[C320-list] Question about hot water heater

[surprise thompson87.com via C320-list]

I'm away from my boat for a while, but need to decide about a replacement for my Kuuma hot water heater. The yard is proposing to replace it with a Kuuma 6 gallon (same brand and size as I have now) with heat exchanger fittings on the front. My recollection is that the hosing for heat exchanger in our 320s goes into the back, not the front of the heater. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?

T. Scott Thompson
Catalina 320 "Surprise," #653 (1999)
surp...@thompson87.com<mailto:surp...@thompson87.com>

[Tony Kalish via C320-list]

My water heater connection are in the rear (hull side) of my HW heater.
1999 C320 #617

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

>
> Scott


The OE installation places the 'front' of the water heater on the starboard
side of the area under the sink and the 'back' of the water heater on the
port side. The engine side loop enters and exits the water heater on the
port side and then is routed to the engine behind the little cubby hole
below the stove where most of us keep a fire extinguisher. The front side
of the water heater is where the domestic water lines, thermal switch,
relief valve, drain are located.

Hope that’s what you were asking.

Regards

Troy
Hull #514

>

[Bob Wyllner via C320-list]

On my 2005 hull 1039 all four of my connections are on the starboard side.

I was consisting replacing my hot water tank a while back and recall noting that several models I was shopping on the West Marine website were available with the engine water lines attachments on the either side. (Port or starboard). Buyers choice I would say a direct replacement would logically be easier unless you want to reroute hoses.

I was able to flush out the rotten egg smell and abandoned replacing it btw.

Bob

On Jan 29, 2026, at 6:28 PM, Tony Kalish via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote:

My water heater connection are in the rear (hull side) of my HW heater.

[ART HARDEN via C320-list]

The rotten egg smell in the water heater is generally from bacteria. You can take a pint of hydrogen peroxide and squirted into the drain hose to get the peroxide directly into the water heater. I put a fitting on an old peroxide lid that fit the drain hose. With pressure off of the system, I open the head faucets and squirt the hydrogen peroxide directly into the water heater. It will kill the smell instantaneously. The reason for opening the hot head faucet is that this gives someplace for the water displaced by the peroxide to drain out. I also usually put a pint of peroxide into each storage tank when I fill them. The peroxide does not really hurt the water and is so diluted by the time you fill the tank that it won’t hurt you. However, I generally use bottled water or water from a marina faucet for making coffee and cooking. The treated water is fine for taking a shower, washing dishes and even brushing your teeth. However, I try not to drink anything out of the tank.


Sent from my iPhone

Art Harden
Catalina 320 "Tortuga" 243
E-42
937.885.9380 (o)
937.477.5544 (m)

> On Jan 29, 2026, at 7:46 PM, Bob Wyllner via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote:
>
> On my 2005 hull 1039 all four of my connections are on the starboard side.

[Bob Wyllner via C320-list]

Thanks for this tip Art. I may try this in the spring rather the the bleach approach which does work as well, but requires a lot of flushing.

Bob

On Jan 30, 2026, at 12:20 AM, ART HARDEN <arts...@aol.com> wrote:

The rotten egg smell in the water heater is generally from bacteria. You can take a pint of hydrogen peroxide and squirted into the drain hose to get the peroxide directly into the water heater. I put a fitting on an old peroxide lid that fit the drain hose. With pressure off of the system, I open the head faucets and squirt the hydrogen peroxide directly into the water heater. It will kill the smell instantaneously. The reason for opening the hot head faucet is that this gives someplace for the water displaced by the peroxide to drain out. I also usually put a pint of peroxide into each storage tank when I fill them. The peroxide does not really hurt the water and is so diluted by the time you fill the tank that it won’t hurt you. However, I generally use bottled water or water from a marina faucet for making coffee and cooking. The treated water is fine for taking a shower, washing dishes and even brushing your teeth. However, I try not to drink anything out of the tank.

[Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list]

Anyone have experience with DC grounding gremlins? It is one of the items on my 1999 new-to-me C320 to-do list. I see that the ground side of the electric panel switches on my boat is a solid copper wire with soldered female spade terminals. The soldered connections have cracked, the crimp over the copper wire is the only electrical connection. I have 12 volts throughout the boat, but not enough amperage to run the water pressure pump or the bilge pump for example. I see the new panel that Catalina Direct sells uses a bus bar, a much better arrangement. So I am thinking about replacing the panel, or replacing all of the ground connections at the switches with new braided wire jumpers and connectors. I do like those new style switches on the new panel, maybe I make the kids pay for college themselves and I buy the panel. Thanks, Mike Stumpfoll

[Michael Deslauriers via C320-list]

Hi Mike,

Do you have 12 volts or 12.7? A full battery has more than 12 and only 12
volts indicates the battery is dead?

Mike Deslauriers
"Gloria"
2000 #717

[Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list]

Existing panel image. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 10:32 AM, Michael Stumpfoll <mi...@stumpfoll.com> wrote: Anyone have experience with DC grounding gremlins? It is one of the items on my 1999 new-to-me C320 to-do list. I see that the ground side of the electric panel switches on my boat is a solid copper wire with soldered female spade terminals. The soldered connections have cracked, the crimp over the copper wire is the only electrical connection. I have 12 volts throughout the boat, but not enough amperage to run the water pressure pump or the bilge pump for example. I see the new panel that Catalina Direct sells uses a bus bar, a much better arrangement. So I am thinking about replacing the panel, or replacing all of the ground connections at the switches with new braided wire jumpers and connectors. I do like those new style switches on the new panel, maybe I make the kids pay for college themselves and I buy the panel. Thanks, Mike Stumpfoll

[Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list]

Batteries are new, I repaced several corroded cable ends, the master ground stud, battery bus bars, etc. I have good amperage from the AC charger and engine alternator charging the batteries. So I have everything sorted on the battery/engine/charger side of the system. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 11:18 AM, Michael Deslauriers via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: Hi Mike, Do you have 12 volts or 12.7? A full battery has more than 12 and only 12 volts indicates the battery is dead? Mike Deslauriers "Gloria" 2000 #717 On Fri, Jan 30, 2026 at 10:39 AM Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list < c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: Anyone have experience with DC grounding gremlins? It is one of the items on my 1999 new-to-me C320 to-do list. I see that the ground side of the electric panel switches on my boat is a solid copper wire with soldered female spade terminals. The soldered connections have cracked, the crimp over the copper wire is the only electrical connection. I have 12 volts throughout the boat, but not enough amperage to run the water pressure pump or the bilge pump for example. I see the new panel that Catalina Direct sells uses a bus bar, a much better arrangement. So I am thinking about replacing the panel, or replacing all of the ground connections at the switches with new braided wire jumpers and connectors. I do like those new style switches on the new panel, maybe I make the kids pay for college themselves and I buy the panel. Thanks, Mike Stumpfoll

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Mike-

There are so many things that could be going on here that it would be very
hard to troubleshoot precisely what is going on but I’ll try to give you a
few thoughts.

There isn’t anything inherently wrong with the OE DC electrical
installation on a 1999 hull that would make me suspect the negative bus
inside the electrical panel (unless your boat sank at some point). All of
those connections are high and dry and in a reasonably well protected spot.
Is it the best electrical panel, is it worthy of crossing oceans in a
relentless sea, are the connectors and crimps up to Mainesail, or Calder
standards…nah, but honestly for a coastal cruising production boat…they're
fine. The switches on the panel DO go bad over time, so that is
something you can check with a voltmeter, just check the voltage across the
switch in the on and off position. If it’s always 12V the switch is bad.

To avoid some confusion and perhaps misleading advice let’s not discuss
"ground" in the context of your positive and negative bus.
Ground/Earth/Bonding convos can get really involved and to be honest isn’t
probably relevant to your pumps not working.

Is you have a voltmeter, please check voltage at the pumps. Also what is
the condition of your batteries? Are they new? What does your
electrical panel say the voltage is on the batteries. How do the
connections on the batteries look.

IF you know your pumps are good, the panel switch and the batteries are
always my first items to test. Speaking of switches..if you have any
halogen light fixtures in the ceiling lining that don’t work…those micro
switches go bad too.

Regards

Troy Dunn
Hull #514

[Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list]

This image is the solid wire bus bar with lose soldered female spade connectors. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 11:21 AM, Michael Stumpfoll <mi...@stumpfoll.com> wrote: Batteries are new, I repaced several corroded cable ends, the master ground stud, battery bus bars, etc. I have good amperage from the AC charger and engine alternator charging the batteries. So I have everything sorted on the battery/engine/charger side of the system. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 11:18 AM, Michael Deslauriers via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: Hi Mike, Do you have 12 volts or 12.7? A full battery has more than 12 and only 12 volts indicates the battery is dead? Mike Deslauriers "Gloria" 2000 #717 On Fri, Jan 30, 2026 at 10:39 AM Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list < c320...@lists.catalina320.com > wrote: Anyone have experience with DC grounding gremlins? It is one of the items on my 1999 new-to-me C320 to-do list. I see that the ground side of the electric panel switches on my boat is a solid copper wire with soldered female spade terminals. The soldered connections have cracked, the crimp over the copper wire is the only electrical connection. I have 12 volts throughout the boat, but not enough amperage to run the water pressure pump or the bilge pump for example. I see the new panel that Catalina Direct sells uses a bus bar, a much better arrangement. So I am thinking about replacing the panel, or replacing all of the ground connections at the switches with new braided wire jumpers and connectors. I do like those new style switches on the new panel, maybe I make the kids pay for college themselves and I buy the panel. Thanks, Mike Stumpfoll

[Bob Borelli via C320-list]

Voltage reading - 12 Volt Battery
13.2 to 13.5
Charging
Alternator OK @ 13.5 to 15.5 volts. 2 Volts above battery.
13.2 to 12.6
Maximum continuous preservation charge.
12.9
100%
Fully charged
12.5 - 12.6
100%
Full charge @ 60º F air temperature
12.48
95%
12.35
87%
12.25
75%
12.20
65%
Recharge battery
12.17
57%
Fail in Cold weather
12.0
50%
Half charge
11.95
35%
Low charge
11.8
25%
Discharged
11.7
0%
Fully discharged
11.4
0%
Dead battery - won't hold charge
9.0 V
0%
Defective - no good
After full charge, voltage will drop to 13.2 V & then slowly to 12.6 V
Voltage change of only 1.5 volts represents the full range of charge 0% to 100% on 12 Volt battery.
Voltage change: 1.5 volts = 0% to 100%
Measure circuit voltage 12 hours after charging to allow surface charge to dissipate & accurate reading.<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_charge>
1.250
87%
1.200
57%
0.050
0.050 difference between cells - the battery is sulfated & needs to be replaced.


________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Michael Deslauriers via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2026 10:53 AM
To: C320...@catalina320.com <C320...@catalina320.com>
Cc: Michael Deslauriers <mdeslaur...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Grounding Gremlins

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Mike
Set up a gallery page on the association website to share picture, the list
server doesn’t support attachments. Alternatively post the pics on the
association Facebook page.

I’m assuming your panel looks something like this one.

https://c320.org/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=20190427095040129


Those white buttons next to the switches are all breakers. There are three
switches to a breaker. Check that those white buttons haven’t popped.
Also check continuity on both sides of the breakers and the switches. The
wiring back there shouldn’t be an issue. The switches and breakers can be.

I am definitely confused by what you are describing for your negative bus
behind that panel, I’m concerned that the PO may have done some creative
wiring back there and then I’d have to ask…for the love of God…why!

Can you confirm that behind your panel looks like this? The negative bus
terminal is on the right side.

https://c320.org/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=20091128141110386


Regards

Troy

[Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list]

Album created with images and videos: 1999 Donation Boat Projects - Catalina 320 International Association Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 12:17 PM, Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: Existing panel image. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 10:32 AM, Michael Stumpfoll <mi...@stumpfoll.com> wrote: Anyone have experience with DC grounding gremlins? It is one of the items on my 1999 new-to-me C320 to-do list. I see that the ground side of the electric panel switches on my boat is a solid copper wire with soldered female spade terminals. The soldered connections have cracked, the crimp over the copper wire is the only electrical connection. I have 12 volts throughout the boat, but not enough amperage to run the water pressure pump or the bilge pump for example. I see the new panel that Catalina Direct sells uses a bus bar, a much better arrangement. So I am thinking about replacing the panel, or replacing all of the ground connections at the switches with new braided wire jumpers and connectors. I do like those new style switches on the new panel, maybe I make the kids pay for college themselves and I buy the panel. Thanks, Mike Stumpfoll

[jackbrennan via C320-list]

My main grounding bar is attachwd to the hull. There is a thick cable running to it from rhe battery bank.One time, that thick cable was loose. I had normal battery readings, but wverything crapped out whenever I turnwd on a light.Interestingly, the diesel startwd just fine becauae it is groundwd separately.Jack BrennanSent via the Samsung Galaxy A32 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> Date: 1/30/26 12:38 PM (GMT-07:00) To: C320...@Catalina320.com Cc: Michael Stumpfoll <mi...@stumpfoll.com>, C320...@catalina320.com Subject: Re: [C320-list] Grounding Gremlins This image is the solid wire bus bar with lose soldered female spade connectors. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 11:21 AM, Michael Stumpfoll <mi...@stumpfoll.com> wrote: Batteries are new, I repaced several corroded cable ends, the master ground stud, battery bus bars, etc. I have good amperage from the AC charger and engine alternator charging the batteries. So I have everything sorted on the battery/engine/charger side of the system. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 11:18 AM, Michael Deslauriers via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: Hi Mike, Do you have 12 volts or 12.7? A full battery has more than 12 and only 12 volts indicates the battery is dead? Mike Deslauriers "Gloria" 2000 #717 On Fri, Jan 30, 2026 at 10:39 AM Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list < c320...@lists.catalina320.com > wrote: Anyone have experience with DC grounding gremlins? It is one of the items on my 1999 new-to-me C320 to-do list. I see that the ground side of the electric panel switches on my boat is a solid copper wire with soldered female spade terminals. The soldered connections have cracked, the crimp over the copper wire is the only electrical connection. I have 12 volts throughout the boat, but not enough amperage to run the water pressure pump or the bilge pump for example. I see the new panel that Catalina Direct sells uses a bus bar, a much better arrangement. So I am thinking about replacing the panel, or replacing all of the ground connections at the switches with new braided wire jumpers and connectors. I do like those new style switches on the new panel, maybe I make the kids pay for college themselves and I buy the panel. Thanks, Mike Stumpfoll

[Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list]

Thanks Troy. Yes good points. The pumps operate fine on direct jumper wires to batteries. As you know, it is almost impossible to measure resistance in 12v DC circuits looking for a bad ground. You need to isolate circuits, the test current on a typical multi meter is insufficient, etc. So you go down the regular measuring voltage drop method. I did a bit of jumping legs of the circuits measuring drop and that got me to the 12v panel. This boat that I bought last summer for peanuts was a donation boat and I have budgeted for a lot of overhauling. I have already replaced the engine and other gear. The boat was closed up for many years unused. I think that is worse than a sinking. Everything sweats with the Maryland humidity. The electric panel is all spade connectors instead of ring terminals. The negative bus bar is a 12g solid copper wire with spade connectors crimped over it with dabs of solder. You can turn the wire freely because of the broken solder joints and lose crimps. I haven't measured the panel switches for voltage drop yet. If they are are bad, I am going to replace the whole panel instead of staying with those old style switches with separate breakers. Most of the wiring in the boat seems fine, not too much dark brown climbing up inside the insulation. Would have been nice if it was tinned marine wiring, but not the end of the world. Everything with low draw like lighting works fine. Everything on the AC side works fine. Thanks, Mike. On Jan 30, 2026, at 11:25 AM, Troy Dunn <troutw...@gmail.com> wrote: Mike- There are so many things that could be going on here that it would be very hard to troubleshoot precisely what is going on but I’ll try to give you a few thoughts. There isn’t anything inherently wrong with the OE DC electrical installation on a 1999 hull that would make me suspect the negative bus inside the electrical panel (unless your boat sank at some point). All of those connections are high and dry and in a reasonably well protected spot. Is it the best electrical panel, is it worthy of crossing oceans in a relentless sea, are the connectors and crimps up to Mainesail, or Calder standards…nah, but honestly for a coastal cruising production boat…they're fine. The switches on the panel DO go bad over time, so that is something you can check with a voltmeter, just check the voltage across the switch in the on and off position. If it’s always 12V the switch is bad. To avoid some confusion and perhaps misleading advice let’s not discuss "ground" in the context of your positive and negative bus. Ground/Earth/Bonding convos can get really involved and to be honest isn’t probably relevant to your pumps not working. Is you have a voltmeter, please check voltage at the pumps. Also what is the condition of your batteries? Are they new? What does your electrical panel say the voltage is on the batteries. How do the connections on the batteries look. IF you know your pumps are good, the panel switch and the batteries are always my first items to test. Speaking of switches..if you have any halogen light fixtures in the ceiling lining that don’t work…those micro switches go bad too. Regards Troy Dunn Hull #514

[john--- via C320-list]

Generally, solder is not normally good in vibration environments like boats.
It makes good electrical contact but is not good for resisting force or
vibration. I don't have the current standard but the version of the ABYC
standards that I do have says:

"11.14 .5 .7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in
any circuit. If soldered, the connections shall be so located or supported
as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the
flexible conductor into a solid conductor”.

And

" 11.14 .5 .8 Solderless crimp on connectors shall be attached with the
type of crimping tools designed for the connector used, and that will
produce a connection meeting the requirements of E dash 11.14.5 .3'

If your conductors are loose in the connectors, you might be able to simply
pull them out and re crimp them with a good crimping tool.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of
Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2026 11:04 AM
To: Troy Dunn <troutw...@gmail.com>
Cc: Michael Stumpfoll <mi...@stumpfoll.com>; C320...@catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Grounding Gremlins

[ptormey 4square.net via C320-list]

A quick way to isolate grounding issues is to use your car jumper cables. Just use the negative cable to connect the negative of your battery directly to the engine mount itself.

If that solves your problem, then the problem is the grounding wires going back to the batteries.
It should be noted that it is okay to run a second redundant ground.

If that doesn't solve the problem, run the jumper cable, just a negative, from the engine mount to the grounding block on the panel.

In my experience, any time you have voltage but not enough power to run something, is because you have a dirty connection somewhere in the line.

Pat
Pat Tormey
s/v Blues Skies
Newport RI

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2026 10:33 AM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com
Cc: Michael Stumpfoll <mi...@stumpfoll.com>; C320...@catalina320.com

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Mike

I’ve never studied those rigid negative "bars" on the back of the
electrical panel very closely. Those always appeared to me to be welded
round copper stock with crimp connections to the wires. I can’t think of
a reason there would be solder there…it would not make any sense to use
solder on those. In any case, if you are saying one of those is broken
that is a bummer but not the end of the world. Just substitute piggyback
spade terminals and daisy chain use 10AWG and connectors if you are
concerned about ampacity.

FWIW

Troy

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Mike

Looked through the gallery. Looks like you are having a lot of fun.

That battery compartment picture is disturbing. That’s a lot of really bad
corrosion. What a mess. Create a sub album and snap a few shots of the
after pictures. Sounds like you went to a DC to DC converter approach. I
think that’s definitely a great choice. We have a battery in reserve and a
464 amp hour house bank. It definitely makes gunkholing a lot more
enjoyable knowing you can hang out a few days on the batteries without
running the engine.

Negative cable going to the alternator looks a tad undersized. Is the lug
there for a future cable upgrade?

The prop shaft "should" sneak past the rudder IF you remove the cutless
bearing first to get a bit of an angle going. Did you try that? Please
advise as a new prop shaft is on my spring maintenance wish list. Also who
did you use for shafting. The price of shafting has doubled in the last 5
years.

Regards

Troy

[Michael Stumpfoll via C320-list]

I cut the old shaft near the strut to make removing easy. Then hacksaw through cutlass to remove it. Then without installing new cutlass I tried all ways to Sunday to try to get the new shaft past the rudder, but no good. On my last boat I dug a two foot deep hole in the ground to drop the rudder to replace the shaft. This time since I already had replaced the engine, and knowing how easy it is to move it, I unbolted the engine and slid it forward. It was going to need realigning anyway.
About battery capacity, I have spent two weeks sailing down to Smith Island and back with my wife and 2 kids on two car batteries. The Chesapeake is so windless in the summer we are always motoring for hours and always have charged batteries.
I recycled the two sealed 8D AGM batteries the previous owner had, and downsized the alternator and am using Group 24s like I always have.
And the DC to DC charger is on the list for the future some day, for now I rely on the human turning the three position switch. The anchor is not heavy, I don’t need a windlass. Etc.

Thanks,
Mike Stumpfoll

On Jan 30, 2026, at 8:01 PM, Troy Dunn <troutw...@gmail.com> wrote:

Mike