[C320-list] Shore Power Receptacle

[islgirl3--- via C320-list]

I need to replace my shore power receptacle, before I remove it I would like to have one on hand. Does anyone have a part # ?


RichBarbara Rita 897

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[Brian McLamb via C320-list]

Consider replacing it with SmartPlug receptacle. My 2006 model yr 320 was a
direct replacement with no need to modify the existing foot print. Bonus is
the ease of connecting and additional surge protection it provides.
S/V Serenity # 1075

Brian McLamb

[KEN GEIGER via C320-list]

A few years ago I replaced my 20 year old  original failed Marinco with an expensive Smart Plug.  A few years later it failed and am back to Marinco, only problem was that the one available at my marina was to big so adjustments were required. So I was happy to use the SmartPlug but not to happy with early failure.
Ken Geiger#765 2000 Northern Dream

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On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 8:28 a.m., Brian McLamb via C320-list<c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: Consider replacing it with SmartPlug receptacle. My 2006 model yr 320 was a

[Josh Chisholm via C320-list]

+1 on the SmartPlug…first upgrade I did after purchase. Original Marinco
had evidence of arcing probably from pulling the shore power cable under
load. No bueno.

-Josh C.
#1139 S/V Catherine

[Chris Burti via C320-list]

If anyone is converting to SmartPlug, I have a 50' 30 amp cord set that is almost unused as our spare and is available.

Chris Burti
Former C-320 #867
________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Josh Chisholm via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2024 10:19 AM
To: C320...@catalina320.com <C320...@catalina320.com>
Cc: Josh Chisholm <josh.a....@gmail.com>; Brian McLamb via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Shore Power Receptacle

[islgirl3--- via C320-list]

I assume this is the correct receptacle?

Marinco 305CRR Marine Electrical Receptacle (30-Amp, 125-Volt, Female, Yellow)

Rich 897

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On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 7:08 PM, Chris Burti via C320-list<c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: If anyone is converting to SmartPlug, I have a 50' 30 amp cord set that is almost unused as our spare and is available.

[Guy Smith via C320-list]

Hey All!

I had a problem where I was burning up the plug on the yellow plug cable
and thought it was a cable plug problem. It turns out that the wires
*inside* the locker on the back of the receptacle were corroded and, one by
one, the strands of the wires screwed down to the back of the
receptacle were burning through. Probably when we were running the AC or if
the Batteries were really low and the charger was drawing a lot of power.
This was creating a lotta heat on the inside that was being transferred via
the male pins to the cable plugin on the other side.
I cleaned up the wires inside the locker and the problem went away. (on the
new plug I replaced on the cable.)
So check the back of the receptacle in the aft port locker to see the state
of wiring.

~g

Guy & Liz Smith
sv Renegade
2017 Catalina 445 #26
Worton Creek Marina, MD USA

On Mon, Feb 26, 2024 at 11:15 AM islgirl3--- via C320-list <

[Cheryl Dahl via C320-list]

Hey everyone,
Timely subject, I just replaced my 50’ cord and male connector on my boat
yesterday. The neutral leg on the boat and cord were cooked . I had
previously replaced both when I purchased our boat about 3 years ago. We
went out for a sail last Thursday and that is when I noticed it . After
reviewing my electrical loads and doing the math I realized it was self
inflicted. We had brought a small Dyson heater from home for overnight use
during the winter and also a mini nespresso coffee machine.
The heater is 1500 watts or 12.5 amps.
The coffee machine is 1250 watts or 10 amps. We were always turning off the
heater when we used the coffee maker but what I forgot to consider was the
electric water heater which is another 1500 watts or 12.5 amps. ( The
admiral must have hot water) So you can see that just our small heater and
the water heater on at the same time are pulling 24 amps. I don’t know what
the amp rating is on the battery charger , I need to look that up. I am
going to watch my amperage and try to keep the water heater on only when
necessary since it recovers so quickly anyway.
Cheers,
Steve Dahl
97 #412
Sans Souci

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Ken

What was the cause of failure for your smart plug?

Troy Dunn
Hull #514

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Steve

Conservative estimate is 2.5A at 110V for every 10A at 12V of output. It
won’t be that bad if you have a newer and more efficient charger. Also
the conservatism takes into account not only efficiencies but also accounts
for other current spikes. Anticipate that your actual current draw should
be less.

FWIW

Troy

[Cheryl Dahl via C320-list]

Thanks Troy !

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Ken

The early models had a built in thermal breaker which was problematic.
Great example of overthinking the solution. Improving the connection to
reduce arcing was a great idea. Adding in a thermal breaker created a new
point of failure. Most of the complaints however with that were simply
folks coming to the dock to find their batteries completely discharged.
Most of the reviews since that time have been positive. The original
Hubell design that marinco uses is really a bad design.

Sorry it didn’t work out for you. I’ve been sitting on the fence for years
trying to decide where to put an upgraded plug on the endless list of
projects.

Regards

Troy

[Guy Smith via C320-list]

Hey Bruce!

Sorry for the confusion... I used to have a '97 C320... That was the
boat that had a cord problems, probably 10-12 years old at the
time(I'm guessing)...
We traded up to the C445 two years ago but I like staying on the C320
list for the great info that is shared. :)
The C445 has smart plugs (2) and haven't had any issues.

~g
Guy & Liz Smith
sv Renegade
2017 Catalina 445 #26
Worton Creek Marina, MD USA

On Tue, Feb 27, 2024 at 2:07 AM Bruce Hunter <swampc...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> A 2017 boat, I don't know, if it were older, like much older I'd say it's possible they slowly corroded away but on a 7 or 8 year old boat I'd have to say that was a loose connection from the factory.
>
> Bruce Hunter
> Former owner 2000 320
> New owner 2005 350 Miss Sea-ducer.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

[Sara Schroeder via C320-list]

This post is ever-so-timely!

I live in Seattle and bought Wandering Star in 2016. I sailed with the PO for about five years prior to ownership and he had upgraded to a Smart Plug sometime before I bought her.

Fast forwarding to this past weekend. Friday evening, I took WS over to Bainbridge Island (large residential island off of Seattle to the West) for the US Sailing, Safety At Sea, course and a corresponding Life Sling training which I volunteered my boat for. When I left my slip, I took my power cord with me as there would be power. When I unplugged her from the stern receptacle, I was in a hurry to get across the water before dark (going solo) and remember noticing the end of the plug was "warm." Note To Self: Check that when you get there. Lots going on when I arrive so I forget the Note To Self.

Saturday was the Life Sling training and part of the training was on-the-water practice, deploying the Life Sling and getting it as close to a floating MOB buoy as possible. Upon leaving the dock, I again, notice the plug is "warm." Getting back to the dock I start looking around. The plug looks fine. The receptacle attached to the boat looks fine. But, instinct told me that I was away from my dock and something was amiss. Instead of plugging in the closed cell oil space heater I brought I didn't. Sunday morning arrived and I took the 42 degree chill off the boat with my Webasto heater. (If you're asking yourself why I didn't run the Webasto over night it's because I didn't want to burn through all the fuel as it draws from a small secondary tank.)

Upon return to my marina, my ex offered to "take a look". During the hour-plus crossing I determined that the power cord and SmartPlug must be about 13 years old. This was not on my radar so I decided it was being replaced regardless.

Another expensive trip to Fisheries (the local chandlery) resulted in a new plug and a new receptacle. We pulled everything apart and when we pulled the receptacle out of the stern, I about had heart failure. The entire inside (just like Renegade) was melted. The wires were melted together and the SmartPlug receptacle was melting on the inside of the casing.

We cut off the plug from the power cord and determined the cord was fine as there was no damage internally on the cord. However, we replaced all of the wires associated with the receptacle and replaced the plug.

I have to say the thought of the stern of my boat, and me, going up in flames is sobering. I'll never unplug/plugin again without testing the temp of the plug. I'll also unscrew the meager four screws out of the receptacle every few years to make sure the wires are not doing something they shouldn't.

Note To Self: Don't ignore the Notes To Self!

Gratefully,
Sara Schroeder
Wandering Star
Seattle
2000/#707

[islgirl3--- via C320-list]

I guess the real question is why isn't the breaker on the dock or on the panel tripping? 
Does the breaker on the boat need to replaced or downgraded?
Bad connections will always cause additional resistance .
Food for thought.
RichBarbara Rita 897
Sent from AOL on Android

On Tue, Feb 27, 2024 at 10:40 PM, Sara Schroeder via C320-list<c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: This post is ever-so-timely! 

[Mark Seyler via C320-list]

The breaker doesn't trip because it only detects current - how many amps are being used - not what they're being used for. The problem is that some of the amps are being converted to heat at the plug by the additional resistance from corrosion, in addition to the amps used to charge the batteries or run other electrical stuff. But unless the total number of amps exceeds the breaker trip level, you can't count on the breaker to provides protection from corrosion-induced heating at the plug, That won't happen until the heat melts enough insulation to cause a direct short circuit, which is about the same time the fire starts.

The moral of the story is just what Sara said: Always take it seriously when anything electrical feels warmer than usual to the touch.

And I suppose I'll be opening up my 29-year-old electrical inlet to have a look sometime soon!

Mark Seyler
S/V Reality,
Catalina 320, #232
New Orleans, LA

> > > +Marinco

[Joe Grande via C320-list]

Hi Sara. I, too, have a Smart Plug mounted in Whisper's transom. With the heat generated around your breaker box in the lazarette, I am suspicious that some PO rewiring was done with substandard gauge wire. That would allow heat to pass to your Smart Plug. With their office on Lake Union, take them the plug.
Joe Grande
Whisper
2000 #772


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From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Mark Seyler via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2024 10:23:02 AM
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[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Just to reiterate what others have said. A faulty connection will not
trip any fuses or breakers. It's super important to give your wiring the
once over every fall or spring (whichever suits). A loose battery cable,
alternator cable, or charger cable on the DC side can also result in some
very bad outcomes. Make sure that your battery cables have an actual nut
installed that is secured with a lock washer, etc. I’m really surprised
that a ten year old inlet port would have wiring that was in this bad of
shape. I would second taking that to the manufacturer to see if they can
figure out what was going on.

Guy-

Was it a SmartPlug inlet or the original inlet that failed on Pleiades?

- Troy

[Guy Smith via C320-list]

Hey Troy!

It was the standard Marinco 30 amp receptacle. I actually replaced the
cable plug twice before I figured out that the wiring inside the boat was
slowly burning through, one strand at a time, at the back of the
receptacle. Someone said that they thought the wire used at installation
was not tinned marine grade... The moisture/dampness in the locker must
have helped to corrode the wire. Because the wire was not ridgely supported
in the locker, I'm sure that stuffing fenders and other paraphernalia in
the locker helped to rock the wire at the screw connection accelerating the
wire degradation. When I replaced the receptacle with a new one, the old
wire connection had over half the strands burnt through.

Renegade has the smart plugs and I haven't seen any problems with them.
They are mounted in a spot that doesn't get a lotta stuff pushed in around
them to disturb the wires.

Best regards,
~g

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Ah, ok that makes more sense to me. In my experience most of the wiring
on Hull #514 would be considered sub par by the "experts". None of the
original DC cables were tinned copper, and the crimps, lugs, and insulation
were all indicative of many corners being cut to save cost. Many issues
on the 320 with electrical systems and/or electrically driven components
can be traced back to wiring that is corroded because it was not terminated
with a gas tight crimp and sealed heat shrink terminals. The Yanmar
engine harness is a great example after chasing a few gremlins there I
finally just replaced the entire harness and added a proper terminal for
connecting the harness to the extension.

FWIW

Troy