[C320-list] 'Sticky' Through-Hull Valves

[Tony Kalish via C320-list]

I have the Marelon through-hull valves on my 1999 Catalina 320. I try
every year to lube and exercise the valves but they still bind and are
'sticky'...they don't open/close smoothly. I've been using the Marelube to
help keep them working, but doesn't seem to be working. Any suggestions?
Anyone else have similar issues?

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Saltwater kept?

Troy Dunn
Hull#514

[David Wellerstein via C320-list]

I had a Marelon break off in my hand (sink drain) and will never use them again. I’ve replaced them all with bronze seacocks.

[John Frost via C320-list]

I had one break off at the hull on my 6 month old boat. It was a jagged break and I couldn’t stop the water flow but we got it to the lift and saved it. I would have sunk if we hadn't been on board. I now keep a bag of toilet bowl joint wax on board that can plug such a leak

I looked at it under a microscope and found it failed from fatigue,
Turns out it was my head overboard discharge valve which I had zip tied closed by attaching it to an adjacent hose. The valve and the hose vibrated differently under power and my zip tie just vibrated the valve to failure.

I close all valves when I leave the boat so they get exercised and they are never sticky (fresh water)


John
2007 C320MKII
Hull #1118
Lake Guntersville, AL

[Jacob Lang via C320-list]

Out of curiosity, did you use grocco? And what size thru hulls did you use for the galley?

> On Apr 29, 2024, at 11:42, David Wellerstein via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote:
>
> I had a Marelon break off in my hand (sink drain) and will never use them again. I’ve replaced them all with bronze seacocks.

[Dave Hupe via C320-list]

Forespar says "Marelon valves are non-corrosive, but like any moving part in a marine environment, they require regular use, inspection, and lubrication. Do not fail to actuate the handle regularly and lubricate the seals at least once a year or more. Use any-non petroleum based grease and avoid any aerosols as the carriers used may damage the valves. Never use a penetrating lubricant like WD-40! To lube, close the valve, remove the hose, remove any standing water (as much as possible), and use a soda straw or other flexible, throw-away device to swab the ball through the tailpipe or elbow. Replace the hose (check for worm or rusty hose clamps and replace if necessary), then activate the handle to draw the lubricant around the seals. When the boat is hauled, this can be done through the thru-hull easily. The best maintenance is regular use. Any valve, regardless of material will seize if left in a boat in the water unmoved for any length of time. Marine growth alone will build up and clog the valve rendering it inoperable".
I swab the closed valve balls with silicone grease containing teflon from beneath through the thru-hull fittings every time my boat is hauled and then exercise the valves. Even with this my valves also are tight. I have replaced and rebuilt several valves with kits available from Forespar. I was amazed what good shape the original valves were in once disassembled. 
You might try loosening VERY VERY SLIGHTLY the 4 philip head screws visible on the top plate just beneath the handle. While rebuilding mine, I noted how significant these screws impact the mechanism.  However, if you do this, monitor very closely if seepage develops around the body of the valve. 
Dave Hupe 
1994 C320 #32
Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer

On Mon, Apr 29, 2024 at 11:34 AM, Tony Kalish via C320-list<c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: I have the Marelon through-hull valves on my 1999 Catalina 320.  I try

[Bob Borelli via C320-list]

I used the Forespar MareLube Reach to lube the sea valves from outside of the underwater hull while hauled for winter stoarge.
And it seemed to ease up the opening & closing of the seavalves this season after back in the water.

I also had removed the hoses on all sea valves, dried out them trying to vacuum but more success rolling blue shop towels up, stuffing down into the top of the valves, removing, repeating until dry, then apply MareLube.

Every time onboard I open the valves & close when I leave in order to exercise them.

Bob C320 209 Sassafras River MD
________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Dave Hupe via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2024 12:17 PM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com <C320...@Catalina320.com>; Tony Kalish via C320-list <c320...@lists.catalina320.com>; C320...@catalina320.com <C320...@catalina320.com>
Cc: Dave Hupe <hoop...@yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: [C320-list] 'Sticky' Through-Hull Valves

[David Wellerstein via C320-list]

Don’t know and not sure. I had a diver come out and plug the hole immediately (thankfully) as we were taking on water. Hauled the boat and had the yard do the replacements. I’d have to go back and look up invoices. Sorry!

While new bronze seacocks may seize (and that’s a problem) without regular use, I don’t think they will break off as the Marelon did. The yard was pretty insistent on not using them again but I know that opinions vary.

David
’94 C320
Hull #118

[Tony Kalish via C320-list]

Hey Troy, We keep our boat on the Chesapeake...the bay somehow resembles
water, brackish is a term used, but summertime the water resembles a dark
brown coffee-ish color. I try to avoid getting it on me.

On Mon, Apr 29, 2024 at 1:04 PM David Wellerstein via C320-list <

[SARA SCHROEDER via C320-list]

My monthly checklist includes exercising the seacock valves each month and I'm pretty good at doing that. The Marelon's on my 2000 (#707) were getting really sticky despite lubing and exercising. Not wanting one to break, I replaced them in 2020 when the boat was on the hard. Figured they were 20 years old and prevention is sometimes the best solution. I stuck with Marelon and the new ones are easy to rotate.

Sara
Wandering Star
Seattle, WA
2000/#707

[Jack Brennan via C320-list]

Through hull debates are like anchor debates. No right or wrong. Just opinions.

After many years of having "bronze" through hulls, I was happy to have Marelon on my 320.

Groco and others actually make red brass fittings, with 5 percent zinc and 5 percent tin. It's a good alloy for seawater.

However, I had several handles of mild steel break off. I also had a couple that didn't shut properly, especially those with the old cone-shaped fittings.

Don't bond them electrically. You don't want them acting as spare zincs.

My only problem with Marelon has been that they occasionally clog. That was really fun when it happened on the head through hull.

The only solution is to remove the hose and use a plumbing tool to clear it, then don gloves for the messy clean up.

I've never lubed them, although that would be a good idea. I do exercise them regularly.

Marelon itself is virtually indestructible. People have taken hammers to the fittings with no result.

If the fitting won't close, an emergency fix is to fit a hose that reaches above the waterline, then cap it for good measure.

Jack Brennan
Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
Tierra Verde, Fl.





Sent via the Samsung Galaxy A32 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone

[Troy Dunn via C320-list]

Tony

We keep our boat in Rock Hall. Only slightly salty there compared to the
ocean, but still a barnacle fiesta at times. If you are having trouble
with a particular thru hull it could be that you have marine growth inside
the ball, as someone else noted this can be difficult to remove when the
boat is in the water, but it is doable if it's actually barnacles or other
hard/calciferous marine growth. You can test this theorey by pushing a
small rod or wire up into the open valve from the outside…if it doesnt
slide smoothly you may have growth. The little white cap on the side of
your handle is a plug, you can tie a string to it so you don’t lose it and
insert it into the thru hull from the bottom of the boat. Now you can
safely remove hoses and prod around from the top side with the valve closed
and/or open. If you think you have hard growth, put a small section of
hose back on then slowly pour some barnacle buster into the valve.

Good luck.


Troy

[Tony Kalish via C320-list]

Hi Troy, thanks for your information. I'm on the hard right now (Oak
Harbor Marina, Pasadena) and I totally understand the Chesapeake water (?)
issues...I'm heading to the boat today and will check out my thru-hull
valves. Actually have the same 'sticky/binding issue with all of the
valves. One thought is that the o-rings in the handle part might be
getting old (25 yrs) and may need to be replaced. Apparently there is an
o-ring repair kit from Forespar--looking to see if available in Annapolis
somewhere--

thanks, Tony

[Dave Hupe via C320-list]

The handle o-rings are tiny and would not be the reason for difficult operation. Their purpose is only to prevent water seepage around the handle shaft. I know this from rebuildng several valves.

Dave Hupe
1994 C320 #32

Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer

On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 11:18 AM, Tony Kalish via C320-list<c320...@lists.catalina320.com> wrote: Hi Troy, thanks for your information.  I'm on the hard right now (Oak