[C320-list] Refrigeration Diagnostics Assistance

[Ken McCrimmon]

Hi
10 days ago, I left KIA ORA (2003 Catalina 320) plugged into shore power with the fridge running. with a couple of beers and some water.
I came back this weekend and the fridge was not running. The switch was still on and the shore power plugged in. I know that the yard would have unplugged to boat to do some other work during the week.
Normally, I can hear the compressor running but nothing. I checked the thermostat, I reset the switch on the electrical panel, nothing seemed to make a difference.
I tried to find the compressor. I thought it might be in the port locker but what i thought might be the compressor was actually the battery charger. I did not look in the port stern locker. Did not think about that until now.
I put a block of ice in the fridge for the weekend, which created another problem, lots of water in the bottom of the fridge.


1. Is there a fuse or circuit breaker that i should be checking?
2. Anybody know where else to look for the compressor?
3. I thought there was a drain for the fridge (based on some other reading on the C320 Association site) but I could not find it. I tried to get the water out manually (jcloths, tea towels, etc) I either need a manual pump or really big sponge. Is there a drain in the cold box and if so, is there something i need to do to open it. Assume it drains into the bilge.

I tried getting into the 320 site to do more research but i am having password issues today

Thanks
Ken

[Rene' Thruston]

Our compressor is in the port stern locker. Our fridge is tied into the
shower sump pump. We have a red valve under our sink in the head. Open that
and let the water fill up the drain area for the shower. When it gets high
enough turn on the pump. Turn off pump and let it refill. Continue until
fridge is empty.

On Mon, Jun 21, 2021 at 2:40 PM Ken McCrimmon <kenmcc...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

[John Stetson]

Our frig drains into the bilge. No need to open anything. It triggers the
bilge pump for a short time.

John Stetson
Morning Star Again
Hull#578

On Mon, Jun 21, 2021 at 2:40 PM Ken McCrimmon <kenmcc...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

[Jack Brennan]

Hi Ken:

The unit should be in the port stern locker. I don’t know what model fridge you have, so it would be a good idea to get some ID off the unit and look up the manual.

Usually, there are three possibilities. 1) No power is getting to the unit. 2) The thermostat is dead. 3) The unit has died of old age.

The first thing to check (after disconnecting the 110 volt cord) is the electrical panel. Use a multimeter or test light to make sure that adequate voltage (12+) is entering and coming out of the breaker. It’s also possible the one of the red wires came off the breaker.

The Cold Machine that came with my boat also had one or two car-type fuses on the small computer board mounted on the Cold Machine. The manual should tell you how to disconnect it, test it and determine whether the thermostat is bad.

If the unit is bad, which is very possible after 18 years, the best choice is just to replace it with a new unit. They are much more efficient and draw a lotless amperage.

Good luck.

Jack Brennan
Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
Tierra Verde, Fl.



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

[Michael Paris]

Ken,
It’s in the port stern locker in the farthest aft corner on a shelf. Also, there is a breaker switch in that locker that is basically on the inside of where the shore power plug is. I’ve tripped that a few times just crawling out of the locker. That breaker is flipped would be my guess.

Take care,
Mike
#734

[Doug Treff]

Ken,

Same thing happened to me last year. Check in the port side aft locker, there should be a shelf. The Fridge compressor sits on that shelf. The easiest way to see it is by sticking your head through the access panel in the aft bunk and look to your right. There is a fuse on the side of the compressor that you can check. It is behind where some wires attach. Take a photo of how those wires are attached before you remove them to get to the fuse. There is a removable gray cover sticking down and once you pull that, you will probably find a blue 15-amp automotive-style fuse inside. Also, inspect your compressor thoroughly for rust or other evidence of getting wet.

In my case, the fridge died a watery death because the propane locker drain was clogged, the locker filled up, and water dripped through a hole where the wiring for the propane solenoid wires pass through. I guess the control board got wet, and it stopped working. My fuse was NOT blown. I weighed the option of replacing the control board vs. buying a new fridge unit and decided that I didn't want to put a lot of money into a 24-year-old unit (my boat is a 1996 model). Not to mention, there was a lot of rust and evidence of continued water damage, so I didn't know if it had other hidden damage that caused the failure. I have made a few posts on the Catalina 320 group on Facebook with photos of the rust and damage to the original machine, as well as my new install if you want to see.

Once I decided to do the replacement, I found the job was not terribly difficult, except for the crawling in and out of the aft locker repeatedly. Lots of boat-yago involved. Having a helper to fetch tools and hand them to you would make it a lot easier.

I will say that there is currently a supply-chain issue and finding a new Dometic unit and matched evaporator plate in stock somewhere could be a challenge. I bought the Dometic CU-100 compressor and VD-150 evaporator plate. They are an exact match for what was originally supplied with the boat.

If you can fix it by replacing a blown fuse or having a professional service it, that may be the quickest option.

--
Doug Treff
do...@treff.us

[KEN GEIGER]

Hi Ken.  Your 320 as a 2003 I newer than our 2000 #765 and the other responders so there may be differences.
Our fridge is 12volt and controlled by a panel switch assuming the batteries switch is turned on to one or both batteries.  If you are going to leave the fridge on you need to keep the batteries charged some how.  Battery charger needs shore power.  Lose the shore power with fridge on will deplete the batteries.
So you need to id the fridge and it's power source. Do you have a wiring diagram for the boat.  Then find out if you have power to compressor.  The thermostat may have an off position and then clicks to coolness levels. 
Fridge drain on our 2000 is fed to a 3 way valve under the head sink, as is the shower drain.  We select the correct position of the valve, turn on the shower drain switch on panel and then turn on the switch on the vanity wall by toilet.
Ken Geiger Northern Dream 2000 #765



Sent from the all-new AOL app for Android

On Mon, 21 Jun 2021 at 14:40, Ken McCrimmon<kenmcc...@hotmail.com> wrote: Hi

[Chris Burti]

There are trouble lights on the stock unit. I think Karl Mielenhausen posted the trouble shooting guide on the website

Best Regards,
Chris Burti
Commitment #867.

> On Jun 21, 2021, at 3:18 PM, Doug Treff <do...@treff.us> wrote:
>
> Ken,

[Ken McCrimmon]

Thanks, i will look for the trouble shoot guide as soon as i can figure out my password issues.

________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Chris Burti <clb...@gmail.com>
Sent: June 21, 2021 4:30 PM
To: C320...@catalina320.com <C320...@catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Refrigeration Diagnostics Assistance

[pto...@4square.net]

#1037 Has a valve under the sink in the head that switches the shower simp to the refer drain.
Also the refer controller 'Dominic ' is replaceable and if powered up will flash it's error codes on a red led. Use ur phone to record a video.

If you have power you can jumper out the thermostat and the fridge will start if the thermostat is bad, very likely,. BUT don't jumper out anything unless you really understand the wiring. The terminals are clearly marked.

Pat Tormey

________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Chris Burti <clb...@gmail.com>

Sent: Monday, June 21, 2021 4:30:33 PM

To: C320...@catalina320.com <C320...@catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Refrigeration Diagnostics Assistance

[David Prudden]

Ken,
You don’t need to be logged in to find the article. Anyone can search.

https://c320.org/filemgmt/index.php?id=151&query=Trouble+shooting

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 21, 2021, at 4:40 PM, pto...@4square.net wrote:
>
> #1037 Has a valve under the sink in the head that switches the shower simp to the refer drain.

[Dave Hupe]

Ken-
Not to embarrass, but is your main battery switch on since the frig runs off the  DC/batteries even when you are connected to shore power.
Sometimes "It" is something too obvious.
Dave Hupe1994 #32

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Mon, Jun 21, 2021 at 2:40 PM, Ken McCrimmon<kenmcc...@hotmail.com> wrote: Hi

[Troy Dunn]

Ken

Couple of easy items folks sorta glossed over because many folks who post
here already kinda know the basics, but just in case you aren’t tracking on
some simple things to look at.

Your fridge runs off the batteries, so if the batteries have a good charge.
Then your problem is on the DC side of things. If your batteries aren’t
charged then you most likely have an AC charging problem. Can you check
battery voltages and tell us what you have on both batteries? Does your
fridge not come on when either battery is selected? These would be really
helpful with regard to steering you down a good path.

Leaving the fridge running while away for longer than your batteries will
last is always a gamble if your shore power isn’t solid or if folks at the
Marina have a habit of unplugging you or tripping your shore power breaker…

Let us know what you have going on with the batteries.

Cheers

Troy Dunn
Hull #514

[Ken McCrimmon]

Hi Troy
Finally made it back to the boat today
One battery is showing 13.58 on the multimeter and the other is at 13.53

I replaced the 15 amp fuse on the compressor as somebody else suggeted

Tried starting the fridge on either battery

Nothing. No sound from the compressor and no cold in the fridge

What should i try next

Ken



Sent from my Galaxy Tab® S2

-------- Original message --------
From: Troy Dunn <troutw...@gmail.com>
Date: 2021-06-21 9:40 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: C320...@catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Refrigeration Diagnostics Assistance

[Guy Henry]

Make sure the negative lead going back to the electric panel hasn't come
loose.

Guy

On Fri, Jun 25, 2021, 5:43 PM Ken McCrimmon <kenmcc...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

[Christian]

For sanity, you might try opening your control panel, and temp moving the
positive wire on your fridge rocker switch to a different rocker switch
that handles similar amp load. Only reason I mention this is when I
acquired my 320 5 years ago, the previous owner had moved the fridge wire
to a different rocker switch, and I was always curious why he did that.
When I recently tried to repurpose the original fridge rocker switch for a
usb port I mounted, I found out why. The rocker switch had gone dead, and
was able to easily replace. So something you might want to consider
trying, just incase its your console rocker switch.
Christian Caperton #138

[Ken McCrimmon]

Where would I check the negative lead going back to the panel

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Christian <cca...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> For sanity, you might try opening your control panel, and temp moving the

[Christian]

I'm not sure about the negative lead, on my console panel (1994, #138), I
only have positive leads running to each rocker switch, but my fridge
rocker switch had gone bad, which is why I'd suggest temp moving it to
another rocker switch of similar amp capacity, or checking if you are
getting current at your compressor, whichever is easier for you.

On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 5:14 PM Ken McCrimmon <kenmcc...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

[Ken McCrimmon]

I switched the positive leads for the fridge and the vhf radio. The radio work but the fridge still does not. I think we have elminated the rocker switch.

Thanks for that suggestion

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2021, at 6:23 PM, Christian <cca...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure about the negative lead, on my console panel (1994, #138), I

[Bob Borelli]

Try a test lamp, trace the DC positive wire from the rocker switch.
First test for DC positive current on either side of rocker with the test lamp.

The 15 amp fuse and the rocker are on the DC positve conductor.
The ground conductors do not have fuse or switch in the DC negative circuit.

Stick the point of the test lamp into both sides top of fuse.
Light indicates power to the fuse and to the motor.
If light / power both sides, check for corrosion on terminals.
If can't stick points into fuse, stick into the conductor (wire) then tape over penetration.

13.5 volts on a resting battery? No, were you charging the batteries?
Surface voltage on a fully charged over a couple of hours ago would not read over 12.9 volts DC.
If your digital multi-meter is reading 13.5V DC could be something wrong with batteries?

Bob Borell 1995 C320 no. 209

________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Ken McCrimmon <kenmcc...@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2021 6:32 PM
To: C320...@catalina320.com <C320...@catalina320.com>

Subject: Re: [C320-list] Refrigeration Diagnostics Assistance

[Troy Dunn]

I think you are at the point where your best approach would be to pull the
positive and negative wires off the unit and see if you have 12V there.
If you do, are the lights on the unit coming on or not? If they
are…probably a bad board but maybe a bad compressor or perhaps a bad
thermostat. Once you confirm 12V at the unit I think you really have to go
into HVAC troubleshooting mode. One thing is now certain, this has
nothing to do with the AC side of your electrical system.

T

[Troy Dunn]

Bob

Unless you have a load on the batteries a surface charge can last a very
long time depending on environmental conditions and parasitic loads. Plus,
if the boat is at the dock and it's plugged in, the charger is probably
triggered back into absorption so, that's most likely what he's seeing
there.

Our batteries ask for a bulk charge up around 14.9 V (uncompensated).
When we get to our programmed full charge taper current of around 2A on our
562 Ah of total capacity across house and reserve ( 100 Ah ). Our “surface
charge” remains so long that our ACR doesn’t usually disconnect until about
2 hours into sailing with all of our electronics and the autopilot running.
That’s because the ACR thinks it is seeing charge voltage but it’s really
just the surface charge.

YMWV-

T

[Jack Brennan]

This is from the Catalina 36 list. It was written by a tech guy from Dometic named Jacob:

Jack Brennan
Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
Tierra Verde, Fl.

Adler/Barbour Troubleshooting (and Waeco 50, 80, and 90 series)
By: Jacob
These units are simple to troubleshoot, but if for some reason you don’t feel comfortable, or you don’t have the proper equipment, we have a large distributor/dealer network to handle issues in the field. Go to Cruisair.com and find a dealer. Choose your state/location. WHAT IS ON THE WEBSITE IS THE DISTRIBUTORS. THEY MAY BE IN ANOTHER STATE OR A COUPLE HUNDRED MILES AWAY. HOWEVER, IF YOU CONTACT THEM, THEY CAN REFER YOU TO A DEALER LOCATED NEAR YOUR BOAT.

This is a simple troubleshooting guide I’ve made up myself to help when your system is not performing correctly. These are just some scenarios I encounter everyday, and figured I’d put them in this simple, layman’s terms troubleshooting guide. Before you start, there are a couple things you may need to identify. The ColdMachines produced now contain two PC boards on the actual unit. The front one (the one including the LED troubleshooting) will be referred to as just the PC BOARD. The electronic board mounted to the compressor itself is called the DANFOSS MODULE. If your unit only has one board, and no board w/ the LED light, then all you have is the DANFOSS MODULE. Please note, that there is no way to bypass this board to jump the compressor, and DANFOSS HAS NEVER RELEASED ANY INFORMATION TO DOMETIC ON HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT THIS MODULE, OR A SCHEMATIC FOR THE BOARD INSIDE. The compressor is actually a 3 phase AC compressor. If you try and bypass the module, and run 12VDC directly to the compressor IT WILL RUIN THE COMPRESSOR.

If your unit does not have the two PC boards, then there will be a portion at the end of this for your unit.
BY LAW, UNLESS YOU ARE EPA CERTIFIED, YOU CANNOT HANDLE OR WORK WITH ANY KIND OF REFRIGERANT. EVEN THOUGH R134A IS SOLD AT WAL-MART AND AUTO PARTS STORES, YOU ARE NOT ABLE TO HANDLE IT WITH OUT AN EPA CERTIFICATION. DOMETIC CAN NOT ASSIST IN HELPING CHARGE EQUIPMENT WITH SOMEBODY WHO IS NOT EPA CERTIFIED, BECAUSE WE CAN BE HELD LIABLE. REFRIGERANT, IF NOT HANDLED CORRECTLY CAN NOT ONLY CAUSE HARM TO THE OZONE LAYER, BUT CAN CAUSE BODILY HARM, AND LACK OF OXYGEN IF YOU ARE IN A CONFINED SPACE.
Nothing will Start and no LED blinks
1. Make sure you are getting the proper voltage at the input of the unit. AT THE INPUT OF THE UNIT, NOT THE BATTERIES OR THE BREAKER. Be sure that your connections are good, free of corrosion, and are not loose or have fallen out.
2. If so, check to see if you’re getting voltage through the front PC Board to the top two terminals on your Danfoss module (Skip this step, if your unit does not have the front PC Board). If so, go to next step. If not check all the fuses on your front PC Board. The 15a is the main fuse for everything, and the five amp is for the fan/pump circuit. There should be another ½a fuse on the back side of that PC board, that’s in line with the thermostat circuit. Older units did not have this.
3. If you are getting the same voltage through the PC Board to the module, the next thing to do is to bypass the thermostat circuit. To do this, you will need to remove two wires from your Danfoss module, T and C. It will be a brown and black wire. Once these two wires are removed, you will need to make a jumper wire, with two female push on terminals. Put the jumper wire on terminals T and C to bridge the two (you can also use a pair of needle nose pliers or whatever you have laying around to make a connection, there is no voltage present to hurt anything). If the unit still does not start or try to start, then you will need to replace the Danfoss module. If so, proceed to next step.
4. If the compressor does start, then it may be the phone cord end on the tstat, the phone cord connection on the board, or the speed resistor on the inside of the actual tstat housing. To test the speed resistor, unplug it and ohm out across the pins on it. There are three different ones we use, and it should read across either 270, 680, or 1500. These are there to make the compressor run at the proper speed for whatever plate you have.
5. If that checks okay, there is really no way to test the phone cord connections without fancy equipment. Save yourself time and money and just bypass it. Cut the phone cord off the end of the wire coming from the tstat, install some female push ons, and plug them onto terminals C and T. The tstat will work the exact same as it did before.

Now I’ll just go over the different series of blinks you may get if an electronic problem arises. The module has built in troubleshooting capabilities, that you can use a 10ma LED bulb to determine what the module thinks is wrong. The light will blink a series of times, and pause, then continue. This makes these units very simple to troubleshoot. On the newer units, we incorporated this into the front PC board. IF YOUR UNIT DOES NOT HAVE THIS BUILT IN FEATURE, YOU CAN INSTALL YOUR OWN LED ONTO THE MODULE. One end of the LED goes to terminal “D” on the module, and the other will need to be piggy backed onto the positive fan terminal on the module.

One blink – Low Voltage

1. 99% OF TIME WHEN THE MODULE BLINKS THIS, IT IS DEFINITELY LOW VOLTAGE. I have never seen a scenario where this is not the case.
2. If you’re getting this code, then most likely your unit is trying to start, there will be a slight shutter, then it will stop, and continue to do this.
3. Watch the voltage AT THE INPUT OF THE UNIT AS IT’S STARTING AND STOPPING. You will see a significant drop in voltage. The low voltage cut off is 10.4VDC, but you will probably never see it get this low on your meter because of buffers etc installed in the meter. If you see a drop of over .5VDC you have a problem. You will need to track down the boats wiring, find your loose connection/corrosion that’s causing the high resistance. You may even have a weak cell in the battery.
4. If you feel the voltage is sufficient, then the only other problem may be the Danfoss module. However, I have never seen the module fail like this, and it’s an expensive part to replace, for it continue to do the same thing.
ANOTHER THING I’VE FOUND WITH WORKING WITH THESE, IS IF THE UNIT GETS LOW VOLTAGE FOR A PERIOD OF TIME, THE MODULE FAILS. I HAVEN’T BEEN ABLE TO GET DANFOSS TO SAY YE OR NE IF THE LOW VOLTAGE CAUSED IT, BUT THAT’S WHAT USUALLY HAPPENS.

Two blinks – Fan overcurrent Protection Cut Out

1. The module has a feature that if the fan draws more than (1a older modules, .5a newer modules) it will cut everything out. This is simple to troubleshoot.
2. Disconnect the fan terminal from the PC Board (newer) or from terminal F on the Danfoss module. If the unit still blinks, replace the module. If not replace the fan.

Three blinks – Motor Start Error

1. If the compressor cannot achieve a certain RPM in a given time, the module will kick it out.
2. Three things will cause this: pressures have not equalized yet, unit has been overcharged, or the Danfoss module is defective.
3. One, leave the unit off for fifteen minutes, if it starts, then your unit had short cycled for some reason. No need to worry unless it does it all the time.
4. Two, unit was charged recently, and has been overcharged. If the unit is overcharged, the compressor will not be able to get up to speed because it has been overloaded. Get somebody on board who is EPA CERTIFIED, to recover refrigerant according by law and EPA standards.
5. If none of this is the case, then replace the Danfoss module, please remember, there is no way to determine weather it’s the module or the compressor, other than replacing. However, with all the Danfoss compressors I work with every day, I’ve only seen a couple fail.

Four and Five blinks –

1. I hardly ever see these. … Four blinks you’ll have to replace the module.
2. 5 blinks mean lack of ventilation. If the unit runs for a while then flashes this, then it’s a lack of ventilation. Unit needs at least 100 sq inches of air space to operate correctly. It also will not work above 115 degrees without the water cooled option.
3. If the unit flashes 5 times immediately, replace the module.


Everything runs, but my unit is not cooling, or there is minimal cooling…

1. First, check your condenser coil (radiator beside the compressor), and make sure that it’s clean and free of any kind of debris.
2. If all that checks okay, call a technician on board. There is most likely a leak in the system. The leak needs to be found, fixed, and recharged. Once again, MUST BE EPA CERTIFIED.


Danfoss Compressors

Waeco and Adler/Barbour have always used Danfoss compressors; however, they have changed over the years. Rather than get all technical and confusing, there were pretty much two different types of compressors, 3 pin and 4 pin, with 3 being the newest, and 4 the oldest. You will need to remove the module to see how many pins your compressor has. There really is no way to bypass the module, to hard start the compressor. However, you can ohm the compressor pins out, to see if you may have an open or shorted winding. The three pin compressors, you should have 2.3-2.5 ohms between all three pins, and no continuity to ground. On the four pin compressors, ohm readings should be .2-.4, .2-.4, and 2.5-4.5 and no shorts to ground.

Unit drawing high amps

Typically, depending on the conditions, your unit will run anywhere from 4-6 amps. That depends on how much you have in the fridge, how hot it is that day, ventilation, clean coils, insulation etc. If your unit starts drawing higher amperage it could be a few different things. First, check the voltage at the input of the unit. The lower voltage gets, the higher the amp draw. Second, check your condenser coil to be sure it’s clean. If it’s dirty, and has poor airflow, it cannot condense and disperse the heat like it’s designed to do. Another is the unit has recently been overcharged. GET A TECH ON BOARD. Last, it may indicate your compressor is going bad, but like I said before, it’s very rare I see these things fail.

Unit blows fuses constantly

If your unit is blowing fuses as soon as it tries to start, it’s usually the compressor or the Danfoss module. Disconnect the module plug from the compressor, leaving everything else wired like normal and try to restart. If it does not blow the fuse, then the compressor is bad. If so, then the module is bad. (Note, This is not from Danfoss, it’s just what makes sense, and I’ve told people to do this on numerous occasions and it seems to work).

If your unit is older, and doesn’t have the PC Board

Basically, everything is still the same; you just don’t have the convenience of having the LED already there. Won’t start, bypass tstat like above. Trying to start, monitor voltage, unplug fan, then replace module…. Follow the same steps as above to find out what’s going on.


THESE ARE THE MOST COMMON PROBLEMS, I’M SURE I’LL THINK OF SOME MORE STUFF LATER. IF NOT EXPLAINED CLEARLY, OR YOU STILL HAVE QUESTIONS, CONTACT THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT 800-234-8778.

[Troy Dunn]

This thread just got added to my must save category. Thanks for posting
those procedures Jack!

T

[Ken McCrimmon]

Thanks, that is amazing run down of how to trouble shoot the cold machine. I am going to work through these next weekend.

Ken

________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Jack Brennan <jackb...@bellsouth.net>
Sent: June 26, 2021 9:15 AM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com <C320...@Catalina320.com>

Subject: Re: [C320-list] Refrigeration Diagnostics Assistance

[Ken McCrimmon]

Hi
The saga continues. I was at the boat this weekend with my head and upper body (sometime all of me) in the rear port compartment where the fridge compressor is.
I was trying to test to make sure there is power to machine. When I asked my wife to flip the switch, I could hear the fan come on. I also checked the voltage going into the machine and it looked right.

Then i noticed that the light was blinking on the front of the panel. I could not see it before because it was facing the stern and i could not see it from my previous position in the hatch from the rear berth.

The light is blinking three times, which based on the diagnostic run down shared earlier buy Jack means

1. Pressure have not equalized yet
2. Unit has been overcharged
3. Danfoss module is defective

I tried the remedy for #1, no luck
Unit has not been charged recently, so i do not think it is number 2
I guess i am left with number 3 - replacing the Danfoss Module

Unless anybody has other suggestions to try for something I might have missed

Thanks
Ken

________________________________
From: KEN GEIGER <ken...@aol.com>
Sent: June 21, 2021 3:56 PM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com <C320...@Catalina320.com>; Ken McCrimmon <kenmcc...@hotmail.com>; C320...@Catalina320.com <C320...@Catalina320.com>

Subject: Re: [C320-list] Refrigeration Diagnostics Assistance

Hi Ken. Your 320 as a 2003 I newer than our 2000 #765 and the other responders so there may be differences.

Our fridge is 12volt and controlled by a panel switch assuming the batteries switch is turned on to one or both batteries. If you are going to leave the fridge on you need to keep the batteries charged some how. Battery charger needs shore power. Lose the shore power with fridge on will deplete the batteries.

So you need to id the fridge and it's power source. Do you have a wiring diagram for the boat. Then find out if you have power to compressor. The thermostat may have an off position and then clicks to coolness levels.

Fridge drain on our 2000 is fed to a 3 way valve under the head sink, as is the shower drain. We select the correct position of the valve, turn on the shower drain switch on panel and then turn on the switch on the vanity wall by toilet.

Ken Geiger
Northern Dream 2000 #765

Sent from the all-new AOL app for Android<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aol.mobile.aolapp>

[wd...@aol.com]

Hi Ken- If you haven't already done so, try replacing both fuses (one a 5 AMP, the other is 10 I believe) on the upper/aft/outboard portion of the unit. My fridge came back to life after this simple fix a month ago. Had to hold the phone on selfie mode with one hand to see what I was doing, and maneuver the fuses with the other.Good luck,BillDiversion #714

[Ken McCrimmon]

Hi
I changed the 15 amp fuse and tested the other one

Thanks for the suggestion

Ken

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2021, at 1:12 PM, wd...@aol.com wrote:



From: KEN GEIGER <ken...@aol.com<mailto:ken...@aol.com>>

Sent: June 21, 2021 3:56 PM

To: C320...@Catalina320.com<mailto:C320...@Catalina320.com> <C320...@Catalina320.com<mailto:C320...@Catalina320.com>>; Ken McCrimmon <kenmcc...@hotmail.com<mailto:kenmcc...@hotmail.com>>; C320...@Catalina320.com<mailto:C320...@Catalina320.com> <C320...@Catalina320.com<mailto:C320...@Catalina320.com>>