[C320-list] No posts since March 9??

[Frank Yaskin]

Is the list just inactive or did I fall off the subscription list? No new posts since 3/9.

Frank
Blue Canute 320 #380

[Timothy Woods]

😁

[Chris Burti]

It has been awhile...

Chris Burti
Farmville, NC

[Graeme Clark]

Just ask for everyone’s opinion about which is the best anchor …. That’ll get things moving again :-)

Sent from my phone. Excuse typos!

> On 23 Mar 2022, at 16:24, Frank Yaskin <fra...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Is the list just inactive or did I fall off the subscription list? No new posts since 3/9.

[Charles r Martin]

In the spirit of interesting sailboat chatter, here is a poser: what are the two cam cleat-like devices just inside the mast end of a standard boom on the C320. On my boat, they just hang there and don’t seem to have any purpose. There are two lines that run into my boom (the outhaul and the reefing line), but neither line seems to use or relate in any way I can tell to these cam cleats (if that is what they are). Any guesses?

Best,
Chip Martin
S/V Bonaventure, Hull #767
(410) 231-0199
chipr...@gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2022, at 12:32 PM, Graeme Clark <c...@skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Just ask for everyone’s opinion about which is the best anchor …. That’ll get things moving again :-)

[Joe Geiger]

I use one of those to tighten my outhaul. The other one has the reefing line through it but I don’t use it as I lock that line using the cabin top rope clutches.

Joe
—
Joe Geiger
Vega #722
Greenwich Cove, RI

[Jeff Hare]

Well,

I'm pretty sure most Hunter's would make a good anchor. 😊

-Annonymous 😊

[jackbrennan]

35lb Delta is currently holding well in 28 mph winds in Pelican Bay, Boca Grande, Fl.Jack BrennanSonas 1998 Catalina 320Sent via the Samsung Galaxy A32 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Jeff Hare <Cata...@thehares.com> Date: 3/23/22 2:26 PM (GMT-05:00) To: C320...@Catalina320.com Subject: Re: [C320-list] No posts since March 9?? Well, I'm pretty sure most Hunter's would make a good anchor.  😊-Annonymous  😊 -----Original Message-----From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Graeme ClarkSent: Wednesday, March 23, 2022 12:32 PMTo: C320...@catalina320.comSubject: Re: [C320-list] No posts since March 9??Just ask for everyone’s opinion about which is the best anchor …. That’ll get things moving again :-)Sent from my phone. Excuse typos! > On 23 Mar 2022, at 16:24, Frank Yaskin <fra...@comcast.net> wrote:> > Is the list just inactive or did I fall off the subscription list? No new posts since 3/9.> > Frank> Blue Canute 320 #380

[Troy Dunn]

Woo hoo! A what anchor is best post! Let the games begin. But, maybe we
should at least attempt to explain the choice? For Wonky Dog, Fortress
all day long, it is perfect for the Chesapeake mud, it is lightweight and
easily handled by the admiral. For the record…if sailing in the
tropics…mantus or rocna….all day long.

Extra points to Jack for letting us all know he is in the water while those
of us in the northeast are staring at a nasty return to winter when all we
really want to do is wax the boat and get her ready to splash!

Troy Dunn
Hull #514

On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 2:54 PM jackbrennan <jackb...@bellsouth.net>
wrote:

[Greg Flanagan]

The anchor posts have had a long history. I reiterate, I have found the Rocna 15 to be the perfect anchor for the 320 at least in my cruising grounds. I had failures with the supplied anchor, never with this one under every condition.

Thanks,

Greg
Hoop Dancer #1076
Sidney, BC


> On Mar 24, 2022, at 5:58 PM, Troy Dunn <troutw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Woo hoo! A what anchor is best post! Let the games begin. But, maybe we

[Troy Dunn]

I suspect Frank was asking about the two inboard cams, there are four on
Wonky Dog and only two are in use, one for the out haul and one is where
the reefing line comes through. My guess is that CS supplies that boom to
many boat manufacturers including the aforementioned Hunters which I think
we can agree is more of a permanent mooring anchor than good ground tackle
you'd actually want anywhere near a Catalina…ahem…but back on topic (was
there a topic?).

I suspect other manufacturers use those other two cams for second and third
reefing lines? Complete guess.

FWIW

Troy

[Troy Dunn]

Oh wait…that was Charles…oops!

[David Wellerstein]

I’ll put this out to the list…

We had several heavy rains this year and our ’94’s port lights almost all leaked, some quite badly. Even to the point where I avoid getting spray on them when I hose the boat down. They are quite crazed (as am I) too.

We bought new rubber gaskets but they are an absolute B to put in and I’m not sure that’s the source of the trouble anyway. I think the deck hatches are ok though I did need to re-affix the head hatch glass to the trim. That seems to be holding.

Has anyone done a full port light replacement? Order of magnitude cost? They appear to be about $240 apiece from Catalina Direct so my simple math says that’s about $1700 for the ports. Replacing them myself looks very involved, tedious and time consuming. Is this something a general yard can do or are there specialists out there? It appears the non-opening windows are watertight but should they be replaced as well?

Thanks as always!

David
C320 #118 Dream Catcher

[P.F. Ross]

Hi David,

You will find much discussion on the list on the portlight topic. I putzed
around with mine for many years and was never able to get them to seal to
my satisfaction, even though there are others who have had better luck.
And you are right, trying to replace the rubber seals in them is nigh on
impossible.

Two or three years ago, I replaced all of my opening portlights with the
newer design Lewmar Standard Rectangular Size 1 from Defender (their p/n
900365-1-WHI). At the time, the Defender 1st price was just under $200
each and I broke it up into two projects, doing the aft stateroom first and
the main salon later. Helped with cash flow as well as project load.

These are a much improved design with only one frame seam (at mid bottom)
and no through holes in the lens for either hinges or closures. Absolutely
stopped all portlight leaks (although make sure you get them bedded
properly, I used Bed-It butyl tape). The original design had several
possible leak paths.

Replacing the portlights yourself is not difficult, just a little tedious
to make sure you get all old sealant removed and cleaned for the new
lights. I used a plastic putty knife and mineral spirits, IIRC.

I have not replaced my fixed portlights, although I did rebed the one in
the aft stateroom.

Good luck, you can do it!

Frank Ross
Beta Wave #206
Naples, FL

[Troy Dunn]

David-

Frank is right, there are tons of articles on this list for replacing the
opening portlights (one as recent as a few weeks ago). This job is fairly
simple. The only tricky part is separating the portlight from the outer
hull without scratching the gel coat. Just go easy with plastic scrapers
and wood shims and they will come off. I would say that an experienced
pro could do the entire job in half a day, but allow a full day for a
newbie.

Troy Dunn
Hull#514

[Michael Paris]

To those of you that have replaced the opening portlights, has the crazing returned? My 2000 (#734) C320 has the rounded sides with hinges mounted to the lens so it’s not as simple as some. My concern is replacing them all and having the crazing return.

Thanks,
Mike P
#734
Southern California

[Christian]

David,
the source of your leak is likely the "G" gasket. When I got my 320 6
years ago, every portlight leaked, and leaked badly. I replaced all the
rubber gaskets. Yes, they are a real PITA to replace. All still leaked.
I then replace the O rings in all the dog ears. All still leaked. I then
read about the G gasket on our list, looked closely at mine, and yup, dry
rotted. Given your hull number, I'd guess yours are dry rotted too.

I had perfect success with fixing without rebedding the hatch.

On each portlight, horizontal, mid section, visible on the outside (deck
side) of the hatch, is a seam, filled with a gray gasket. I would guess if
you inspect closely, you'll find that dry rotted. What I did is take thin
needle nose plier, and a pick, and pulled that seam portion of the gasket
out (this is the g gasket, if you are able to extract a whole portion out
without tearing, you'll see why it's called a g gasket). It should come
out fairly easily, with minimal need for cleaning the surface afterwards.

Then, after you've removed the g gasket, on the outside (deskside) cleanly
take off the aluminum along that seam, and where it meets your fiberglass.

Then, with this Dow Corning sealant:
https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-350/hatches-ports/replacement-parts/sealant-for-hatches-amp-plex-fixed-ports-black/

From the outside thickly fill in gap. Then, with the back of a spoon,
smooth the sealant flat (why you need the tape off your frame and
fiberglass). Then, apply another squirt on the inside of the frame (this
is a little harder to reach with the sealant nozzle, and unfortunately
harder if you have your rubber gasket for the lens in, but can be done;
fortunately on the inside, doesn't have to be as clean, it's hidden well).
Let cure. Come back with a razor blade, very lightly score the sealant
along your taped area, and then remove the tape and the excess sealant on
the tape should cleanly break.

I have not had one single drop leak since I did this. It was the source of
ALL my leaks. And this is actually easier to do than replacing that rubber
lens gasket. I did all 7 of my portlights in about 4 hours. Don't cheat
and get another sealant. You want that Dow Coring sealant I recommended.
Its used to hold windows in skyscrapers. It's the real deal, works great,
bonds well, and breaks along light scoring for a nice clean up. You could
never tell I did the job it was so clean (except for my first frame where I
hadn't taped, and then realized I needed to tape for this sealant).

Hope this helps, happy to answer any questions.

-Christian Caperton 1994 C320 #138 "Canuck" Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL

[Christian]

David,
apologies, just addressing a bad typo that might be confusing. Where I
said: "Then, after you've removed the g gasket, on the outside (deskside)

cleanly take off the aluminum along that seam, and where it meets your

fiberglass." Take off should have been TAPE OFF. You DO NOT need to
remove the aluminum frame for how I fixed my leaks. Apologies on that.
-Christian

[Troy Dunn]

Micheal P.

We are going on six years with no discernible change in appearance.

Having said that, acrylic is incredibly sensitive to exposure to solvents.
Over time even the fumes of chemical solvents will introduce just enough
changes to the top layer of acrylic to induce stress fractures (aka
crazing). So, being careful using solvents near the lenses is important.
Soap and water only for cleaning.

Over extended periods of time UV damage will have a similar effect. There
really isn’t any way to prevent that.

Acrylic is relatively inexpensive and considered by most to be the best
material for this application. If you are attempting to DIY lenses, just
be sure to buy cast acrylic. We buy ours from estreet plastics.

FWIW

Troy Dunn
Hull #514

[David Wellerstein]

Thank you Christian (and others). I’m thinking that with the crazing I should probably just replace them. But I may take a stab at the G gasket.

In any case, this is about the best and closest article/post I’ve found on the replacement: https://mysailingfix.com/2017/11/15/portlight-replacement/ <https://mysailingfix.com/2017/11/15/portlight-replacement/>

If anyone has others, or better yet a video, to share, I’m all ears and eyes. But I think I’m going to bite the bullet and buy four of the new portlights for the cabin and give it a go. Worst case I have to have someone come out and do them. I’ll still be able to use the windows.

Thank you and happy sailing! Looks like it will be a nice day on the Bay tomorrow!

—David

David Wellerstein | dwel...@mac.com | 925.301.6581 (m)

[Michael Paris]

Thanks Troy. That’s good to hear. I have the rounded ended model (Lewmar 1RE new standard) and the replacement lens itself is $100. to $120. each because the hinges are mounted on the lens.

[Mark Hood]

Hi all, To prevent crazing on ports use 210 Polish and Cleaner. We have
used it for years on all our boats and regular application stops this from
happening. It is made in Cambridge, MA by Summer Labs and used in airports
throughout the world on airplane windows to prevent this, it works. Mark
Hood #809

[David Wellerstein]

Thanks for the anti-crazing tip. I will definitely get some of that!

Just pulled the plastic interior frames and found a bunch of the fasteners were quite loose. I hope you can’t over-torque them but I did go around a couple of times on each port. I’ll take the hose out and see how it goes. But it doesn’t look like changing them out is going to be a big deal. Just some screws, cleanup and adhesive. Famous last words, right?

Thanks again for all the feedback!

David
C320 #118 Dream Catcher

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 26, 2022, at 9:40 AM, Mark Hood <ma...@hoodcanvas.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all, To prevent crazing on ports use 210 Polish and Cleaner. We have

[Christian]

David, keep in mind the frames are aluminum, and the fasteners are
stainless steel, so yes you could over torque them quite easily. But they
should be snug.

[David Wellerstein]

I read that pressure should be about 25 pounds on the fasteners. Sound right?

Also, the forward Bowman trapezoidal hatch leaks quite a bit. Replacement is nearly $1000. Anyone have success with the replacement seal for about $80? Is it as difficult to get that gasket in as the Lewmar portlights, ie, impossible?

[Chris Burti]

It was easy enough that I forgot how I did it… I do remember that you want to be sure get plenty of material into the corners

Fair winds,
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC

From: David Wellerstein
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2022 1:08 PM
To: C320...@catalina320.com

[Troy Dunn]

Some folks have had success just replacing the gasket on the Bomar hatch.
I had no such luck. The problem is that the sealant (Dow795) that seals
the lens to the frame needs to make a tight seal against the gasket too,
mine kept leaking no matter what I did. Since my hatch lens was over 20
years old it was EOL anyhow. I ended up making a new lens and
refurbishing the hatch. Worked out well. You can search the emails for
the write up. Pictures in my gallery.

Troy Dunn
Wonky Dog
Hull#514

[David Wellerstein]

So I broke down and bought four new Lewmar portlights for the cabin. We’ll tackle the others later but for now I’m excited to get these done.

Looks like removal is the toughest part of the job so I’ll do one at a time and see how it goes.

Big question is what material to use to bed the ports? It seems 4000 or (the variant from Pettit which I got for free at a local boat show) are right for a caulk-type. But I’m reading a lot about butyl tape. I would love for the C320 hive and to weigh in here. I’d love to hear from anyone who’s done both and what you’ve landed on as the best choice. Seems that since fasteners are holding the inner and outer frames together that adhesion is not the issue. It’s really about waterproofing and the butyl tape looks like it works fine. Add to that the ease of working with it and the ease of removal…seems like the right choice.

Thanks as always!

—David
C320 #118, Dream Catcher

[Jeff Hare]

David,

If *I* were rebedding side portlights, I would be using Butyl Tape. While I use Bed-It brand from Marine How-to, he's very unfortunately recovering from a tragedy and his store is offline (maybe for good). Butyl Tape is far less messy and easier to get right than polysulfide, Sikka or similar adhesives in my opinion. I would be likely to use more than one layer. Dicor BT-1834 is a butyl tape that might be a good option but I haven't researched it much. If you go this route, look into applying the tape to the window frame in a couple layers to be sure that it will conform and not leave any voids.

Clean the surface well first. Colinite 920 does a good job. Best to tighten the frame gradually on a warm day so that the butyl can properly fill out all the space. Remove any squeeze-out as soon as you can.

That's what I believe I would be doing if I had a hatch to rebed. I did the center salon overhead hatch like this years ago when I swapped the Aft Cabin emergency hatch with the main salon center hatch. The center had become crazed, so I swapped them. You don't have that option since your hull doesn't have the escape hatch in the aft cabin. That was an addition on hulls somewhere around 2000 or so.

-Jeff H.

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of David Wellerstein
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2022 12:39 PM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Portlight Replacement/Repair?

[David Wellerstein]

Thanks Jeff! Sailrite has 30’ x 1” white trimmable butyl tape for $12 a role. That should cover it. Amazon has the Dicor for about the same price. I guess white would be the best color for the hatches but hopefully my trimming will conceal it.

The Pettit product I was given was their “UV Resistant Adhesive Sealant” that I believe is comparable to 3M 4000. I’m sure it would work fine but be much messier.

Question: do I need to buy a torque measuring screwdriver? Or can I just hand-tighten being careful not to over-tighten.

Thanks again!

—David

[P.F. Ross]

Hi David,

I used butyl tape on all seven of my replacement portlights. But as Jeff
said, the "Bed-it" butyl tape that I really liked is not currently
available from marinehowto.com due to RC's medical situation.

Also along the lines of Jeff's comment, I used two layers of tape but I did
this by simply folding the tape over on itself along its length as I stuck
it to the frame. I stuck it to the angled edge of the frame that would
contact the hull first and not to the flat, somewhat recessed portion of
the frame that looks like it was made for sealant. I slowly tightened the
frame over a couple of days and would trim off excess using a plastic razor
blade (this is a real and handy thing, look it up on Amazon) and then clean
up with some mineral spirits. All are now leak-tight.

Good luck, please let us know if you find a good stretchy, sticky butyl
tape.

Frank Ross
Beta Wave #206
Naples, FL

[Dave Hupe]

I purchased 1inch wide x 30 feet long white butyl tape from SailRite in preparation to rebed my genoa track when the weather offers me a several day dry and warm window opportunity.  The price was maybe $12. It seems good quality but I haven't yet put it to practice.  So, time will tell (soon). 
Dave Hupe 
1994 C320 #32
Holland, MI

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 8:18 PM, P.F. Ross<pfr...@gmail.com> wrote: Hi David,

[Jeff Hare]

David,  Frank's got sound first hand advise here.  No special torque wrench needed since they are aluminum, but the butyl will squeeze into all the available spots if you use enough and tighten gradually until it feels snug. Then come back a day or two and snug it some more. Gently so that you don't strip any threads.The only reason I suggested dicor was that they are big in the RV roof sealing business and ought to know.JeffH
-------- Original message --------From: David Wellerstein <dwel...@mac.com> Date: 4/12/22 8:02 PM (GMT-05:00) To: "C320...@catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Portlight Replacement/Repair? Thanks Jeff!  Sailrite has 30’ x 1” white trimmable butyl tape for $12 a role.  That should cover it.  Amazon has the Dicor for about the same price.  I guess white would be the best color for the hatches but hopefully my trimming will conceal it.The Pettit product I was given was their “UV Resistant Adhesive Sealant” that I believe is comparable to 3M 4000.  I’m sure it would work fine but be much messier.Question:  do I need to buy a torque measuring screwdriver?  Or can I just hand-tighten being careful not to over-tighten.Thanks again!—David> On Apr 12, 2022, at 5:51 PM, Jeff Hare <Cata...@thehares.com> wrote:> > David,> > If *I* were rebedding side portlights, I would be using Butyl Tape. While I use Bed-It brand from Marine How-to, he's very unfortunately recovering from a tragedy and his store is offline (maybe for good). Butyl Tape is far less messy and easier to get right than polysulfide, Sikka or similar adhesives in my opinion. I would be likely to use more than one layer.  Dicor BT-1834 is a butyl tape that might be a good option but I haven't researched it much. If you go this route, look into applying the tape to the window frame in a couple layers to be sure that it will conform and not leave any voids.> > Clean the surface well first. Colinite 920 does a good job.  Best to tighten the frame gradually on a warm day so that the butyl can properly fill out all the space. Remove any squeeze-out as soon as you can.> > That's what I believe I would be doing if I had a hatch to rebed. I did the center salon overhead hatch like this years ago when I swapped the Aft Cabin emergency hatch with the main salon center hatch. The center had become crazed, so I swapped them. You don't have that option since your hull doesn't have the escape hatch in the aft cabin. That was an addition on hulls somewhere around 2000 or so.> > -Jeff H. > > > -----Original Message-----> From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of David Wellerstein> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2022 12:39 PM> To: C320...@Catalina320.com> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Portlight Replacement/Repair?> > So I broke down and bought four new Lewmar portlights for the cabin.  We’ll tackle the others later but for now I’m excited to get these done.  > > Looks like removal is the toughest part of the job so I’ll do one at a time and see how it goes.> > Big question is what material to use to bed the ports?  It seems 4000 or (the variant from Pettit which I got for free at a local boat show) are right for a caulk-type.  But I’m reading a lot about butyl tape.  I would love for the C320 hive and to weigh in here.  I’d love to hear from anyone who’s done both and what you’ve landed on as the best choice.  Seems that since fasteners are holding the inner and outer frames together that adhesion is not the issue.  It’s really about waterproofing and the butyl tape looks like it works fine.  Add to that the ease of working with it and the ease of removal…seems like the right choice.> > Thanks as always!> > —David> C320 #118, Dream Catcher> >> On Mar 27, 2022, at 1:32 PM, Troy Dunn <troutw...@gmail.com> wrote:>> >> Some folks have had success just replacing the gasket on the Bomar hatch.>> I had no such luck.   The problem is that the sealant (Dow795) that seals>> the lens to the frame needs to make a tight seal against the gasket too,>> mine kept leaking no matter what I did.   Since my hatch lens was over 20>> years old it was EOL anyhow.  I ended up making a new lens  and>> refurbishing the hatch.   Worked out well.   You can search the emails for>> the write up.   Pictures in my gallery.>> >> Troy Dunn>> Wonky Dog>> Hull#514>

[GREG SUTTON]

I have to redo my ports also. Just wondering if anyone knows if there is a diagram available showing how they are put together and where I can find it?
Greg Sutton
Liberty
#128

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Dave Hupe <hoop...@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2022 8:38:33 PM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com <C320...@Catalina320.com>

[P.F. Ross]

Greg, bunch of info here on the Lewmar website:

https://www.lewmar.com/node/11265?v=24318

Frank Ross

[David Wellerstein]

I guess color doesn’t matter but the Dicor only seems to come in gray. But I suspect it will be hidden by the frame so white or black tape would probably be fine too?

Question: will 3/4” wide tape be enough or do you suggest 1”?

Thanks again!

—David

[David Wellerstein]

So, I went to install four new Lewmar portlights thinking I’d get through one since I was starting at around 2:00 in the afternoon.

To my complete surprise, it was really quite easy and I did all four in about 3 hours!

The hardest part was removing the two or three fasteners per light that had become seized in place. Fortunately a YouTube video showed using a Vise Grip which worked great. The port lights were bedded with what looked like butyl tape but it was a very thin bead at best. I took the collective advice, used gray Dicro butyl tape and doubled it along the seam. Was easy though by the fourth install the tape was sticking to my fingers as I positioned it on the light. The only other hiccup was not knowing if I had the backing (inside) aluminum frame the right way around. I decided that the beveled edge had to be flush with the cabin, not the other which would have created a large lip between the frame and the cabin wall.

The only other thing was that the inside plastic trim piece needs to be trimmed and I didn’t have tin snips on the boat. But it looks good so far and I immediately sprayed water on all four — no leaks! I am almost looking forward to some rain!

OK…question: the forward trapezoidal hatch (Bowman) leaks. I noticed that there are no screws/fasteners under the hatch along the rim. This can’t be correct? Are the screws just buried? I can’t find them. Is re-bedding the forward hatch a monster job?

Thanks again for all the feedback! The plastic scraper works great since it is so easy to scratch the fiberglass with a putty knife (I did that). Also, I used Goof Off to get the residue off and it worked great. Followed that with Collimate 920 and it was just beautiful.

Fair winds!

—David

[rthru...@gmail.com]

Dave,
Rebedding the front hatch isn't bad. It's similar to the windows. I would suggest 2-3 layers of the tape at the corners. They just don’t get flush and the added tape helps...coming from someone that had to do it twice...
Rene'
Little Wing
#545

[David Wellerstein]

Thanks for that advice!

I spoke too soon (as usual) on the port lights. I actually had the backing frame (the side inside the cabin) backwards and had to reverse them all. And cutting the Lewmar plastic trim is an absolute bear. I still don’t have them in properly and am considering going without them, though my wife is loudly objecting to that idea.

Does anyone have a tip on how to trim those plastic covers??? I tried tin snips and I just can’t get in there.

Lots of butyl tape came out when I re-did the frames so I hope they are still good and watertight. But the nice thing about the butyl tape is that if I have to re-bed them it won’t be terrible getting them out.

Thanks all!

David
C320 “Dream Catcher” #118

[ROBERT MILLER]

Thanks for this update David. I’m about to do all six port in the next month or so, so this was inspiring!
Rob Miller
Alchemy, #571
Sidney, BC


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2022, at 4:17 PM, David Wellerstein <dwel...@mac.com> wrote:
>
> So, I went to install four new Lewmar portlights thinking I’d get through one since I was starting at around 2:00 in the afternoon.