[C320-list] More Bilge Pump Questions
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David MacKinnon
Nov 9, 2014, 2:24:26 AM11/9/14
to c320...@lists.catalina320.com
I have not long ago purchased Hull#162 and recently have noticed about 3” of water in the bilge every time we go out for a sail, which was not there before. I have checked all of the usual areas for water ingress but cannot find any.
However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However, water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up & why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete system but I have not been able to find one.
David MacKinnon
Hull#162 Figment
However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However, water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up & why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete system but I have not been able to find one.
David MacKinnon
Hull#162 Figment
Elizabeth Schwartz
Nov 9, 2014, 10:06:47 PM11/9/14
to C320...@catalina320.com
Ahoy.....On #245 the bilge pump thu hull is on starboard side
aft.....above fuel tank. Mine pumps out without needing shower pump
on....the plumbing is straight forward, pump to hose. I bought mine just
over 1 yr ago, and added a second, back up pump. I got a y fitting with
one way valves, that the original 750 gph pump had difficulty pushing
open with the weight of water behind the valve. On the hard now, and
moved up to rule 1000 gph, hope this is stronger......Joe
aft.....above fuel tank. Mine pumps out without needing shower pump
on....the plumbing is straight forward, pump to hose. I bought mine just
over 1 yr ago, and added a second, back up pump. I got a y fitting with
one way valves, that the original 750 gph pump had difficulty pushing
open with the weight of water behind the valve. On the hard now, and
moved up to rule 1000 gph, hope this is stronger......Joe
Scott Thompson
Nov 10, 2014, 8:43:44 AM11/10/14
to C320...@catalina320.com, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
This is a little unclear and you might elaborate. When you "tested that
it was working satisfactorily" how did you do the test? What was
different when you "tested it installed?" Did it run after it was
installed? Do both pumps have to be running to empty the bilge, or do
you simply need to turn on power for the shower pump but not actually
activate it? Does the shower pump drain the shower sump?
I have a newer hull number but as far as I know the bilge pump thruhull
outlet is always near the stern, fairly high.
You very well may have a "ridiculous" installation due to misguided
creativity of a former owner. (I can't imagine that the bilge pump and
shower pump were connected in any way when your boat left the factory.)
On a boat I owned previously the intake side of the electric bilge pump
had been hooked up to a mystery hose in the bilge and did not pump the
bilge. Nor could I find the other end of that hose to figure what it was
supposed to be pumping out. But the hose itself always seemed to be
clear. So I disconnected the intake of the bilge pump from that hose and
reconnected it to the strainer in the bilge. This restored the bilge
pump to its original function.
However I now had another hose end of uncertain purpose open in the
bilge. I chose to track that down another day. The next time the family
went for an extended cruise we learned the hard way what it had been
intended for. When the boat started to stink, I tracked the smell to a
bilge filled with brownish, stinking water. Turns out the other end of
that hose went to the top of the holding tank, T-ed into the vent line,
and so the holding tank was now overflowing into the bilge through the
open hose. Apparently the previous owner had decided to convert the
bilge pump into an illegal "solution" to the problem of a full holding
tank. My replumbing had essentially converted the bilge into an overflow
tank!
My family says that all of our funniest stories involve poop.
Scott Thompson
Surprise, #653
it was working satisfactorily" how did you do the test? What was
different when you "tested it installed?" Did it run after it was
installed? Do both pumps have to be running to empty the bilge, or do
you simply need to turn on power for the shower pump but not actually
activate it? Does the shower pump drain the shower sump?
I have a newer hull number but as far as I know the bilge pump thruhull
outlet is always near the stern, fairly high.
You very well may have a "ridiculous" installation due to misguided
creativity of a former owner. (I can't imagine that the bilge pump and
shower pump were connected in any way when your boat left the factory.)
On a boat I owned previously the intake side of the electric bilge pump
had been hooked up to a mystery hose in the bilge and did not pump the
bilge. Nor could I find the other end of that hose to figure what it was
supposed to be pumping out. But the hose itself always seemed to be
clear. So I disconnected the intake of the bilge pump from that hose and
reconnected it to the strainer in the bilge. This restored the bilge
pump to its original function.
However I now had another hose end of uncertain purpose open in the
bilge. I chose to track that down another day. The next time the family
went for an extended cruise we learned the hard way what it had been
intended for. When the boat started to stink, I tracked the smell to a
bilge filled with brownish, stinking water. Turns out the other end of
that hose went to the top of the holding tank, T-ed into the vent line,
and so the holding tank was now overflowing into the bilge through the
open hose. Apparently the previous owner had decided to convert the
bilge pump into an illegal "solution" to the problem of a full holding
tank. My replumbing had essentially converted the bilge into an overflow
tank!
My family says that all of our funniest stories involve poop.
Scott Thompson
Surprise, #653
David MacKinnon
Nov 11, 2014, 10:37:43 PM11/11/14
to c320...@lists.catalina320.com
Does anyone know whether the shower sump connects to the same thruhull fitting as the bilge pump?
We tested the bilge pump (Rule 1100gph) to make sure it was pumping by disconnecting it from the bilge pump hose fitting & making sure it was pumping OK. We then disconnected the one way valve immediately in front of the bilge pump & water flowed back through the line back into the bilge. Reconnecting everything and then activating the shower sump the bilge started to empty immediately so I am starting to wonder whether there might have been a blockage of some sort in the line if the two outlets are connected somehow to the same thruhull fitting & it required the pressure from both pumps to force it out. (I have not been back on the boat since then so I dont know whether it is fixed or not but, hopefully, we will be out this coming weekend so we might find out then) BTW, I had actually tried to manually pump out the bilge with the hand pump in the cockpit previously & this had not worked either.
Still not sure where the water is coming from though.
David MacKinnon
Figment
#162
On 11 Nov 2014, at 11:19 pm, c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. winterizing (wfl...@aim.com)
> 2. Re: More Bilge Pump Questions (Elizabeth Schwartz)
> 3. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Jeff Hare)
> 4. Re: More Bilge Pump Questions (Scott Thompson)
> 5. Re: More Bilge Pump Questions (Scott Thompson)
> 6. Winterizing the Air Conditioner (Dean Vermeire)
> 7. Re: Winterizing the Air Conditioner (Dean Vermeire)
> 8. Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (WINDER & KIRONDE)
> 9. Re: Winterizing the Air Conditioner (Rick Sulewski)
> 10. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Rick Sulewski)
> 11. What happened to the list??? (Warren Updike)
> 12. Re: What happened to the list??? (Marek Fluder)
> 13. Piper Adventures sail blog (Jerry Taylor)
> 14. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Stephen Cox)
> 15. Winterizing the AC (wfl...@aim.com)
> 16. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Stephen Cox)
> 17. Re: Hull rub rail (Louis Spitz)
> 18. Re: Winterizing the AC (Chris Nichols)
> 19. Re: Hull rub rail (Diane Fowler)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 10:00:17 -0500
> From: wfl...@aim.com
> To: c320...@catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] winterizing
> Message-ID: <8D1CA4501AB2...@webmail-m230.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> This may be a repeat, if so, I apologize.
> I have posted some photos on the website showing things like by-passing the water heater, blowing out waterlines with a small shop vac, and the "Ts" I installed to facilitate adding antifreeze to the raw water intake on the engine and air conditioner pump. They can be found in the tech photos -- key word "winterize"
>
> Bill Lowe
> #1146
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2014 10:05:54 -0500 (EST)
> From: Elizabeth Schwartz <schwa...@optonline.net>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] More Bilge Pump Questions
> Message-ID: <a787fe6.14bc40.149...@optonline.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed; delsp=no
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 22:13:45 -0500
> From: "Jeff Hare" <Cata...@thehares.com>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <000001cffc94$584aa500$08dfef00$@thehares.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I think Karl posted the document about the grid liner from the factory.
> It's on our website here:
> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/visit.php?lid=63
>
> #809 Woodbine II
> -Jeff Hare
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Schwartz
> Sent: Sunday, November 9, 2014 12:44 PM
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
>
> Ahoy....That fix sounds good too. Bill, Did you find the information about the holes? Got it forom Catalina. If you can't get it from them, get back to me and i'll try to post them to you.....Joe
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 06, 2014 at 09:45 AM, Rick Sulewski wrote:
>
>> Bill, Regarding the shallow bilge: The solution that I found workable
>> over the last 20 seasons is to contain the bilge water in the first
>> compartment where the pump is located by plugging & sealing the drain
>> hole leading to the other forward compartments. There is certainly a
>> risk and requires a periodic check of the forward most compartment
>> ahead of the mast (where my transducers are located). I simply keep
>> that smaller forward floor panel unattached because it lies tightly in
>> its place and can be easily lifted to check if there is any moisture
>> (that has never occurred over the years). If the keel bolts begin to
>> leak, moisture will also appear in the forward most compartment. The
>> normal trick to keeping a dry bilge and any water from intruding under
>> the liner is to use Gortex shaft packing and/or removing any water in
>> the first bilge compartment to avoid excess water from sloshing out
>> and then under the liner while sailing. Rick My-Ria, 95 C320 #277
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On
>> Behalf Of Elizabeth Schwartz
>> Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 9:24 AM
>> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
>> Cc: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
>>
>> Ahoy.....Catalina was aware of this issue a long time ago. Dated
>> 5.17.96, they have a "fix" called structural grid drain hole
>> locations, to address this. I have owned #245 for just over a year.
>> The previous owner drilled most of the holes, I will finish the job
>> this winter. Obviously the designers did not consider water in the
>> bilge with the early 320. The "fix" will at best reduce the amount of
>> puddled water. Good luck.....Joe
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 05, 2014 at 10:32 AM, WINDER & KIRONDE wrote:
>>
>>> I have a leaking aqua muffler box that will get replaced this winter
>>> but it has been sending sea water to the bilge. Because of the very
>>> shallow bilge in the early Catalina 320's all of the bilge spaces
>>> between the hollow beams fill up before the float switch triggers the
>>> pump. And because holes have been drilled in the beams for wiring
>>> all of the beams fill up water as well. I do not know what Catalina
>>> was thinking when they designed this boat.
>>> Has anyone investigated the possibility of grinding down a 6" X 6"
>>> area on the centerline of the boat to a depth of about an inch where
>>> the bilge pump could be located, creating a low point where water
>>> could collect water and pump it out before all the other compartments
>>> filled with water?
>>>
>>> Bill Winder
>>> INDIGO #97
>>> Winthrop MA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:43:51 -0500
> From: Scott Thompson <surp...@thompson87.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] More Bilge Pump Questions
> Message-ID: <5460C117...@thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>> I have not long ago purchased Hull#162 and recently have noticed about 3? of water in the bilge every time we go out for a sail, which was not there before. I have checked all of the usual areas for water ingress but cannot find any.
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:43:51 -0500
> From: Scott Thompson <surp...@thompson87.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] More Bilge Pump Questions
> Message-ID: <5460C117...@thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>> I have not long ago purchased Hull#162 and recently have noticed about 3? of water in the bilge every time we go out for a sail, which was not there before. I have checked all of the usual areas for water ingress but cannot find any.
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 09:55:19 -0600
> From: Dean Vermeire <de...@vermeire.us>
> To: Catalina 320 List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
> Message-ID: <5460DFE7...@vermeire.us>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> If this information is already posted, I apologize for the repetitive
> redundancy...
>
> I had some difficulty getting the MarineAir A/C to suck in antifreeze
> from the seawater inlet hose. I'm guessing that it needs the water
> pressure it gets through the thru-hull. None the less I found the
> following steps to be very easy and effective. Keep in mind that I put
> a new ball valve with a waste drain on the thru-hull. I find it
> difficult to remove the water inlet hose from the thru-hull or the
> strainer without bloodying my hands. However, the hoses are very easy
> to remove from the air conditioner unit, since the fittings are not barbed.
>
> 1. Turn off the power to the air conditioner.
> 2. Close the thru-hull ball valve
> 3. Remove the drain plug from the strainer. This will get quite a bit
> of the water out of the system.
> 4. Disconnect the outlet (upper) hose from the air conditioner unit.
> This is under the starboard helm seat on our boat.
> 5. Blow out the water in the outlet (overboard) hose. I use either a
> shop vac or an inflator air pump.
> 6. Disconnect the inlet (lower) hose from the air conditioner unit.
> 7. Blow out the air conditioner from outlet (upper) fitting, or vacuum
> out from the inlet (lower) fitting. The water probably has already
> drained out anyway.
> 8. Using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow any remaining
> water through the hose, pump, and strainer.
> 9. Put the strainer drain plug back in.
> 10. Remove the waste drain cap from the water inlet ball valve on the
> thru-hull.
> 11. Again using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow out any
> remaining water.
> 12. Put the waste drain cap back on the ball valve.
> 13. Optionally, if you really want to use antifreeze, pour it in through
> the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit.
> 14. Reconnect the hoses on the air conditioner unit.
>
> There you go. Quick and easy. No blood.
>
> Dean Vermeire
> Moonstruck II (#847)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 09:59:05 -0600
> From: Dean Vermeire <de...@vermeire.us>
> To: Catalina 320 List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
> Message-ID: <5460E0C9...@vermeire.us>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> I forgot to mention that I was winterizing with the boat in the water,
> in case you are wondering why I didn't just open the thru-hull and blow
> out the water.
> Dean
>
> On 11/10/2014 9:55 AM, Dean Vermeire wrote:
>> If this information is already posted, I apologize for the repetitive
>> redundancy...
>>
>> I had some difficulty getting the MarineAir A/C to suck in antifreeze
>> from the seawater inlet hose. I'm guessing that it needs the water
>> pressure it gets through the thru-hull. None the less I found the
>> following steps to be very easy and effective. Keep in mind that I put
>> a new ball valve with a waste drain on the thru-hull. I find it
>> difficult to remove the water inlet hose from the thru-hull or the
>> strainer without bloodying my hands. However, the hoses are very easy
>> to remove from the air conditioner unit, since the fittings are not
>> barbed.
>>
>> 1. Turn off the power to the air conditioner.
>> 2. Close the thru-hull ball valve
>> 3. Remove the drain plug from the strainer. This will get quite a bit
>> of the water out of the system.
>> 4. Disconnect the outlet (upper) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> This is under the starboard helm seat on our boat.
>> 5. Blow out the water in the outlet (overboard) hose. I use either a
>> shop vac or an inflator air pump.
>> 6. Disconnect the inlet (lower) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> 7. Blow out the air conditioner from outlet (upper) fitting, or vacuum
>> out from the inlet (lower) fitting. The water probably has already
>> drained out anyway.
>> 8. Using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow any remaining
>> water through the hose, pump, and strainer.
>> 9. Put the strainer drain plug back in.
>> 10. Remove the waste drain cap from the water inlet ball valve on the
>> thru-hull.
>> 11. Again using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow out any
>> remaining water.
>> 12. Put the waste drain cap back on the ball valve.
>> 13. Optionally, if you really want to use antifreeze, pour it in through
>> the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit.
>> 14. Reconnect the hoses on the air conditioner unit.
>>
>> There you go. Quick and easy. No blood.
>>
>> Dean Vermeire
>> Moonstruck II (#847)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 10:59:17 -0500
> From: "WINDER & KIRONDE" <wcwi...@comcast.net>
> To: <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <01da01cffcff$48929620$d9b7c260$@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are
> near the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more
> easily run wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to
> rerun the wires somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the
> bilge pump exit piping and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam
> near the galley sole. Water going into the bilge from the engine
> compartment through the Catalina installed tubes backs up through the
> difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The
> problem here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge
> pump does not come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2
> inches, all of the compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if
> there is a little water at the bilge pump area there is a little water
> in every compartment, and it stays there indefinitely unless you pull
> up the sole boards and dry out each bilge compartment. The only
> solution to this problem is to somehow block the tubes forward of the
> bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward compartments.
>
> Bill Winder
> INDIGO #97
> Winthrop MA
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 11:30:44 -0500
> From: "Rick Sulewski" <rsul...@bex.net>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
> Message-ID: <000001cffd03$ade8fb50$09baf1f0$@bex.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have to respond because the winterization process I was directed to use by
> my AC installer takes all of about 10 minutes, is completed while the boat
> is on the hard and the only tools involved are a screw driver and a funnel:
> 1st step - simply disconnect the AC water flow exit hose from the above the
> water thru-hull and blow air into that exit hose to reverse the existing AC
> water that will then exit from the AC water intake (being sure the seacock
> is open). No need to use anything other than bringing the hose to your
> mouth, being careful naturally to NOT INHALE thru the hose and listen for
> the water to clear the intake thru-hull, or when there is no longer
> pressure; 2nd Step - remove the water from the AC filter/strainer; 3rd step:
> pour antifreeze with a funnel into that same exit hose you just blew clear
> until the top of the hose fills, and then proceed to blow air into that hose
> to force antifreeze into the unit. Repeat until about a 1/3rd of a gallon of
> antifreeze is used (in my case the AC/Heat unit is located in the port
> locker). 4th step -reattach the exit hose and remove the antifreeze from the
> filter/strainer. I leave the AC seacock open when I launch and start up
> the AC/Heat immediately upon returning the dock and have never had an
> issue, or even an airlock error message.
> Rick
> My-Ria; 95 C320 Hull #277
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
> Of Dean Vermeire
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:59 AM
> To: Catalina 320 List
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
>
> I forgot to mention that I was winterizing with the boat in the water, in
> case you are wondering why I didn't just open the thru-hull and blow out the
> water.
> Dean
>
> On 11/10/2014 9:55 AM, Dean Vermeire wrote:
>> If this information is already posted, I apologize for the repetitive
>> redundancy...
>>
>> I had some difficulty getting the MarineAir A/C to suck in antifreeze
>> from the seawater inlet hose. I'm guessing that it needs the water
>> pressure it gets through the thru-hull. None the less I found the
>> following steps to be very easy and effective. Keep in mind that I put
>> a new ball valve with a waste drain on the thru-hull. I find it
>> difficult to remove the water inlet hose from the thru-hull or the
>> strainer without bloodying my hands. However, the hoses are very easy
>> to remove from the air conditioner unit, since the fittings are not
>> barbed.
>>
>> 1. Turn off the power to the air conditioner.
>> 2. Close the thru-hull ball valve
>> 3. Remove the drain plug from the strainer. This will get quite a bit
>> of the water out of the system.
>> 4. Disconnect the outlet (upper) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> This is under the starboard helm seat on our boat.
>> 5. Blow out the water in the outlet (overboard) hose. I use either a
>> shop vac or an inflator air pump.
>> 6. Disconnect the inlet (lower) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> 7. Blow out the air conditioner from outlet (upper) fitting, or vacuum
>> out from the inlet (lower) fitting. The water probably has already
>> drained out anyway.
>> 8. Using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow any remaining
>> water through the hose, pump, and strainer.
>> 9. Put the strainer drain plug back in.
>> 10. Remove the waste drain cap from the water inlet ball valve on the
>> thru-hull.
>> 11. Again using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow out any
>> remaining water.
>> 12. Put the waste drain cap back on the ball valve.
>> 13. Optionally, if you really want to use antifreeze, pour it in through
>> the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit.
>> 14. Reconnect the hoses on the air conditioner unit.
>>
>> There you go. Quick and easy. No blood.
>>
>> Dean Vermeire
>> Moonstruck II (#847)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 11:33:41 -0500
> From: "Rick Sulewski" <rsul...@bex.net>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <000101cffd04$17622c00$46268400$@bex.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Bill,
> Did you see my message below on the list I sent on Nov 6th as follows?
>
> Bill,
> Regarding the shallow bilge: The solution that I found workable over the
> last 20 seasons is to contain the bilge water in the first compartment where
> the pump is located by plugging & sealing the drain hole leading to the
> other forward compartments. There is certainly a risk and requires a
> periodic check of the forward most compartment ahead of the mast (where my
> transducers are located). I simply keep that smaller forward floor panel
> unattached because it lies tightly in its place and can be easily lifted to
> check if there is any moisture (that has never occurred over the years). If
> the keel bolts begin to leak, moisture will also appear in the forward most
> compartment. The normal trick to keeping a dry bilge and any water from
> intruding under the liner is to use Gortex shaft packing and/or removing any
> water in the first bilge compartment to avoid excess water from sloshing out
> and then under the liner while sailing.
> Rick
> My-Ria, 95 C320 #277
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
> Of WINDER & KIRONDE
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:59 AM
> To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
>
> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are near
> the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more easily run
> wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to rerun the wires
> somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the bilge pump exit piping
> and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam near the galley sole. Water
> going into the bilge from the engine compartment through the Catalina
> installed tubes backs up through the difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The problem
> here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge pump does not
> come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2 inches, all of the
> compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if there is a little water
> at the bilge pump area there is a little water in every compartment, and it
> stays there indefinitely unless you pull up the sole boards and dry out each
> bilge compartment. The only solution to this problem is to somehow block the
> tubes forward of the bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward
> compartments.
>
> Bill Winder
> INDIGO #97
> Winthrop MA
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 15:44:25 -0500
> From: Warren Updike <wup...@hotmail.com>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] What happened to the list???
> Message-ID: <COL129-DS27A0D96B8...@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I just realized that I haven't been getting list mail, either individually
> or in a digest. Is it just me or is the list down? I checked my list
> settings on the web site and everything looks A-OK.
>
>
>
> Warren and Pattie Updike
>
> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 16:04:43 -0500
> From: Marek Fluder <mar...@gmail.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] What happened to the list???
> Message-ID:
> <CAH_L7eDtt7=FcVh72kh8R-D7u8L3hgxODzRYHxb=n+ogj...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Warren,
>
> Everything seems OK for me - there were few messages today as you can see
> here:
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/c320-list
>
> Marek
> #1028
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 3:44 PM, Warren Updike <wup...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I just realized that I haven't been getting list mail, either individually
>> or in a digest. Is it just me or is the list down? I checked my list
>> settings on the web site and everything looks A-OK.
>>
>>
>>
>> Warren and Pattie Updike
>>
>> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 18:27:46 -0500
> From: "Jerry Taylor" <je...@jerrytaylorhomes.com>
> To: <C320...@catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Piper Adventures sail blog
> Message-ID: <BA5126ADAD6C4B41AA761B09D039190B@TaylorHP>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am on Piper heading down the ICW. Although late, I have started a blog which helps to manage time tremendously. If you would like to follow along, the link is www.sailblogs.com/member/piperadventures/. You do not need to register or login to view.
>
> I met with Karl and Elaine M. last week in Oriental, NC and we had a nice time with drinks on Piper and a delicious dinner out. Yes, Elaine...I did eat the whole thing (strombolini with meatballs). Karl has agreed to put the remaining photos that I took of the Rendezvous on the website along with captions since he knows more of the folks than I do. It is quite a job for him and we will get back to you when completed.
>
> I also had a nice dinner with Chris Burti (Mainsheet Technical Editor) in Beaufort, NC and it was good to be able to put the face with the name. A lot of partying for the old guy!
>
> I plan to run for a third term as your VC. A board meeting conference call is scheduled for tomorrow evening and voting will take place in the very near future. I would appreciate your vote one more time.
>
> Regards,
> Jerry
>
> Piper #1128
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 10:35:08 +1100
> From: Stephen Cox <sc...@timmin.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, WINDER & KIRONDE
> <wcwi...@comcast.net>, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <5AF9A6F8-6DDA-408D...@timmin.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> On November 11, 2014 2:59:17 AM GMT+11:00, WINDER & KIRONDE <wcwi...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
>> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
>> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are
>> near the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more
>> easily run wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to
>> rerun the wires somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the
>> bilge pump exit piping and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam
>> near the galley sole. Water going into the bilge from the engine
>> compartment through the Catalina installed tubes backs up through the
>> difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
>> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
>> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
>> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The
>> problem here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge
>> pump does not come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2
>> inches, all of the compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if
>> there is a little water at the bilge pump area there is a little water
>> in every compartment, and it stays there indefinitely unless you pull
>> up the sole boards and dry out each bilge compartment. The only
>> solution to this problem is to somehow block the tubes forward of the
>> bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward compartments.
>>
>> Bill Winder
>> INDIGO #97
>> Winthrop MA
>
> I have fitted a Rule 1100 Electronic Automatic Bilge Pump to my C320. It detects water by spinning up very briefly every couple of minutes and senses the load. If there is water present it will pump it otherwise sleep again. It comes on with far less than 1 1/2" of water present and costumes negligible power over time if there is nothing to pump.
>
> Stephen Cox
> Tegwen #1141
> --
> Stephen Cox
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 17:34:11 -0500
> From: wfl...@aim.com
> To: c320...@catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Winterizing the AC
> Message-ID: <8D1CB4D95287...@webmail-va171.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> This probably will not make it to the thread because recently not many of my submissions do.
>
> I have pictures of the "T" I added to both the a/c intake and engine raw water intake to keep from having to remove any water lines. (see technical photos key word "winterize". I overcome the inability of the pumps to pick up prime by running my antifreeze supply tubing out the aft port-lite and and adding antifreeze from the cockpit. the added head above the pumps enables them to pick up prime immediately.
>
> Bill
> #1146
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 10:35:08 +1100
> From: Stephen Cox <sc...@timmin.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, WINDER & KIRONDE
> <wcwi...@comcast.net>, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <5AF9A6F8-6DDA-408D...@timmin.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> On November 11, 2014 2:59:17 AM GMT+11:00, WINDER & KIRONDE <wcwi...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
>> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
>> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are
>> near the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more
>> easily run wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to
>> rerun the wires somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the
>> bilge pump exit piping and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam
>> near the galley sole. Water going into the bilge from the engine
>> compartment through the Catalina installed tubes backs up through the
>> difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
>> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
>> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
>> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The
>> problem here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge
>> pump does not come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2
>> inches, all of the compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if
>> there is a little water at the bilge pump area there is a little water
>> in every compartment, and it stays there indefinitely unless you pull
>> up the sole boards and dry out each bilge compartment. The only
>> solution to this problem is to somehow block the tubes forward of the
>> bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward compartments.
>>
>> Bill Winder
>> INDIGO #97
>> Winthrop MA
>
> I have fitted a Rule 1100 Electronic Automatic Bilge Pump to my C320. It detects water by spinning up very briefly every couple of minutes and senses the load. If there is water present it will pump it otherwise sleep again. It comes on with far less than 1 1/2" of water present and costumes negligible power over time if there is nothing to pump.
>
> Stephen Cox
> Tegwen #1141
> --
> Stephen Cox
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 08:01:03 -0500
> From: Louis Spitz <aron...@gmail.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
> Message-ID: <29B4C91A-BB1D-42B8...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> My rub rail was chewed up by the yard when the boat was on the hard. The damage was limited to about 8?. Also, about 4 ? came out of the ?track?. Where can I get a new rail, or get the existing one repaired?
>
> Lou Spitz
> #195
> Merry Chase
>
>> On Oct 11, 2014, at 8:49 AM, mill...@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the feedback on the rub rail issue. I will let you know how it goes.
>> Art #680
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jeff Hare <Cata...@thehares.com>
>> To: C320-List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
>> Sent: Thu, Oct 9, 2014 6:49 pm
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>
>>
>> BTW, while the rubber is out of the rub rail, use the opportunity to ensure
>> that all the screws holding the track in place are snugged up. Then dab
>> each one with a smear of silicone if you have any on hand.
>>
>> -Jeff Hare
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>> Of Alan Goodman
>> Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 4:39 PM
>> To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>> Subject: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>
>> Art - I had a similar issue. I used a rubber mallet. The back side of the
>> vinyl profile is "taller" than the receiving "track" in the stainless. You
>> need to place the bottom of the vinyl profile inside the lower track lip and
>> use the mallet by striking the top of the vinyl rub rail in a "down and in"
>> direction. The top portion of the profile will snap into the top of the
>> track. BTW, acetone generally removes all marks from the vinyl insert and
>> leaves it looking new. I don't think the silicon is a good idea in that it
>> may make it easier for the vinyl profile to later pull out. Also, depending
>> in if the 'incident' moved the vinyl profile laterally, you may need to
>> adjust the lateral positioning to get a perfect lay flat. Alan Hull 67
>> Holland MI
>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 19:21:21 -0400
>>> From: mill...@aol.com
>>> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>> Message-ID: <8D1B165B430A...@webmail-vm025.sysops.aol.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>
>>>
>>> High winds the last several days on the Long Island sound. Got pushed
>>> against a piling leaving a dock and had about 24" of rub rail (hard
>>> rubber/??) on the Port beam pop out of it's retaining track. I have tried
>> some silicon spray on the track, while trying to wedge it
>>> back in place with a scrapper blade and mallet. Also tried applying some
>> heat.... no luck.
>>> Surely, someone has experienced this problem???? Any recommendations
>>> on how to fix are welcome.
>>> Art #680
>>>
>>>
>> =
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 13:01:52 +0000
> From: Chris Nichols <cini...@btinternet.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the AC
> Message-ID: <A13641C0-D902-45CF...@btinternet.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> No idea of the long term implications of the approach but when my ac hoses were tough to budge I simply applied compressed air to the thru-hull water inlet and blew the water through the system. All worked fine for 5 years so far with this approach in boston.
>
> For engine I used the t-junction installed by the p.o.
>
> Chris
> Amanda rose
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 10 Nov 2014, at 22:34, wfl...@aim.com wrote:
>>
>> This probably will not make it to the thread because recently not many of my submissions do.
>>
>> I have pictures of the "T" I added to both the a/c intake and engine raw water intake to keep from having to remove any water lines. (see technical photos key word "winterize". I overcome the inability of the pumps to pick up prime by running my antifreeze supply tubing out the aft port-lite and and adding antifreeze from the cockpit. the added head above the pumps enables them to pick up prime immediately.
>>
>> Bill
>> #1146
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 08:19:26 -0500
> From: Diane Fowler <dian...@aol.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
> Message-ID: <1A796D64-20F7-4BAC...@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Get a rubber mallet & hair dryer. Warm rubber rub rail & carefully pound it back in. Windy City #948. Cape Coral, fL
>
> Capt. Diane fowler, 239-850-4935.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 11, 2014, at 8:01 AM, Louis Spitz <aron...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> My rub rail was chewed up by the yard when the boat was on the hard. The damage was limited to about 8?. Also, about 4 ? came out of the ?track?. Where can I get a new rail, or get the existing one repaired?
>>
>> Lou Spitz
>> #195
>> Merry Chase
>>
>>> On Oct 11, 2014, at 8:49 AM, mill...@aol.com wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the feedback on the rub rail issue. I will let you know how it goes.
>>> Art #680
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Jeff Hare <Cata...@thehares.com>
>>> To: C320-List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
>>> Sent: Thu, Oct 9, 2014 6:49 pm
>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>>
>>>
>>> BTW, while the rubber is out of the rub rail, use the opportunity to ensure
>>> that all the screws holding the track in place are snugged up. Then dab
>>> each one with a smear of silicone if you have any on hand.
>>>
>>> -Jeff Hare
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>>> Of Alan Goodman
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 4:39 PM
>>> To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>>> Subject: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>>
>>> Art - I had a similar issue. I used a rubber mallet. The back side of the
>>> vinyl profile is "taller" than the receiving "track" in the stainless. You
>>> need to place the bottom of the vinyl profile inside the lower track lip and
>>> use the mallet by striking the top of the vinyl rub rail in a "down and in"
>>> direction. The top portion of the profile will snap into the top of the
>>> track. BTW, acetone generally removes all marks from the vinyl insert and
>>> leaves it looking new. I don't think the silicon is a good idea in that it
>>> may make it easier for the vinyl profile to later pull out. Also, depending
>>> in if the 'incident' moved the vinyl profile laterally, you may need to
>>> adjust the lateral positioning to get a perfect lay flat. Alan Hull 67
>>> Holland MI
>>>
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Message: 1
>>>> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 19:21:21 -0400
>>>> From: mill...@aol.com
>>>> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>>> Message-ID: <8D1B165B430A...@webmail-vm025.sysops.aol.com>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> High winds the last several days on the Long Island sound. Got pushed
>>>> against a piling leaving a dock and had about 24" of rub rail (hard
>>>> rubber/??) on the Port beam pop out of it's retaining track. I have tried
>>> some silicon spray on the track, while trying to wedge it
>>>> back in place with a scrapper blade and mallet. Also tried applying some
>>> heat.... no luck.
>>>> Surely, someone has experienced this problem???? Any recommendations
>>>> on how to fix are welcome.
>>>> Art #680
>>> =
>>
>
>
> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 2195, Issue 1
> ******************************************
We tested the bilge pump (Rule 1100gph) to make sure it was pumping by disconnecting it from the bilge pump hose fitting & making sure it was pumping OK. We then disconnected the one way valve immediately in front of the bilge pump & water flowed back through the line back into the bilge. Reconnecting everything and then activating the shower sump the bilge started to empty immediately so I am starting to wonder whether there might have been a blockage of some sort in the line if the two outlets are connected somehow to the same thruhull fitting & it required the pressure from both pumps to force it out. (I have not been back on the boat since then so I dont know whether it is fixed or not but, hopefully, we will be out this coming weekend so we might find out then) BTW, I had actually tried to manually pump out the bilge with the hand pump in the cockpit previously & this had not worked either.
Still not sure where the water is coming from though.
David MacKinnon
Figment
#162
On 11 Nov 2014, at 11:19 pm, c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com wrote:
> Send C320-list mailing list submissions to
> c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.catalina320.com/listinfo.cgi/c320-list-catalina320.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> c320-li...@lists.catalina320.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of C320-list digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. winterizing (wfl...@aim.com)
> 2. Re: More Bilge Pump Questions (Elizabeth Schwartz)
> 3. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Jeff Hare)
> 4. Re: More Bilge Pump Questions (Scott Thompson)
> 5. Re: More Bilge Pump Questions (Scott Thompson)
> 6. Winterizing the Air Conditioner (Dean Vermeire)
> 7. Re: Winterizing the Air Conditioner (Dean Vermeire)
> 8. Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (WINDER & KIRONDE)
> 9. Re: Winterizing the Air Conditioner (Rick Sulewski)
> 10. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Rick Sulewski)
> 11. What happened to the list??? (Warren Updike)
> 12. Re: What happened to the list??? (Marek Fluder)
> 13. Piper Adventures sail blog (Jerry Taylor)
> 14. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Stephen Cox)
> 15. Winterizing the AC (wfl...@aim.com)
> 16. Re: Shallow Bilge '94 C320 (Stephen Cox)
> 17. Re: Hull rub rail (Louis Spitz)
> 18. Re: Winterizing the AC (Chris Nichols)
> 19. Re: Hull rub rail (Diane Fowler)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 10:00:17 -0500
> From: wfl...@aim.com
> To: c320...@catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] winterizing
> Message-ID: <8D1CA4501AB2...@webmail-m230.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> This may be a repeat, if so, I apologize.
> I have posted some photos on the website showing things like by-passing the water heater, blowing out waterlines with a small shop vac, and the "Ts" I installed to facilitate adding antifreeze to the raw water intake on the engine and air conditioner pump. They can be found in the tech photos -- key word "winterize"
>
> Bill Lowe
> #1146
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2014 10:05:54 -0500 (EST)
> From: Elizabeth Schwartz <schwa...@optonline.net>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] More Bilge Pump Questions
> Message-ID: <a787fe6.14bc40.149...@optonline.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed; delsp=no
>
> Ahoy.....On #245 the bilge pump thu hull is on starboard side
> aft.....above fuel tank. Mine pumps out without needing shower pump
> on....the plumbing is straight forward, pump to hose. I bought mine just
> over 1 yr ago, and added a second, back up pump. I got a y fitting with
> one way valves, that the original 750 gph pump had difficulty pushing
> open with the weight of water behind the valve. On the hard now, and
> moved up to rule 1000 gph, hope this is stronger......Joe ?
> Ahoy.....On #245 the bilge pump thu hull is on starboard side
> aft.....above fuel tank. Mine pumps out without needing shower pump
> on....the plumbing is straight forward, pump to hose. I bought mine just
> over 1 yr ago, and added a second, back up pump. I got a y fitting with
> one way valves, that the original 750 gph pump had difficulty pushing
> open with the weight of water behind the valve. On the hard now, and
>
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 09, 2014 at 02:24 AM, David MacKinnon wrote:
>
>> I have not long ago purchased Hull#162 and recently have noticed about
>> 3? of water in the bilge every time we go out for a sail, which was
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 09, 2014 at 02:24 AM, David MacKinnon wrote:
>
>> I have not long ago purchased Hull#162 and recently have noticed about
>> not there before. I have checked all of the usual areas for water
>> ingress but cannot find any.
>>
>> However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I
>> found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed
>> the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However,
>> water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
>>
>>
>> I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship
>> between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower
>> pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water
>> left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up &
>> why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge
>> pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can
>> anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early
>> model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no
>> results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
>>
>>
>> As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge
>> pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete
>> system but I have not been able to find one.
>>
>>
>> David MacKinnon
>> Hull#162 Figment
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>> ingress but cannot find any.
>>
>> However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I
>> found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed
>> the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However,
>> water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
>>
>>
>> I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship
>> between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower
>> pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water
>> left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up &
>> why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge
>> pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can
>> anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early
>> model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no
>> results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
>>
>>
>> As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge
>> pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete
>> system but I have not been able to find one.
>>
>>
>> David MacKinnon
>> Hull#162 Figment
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 22:13:45 -0500
> From: "Jeff Hare" <Cata...@thehares.com>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <000001cffc94$584aa500$08dfef00$@thehares.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I think Karl posted the document about the grid liner from the factory.
> It's on our website here:
> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/visit.php?lid=63
>
> #809 Woodbine II
> -Jeff Hare
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Schwartz
> Sent: Sunday, November 9, 2014 12:44 PM
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
>
> Ahoy....That fix sounds good too. Bill, Did you find the information about the holes? Got it forom Catalina. If you can't get it from them, get back to me and i'll try to post them to you.....Joe
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 06, 2014 at 09:45 AM, Rick Sulewski wrote:
>
>> Bill, Regarding the shallow bilge: The solution that I found workable
>> over the last 20 seasons is to contain the bilge water in the first
>> compartment where the pump is located by plugging & sealing the drain
>> hole leading to the other forward compartments. There is certainly a
>> risk and requires a periodic check of the forward most compartment
>> ahead of the mast (where my transducers are located). I simply keep
>> that smaller forward floor panel unattached because it lies tightly in
>> its place and can be easily lifted to check if there is any moisture
>> (that has never occurred over the years). If the keel bolts begin to
>> leak, moisture will also appear in the forward most compartment. The
>> normal trick to keeping a dry bilge and any water from intruding under
>> the liner is to use Gortex shaft packing and/or removing any water in
>> the first bilge compartment to avoid excess water from sloshing out
>> and then under the liner while sailing. Rick My-Ria, 95 C320 #277
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On
>> Behalf Of Elizabeth Schwartz
>> Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 9:24 AM
>> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
>> Cc: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
>>
>> Ahoy.....Catalina was aware of this issue a long time ago. Dated
>> 5.17.96, they have a "fix" called structural grid drain hole
>> locations, to address this. I have owned #245 for just over a year.
>> The previous owner drilled most of the holes, I will finish the job
>> this winter. Obviously the designers did not consider water in the
>> bilge with the early 320. The "fix" will at best reduce the amount of
>> puddled water. Good luck.....Joe
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 05, 2014 at 10:32 AM, WINDER & KIRONDE wrote:
>>
>>> I have a leaking aqua muffler box that will get replaced this winter
>>> but it has been sending sea water to the bilge. Because of the very
>>> shallow bilge in the early Catalina 320's all of the bilge spaces
>>> between the hollow beams fill up before the float switch triggers the
>>> pump. And because holes have been drilled in the beams for wiring
>>> all of the beams fill up water as well. I do not know what Catalina
>>> was thinking when they designed this boat.
>>> Has anyone investigated the possibility of grinding down a 6" X 6"
>>> area on the centerline of the boat to a depth of about an inch where
>>> the bilge pump could be located, creating a low point where water
>>> could collect water and pump it out before all the other compartments
>>> filled with water?
>>>
>>> Bill Winder
>>> INDIGO #97
>>> Winthrop MA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:43:51 -0500
> From: Scott Thompson <surp...@thompson87.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] More Bilge Pump Questions
> Message-ID: <5460C117...@thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>>
>> However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However, water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
>>
>>
>> I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up & why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
>>
>>
>> As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete system but I have not been able to find one.
>>
>>
>> David MacKinnon
>> Hull#162 Figment
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>> However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However, water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
>>
>>
>> I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up & why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
>>
>>
>> As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete system but I have not been able to find one.
>>
>>
>> David MacKinnon
>> Hull#162 Figment
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:43:51 -0500
> From: Scott Thompson <surp...@thompson87.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] More Bilge Pump Questions
> Message-ID: <5460C117...@thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>>
>> However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However, water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
>>
>>
>> I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up & why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
>>
>>
>> As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete system but I have not been able to find one.
>>
>>
>> David MacKinnon
>> Hull#162 Figment
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>> However, whilst trying to get rid of the water using the bilge pump I found that the water was not being ejected from the bilge so I changed the pump and tested that it was working satisfactorily. However, water was still not leaving the bilge after I tested it installed.
>>
>>
>> I had read on the forum that there might have been a relationship between the bilge pump and the shower pump so I turned on the shower pump, with the bilge pump manually activated, and most of the water left the bilge. I do not understand how the bilge pump is set up & why the shower pump seems to be connected to the outlet from the bilge pump, as that seems like a pretty ridiculous thing to do to me. Can anyone enlighten me about how the plumbing is connected in the early model 320s? I had also tried the manual pump previously but got no results so I am a little concerned about the safety aspects of this.
>>
>>
>> As an aside to that, where is the thru the hull outlet for the bilge pump? I have looked everywhere to find a schematic of the complete system but I have not been able to find one.
>>
>>
>> David MacKinnon
>> Hull#162 Figment
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 09:55:19 -0600
> From: Dean Vermeire <de...@vermeire.us>
> To: Catalina 320 List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
> Message-ID: <5460DFE7...@vermeire.us>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> If this information is already posted, I apologize for the repetitive
> redundancy...
>
> I had some difficulty getting the MarineAir A/C to suck in antifreeze
> from the seawater inlet hose. I'm guessing that it needs the water
> pressure it gets through the thru-hull. None the less I found the
> following steps to be very easy and effective. Keep in mind that I put
> a new ball valve with a waste drain on the thru-hull. I find it
> difficult to remove the water inlet hose from the thru-hull or the
> strainer without bloodying my hands. However, the hoses are very easy
> to remove from the air conditioner unit, since the fittings are not barbed.
>
> 1. Turn off the power to the air conditioner.
> 2. Close the thru-hull ball valve
> 3. Remove the drain plug from the strainer. This will get quite a bit
> of the water out of the system.
> 4. Disconnect the outlet (upper) hose from the air conditioner unit.
> This is under the starboard helm seat on our boat.
> 5. Blow out the water in the outlet (overboard) hose. I use either a
> shop vac or an inflator air pump.
> 6. Disconnect the inlet (lower) hose from the air conditioner unit.
> 7. Blow out the air conditioner from outlet (upper) fitting, or vacuum
> out from the inlet (lower) fitting. The water probably has already
> drained out anyway.
> 8. Using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow any remaining
> water through the hose, pump, and strainer.
> 9. Put the strainer drain plug back in.
> 10. Remove the waste drain cap from the water inlet ball valve on the
> thru-hull.
> 11. Again using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow out any
> remaining water.
> 12. Put the waste drain cap back on the ball valve.
> 13. Optionally, if you really want to use antifreeze, pour it in through
> the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit.
> 14. Reconnect the hoses on the air conditioner unit.
>
> There you go. Quick and easy. No blood.
>
> Dean Vermeire
> Moonstruck II (#847)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 09:59:05 -0600
> From: Dean Vermeire <de...@vermeire.us>
> To: Catalina 320 List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
> Message-ID: <5460E0C9...@vermeire.us>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> I forgot to mention that I was winterizing with the boat in the water,
> in case you are wondering why I didn't just open the thru-hull and blow
> out the water.
> Dean
>
> On 11/10/2014 9:55 AM, Dean Vermeire wrote:
>> If this information is already posted, I apologize for the repetitive
>> redundancy...
>>
>> I had some difficulty getting the MarineAir A/C to suck in antifreeze
>> from the seawater inlet hose. I'm guessing that it needs the water
>> pressure it gets through the thru-hull. None the less I found the
>> following steps to be very easy and effective. Keep in mind that I put
>> a new ball valve with a waste drain on the thru-hull. I find it
>> difficult to remove the water inlet hose from the thru-hull or the
>> strainer without bloodying my hands. However, the hoses are very easy
>> to remove from the air conditioner unit, since the fittings are not
>> barbed.
>>
>> 1. Turn off the power to the air conditioner.
>> 2. Close the thru-hull ball valve
>> 3. Remove the drain plug from the strainer. This will get quite a bit
>> of the water out of the system.
>> 4. Disconnect the outlet (upper) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> This is under the starboard helm seat on our boat.
>> 5. Blow out the water in the outlet (overboard) hose. I use either a
>> shop vac or an inflator air pump.
>> 6. Disconnect the inlet (lower) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> 7. Blow out the air conditioner from outlet (upper) fitting, or vacuum
>> out from the inlet (lower) fitting. The water probably has already
>> drained out anyway.
>> 8. Using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow any remaining
>> water through the hose, pump, and strainer.
>> 9. Put the strainer drain plug back in.
>> 10. Remove the waste drain cap from the water inlet ball valve on the
>> thru-hull.
>> 11. Again using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow out any
>> remaining water.
>> 12. Put the waste drain cap back on the ball valve.
>> 13. Optionally, if you really want to use antifreeze, pour it in through
>> the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit.
>> 14. Reconnect the hoses on the air conditioner unit.
>>
>> There you go. Quick and easy. No blood.
>>
>> Dean Vermeire
>> Moonstruck II (#847)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 10:59:17 -0500
> From: "WINDER & KIRONDE" <wcwi...@comcast.net>
> To: <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <01da01cffcff$48929620$d9b7c260$@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are
> near the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more
> easily run wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to
> rerun the wires somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the
> bilge pump exit piping and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam
> near the galley sole. Water going into the bilge from the engine
> compartment through the Catalina installed tubes backs up through the
> difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The
> problem here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge
> pump does not come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2
> inches, all of the compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if
> there is a little water at the bilge pump area there is a little water
> in every compartment, and it stays there indefinitely unless you pull
> up the sole boards and dry out each bilge compartment. The only
> solution to this problem is to somehow block the tubes forward of the
> bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward compartments.
>
> Bill Winder
> INDIGO #97
> Winthrop MA
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 11:30:44 -0500
> From: "Rick Sulewski" <rsul...@bex.net>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
> Message-ID: <000001cffd03$ade8fb50$09baf1f0$@bex.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have to respond because the winterization process I was directed to use by
> my AC installer takes all of about 10 minutes, is completed while the boat
> is on the hard and the only tools involved are a screw driver and a funnel:
> 1st step - simply disconnect the AC water flow exit hose from the above the
> water thru-hull and blow air into that exit hose to reverse the existing AC
> water that will then exit from the AC water intake (being sure the seacock
> is open). No need to use anything other than bringing the hose to your
> mouth, being careful naturally to NOT INHALE thru the hose and listen for
> the water to clear the intake thru-hull, or when there is no longer
> pressure; 2nd Step - remove the water from the AC filter/strainer; 3rd step:
> pour antifreeze with a funnel into that same exit hose you just blew clear
> until the top of the hose fills, and then proceed to blow air into that hose
> to force antifreeze into the unit. Repeat until about a 1/3rd of a gallon of
> antifreeze is used (in my case the AC/Heat unit is located in the port
> locker). 4th step -reattach the exit hose and remove the antifreeze from the
> filter/strainer. I leave the AC seacock open when I launch and start up
> the AC/Heat immediately upon returning the dock and have never had an
> issue, or even an airlock error message.
> Rick
> My-Ria; 95 C320 Hull #277
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
> Of Dean Vermeire
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:59 AM
> To: Catalina 320 List
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the Air Conditioner
>
> I forgot to mention that I was winterizing with the boat in the water, in
> case you are wondering why I didn't just open the thru-hull and blow out the
> water.
> Dean
>
> On 11/10/2014 9:55 AM, Dean Vermeire wrote:
>> If this information is already posted, I apologize for the repetitive
>> redundancy...
>>
>> I had some difficulty getting the MarineAir A/C to suck in antifreeze
>> from the seawater inlet hose. I'm guessing that it needs the water
>> pressure it gets through the thru-hull. None the less I found the
>> following steps to be very easy and effective. Keep in mind that I put
>> a new ball valve with a waste drain on the thru-hull. I find it
>> difficult to remove the water inlet hose from the thru-hull or the
>> strainer without bloodying my hands. However, the hoses are very easy
>> to remove from the air conditioner unit, since the fittings are not
>> barbed.
>>
>> 1. Turn off the power to the air conditioner.
>> 2. Close the thru-hull ball valve
>> 3. Remove the drain plug from the strainer. This will get quite a bit
>> of the water out of the system.
>> 4. Disconnect the outlet (upper) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> This is under the starboard helm seat on our boat.
>> 5. Blow out the water in the outlet (overboard) hose. I use either a
>> shop vac or an inflator air pump.
>> 6. Disconnect the inlet (lower) hose from the air conditioner unit.
>> 7. Blow out the air conditioner from outlet (upper) fitting, or vacuum
>> out from the inlet (lower) fitting. The water probably has already
>> drained out anyway.
>> 8. Using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow any remaining
>> water through the hose, pump, and strainer.
>> 9. Put the strainer drain plug back in.
>> 10. Remove the waste drain cap from the water inlet ball valve on the
>> thru-hull.
>> 11. Again using the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit, blow out any
>> remaining water.
>> 12. Put the waste drain cap back on the ball valve.
>> 13. Optionally, if you really want to use antifreeze, pour it in through
>> the inlet hose at the air conditioner unit.
>> 14. Reconnect the hoses on the air conditioner unit.
>>
>> There you go. Quick and easy. No blood.
>>
>> Dean Vermeire
>> Moonstruck II (#847)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 11:33:41 -0500
> From: "Rick Sulewski" <rsul...@bex.net>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <000101cffd04$17622c00$46268400$@bex.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Bill,
> Did you see my message below on the list I sent on Nov 6th as follows?
>
> Bill,
> Regarding the shallow bilge: The solution that I found workable over the
> last 20 seasons is to contain the bilge water in the first compartment where
> the pump is located by plugging & sealing the drain hole leading to the
> other forward compartments. There is certainly a risk and requires a
> periodic check of the forward most compartment ahead of the mast (where my
> transducers are located). I simply keep that smaller forward floor panel
> unattached because it lies tightly in its place and can be easily lifted to
> check if there is any moisture (that has never occurred over the years). If
> the keel bolts begin to leak, moisture will also appear in the forward most
> compartment. The normal trick to keeping a dry bilge and any water from
> intruding under the liner is to use Gortex shaft packing and/or removing any
> water in the first bilge compartment to avoid excess water from sloshing out
> and then under the liner while sailing.
> Rick
> My-Ria, 95 C320 #277
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
> Of WINDER & KIRONDE
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:59 AM
> To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
>
> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are near
> the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more easily run
> wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to rerun the wires
> somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the bilge pump exit piping
> and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam near the galley sole. Water
> going into the bilge from the engine compartment through the Catalina
> installed tubes backs up through the difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The problem
> here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge pump does not
> come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2 inches, all of the
> compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if there is a little water
> at the bilge pump area there is a little water in every compartment, and it
> stays there indefinitely unless you pull up the sole boards and dry out each
> bilge compartment. The only solution to this problem is to somehow block the
> tubes forward of the bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward
> compartments.
>
> Bill Winder
> INDIGO #97
> Winthrop MA
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 15:44:25 -0500
> From: Warren Updike <wup...@hotmail.com>
> To: <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] What happened to the list???
> Message-ID: <COL129-DS27A0D96B8...@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I just realized that I haven't been getting list mail, either individually
> or in a digest. Is it just me or is the list down? I checked my list
> settings on the web site and everything looks A-OK.
>
>
>
> Warren and Pattie Updike
>
> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 16:04:43 -0500
> From: Marek Fluder <mar...@gmail.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] What happened to the list???
> Message-ID:
> <CAH_L7eDtt7=FcVh72kh8R-D7u8L3hgxODzRYHxb=n+ogj...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Warren,
>
> Everything seems OK for me - there were few messages today as you can see
> here:
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/c320-list
>
> Marek
> #1028
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 3:44 PM, Warren Updike <wup...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I just realized that I haven't been getting list mail, either individually
>> or in a digest. Is it just me or is the list down? I checked my list
>> settings on the web site and everything looks A-OK.
>>
>>
>>
>> Warren and Pattie Updike
>>
>> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 18:27:46 -0500
> From: "Jerry Taylor" <je...@jerrytaylorhomes.com>
> To: <C320...@catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Piper Adventures sail blog
> Message-ID: <BA5126ADAD6C4B41AA761B09D039190B@TaylorHP>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am on Piper heading down the ICW. Although late, I have started a blog which helps to manage time tremendously. If you would like to follow along, the link is www.sailblogs.com/member/piperadventures/. You do not need to register or login to view.
>
> I met with Karl and Elaine M. last week in Oriental, NC and we had a nice time with drinks on Piper and a delicious dinner out. Yes, Elaine...I did eat the whole thing (strombolini with meatballs). Karl has agreed to put the remaining photos that I took of the Rendezvous on the website along with captions since he knows more of the folks than I do. It is quite a job for him and we will get back to you when completed.
>
> I also had a nice dinner with Chris Burti (Mainsheet Technical Editor) in Beaufort, NC and it was good to be able to put the face with the name. A lot of partying for the old guy!
>
> I plan to run for a third term as your VC. A board meeting conference call is scheduled for tomorrow evening and voting will take place in the very near future. I would appreciate your vote one more time.
>
> Regards,
> Jerry
>
> Piper #1128
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 10:35:08 +1100
> From: Stephen Cox <sc...@timmin.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, WINDER & KIRONDE
> <wcwi...@comcast.net>, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <5AF9A6F8-6DDA-408D...@timmin.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> On November 11, 2014 2:59:17 AM GMT+11:00, WINDER & KIRONDE <wcwi...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
>> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
>> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are
>> near the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more
>> easily run wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to
>> rerun the wires somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the
>> bilge pump exit piping and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam
>> near the galley sole. Water going into the bilge from the engine
>> compartment through the Catalina installed tubes backs up through the
>> difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
>> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
>> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
>> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The
>> problem here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge
>> pump does not come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2
>> inches, all of the compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if
>> there is a little water at the bilge pump area there is a little water
>> in every compartment, and it stays there indefinitely unless you pull
>> up the sole boards and dry out each bilge compartment. The only
>> solution to this problem is to somehow block the tubes forward of the
>> bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward compartments.
>>
>> Bill Winder
>> INDIGO #97
>> Winthrop MA
>
> I have fitted a Rule 1100 Electronic Automatic Bilge Pump to my C320. It detects water by spinning up very briefly every couple of minutes and senses the load. If there is water present it will pump it otherwise sleep again. It comes on with far less than 1 1/2" of water present and costumes negligible power over time if there is nothing to pump.
>
> Stephen Cox
> Tegwen #1141
> --
> Stephen Cox
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 17:34:11 -0500
> From: wfl...@aim.com
> To: c320...@catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Winterizing the AC
> Message-ID: <8D1CB4D95287...@webmail-va171.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> This probably will not make it to the thread because recently not many of my submissions do.
>
> I have pictures of the "T" I added to both the a/c intake and engine raw water intake to keep from having to remove any water lines. (see technical photos key word "winterize". I overcome the inability of the pumps to pick up prime by running my antifreeze supply tubing out the aft port-lite and and adding antifreeze from the cockpit. the added head above the pumps enables them to pick up prime immediately.
>
> Bill
> #1146
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 10:35:08 +1100
> From: Stephen Cox <sc...@timmin.com>
> To: C320...@Catalina320.com, WINDER & KIRONDE
> <wcwi...@comcast.net>, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shallow Bilge '94 C320
> Message-ID: <5AF9A6F8-6DDA-408D...@timmin.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> On November 11, 2014 2:59:17 AM GMT+11:00, WINDER & KIRONDE <wcwi...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Hi Elizabeth and all that responded,
>> I did finally find the instructions from Catalina. Here is the
>> problem: There are already some holes into the hollow beams. Some are
>> near the bottom that have been used by Brewer Yacht Yard to more
>> easily run wiring for previous owner equipment adds, so I have to
>> rerun the wires somehow or just caulk them in. Also there are the
>> bilge pump exit piping and fridge drain piping that penetrate the beam
>> near the galley sole. Water going into the bilge from the engine
>> compartment through the Catalina installed tubes backs up through the
>> difficult to seal pipe penetrations.
>> Catalina also installed fiberglass tubes connecting most of the bilge
>> compartments, not just from the engine bilge as shown in the Catalina
>> directive. (these do not take water from inside the beams.) The
>> problem here is that as all compartments are connected and the bilge
>> pump does not come on until the water level is up to about 1 1/2
>> inches, all of the compartments flood before the pump comes on. So if
>> there is a little water at the bilge pump area there is a little water
>> in every compartment, and it stays there indefinitely unless you pull
>> up the sole boards and dry out each bilge compartment. The only
>> solution to this problem is to somehow block the tubes forward of the
>> bilge pump and periodically inspecting the forward compartments.
>>
>> Bill Winder
>> INDIGO #97
>> Winthrop MA
>
> I have fitted a Rule 1100 Electronic Automatic Bilge Pump to my C320. It detects water by spinning up very briefly every couple of minutes and senses the load. If there is water present it will pump it otherwise sleep again. It comes on with far less than 1 1/2" of water present and costumes negligible power over time if there is nothing to pump.
>
> Stephen Cox
> Tegwen #1141
> --
> Stephen Cox
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 08:01:03 -0500
> From: Louis Spitz <aron...@gmail.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
> Message-ID: <29B4C91A-BB1D-42B8...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> My rub rail was chewed up by the yard when the boat was on the hard. The damage was limited to about 8?. Also, about 4 ? came out of the ?track?. Where can I get a new rail, or get the existing one repaired?
>
> Lou Spitz
> #195
> Merry Chase
>
>> On Oct 11, 2014, at 8:49 AM, mill...@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the feedback on the rub rail issue. I will let you know how it goes.
>> Art #680
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jeff Hare <Cata...@thehares.com>
>> To: C320-List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
>> Sent: Thu, Oct 9, 2014 6:49 pm
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>
>>
>> BTW, while the rubber is out of the rub rail, use the opportunity to ensure
>> that all the screws holding the track in place are snugged up. Then dab
>> each one with a smear of silicone if you have any on hand.
>>
>> -Jeff Hare
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>> Of Alan Goodman
>> Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 4:39 PM
>> To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>> Subject: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>
>> Art - I had a similar issue. I used a rubber mallet. The back side of the
>> vinyl profile is "taller" than the receiving "track" in the stainless. You
>> need to place the bottom of the vinyl profile inside the lower track lip and
>> use the mallet by striking the top of the vinyl rub rail in a "down and in"
>> direction. The top portion of the profile will snap into the top of the
>> track. BTW, acetone generally removes all marks from the vinyl insert and
>> leaves it looking new. I don't think the silicon is a good idea in that it
>> may make it easier for the vinyl profile to later pull out. Also, depending
>> in if the 'incident' moved the vinyl profile laterally, you may need to
>> adjust the lateral positioning to get a perfect lay flat. Alan Hull 67
>> Holland MI
>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 19:21:21 -0400
>>> From: mill...@aol.com
>>> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>> Message-ID: <8D1B165B430A...@webmail-vm025.sysops.aol.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>
>>>
>>> High winds the last several days on the Long Island sound. Got pushed
>>> against a piling leaving a dock and had about 24" of rub rail (hard
>>> rubber/??) on the Port beam pop out of it's retaining track. I have tried
>> some silicon spray on the track, while trying to wedge it
>>> back in place with a scrapper blade and mallet. Also tried applying some
>> heat.... no luck.
>>> Surely, someone has experienced this problem???? Any recommendations
>>> on how to fix are welcome.
>>> Art #680
>>>
>>>
>> =
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 13:01:52 +0000
> From: Chris Nichols <cini...@btinternet.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing the AC
> Message-ID: <A13641C0-D902-45CF...@btinternet.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> No idea of the long term implications of the approach but when my ac hoses were tough to budge I simply applied compressed air to the thru-hull water inlet and blew the water through the system. All worked fine for 5 years so far with this approach in boston.
>
> For engine I used the t-junction installed by the p.o.
>
> Chris
> Amanda rose
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 10 Nov 2014, at 22:34, wfl...@aim.com wrote:
>>
>> This probably will not make it to the thread because recently not many of my submissions do.
>>
>> I have pictures of the "T" I added to both the a/c intake and engine raw water intake to keep from having to remove any water lines. (see technical photos key word "winterize". I overcome the inability of the pumps to pick up prime by running my antifreeze supply tubing out the aft port-lite and and adding antifreeze from the cockpit. the added head above the pumps enables them to pick up prime immediately.
>>
>> Bill
>> #1146
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 08:19:26 -0500
> From: Diane Fowler <dian...@aol.com>
> To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
> Message-ID: <1A796D64-20F7-4BAC...@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Get a rubber mallet & hair dryer. Warm rubber rub rail & carefully pound it back in. Windy City #948. Cape Coral, fL
>
> Capt. Diane fowler, 239-850-4935.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 11, 2014, at 8:01 AM, Louis Spitz <aron...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> My rub rail was chewed up by the yard when the boat was on the hard. The damage was limited to about 8?. Also, about 4 ? came out of the ?track?. Where can I get a new rail, or get the existing one repaired?
>>
>> Lou Spitz
>> #195
>> Merry Chase
>>
>>> On Oct 11, 2014, at 8:49 AM, mill...@aol.com wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the feedback on the rub rail issue. I will let you know how it goes.
>>> Art #680
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Jeff Hare <Cata...@thehares.com>
>>> To: C320-List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
>>> Sent: Thu, Oct 9, 2014 6:49 pm
>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>>
>>>
>>> BTW, while the rubber is out of the rub rail, use the opportunity to ensure
>>> that all the screws holding the track in place are snugged up. Then dab
>>> each one with a smear of silicone if you have any on hand.
>>>
>>> -Jeff Hare
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>>> Of Alan Goodman
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2014 4:39 PM
>>> To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>>> Subject: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>>
>>> Art - I had a similar issue. I used a rubber mallet. The back side of the
>>> vinyl profile is "taller" than the receiving "track" in the stainless. You
>>> need to place the bottom of the vinyl profile inside the lower track lip and
>>> use the mallet by striking the top of the vinyl rub rail in a "down and in"
>>> direction. The top portion of the profile will snap into the top of the
>>> track. BTW, acetone generally removes all marks from the vinyl insert and
>>> leaves it looking new. I don't think the silicon is a good idea in that it
>>> may make it easier for the vinyl profile to later pull out. Also, depending
>>> in if the 'incident' moved the vinyl profile laterally, you may need to
>>> adjust the lateral positioning to get a perfect lay flat. Alan Hull 67
>>> Holland MI
>>>
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Message: 1
>>>> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 19:21:21 -0400
>>>> From: mill...@aol.com
>>>> To: C320...@Catalina320.com
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull rub rail
>>>> Message-ID: <8D1B165B430A...@webmail-vm025.sysops.aol.com>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> High winds the last several days on the Long Island sound. Got pushed
>>>> against a piling leaving a dock and had about 24" of rub rail (hard
>>>> rubber/??) on the Port beam pop out of it's retaining track. I have tried
>>> some silicon spray on the track, while trying to wedge it
>>>> back in place with a scrapper blade and mallet. Also tried applying some
>>> heat.... no luck.
>>>> Surely, someone has experienced this problem???? Any recommendations
>>>> on how to fix are welcome.
>>>> Art #680
>>> =
>>
>
>
> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 2195, Issue 1
> ******************************************
Dick Walker
Nov 11, 2014, 11:11:52 PM11/11/14
to C320...@catalina320.com, c320...@lists.catalina320.com
thar...@innovations-plus.com
Nov 12, 2014, 12:14:41 AM11/12/14
to C320...@catalina320.com
David, give me a call tomorrow at noon we can chat.
We can talk about water in the bilge
Hull 424 1997
905-430-3365.
Sent from my iPhone
We can talk about water in the bilge
Hull 424 1997
905-430-3365.
Sent from my iPhone
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