[C320-list] Water in the Fuel

[M K via C320-list]

I was out motoring yesterday and my Westerbeke diesel began stumbling/
dying. I was able to keep it running and get to a nearby fuel dock and tie
up. Ater 30 minutes I fired it up and it ran well and I was able to return
to my slip. I am a new owner and had just washed the boat that morning for
the first time swince launching. I suspect a dirty fiilter or water in the
fuel. If the filter is the cuplrit just changing should do it. Water in
the fuel is what I am looking for input on.

In addition to washing, I have recently repaced the fill cap and tube
assembly withn the fiberglass/plastic one from Catlina Direct and don't
know if that may be contributing. The vent tube may also have taken in
water from wash water rolling off the stern. I didn't wash directly in the
vent area of the stern.

I am concerned that if I find water will this require draining the tank and
getting a suction hose into the bottom to pull out the water? (Of course
just filled it up last weekend)
Another site mentioned a changing to a "trap" style vent tube to prevent
water from entering through the factory vent tube...Is this an issue with
the 320? Mine is a1996.

Thanks,
Matt Knoll
Mary Anne #315

[Dan Winsor via C320-list]

Not an issue to hull 109. I do have a water separator in my fuel line but
have never seen water in the bowl and I can't say I take any special
precautions around fill cap or vent. Just a swag here but although your
issue is most likely fuel related, the washing Parr may be just a
coincidence.

[ART HARDEN via C320-list]

It is possible to get water into the diesel fuel, but generally water will show up in the Raycor filter before it gets to the engine. This is the filter between the engine and the fuel tank. On Tortuga there was water in the fuel system and the previous owner did not drain it over the winter. The water froze in the bowl, it cracked, and the tank drained into the bilge. I found out about the story a year after I bought the boat. The bilge had a strong odor of diesel fuel, which I could not get rid of. I finally found some mechanics laundry detergent at the grocery store and used a strong mix with water to spray all the areas down. I then hosed it out while having a shop vac suck up all the excess water and fuel mixture. I actually went through and pulled all the floorboards and pressure washed the inside of the boat because of the black mold that had accumulated over years of neglect. I even used the spray mix on the engine to remove any excess fuel residue. Now the boat smells like plastic, but I don’t guess there’s anything I can do about that. The black mold came from numerous leaks on the boat, which have all been fixed over the years and now I maintain a dry bilge.

Another issue with diesel fuel, which could be your problem, is biological growth in the fuel. On our Capri 26 I had an issue of the fuel scum. I ended up draining the entire tank and disposing of the fuel and then replacing it with new fuel. There’s also a process called fuel polishing which the marina usually can do. They essentially suck out the fuel, water, and biologics, and run them through a filter process. Then the clean fuel is returned to the tank.

Just a reminder. If you are not familiar with diesel engines they do not like air in the fuel system. Be sure to bleed the air out of any new filters before cranking the engine. If the air gets into the injector lines the engine won’t start till the air bleeds through the injector or you loosen the line to bleed the air. Not an insurmountable issue just a PIA. I know because I recently ran my tractor out of fuel an ended up having to bleed the entire system.

Hope this helps.

Sent from my iPhone
Art Harden
Catalina 320 "Tortuga" E-62
937.885.9380 (o)
937.477.5544 (m)

[Jerry's Iphone via C320-list]

Matt,
Although I have a Yanmar, I had a very similar situation recently. I had water in the fuel which was easily detected by the mechanic because water was in the lower visible section of the fuel filter.

We determined that was either from winter condensation or a loose fuel cap. This was the first winter that I did not top off the fuel due to the local pumps closing down early for repairs.

The mechanic suctioned the water from the bottom of the tank until he started seeing fuel coming out and continued until all he saw was fuel. While there he also checked the hoses for any gunk the water may have caused. He then bled the hoses to remove all air. He ran it for a full thirty minutes with no problem. We took it out the following week and it ran like a charm.

I’ll pass on the mechanics advice. Just because it’s running now, don’t assume it has been corrected. Get all of it out now because the problem will resurface, maybe not so close to home next time.

Hope this helps.

Jerry Sheets
JellyRoll 890

> On Jun 21, 2024, at 9:57 AM, ART HARDEN via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote:
>
> It is possible to get water into the diesel fuel, but generally water will show up in the Raycor filter before it gets to the engine. This is the filter between the engine and the fuel tank. On Tortuga there was water in the fuel system and the previous owner did not drain it over the winter. The water froze in the bowl, it cracked, and the tank drained into the bilge. I found out about the story a year after I bought the boat. The bilge had a strong odor of diesel fuel, which I could not get rid of. I finally found some mechanics laundry detergent at the grocery store and used a strong mix with water to spray all the areas down. I then hosed it out while having a shop vac suck up all the excess water and fuel mixture. I actually went through and pulled all the floorboards and pressure washed the inside of the boat because of the black mold that had accumulated over years of neglect. I even used the spray mix on the engine to remove any excess fuel residue. Now the boat smells like plastic, but I don’t guess there’s anything I can do about that. The black mold came from numerous leaks on the boat, which have all been fixed over the years and now I maintain a dry bilge.

[M K via C320-list]

Jerry,
Thanks for the reply! Hopefully I can find a mech. that can suck out the
water without draining the tank. Good advice!

Thanks again
Matt

[Greg Flanagan via C320-list]

I have done it myself. I used the main halyard tied to the dock to give a little lean to port and used my oil extractor with a tube extension. Seemed to work well. Three years ago and no fuel problems hence.


Greg
Hoop Dancer #1076
Sidney, BC

> On Jun 21, 2024, at 9:46 AM, M K via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote:
>
> Jerry,

[Dave Hupe via C320-list]

Greg and Jerry-
Please explain more. Did you remove the plate where the float is to gain the access to be able to pump out of the tank?
Dave Hupe 
1994 C320 #32


Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer

On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 1:47 PM, Greg Flanagan via C320-list<c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: I have done it myself. I used the main halyard tied to the dock to give a little lean to port and used my oil extractor with a tube extension. Seemed to work well. Three years ago and no fuel problems hence.

[Greg Flanagan via C320-list]

I did. And I have posted in the past how I redid this access point so it is easy to take on and off. Essentially, I drilled out the tapped screw holes in the tank made a backing plate with fixed bolts coming up. The float assembly slips on and nuts on the “stud” bolts hold it in place. All easy accessible and simple to take on and off.

Greg
Hoop Dancer #1076
Sidney, BC

> On Jun 21, 2024, at 5:20 PM, Dave Hupe via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote:
>
> Greg and Jerry-

[Jerry's Iphone via C320-list]

Same here Dave. I had to replace the float a couple of years ago so we had easy access to it.

Jerry Sheets
JellyRoll 890

> On Jun 22, 2024, at 12:05 AM, Greg Flanagan via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote:
>
> I did. And I have posted in the past how I redid this access point so it is easy to take on and off. Essentially, I drilled out the tapped screw holes in the tank made a backing plate with fixed bolts coming up. The float assembly slips on and nuts on the “stud” bolts hold it in place. All easy accessible and simple to take on and off.