[C320-list] Port side gate stanchion replacement

[Daryl Hunt]

Just noticed cracks in the weld and bend in my port side gate stanchion, the one shaped like an "h".  Bought a new one from Cat Direct.  Removed the microwave to access the forward bolts (easy).  The aft bolts are in the cupboard aft of the microwave but there's a molded in cover for the wiring harness that makes it impossible to get to the bolts.  Has anyone run into this problem?  Thought I'd check before cutting a hole in the cover.
thanks, DarylDaryl HuntC320 #660 BelieveRochester, NY / Lake Ontario

[Ken Geiger]

Hi Daryle, I have not removed/replaced the port side gate stanchion but have done the starboard side. It was fairly easy to remove but reinstallation was a 2 person job and required a lot of cursing and swearing, glue, tape and some special clothes hanger wire tools to hold the 1/4" washes and nuts to get them manoeuvred and the thread started. The larger 1/2" nut was by comparison easy but not that easy. There was a fibre glass web on starboard side (maybe the same as what you are encountering that did make it much more difficult. Cutting it out would have helped but I worried about doing that. I also had some of the nuts and washers fall and disappear forever, so had to get spares.

Good luck

FWIW

Ken







---- Original Message ----
From: Daryl Hunt <drh...@rochester.rr.com>
To: C320 List <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
Sent: Wed, Aug 24, 2016 3:47 pm
Subject: [C320-list] Port side gate stanchion replacement

Just noticed cracks in the weld and bend in my port side gate stanchion, the one shaped like an "h". Bought a new one from Cat Direct. Removed the microwave to access the forward bolts (easy). The aft bolts are in the cupboard aft of the microwave but there's a molded in cover for the wiring harness that makes it impossible to get to the bolts. Has anyone run into this problem? Thought I'd check before cutting a hole in the cover.thanks, DarylDaryl HuntC320 #660 BelieveRochester, NY / Lake Ontario

[pat reynolds]

if you are talking about the curved fiberglass molding, you can cut away an opening as this is covered by the wood strip.  this is the only way to access any of the stanchion bolts

[Daryl Hunt]

That's what I figured... Thanks for the replies Pat & Ken! Next
project is installing a new VHF with RAM mic. I just bought a Standard
Horizon GX2200 Matrix VHF with GPS/DSC/AIS and the RAM3+ Mic. Pretty
good deal from The GPS Store.com with a $40 mail-in rebate. Should be
interesting to see how easy/difficult it will be to run the new 24'
cable to the helm!

/fair winds,

Daryl/
Daryl Hunt
C320 #660 Believe
Rochester, NY / Lake Ontario

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[Warren Updike]

Working with the stanchions is one of the more frustrating jobs I've done. I've done most of it; but, used our yard staff for the port gate stanchion. They cut a slot out of the "molded in cover" to facilitate the re-installation of the stanchion. This is not a problem (for me.)
Here is a trick I've used on other hard to reach areas: use a small dots of butyl rubber to hold the nut and washer assemblies together. Then with the wrench put in place and secure. I'm using butyl rubber for most bedding jobs so had some hanging around.
The bigger issue is that Catalina used light-weight fender washers with no backing place. In truth, some of the spaces would not allow for a backing plate. The underside of the deck in places, I found was too fragile for the original washers as they were pulled into the deck and were cup-shaped when I removed them.
Hope this helps someone.

Warren and Pattie Updike
1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
Middle River, Chesapeake Bay

[pat reynolds]

if your electrical panel and radio are on the port side, it is easy to run the wiring thru the cabinetry and port locker to the back of the boat.

[Crosby Roper]

Did this last year and needed two people. It is possible to do without citing a hole but very frustrating and plenty of knuckle scrapes and sailor lay language. Fortunately you are inches seafront the reefer so any easy reach for a cold beer. Stock. You will earn one!

Crosby Roper
S/v Tethys 1054
San Diego

Sent from my iPhone

[Onat Dogruer]

I think there has been some good write up on this topic on Mainsheet and I remember seeing someone on the group posting up as well.
I replaced port side gate and port side midship stanchions at the beginning of this season on our 1998. They were bent significantly and didn't want to straighten them as, apparently, the process weakens stainless steel.

In addition to the previously noted points, a few observations I would make:
-I had to take the cabinet off in the galley above the stove.  The liner is 1/4 inch thick and there are wires behind it. I placed a small steel plate behind not to chew through the wires with the hole saw bit.
-There are 1/4" bolts (5/16" washers); the ones on the front are 2.5 inches in length, in the back are 1.5 inches( h shaped).  I replaced all with new stainless steel bolts.  Don't try to salvage bolts; worth replacing with slightly longer ones.  As Warren described below, the washers that came out were cup-shaped because of the pressure over time.  There was no backing plate.

-I used 1/4" G10 fiberglass board as backing plate; because of the contour of the underside, I used a little bit fairing compound to fill depressed areas so that the plates press firmly underside.  Longer bolts are needed to allow for the backing plate. (Made 3 pieces for the gate stanchion - one piece for the large bolt, one piece for the 2 bolts in the back, one piece for the 2 bolts in the front)

-Chamfered/countersunk the holes from above to allow for butyl tape

-Used crow-foot set and 4" ratchet extension bar, a ratchet angle extension underside to handle weird turns

-Total labor: 12 hours (for both the gate and midship) if you have all the parts you need

Hope this helps.
-Onat#546