[C320-list] Maxwell 500 Anchor windlass maint question

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Scott Westwood

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Jan 22, 2017, 1:36:22 PM1/22/17
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 Two questions:
1. Has anybody changed the anchor windlass drum from line only to a combination line and Chain?  If so any details out there?2. Any videos or how to do maint on it?  I see about changing oil and/or lubing.
I am just starting to dig into this since it has not been used much in 10 years. (Previous owner never used it in 8 years).  It works fine but I want to help it live longer.  May want to use it more if I beef up the ground tackle.
thoughts?
Thanks,
Scott Westwood scottw...@bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538    C (919)-618-7185

Graeme Clark

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Jan 22, 2017, 2:11:11 PM1/22/17
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I've removed the windlass and motor from the boat and bought all the parts to renew the oil seals having already fixed a problem with the motor brushes but haven't started that job yet!
I looked into a replacement drum. Maxwell aren't very forthcoming but I get the impression you'd have to get a local machine shop to turn a new longer shaft as I don't think maxwell make the retrofit any more for our model
But in theory looking at the way it's all put together I think you could buy any chain/line wheel/drum and a decent machine shop should be able to make a shaft accordingly
Ask me again in3 months time!
Graeme
#366, 1996

Sent from mobile: please excuse typos etc.!

Greg Flanagan

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Jan 22, 2017, 2:27:47 PM1/22/17
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What's your hull number?

Thanks,

Greg Flanagan
Hoop Dancer #1076
Sidney, BC

Scott Thompson

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Jan 22, 2017, 2:34:18 PM1/22/17
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Graeme: Since you seem to have gotten into the guts of the motor I'm
wondering about two things. First, is it possible to remove the motor
without removing the entire unit? In case it matters I have cut off the
fiberglass panel that normally blocks access and seems to serve no
purpose, per pictures from Jeff Hare. (I did this in order to facilitate
installation of a washdown pump.)

Second, Are there any tips about servicing the motor? Last time I was in
there it seemed as if the studs on which the power cables mount were a
bit loose. That is, they seemed to turn a bit when I torqued the nut
securing the cables to the studs. It looked like I would have to take
the motor apart to tighten them.

Scott

Scott Thompson

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Jan 22, 2017, 2:47:32 PM1/22/17
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I have never done the conversion but I have the vw500 model with the
chainwheel, and based on that I think that there are differences between
the vc500 and the vw500 other than just the shaft and chainwheel. The
vw500 model has a clutch nut and two clutch cones -- one keyed to the
shaft -- that help lock the chainwheel to the shaft when pressure is
applied by tightening the clutch nut. (It also has a chain stripper,
although that probably is not needed on the 320 installation given the
nonstandards installation, which allows the chain to fall off by
gravity.) None of those parts are present in the vc500 model. My
recollection is that you can find blow up parts diagrams and/or manuals
on the c320 website. I know I uploaded a scan of the vw500 manual at one
time.

Scott Thompson

On 1/22/2017 2:11 PM, Graeme Clark wrote:

Graeme Clark

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Jan 22, 2017, 3:19:55 PM1/22/17
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This link shows a photo of the inside of the rear cap of the dis-assembled motor

http://tinypic.com/r/dcvqk7/9 <http://tinypic.com/r/dcvqk7/9>

You will see there are housings for four trapezoidal shaped carbon brushes, which are fitted as two pairs. Each brush has a spring behind it which keeps them in contact with the rotor as they wear (the issue I had was that my brushes were jamming in the plastic housing - whether they has somehow increased in size* since new I don't know, but I just rubbed the edges on some 120grit paper until they would slide easily in the housing again.

As you can see the brushes are paired, and where the two wires from the brushes join, that is the rear (or rather the ‘inside’) of the terminal that projects from the back of the motor housing to which the cables attach.

If you do take it apart be careful as one of those terminals (the positive one) has an insulating washer that passes right through the cap itself so prevent any contact between it and the metal of the motor which is of course ‘ground’ or negative.

Putting it back together was a nightmare at first because you cant easily hold four brushes in position while you locate the rotor shaft into it’s bearing in the end cap. In the end I found it easier to withdraw the rotor, position the end cap correctly on the rotor and then mate the rotor/end-cap assembly with the rest of the motor case.

On the boat I was unable to remove the motor on its own without removing the entire windlass. I’m not saying it isn't possible with some fancy tool or other, but I didn't have room to access the two bolts that attach the motor to the windlass.

The current manual on the Maxwell site for the VC500 and VW500 is not the same as my windlass which is - I think - simply called a Maxwell 500. The more recent models seem to have a more complex gearbox, whereas the original 500 is a simple worm drive gear arrangement. I don't know if the shaft diameters are different.

I hope to do the disassembly and oil seal replacement in the next week or two and will take plenty of photos as I do so. I will then write an article for the website.

It did occur to me to replace the bearings at the same time, but when I thought about it I realised that the motor doesn't turn very fast and it’s total operating revolutions in over 20 years is probably less than (for example) an electric drill or (34000 rpm) router does in in a week! The bearings really should be OK, but I will look when I disassemble it and they are cheap enough to buy if they do need replacing.

By the way, maxwell being a NZ company, all parts are metric!

Hope this helps

Graeme

*I did have gear oil leaking (which is why I’m replacing oil seals), and wondered f that has contacted the brushes and caused them to swell
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I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when convenient!





Scott Thompson

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Jan 22, 2017, 3:33:09 PM1/22/17
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FWIW, my 1999 boat (hull 653) has the VW500 Windlass with chainwheel and
it also has a simple worm gear drive. I believe this drive is identical
to the VC500 except that it has a longer drive shaft to accommodate the
chainwheel and associated extra parts.

Scott

Scott Westwood

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Jan 22, 2017, 4:31:21 PM1/22/17
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Hull 517. '98.  I will try to find the model number but I couldn't easily see it at first/short glance.  I have the v-berth bottom board off and I will try to see it.  I also have an inspection hole under the chain locker lid but I couldn't see a model number.  I will look again. 
Thanks,
Scott Westwood scottw...@bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538    C (919)-618-7185

Warren Updike

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Jan 23, 2017, 10:19:03 AM1/23/17
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On C320.org, search "Maxwell" for good info. Apparently, the conversion to combo line/chain is no longer available from Maxwell.
Make sure the cables have drip loops to prevent moisture from corroding the connections.

Warren and Pattie Updike
1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
Middle River, Chesapeake Bay

Doug Treff

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Jan 23, 2017, 10:23:22 AM1/23/17
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Does anyone know if there is a suitable replacement windlass from any
manufacturer that will work in place of the one that was fitted by
Catalina? What are they using in their current boats?

--
Doug Treff
do...@treff.us

Graeme Clark

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Jan 23, 2017, 10:40:08 AM1/23/17
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Doug
I was told the current VW500 might fit but they (Maxwell) weren't certain. Dimensions are available in Maxwell site. I didn't progress it as am now fixing my original
Graeme

Sent from mobile: please excuse typos etc.!


Scott Thompson

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Jan 23, 2017, 5:27:40 PM1/23/17
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Scott, you might want to take a look at the modification to the boat
that some of us have done that facilitates access to the windlass. See
Jeff Hare's picture here:
http://c320.org/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=20081116153535423.
The top board above the v-berth shelf is fairly easy to remove. (My
recollection is that you have to remove some trim first.) Then you can
saw off the fiberglass tab hanging down from the liner that blocks
access to the windlass. It's not structural.

Scott Thompson
Surprise, #653

Rod Boer

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Jan 25, 2017, 6:17:55 PM1/25/17
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Hi Scott,

I was regretful that I didn't purchase the conversion kit for the Maxwell Windlass that would handle both the line and chain. When I made a comment regarding this to a representative from Maxwell at the last boat show in Annapolis, he replied that I shouldn't be regretful because it didn't work anyway. He reiterated the statement twice.

Rod Boer
Odyssey, #688

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Scott Westwood
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2017 1:36 PM

Allan S Field

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Jan 25, 2017, 8:00:15 PM1/25/17
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Worked very well for me for many years and hopefully, works for the new owners also!
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