[C320-list] Leaking Opening Port

[Christian]

My fore most, starboard side, opening port light is leaking pretty bad.

This opening port light is the original Lewmar model (aka Old Std),
original Plexiglas. I've replaced the O rings in the dog ears. I've
replaced the Plexiglas gasket. I've tightened all frame screws. Still
leaking badly.

I now believe the leak is coming from the aluminum frame, and should be
rebedded.

Any pointers for doing this job? Don't see any material on CatalinaDirect
for suggested material for rebedding (but plan on contacting them shortly
for suggestions). I have some of marine compass' butyl tape arriving later
this week (for another job). But I'm guessing since it's not a high
flex/stress area, there is probably better bedding material.

Thanks,
Christian Caperton
1994 C320 "Canuck" #138
Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL

[sail-ability sail-ability]

There should be an article on our website on how to fix this. U need to
replace the "S" gasket between the two haves of the frame. did mine 7
years ago and no leaks to date.

Cheers

JohnM

1999#574

[Troy Dunn]

I replaced all of those portlights this spring. Bed it is the right
choice for sealing if you go this route.

You could buy a repair kit and replace the gasket but, if your windows are
original then you might consider it time to upgrade to new ones. I did
try cleaning up one of the old lights and even bought the gasket with the
thought of refurbishing the cockpit opening lights one at a time, This
experiment did not end well...getting the new gasket installed properly was
not as straight forward as advertised. I could probably nail it on a
second pass, but the new lights on the cabin top look so awesome I'll
probably just do new ones in the cockpit too.

Troy Dunn
Hull#514

[Scott Westwood]

I agree with John M.  Our boat had the same leaking port(s).  The outside split frame did it.  I dug out the "s" gasket. and crammed in Bytle tape sealant (comes on a roll from Lowes/HD in the window weatherstripping department) and no leaks since.
I went around the whole boat 3 years ago and did every split frame.  No leaks "there" since. 
Thanks,
Scott Westwood scottw...@bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538     C (919)-618-7185 

[Rick Sulewski]

FYI - something to consider when replacing port lights :

Last year I discovered a way to easily remove/release each frame from the hull in less than 20 seconds each without damage and without prying off the frame from the exterior side (after removing all of the inside frame retaining screws).
I simply leaned against the frame from the inside with a screw driver placed first in the middle of each side for about 3-5 seconds and then in the middle of the lower frame section for a few seconds before I could simply push the frame off the hull. Used "Goof Off" to easily remove the old sealant from the hull in about 3 minutes for each port after briefly scrapping off a small amount of old excess sealant left after the frame released. Most of the time was spent liberally prepping the new frames with Bed It butyl rubber sealant. Installed each port from the inside to place it against the exterior side of the hull from the inside without the need for an extra pair of hands. Drew the frames tighter with the interior frame ring over several minutes to squeeze out the excess sealant that was easily removed from the exterior of the hull a few days later with a razor blade.

Rick Sulewski
My-Ria 95' 320 #277

[Ade Bateman]

> On Thu, Oct 05, 2017 at 05:31:15, Rick Sulewski wrote:
>
> FYI - something to consider when replacing port lights :
>
> Last year I discovered a way to easily remove/release each frame from
> the hull in less than 20 seconds each without damage and without prying
> off the frame from the exterior side (after removing all of the inside
> frame retaining screws).
> I simply leaned against the frame from the inside with a screw driver
> placed first in the middle of each side for about 3-5 seconds and then
> in the middle of the lower frame section for a few seconds before I
> could simply push the frame off the hull. Used "Goof Off" to easily
> remove the old sealant from the hull in about 3 minutes for each port
> after briefly scrapping off a small amount of old excess sealant left
> after the frame released. Most of the time was spent liberally prepping
> the new frames with Bed It butyl rubber sealant. Installed each port
> from the inside to place it against the exterior side of the hull from
> the inside without the need for an extra pair of hands. Drew the frames
> tighter with the interior frame ring over several minutes to squeeze out
> the excess sealant that was easily removed from the exterior of the hull
> a few days later with a razor blade.

While I've used Bed It butyl tape for resealing lots of things, I actually
used Life Calk for re-bedding my leaking portlights (and installing a
new replacement). I've found it more difficult to get a consistent seal
with the tape on larger areas where you need to bend and potentially layer
the tape. Plus you really need to tighten hardware incrementally to let the
butyl find it's way into all the gaps. I preferred a more liquid sealant
for doing the portlights.

Ade.

[Elizabeth Schwartz]

ahoy all.....The only leak I have on #245....'95.....is on one of the
opening portlights in the salon.....leaks between the plastic lens and
the gasket......would that be just the gasket to replace for
fix?....Thanks...Joe 

[jim brown]

I saw another way on Youtube to remove hatches from the deck that looked easy and should work on opening ports. The Lewmar rep had a pocked full of hardwood wedges each shaped like a door stop (flat side and tapered to a point on the other). They were about 2-3 inches long and about 1/2 " wide and about an inch high on the non tapered end but obviously could be made to fit the situation.  He lightly tapped these between the deck and the hatch all around about every 2 inches (flat side on the deck). They went in initially just a smidge. When he got them all round he just kept lightly tapping each one until the hatch just slowly rose off the deck like magic.
Jim Brown

[Christian]

Again, thanks all, makes complete sense now.

Joe, the gasket I bought to replace where it connects to the plastic lens
is:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/3524_727/opening-port-gasket-kitbrlewmar-old-std.cfm

Caveat though. Replacing this gasket is by far the most frustrating job I
have done yet. You really need to get ALL the factory silicon out of the
groove. Just when you think you've got it all out, you find more. Takes
me about 4 hours per port to replace this gasket. Complete headache.
-Christian

[Brian/Carol McLamb]

Excellent solution to the challenge. Thanks for sharing! Brian s/v Serenity

Sent from my iPhone

[mill...@aol.com]

Ade,
It is helpful if you provide a year and hull # for your C320 (in-case there have been changes in the area being discussed)
Thx
Art, #680, 2000

-----Original Message-----
From: Ade Bateman <ade.b...@outlook.com>
To: C320-List <C320...@Catalina320.com>
Sent: Fri, Oct 6, 2017 2:36 pm
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leaking Opening Port

[Scott Thompson]

I've found I can stop those leaks by thoroughly cleaning lens and gasket followed by generous application of Armour-All several times. But perhaps my gaskets are less worn.

[John Meyers]

I concur with Scott. I may not put on the implied "generous application"
but I soak a cloth with Armour-All and get the gaskets quite moist a couple
times a Michigan season and the drips stop from that incursion anyway. And
as Scott wrote cleaning the lens is very important too.

John Meyers
Muskegon, MI

On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 9:24 AM, Scott Thompson <surp...@thompson87.com>
wrote:

[Elizabeth Schwartz]

Thanks.....will give it a treatment.....Joe

On Sat, Oct 07, 2017 at 01:38 PM, John Meyers wrote:

> I concur with Scott. I may not put on the implied "generous
> application"
> but I soak a cloth with Armour-All and get the gaskets quite moist a
> couple
> times a Michigan season and the drips stop from that incursion anyway.
> And
> as Scott wrote cleaning the lens is very important too.
>
> John Meyers
> Muskegon, MI
>

> On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 9:24 AM, Scott Thompson wrote:
>
>> I've found I can stop those leaks by thoroughly cleaning lens and
>> gasket
>> followed by generous application of Armour-All several times. But
>> perhaps
>> my gaskets are less worn.
>>
>>> On Oct 5, 2017, at 1:28 PM, Elizabeth Schwartz

[Christian]

John, I actually tried the armor all trick right after you suggested when I
met you in Muskegon back in April. I've now cleaned the plexiglas
thoroughly, cleaned the gasket with armor all, replaced the o rings, and
now replaced the gasket. I believe my leak is coming from the 's' gasket
that I need to pick out at the frame joints. When it rains even slightly,
very much water comes out of the frame.
-Christian

On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 1:16 PM, Elizabeth Schwartz <schwa...@optimum.net>
wrote: