[C320-list] Mast wiring question

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Doug Treff

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Sep 15, 2015, 10:00:47 AM9/15/15
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All,

I'm planning an electronics upgrade this off-season and included in that
job is fitting a masthead wind sensor. September Song doesn't currently
have one, so there's no wiring already in place. I know I'll need the
mast pulled to get access, but I'm looking for tips on the rest of the
job. Looking at the ceiling in the cabin where the compression post is
fitted, I don't see any access to run wires, so I am assuming that once
the mast is out of the way, I'll be able to get access through the deck
to run wires? My mast is an older one and does not have the access panel
like some newer C320's.

Any guidance on how the wires should be routed would be appreciated.
Anyone who's done this job, I'd love to hear from you.

Thanks!

--
Doug Treff
Catalina 320 - 1996 - September Song - #350
http://savvysailor.blogspot.com/
do...@treff.us

Brian/Carol McLamb

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Sep 15, 2015, 10:44:31 AM9/15/15
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Hi Doug. I am the proud owner of Serenity #1075. You my want to consider
the TackTic wireless unit. It has been great for me over the years.
Someone at a local boat yard with a crane, or maybe even on a bosun chair
can mount the masthead unit, and then you place the receiving unit at/near
the helm so you can see both wind direction and intensity. This does not
require any wiring so it can be done with the mast in place. No matter
which way you go I know you will enjoy having the wind direction and speed
visible at the helm.

Brian McLamb

Jeff Hare

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Sep 15, 2015, 11:04:28 AM9/15/15
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We just did all that.

Once the mast is pulled, there are two PVC tubes in the front corners of the
mast where the wiring runs to keep it separate and away from the halyards.
One tube goes to the masthead and I think the other goes up to around where
the steaming light is.

The center of the compression tube that runs down through the cabin is
hollow. There are holes at the base of this under the floorboard just aft
of the compression post. This is where wires go. From there it goes under
the floor and up into the port settee where you sit at the nav station.

When you run wires, be sure to chase through some strong rot-resistent twine
to use for fishing future wires through (there may be one there already).

Also while the mast is down, you'll really want to clean out the drain port
in the mast step to keep water from collecting and draining down the wiring
tube into the compression post/bilge. It won't be obvious, but there's a
small round hole and this leads aft to where the U shaped Bail connects at
the aft side of the mast step.

-Jeff

John Meyers

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Sep 15, 2015, 11:15:30 AM9/15/15
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I also installed a TackTic wireless system on Wind Chime #406. I love it.
The mast head equipment is solar powered and from what I was told or read
there is 200 hours in a charge which is hard to believe, but mine has
always worked and has had no problems in communications with the other
equipment. The black box is attached, out of sight, behind the board where
the radio is.

Someone told me that getting a chart plotter on the wireless that
some TackTic systems use might be a problem depending on the wireless
specifications. This is something I need to research. Does anyone know
about this being a problem or can recommend a chart plotter that does work
with TackTics? Thanks in advance.

John Meyers
Muskegon, MI



On Tue, Sep 15, 2015 at 10:44 AM, Brian/Carol McLamb <bjcnm...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Don

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Sep 15, 2015, 12:57:40 PM9/15/15
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Anyone installed a wireless wind system TackTic or other make and connect it to a Raymarine E95 or E97?

Thanks

Don Wood
844 - 2001
No Rush
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Jon Vez

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Sep 15, 2015, 1:45:40 PM9/15/15
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Doug,
The last Issue of Mainsheet contained an article with pics on the mast step of more mature hulls written by Graham Clark I believe....

Sent from my iPad

Warren Updike

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Sep 16, 2015, 10:44:53 AM9/16/15
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Doug, a few years ago we pulled our mast for service. I ended up replacing
all the wiring and fixtures. I figured on a 1994 boat, why not do a complete
job while the mast is down. I tied a messenger to the old wires when I
pulled them out. Had to use wire snot (that's what I called it,) to assist
in pulling the new wires through the conduits. This stuff is a thick goo you
can buy locally (box stores) for this purpose. The wires run in PVC conduits
that slide onto a tracks inside the mast. Later models with a different
brand mast may find different conditions. I also pulled a new messenger
through with the new wires.
You may find, as did I, that there are connectors at the base of the mast on
deck where you can disconnect the wires. The yard guys didn't see the
connector box for the wind inst and cut the wire at the deck.
Someone mentioned TicTack wireless. I've seen favorable comments from owners
who have used TicTack.
Regardless of whether you replace the fixtures or not, replace all the
bulbs; and, clean the contacts well and use a conductive grease on them.
This will help to prevent future corrosion and resulting trips up the mast.
Also, be sure to thoroughly clean the mast slide and wipe down with a dry
lubricant.
Check all the rigging for wire feathers and strain on the swages.

Warren and Pattie Updike
1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62


-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Treff [mailto:do...@treff.us]
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 10:01 AM
To: C320 List
Subject: [C320-list] Mast wiring question



Graeme Clark

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Sep 16, 2015, 11:09:23 AM9/16/15
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Doug

When I had the mast out I decided to use LED lights everywhere which means you can use a thinner (and less weighty and less expensive) cable as it carries much less current. It is therefore also easier to thread through the conduit!

As Jeff says there is a connector block at the foot of the mast. On the recommendation of my riggers we dispensed with that and just left a long tail of the new cables (fitted new vhf antenna and cable too) which was threaded through compression post (using a mouse line). If I ever need to remove the mast again I have enough slack under the port settee to make a junction box there. this means that any future electrical problems MUST be either at the lamp end or then cabin end, but you wont be worrying about having to remove the mast because there might be a corroded connection at the connector block, which is otherwise inaccessible.

The pictures that i submitted with the mainsheet article didn’t reproduce that well. If you'd like me to send you the originals, I can do so

Graeme Clark
#366, Jaskar
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