Re: [C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2182, Issue 1

[Lee, Cliff]

Doesn't really sound like a pump problem. 1) Inlet screen may need cleaning to ensure good prime. We often need to do that every spring to get a good prime. 2) pump coming on at night may just mean a small leak somewhere. We had a small pinhole leak in water tubing. Easiest thing to do till fixed was to turn pump off when not needed. That has actually become our preferred approach to keep boat bone dry. 3) Foreward/Aft tank faucet spitting just sounds like Foreward tank is low.

Of course, those could all be wrong and you might need a new pump! Good luck.

Cliff Lee - Comfort Zone #268

Sent from my iPhone

>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 10:30:55 -0700
> From: Gene Helfman <geneh...@gmail.com>
> To: C320...@catalina320.com
> Cc: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Potable water pump issues
> Message-ID:
> <CAG63oPO0S1aFm+k6-HG8VYPr...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Our Shurflo 2088-423-244 periodically continues to run after faucet valve
> is turned off (over sink or in head). Sometimes we can shut it off by
> opening and closing faucet once more but sometimes we have to turn off the
> breaker on the breaker panel. We also have to throw that breaker at night
> because the pump comes on without opening a faucet. Also, it stops pumping
> from forward tank, spitting air until we open both forward and aft tank
> valves.
>
>
>
> SO: is this a known problem, are there parts that likely need replacing, or
> should we just replace the entire pump (which is going to be challenging
> given how tight the space is where it lives). BTW: Shurflo says the
> 2088-423-244 has been replaced by model #3901-0216. Can I assume that all
> the connections match up?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene
>
> Satori, #398, 1997
> --
> Gene Helfman, Professor Emeritus
> Odum School of Ecology, University of Georgia
> PERMANENT address:
> 498 Shoreland Dr., Lopez Is., WA 98261
> (360) 468-2136
> geneh...@gmail.com
>

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[Danny Jensen]

Check for water heater leak under sink also. This was my problem.

Sent from my iPhone

[Caryl]

Check the whale fittings. Sometimes the hose is not all the way in and may cause a minor leak.

Harvey Hunt
818

Sent from my iPad

[Jerry Brown]

I had a faulty pump from Shurflo on delivery. They had a batch of faulty
pressure sensors. The dealer replaced a most of the pumps on the the
Catalina's he delivered in spring 2009. My hull number is much later than
yours but if the pump dates from around 2008/9 then that may be the issue

Jerry Brown
Indigo 1137

[Elizabeth Schwartz]

Ahoy....I had the same issue with #245. I have looked for a leak, and
have not found one yet. To reduce the cycling of the pump coming on, I
installed an accumulator behind the box under the stove. A good
reduction in the amount of time the pump runs......Joe N Beth  

On Sat, Oct 25, 2014 at 05:57 PM, Lee, Cliff wrote:

> Doesn't really sound like a pump problem. 1) Inlet screen may need
> cleaning to ensure good prime. We often need to do that every spring
> to get a good prime. 2) pump coming on at night may just mean a small
> leak somewhere. We had a small pinhole leak in water tubing. Easiest
> thing to do till fixed was to turn pump off when not needed. That has
> actually become our preferred approach to keep boat bone dry. 3)
> Foreward/Aft tank faucet spitting just sounds like Foreward tank is
> low.
>
> Of course, those could all be wrong and you might need a new pump!
> Good luck.
>
> Cliff Lee - Comfort Zone #268
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 10:30:55 -0700

>> From: Gene Helfman To: C320...@catalina320.com

>> Cc: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
>> Subject: [C320-list] Potable water pump issues
>> Message-ID:

[John Meyers]

Could it be that water in the pump is leaking from the high pressure side
to the low pressure side thus triggering the pump to run?

John Meyers

[Millers]

John, this is what I feel is happening
With mine. Only occurs when not used for awhile , no leak apparent.
Art. #680
Sent from my iPhone

[clb...@gmail.com]

the only time I've had any those issues was when the cockpit shower was not turned off completely. As to noise and excessive running in normal use, I replaced the OEM pump with a VSR. Much quitter only runs when water is running and no water hammer in the system…well worth the investment. Direct replacement other than re aligning the water line hold downs a little. Our pump is under the aft berth, and easy access.






Fair Winds
Chris Burti
Commitment
Catalina 320, #867

[dprudden]

Speaking of pumps, has anyone replaced their shower/fridge drain pump? My Jabsco seems to be about gone. I have pulled it out and put the intake end into a bowl of water with barely anything being pumped out, so it's not a priming issue. What have people replaced the factory pump with?

Thanks,
David Prudden
#787

Sent from my iPhone

[Kenny Geist]

David,

Are you saying that the fridge drain pumps out via the shower pump? As a new owner who has not yet used the shower drain pump, I am now wondering if the liquid from the fridge is just sitting there.

Thanks

Kenny Geist
Ken...@Prodigy.net
Windrifter 317
619-895-3406

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of dprudden
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 10:14 AM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2182, Issue 1

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[Greg Flanagan]

Yes one pump for both. There is a Y valve under the head sink. I only use it the shower and just was out my fridge with a sponge.

Greg

#1076

[Greg Flanagan]

I did replace mine. I will have to go look. I think it was just an exact replacement.


Greg
#1076

[Dick Walker]

The "Y" valve was added about hull 355 and is not on the older hulls.


Dick Walker
WindWalker II
C-320 #687 Yesr 2000 Model
Coronado YC, CA
619.435.8986

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Greg Flanagan
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 9:30 AM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2182, Issue 1

[coll...@aol.com]

I have noticed the white connection fittings on the blue pex water lines fail. It was a common problem with these fittings when they were introduces in the 90's.
I am spending this winter re-piping the water system with new "Pex" 1/2 with all brass fittings.
I have already replaced the two factory ball valves located at the water pump. I am also going to add a few "Tee" fittings with clean outs using ball valves to expedite the winter blow out with compressed air, this should eliminate any water locks.

I anticipate the project to cost approx $ 175 , but it will be a worth while investment. If anyone considers this only purchase the pex in straight lengths not the roll !!!

I use all "shark Bite brand fittings found at any home depot and the crimping tool cost about $ 40.00

Lou Reszoly
427

[Allan S Field]

The hot water heater should have a rubber tube coming out of the relief valve. I'd suggest placing the tube in something like a dry 1 liter soda bottle, get the water in the hot water heater hot both from the shore power connection and the engine, and see if there is water in the bottle. These valves fail fairly routinely and may be the source of your water pump cycling.

Allan S. Field
Sea Shadow - #808
Columbia, MD

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-lis...@lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Schwartz
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2014 8:54 PM
To: C320...@Catalina320.com
Cc: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2182, Issue 1

[Stephen Cox]

> Speaking of pumps, has anyone replaced their shower/fridge
> drain pump? My Jabsco seems to be about gone. I have pulled
> it out and put the intake end into a bowl of water with
> barely anything being pumped out, so it's not a priming
> issue. What have people replaced the factory pump with?
>

I had poroblems with mine not pumping.. There were two issues.

First, the inline strainer was full of hair.

Second, after I pulled the pump down I found a very small particle jamming
one of the rubber valves slightly open. Removing this fixed the problem.


Stephen Cox
Tegwen #1141

[ksp...@cox.net]

All,
My bilge float switch stopped working. Pump still pumps when I throw the panel switch to "manual". By the posted discussions on our site's list, I see it is likely best to swap out the float switch - correct? If so, the wiring looks fairly convoluted as it goes from the float switch, into conduit to the area of the pump under the port settee but then has a number of wires that go in multiple directions. Does anyone know of the best spot to splice a new float switch into the circuit?
Does anyone know how to access the article by Chris Burti that is often referred to in the discussion lists?

thanks,
Ken Spiro
MoonDancer #1089

[Graeme Clark]

I had this problem and dismantled the pump which contains four small non-return valves which are essentially rubber discs that sit over a hole in a plate.
The tiniest bit of grit or other foreign body that gets trapped between the rubber and the plate prevents a perfect seal and the pressure on the downstream side of the valve slowly bleeds away and thus the pump kicks in again.
I have to say that it wasn't a pretty sight and rather put me off using the potable water for anything potable!

(As an aside I bought a small pencil camera on the end of 30ft of cable that plugs into a laptop USB port and enables viewing the interior of pipes as small as 1/2 inch. When I put this down the water filler hoses of my 320 I was again somewhat disturbed by the algae and other matter that is clinging to the side - these tubes are corrugated and trap moisture. I plan to replace them over the winter with smooth sided clear plastic braided hose.)

Graeme

>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 10:30:55 -0700

> From: Gene Helfman <geneh...@gmail.com>

> To: C320...@catalina320.com
> Cc: c320...@lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Potable water pump issues
> Message-ID:

> <CAG63oPO0S1aFm+k6-HG8VYPr...@mail.gmail.com>

[Chris Burti]

No article but here are the relevant comment that I have made.

There is definitely no in-line fuse on #867 (nor will there be).

The OEM float switches are generally considered to be inferior to electronic
switches and prone to failure by those working with them regularly. The
consensus seems to be that it is best to replace them with an electronic
switch and add an old-style float switch a few inches higher up in normally
dry territory of the bilge on a bypass circuit as a fail safe.

I did replace mine with an electronic switch when it failed, but have yet to
add the bypass switch. I slid clear tubing up the wiring, made my
connections with Ancor heat shrink crimps and covered with heat shrink
tubing. I then slid the clear tubing over the connections and pumped the
ends full of silicone sealant. As the connections are in the bilge, an
environmental equivalent of a urinal...I don't think that is overkill.

I intend to add a second switch higher up connected to a second pump in the
future as I don't care to trust this important safety feature to one system.


This is what I installed:

http://tinyurl.com/3m57n4

I recommend a 1/4" spacer between it and the bottom of the bilge ,
because it will drain the bottom dryer than the pump pick up will draw
water and otherwise it won't shut off properly.
I could only find this problem raised with the SeeWater switch. (switch
failure-cb)

I should have been more specific…I installed a Sensaswitch which enjoys a
very good reputation. I understand that these may be manufactured now as
the Johnson ULTIMA electronic bilge pump switch. These reportedly at one
time may have required additional sealing of the wires by the
installer/consumer. The old ones like mine were encapsulated, the newer one
were not and I do not know if the issue has been addressed currently by the
manufacturer.

Initially, I had a problem with the pump not cutting off. Turns out the
switch is very precise. I installed the switch flush with the bottom of the
bilge and as the pump pickup is incapable of getting the last 1/4 inch or
so of water, I had to install a spacer.

Zero issues since then.

--
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC

[Bill Culbertson]

David,

I just did this last month on #859. Same symptom as you - I removed the pump and put the intake end into a bowl of water and nothing is pumped out. I opened it up to ensure nothing was lodged and it was clear. They don't make that actual model anymore (31610-0092) but Jabsco has an updated model which I bought: #32601-0092.
The new model fits perfectly in the existing space with existing screw holes. Plumbing and electrical are same except that the quick disconnect for the plumbing is MUCH better (bigger, easier to use). I bought from Roger at Water Pumps Now.

I discovered that the reinstall is MUCH easier if you put in the two outboard screws part way and then just slide the pump underneath the screw heads with the rubber shock absorbers in place. Then attach the 2 inboard screws and tighten all 4 down. You are screwing down the outboard ones blind once the pump is in place so it is good if they are already in the holes and holding the pump. Then attach the hoses via the quick connects by sliding the latch, pushing the hose into place and slide the latches back to grab it. Play with the quick connects while the pump is out of the box in your hands before you have it mounted so you're clear on how they work. When I removed the pump I had no idea there were plumbing quick connects. Wish I had known :) Knowing that made putting everything back much easier. The pump comes with a replacement water strainer which I'm keeping as a spare and with replacement hose-to-quick-connect fittings which I'm keeping as
spares. That is, I didn't change out any of that stuff with the new ones.

The wiring is 12g from Catalina and 14g on the pump (as I remember). I think this was true for the original model. So you can either use a stepdown butt connector or use compatible spade male/females. OEM was a butt connector.

-bill culbertson
Harmony #859

________________________________
From: dprudden <dpru...@comcast.net>
To: "C320...@Catalina320.com" <C320...@Catalina320.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 10:14 AM

Subject: Re: [C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2182, Issue 1