the tools to fabricate one. 3/16'' sounds about right for skin.  I think my rudder will be servicable for maybe a couple of years yet , I'll keep a close watch on it.  Thanks Alan   Kale

 

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From: alang...@iinet.net.au
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [caborico] Re: New rudder

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 23:03:45 +0800

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[Mickey Panayiotakis]

This list rocks.

Kale, what's your boat's vintage?

Y

[Kale Gorham]

Mickey,I have a 38, hull #59 ,1981.
 

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From: svb...@gmail.com
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [caborico] Re: New rudder
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 00:24:48 -0400

[curtis]

 

 

Consider also stripping the bottom paint  and repairing your present rudder and then make a fiberglass mold from it. Last year I watched a glass guy make a mold from a large Boston Whaler to make a new bow for a seriously smashed one. I’ll bet if very clever you could build a new rudder on your old rudder post without even removing it? I watched newrudder.com build a rudder. Didn’t look like rocket science.

 

 Paul

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[Kale Gorham]

Alan, I'm sorry the rudder has a foam core. When I drilled my exploratory hole, at the bottom of  the rudder, black sludge material came out. It looked like balsa or some type of wood but after I opened the rudder  up it was all foam. Sorry about misleading  u, or any one else. I stand corrected. Kale 

 

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From: alang...@iinet.net.au
To: cabo...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [caborico] Re: New rudder
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 22:11:47 +0800

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[Mickey Panayiotakis]

Good news. Thanks Kale

[Cab...@aol.com]

I have found that on the older boat you have to redo all penetration on the boat.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

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[Cab...@aol.com]

Hi! I have done a lot of work on my rudder. Including removing it and taking measurements and pictures to have a new one built. When I first got the boat in '94 the rudder was full of water and rotten foam and many blisters. Where the blisters were I cut out 1 1/2" holes got all the foam out, ground out the blisters. Dried it good, patched up most of the holes., filled it with 2 part foam, patched again and gave it two more layers of glass. I noticed when I was getting the foam out that there was a large clump of harden epoxy inside? When I was putting in an auto pilot I figured out what had happened. The boat was backed into something and the rudder was bent 15 degrees to one side. Oh well! A couple years ago I took the rudder out to take measurments of it and do some other work, bottom job, new coupling, cutlass bearing, shaft, Max prop. I had to rework the tailpiece and rudder and shorten the shaft for the Max prop to fit. The rudder was holding up fine, but I still want a new one. Maybe we can get a price break if we buy several and pick them up in Ft. Lauderdale? Anyone interested?   

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

[Cab...@aol.com]

Where did you get that price? I got prices from $850 to $1500 depending on the reuse of the shaft that is there.

 

Breck Caine CR 38 #19