[C320-list] Refrigerator Replacement - 1995 Hull 268

[Cliff Lee]

It is time to replace the fridge after 25 years. While I think the
evaporator may be the problem, better to replace in whole and get the
efficiency improvement. I've read a lot of the threads on the C320 site,
but I would appreciate your thoughts on:
1. There is a long, thin wood veneer running along the port side of our
aft berth, about 2 feet above the mattress. We have routinely had moisture
at the forward point of the veneer over the years. I suspect it may be
condensation around the refrigerant tubing leaving the fridge, but don't
really know. I can't find any other leaks in that area. I am thinking I
may need to remove that veneer anyway to gain access to run the new
refrigerant tubing from the fridge to the port aft locker where our
compressor/condenser is/will be. Does this sound right and how difficult
is it to remove that veneer?
2. Suggestions for make/model of fridge? We currently have an older
Adler-Barbour evaporator mounted vertically on the left side (looking in)
of the fridge compartment, with the compressor and condenser on a shelf in
the aft port locker - that seems like a good spot for us, since there is a
lot of room for cooling air circulation.
3. How difficult is this project really? I'm not looking forward to
contorting myself but have been told it is not bad and costs for
professional installation can be pretty high.

Thanks,
Cliff Lee - Comfort Zone 1995 - Hull 268

[Jack Brennan]

Hi Cliff:

1) The veneer is just a couple of screws. I too had condensation when some of the plumber’s putty around the refrigerant tube went awry. It will cost you a couple of dollars to buy a new can, and all should be fine.
2) I bought the new model of the Adler-Barbour Cold Machine from Defender. Works fine and reasonably priced. Buy a new evaporator, too, because I believe the fittings have changed. I can’t speak for other models, but 320 owners seem reasonably pleased with them, too.
3) You’ll hold your breath at times, but it’s not difficult if you pay close attention to the directions and the threads here on how to run the tubing through the passage. You have to be able to climb down into the port stern locker and move around a little.

These units are much more efficient than the old ones. I’m guessing I use 35-45 amps to keep the fridge running in a hot West Florida summer; much less than that around now.

Jack Brennan
Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from Mail for Windows 10

[Graeme Clark]

At the risk of hijacking the thread, I think better insulation around the icebox would also help efficiency. Modern polyurethane rigid foam is so much more effcient than it was 25 years ago when my boat was built. But I cannot work out how to remove the worktop without causing damage. Has anyone done that?

Graeme

#366, 1996

> On 18 Jan 2021, at 17:16, Jack Brennan <jackb...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Cliff:
>
> 1) The veneer is just a couple of screws. I too had condensation when some of the plumber’s putty around the refrigerant tube went awry. It will cost you a couple of dollars to buy a new can, and all should be fine.
> 2) I bought the new model of the Adler-Barbour Cold Machine from Defender. Works fine and reasonably priced. Buy a new evaporator, too, because I believe the fittings have changed. I can’t speak for other models, but 320 owners seem reasonably pleased with them, too.
> 3) You’ll hold your breath at times, but it’s not difficult if you pay close attention to the directions and the threads here on how to run the tubing through the passage. You have to be able to climb down into the port stern locker and move around a little.
>
> These units are much more efficient than the old ones. I’m guessing I use 35-45 amps to keep the fridge running in a hot West Florida summer; much less than that around now.
>
> Jack Brennan
> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
> From: Cliff Lee
> Sent: Monday, January 18, 2021 11:56 AM
> To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com TtS
> Subject: [C320-list] Refrigerator Replacement - 1995 Hull 268
>

[John morrison]

I installed a Nova Kool LT201 compressor with the RT6 freezer box. Cost 1200CAD and draws less than 3A when running on slow speed. If you’re handy the job is very easy and the Cu tubing goes directly from the coolbox into the port lazarette, where the compressor is situated. 12V wiring easily adapted to the new unit.The freezer box is larger than the original so I mounted it on the back wall of the coolbox. Imagine just turning the original freezer box 90degrees from it’s position on the left hand end of the coolbox.
This has come up a number of times so I guess I could prep a short article with pics for Mainsheet?
Regards
JohnM
1999#574

[Tim Hoffert]

I just changed our fridge a couple weeks ago in our 1999 (hull 612). We
replaced the original Adler Barbour system with a completely new Dometic
system using the CU 100 condenser and VD 150 evaporator. It's winter time
in Michigan, so other than testing to make sure it works, I haven't been
able to run it, so can't speak to efficiency, etc. I've not noticed any
moisture in the aft cabin either, but we've only had the boat since July
and the fridge never worked, so it's something I'll have to keep an eye
on. But, I can speak to the installation. Not too difficult. The
included directions are pretty good (there is a copy on the Defender
website if you want to see it before you buy it), but I did learn a few
things specific to our boat that would have helped make things go quite a
bit quicker and easier:

1. Most materials you'll need are included the two packages, but not
everything. You'll need some additional screws for the condenser (or reuse
the existing if in good condition), additional zip ties, plumber putty or
some other sort of sealant for the hole in the ice box (the installation
manual suggests Mortite-I was able to find a similar product at Home Depot
and it worked great), and refrigerant oil to lubricate the threads on the
refrigerant lines-this can be purchased at an auto parts store. I had to
go to a couple stores to find something in a small bottle as you only need
a tiny bit.

2. When removing the old unit, you may or may not have an issue with the
old refrigerant leaking out when you disconnect the lines. I was a little
nervous about this because I had the old fittings and heard mixed opinions
as to what would happen when I cracked them open. I loosened a little,
listened for hissing and watched for leakage to test, and upon
hearing/seeing nothing, loosened a little more. I had no issues-nothing
came out. I know for sure there was refrigerant in the system because I
could hear it moving around the evaporator when I tried to run the old
unit. Not sure what your experience will be with a 1995. Given the
environmental rule, you may want to have someone evacuate the system to be
safe-it's up to you how you want to handle it.

3. Not sure about 1995, but in 1999 there is conduit running from just
behind the fridge to just below the shelf the condenser is mounted to.
It's specifically for the fridge lines and nothing else. Once you've
disconnected the condenser, tie a mouse line to the end and pull the old
lines through.

4. When you're ready to install the new evaporator, unroll the entire coil
of copper tubing-it'll run up to the v-berth. Be sure to wrap the
thermostat wire around the tubing at this point. It's a pain to run it
through separately after the copper tubing is already in the conduit. Ask
me how I know!

5. When running the tubing through the conduit, I found it best to have
two helpers. I pulled on the mouse line from the aft locker, had one
helper feeding into the fridge box, and another helper holding the
evaporator and walking it from the v-birth to the galley. The hole in my
fridge box a little small to fit both connector ends at the same time. I
was able to offset the connectors a little so they went through one at a
time and was able to get everything through without enlarging the hole.

6. Make sure you push the foam covering through with the tubing. You want
the foam to start just outside the box and run through the conduit and into
the aft locker. Again, a real pain if you try to pull the foam through
after the tubing is already in the conduit.

7. All of the evaporator mounting holes line up exactly with the old
holes-very convenient!

8. The new condenser parts are oriented a little different than the old
one. On my old one, the refrigerant lines connected on the aft side of the
condenser unit and the electrical connection was on the forward side. On
the new one, they are both on the same end. In my case, the power wires
weren't long enough to reach the new location. Rather than run new wires
or extend them, I turned the condenser unit 180 degrees. There was a
little gap at the forward corner of the shelf near where the bulkhead,
shelf, and hull meet. I was able to run the refrigerant lines through this
hole. I put a little of the Mortite putty in there to prevent rubbing. I
do think the refrigerant lines are actually more protected this way than
with the factory installation, and my excess line is in a nice large loop
zip tied to the bottom of the shelf.

9. You will need to get down into the aft locker. It's a tight fit. I
don't consider myself small, but was able to get in there. I recommend
having a helper on the outside to hand you tools and supplies!

Tim Hoffert
1999 C320-Hull 612.

[Doug Treff]

Tim,

I'm about to embark on this same project. Thank you for this detailed post. It definitely answered some of my questions, and also a few questions I didn't know I had. ;-)

THIS RIGHT HERE is why this email group and the association are so valuable!

--
Doug Treff
do...@treff.us