[C320-list] Prop Shaft Install

[Charles Greenwell]

Hi Guys,



After reading many past postings on installing a new prop shaft without
pulling the rudder, I had to give it a try. Needless to say I was not
successful. With the rudder in palace I can insert the shaft through the
strut and get it to the shaft log opening but it is not centered on the
opening, about 2 inches left or right depending on which side of the
rudder I start with. At this point the shaft is hard against the rudder
and I still need to go another 6 inches or so to clear the rudder.



It might be possible to bend the shaft towards the log opening and get
it started but then there is too much pressure on the shaft and I can
not push it any further. Tried using a hammer to bang it in but again,
no success.



So, it looks like I will need to drop the rudder and put the boat into a
sling while inserting the new shaft. Is dropping the rudder a difficult
task? It looks like it would be something I could not handle alone.



Has anyone done this?



Randy

Le Bijou #719

[resloat]

Randy-If the cutless bearing is still in the strut, remove it to give you a
little more ability move the shaft around. If it is not in, then I have no
other recommendation other than remove the rudder.

Bob Sloat
S/V Savannah 894 (2002)

[Charles Greenwell]

Thanks Bob. I do have the cutlass bearing removed.



I am going to try this again using a different approach before I drop
the rudder. My concern is bending the SS shaft but after thinking about
it, it should be OK to bend it about 2 inches over the length of the
shaft.



Randy

Le Bijou #719

[jim brown]

If it came out without removing the rudder shouldn't it go back in the same way?

Jim Brown

________________________________

From: Charles Greenwell <CGree...@sparusa.com>
To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com

Sent: Monday, May 7, 2012 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Prop Shaft Install

[pat reynolds]

I just completed this job.  The rudder is attached by two thru bolts, one thru the quadrant and the other at the top of the rudder stock under the emergency tiller opening in the cockpit.  The quadrant is tightened by four bolts which are visible thru the rear opening in the back berth.  I removed the door and frame from this opening to get more space and opened the port back cover to get light. 
 
 Remove the four quadrant bolts.  The first time I did this they were very hard to open and I had to put a pipe extention on my rachet.  This time they were very easy.  There are also two small bolts holding the ends of the quadrant together.  Loosen or remove these.  Then remove the quadrant thru bolt.  The quadrant will slide down the stock to the rudder bearing. 
 
The only thing now holding the rudder is the top bolt in the cockpit.  You now need someone to hold onto the rudder while you remove the top bolt.  Unless you have a very strong person I would suggest two people underneath as the rudder is heavy.   I put a dock cart underneath.  (I don't know why I went into italics I must have hit the wrong key)  Anyway the job is not difficult if the bolts cooperate.  There are fiberglass bearings or bushings at the top of the stock where the top bolt runs thru.  This would be a good time to check these for wear.  When putting the rudder back up make sure the cables are properly situated on both sides of the quadrant  and on the quadrant and on the sheves (remove the cover over the sheves in the rear berth also)  My boat is a 1995

From: Charles Greenwell <CGree...@sparusa.com>
To: c320...@lists.catalina320.com

Sent: Sunday, May 6, 2012 5:40 PM
Subject: [C320-list] Prop Shaft Install

[ams...@aol.com]

Gang

I am going to up-grade to a folding Prop this year.

After a lot of going back and forth and reading I have decided to go with Flex O Fold. Wondering how other who have gone with FOF like it.

I have a 94 model with a Perkins M30. I think we have 1 inch shafts is that correct.

Also what other things should I consider doing when replacing the prop I read somewhere that I should change out the cutlass bearing and maybe upgrade the shaft to SS.

Thanks ahead of time


Tony

[Charles Greenwell]

Yep... It should go back in that way if it came out that way but .....
it did not come out that way. The old shaft was cut and removed.



Randy

Le Bijou #719

[Charles Greenwell]

Thanks Pat.



Randy

Le Bijou #719

[Allan S Field]

Randy - Can you dig a hole under the rudder? That would save the sling expense... - Allan

Allan S. Field
Sent from my iPad

[wfl...@aim.com]

Couldn't you put a jack under the rudder?

-----Original Message-----
From: Allan S Field <allan...@verizon.net>
To: C320-List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
Sent: Mon, May 7, 2012 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Prop Shaft Install

[Brad Kuether]

I have the FOF on my boat.

Best upgrade I have ever invested in. Your 320 will actually MOVE in 3kts
of wind. Yes you read that correctly.....

Here are my specs. Yours may be different due to motor and/or
transmission!!!!

(read all the way down....)

-Brad, Mary, Monica, and Jarod
"Independence"
2004 Catalina 320 Hull 1006
Middle River, MD



Brad,



Thank you for your inquiry regarding a Flexofold propeller for your Catalina
320. For your boat, with that Yanmar engine, we would recommend a 16 x 12
3-blade RH Flexofold ($1985 + shipping).



When you purchase a Flexofold propeller, you will be joining a rapidly
growing number of boat owners enjoying the performance benefits of the
Flexofold under sail and power.

Lowest drag of all props in several independent drag tests. Improve your
sailing performance by 15% on average. Nothing you do to your boat will
increase sailing performance more!
Most efficient propeller in forward in tests done by Technische Universitat
Berlin. Only prop to prove more efficient than fixed blade prop in forward
and reverse.
Superior stopping and reversing power. Helps you control prop walk. Among
the best.
Blades do not stick out while sailing as they do on feathering propellers.
You won't catch lobster or crab pots, fishing lines or debris in the water.
No messy greasing, rebuilding or other maintenance required. Just keep the
blades clean as you would any prop.
The blades are the only moving parts for long life. Built from underwater
compatible nickel-aluminum-bronze and high strength 329 stainless steel.
Used by many of the world's other leading cruising and racing boat
manufacturers.
Built-in shock absorbers for quiet opening.
Robust, smooth acting gears for long life
� Flexofold Propellers make sailing more fun. You can sail faster
than the guy who used to pass you, and keep sailing in lighter air than ever
before



You will also be making the same decision over 51 builders of quality boats,
around the world, have made when they specify Flexofold as standard
equipment or recommended options. That list includes Swan, Morris Yachts,
J-Boats, Beneteau, Hylas Yachts, X-Yachts, Malo and Najad. Improved
performance under sail and power also explains our ranking as the best
selling low-drag propeller in the world.



Please give us a call when you are ready to proceed or if you have any
questions. Thanks again!



Dan Tucker



Flexofold North America

781.631.3190

ams...@flexofold.com







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> Sfga: 00d30000000ib3q

> Name: Brad Kuether

> Email Address: bkue...@comcast.net

> Address1:

> Address2:

> City:

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> Boat make model: 2004 Catalina 320

> Hull type: Fin Keel

> Displacement: 11700

> Waterline length: 28

> Engine make model year: Yanmar 3ym30

> Max hpmax rpm: 27

> Reduction gear ratio: 2.62:1

> Type drive: Tapered Shaft

> Shaft diameter if tapered shaft: 1

> Existing propeller type diameter pitch rhlh and number of blades: Michigan
> 15 X 9 3 Blade Fixed Standard Prop From Factory

> Comments: Looking At Your 3 Blade Folding Thanks!

> Submit: Submit Form

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[Jason Alexander]

Hello,


Does anyone know if these circuit breakers will work in our Seward panels:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=35156&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=50549&classNum=50556

I'm going to be adding a chart plotter this weekend and need to add a breaker.

Thanks
Jason