[C320-list] Winterizing the Yanmar 3GM30F

[Daryl Hunt]

My usual process for winterizing the engine is to run -50F antifreeze
through the raw water inlet until it comes out the exhaust.  My concern
is that this doesn't give the engine time to warm up enough to open the
thermostat, potentially leaving water in the engine block.  I haven't
seen any comments or procedures to deal with this so perhaps my concern
is unfounded?

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Best regards,
Daryl
1999 C320 #660 "Believe"

Rochester, NY - Lake Ontario



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[Doug Treff]

Daryl,

Your concern is unfounded.

The 3GM30F is a closed loop system, meaning the thermostat is on the
"Closed" side of the cooling system that always has a fresh
water/antifreeze mix circulating through it.

The raw water side that you need to winterize flows from the raw water
inlet, through the raw water pump, through the heat exchanger, then out
the exhaust to the muffler and on to the outlet. At no time does sea
water ever enter the engine block or thermostat housing. Therefore, your
winterizing procedure is correct.

Have someone watch the exhaust output on the outside of the boat and
verify that the antifreeze has fully expelled the water that collects in
the exhaust system. A good way to help this procedure is to drain the
standing water from the muffler box BEFORE you winterize, using the
petcock on the side of the muffler. That way there is less standing
water in the system to expell.

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Doug Treff
do...@treff.us

[Daryl Hunt]

Thanks Doug.  I should have been able to figure that out.
Best regards,Daryl
Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

[Michael Ferguson]

I have a 95 Perkins and wonder if anyone has experience and oil drip under the motor into the pan. All of a sudden I'm getting drips of oil only when the motor is running. It's not a lot but I'm assuming if it's only when the motor is running it's on the pressure side. Any ideas or welcome thanksMichael Nauti Clew 169

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On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 1:36 PM, Doug Treff<do...@treff.us> wrote: Daryl,

[John Morrison]

The 3GM30F has a heat exchanger through which is circulated raw water (from the lake) and the antifreeze which is in the engine block and hot water heater. All that is needed is to circulate antifreeze through the raw water system as the engine already has it's own antifreeze and thermostat does not need to open. The engine antifreeze should B changed every few years. The antifreeze U put into the raw water system should be notox or lowtox type and an automotive antifreeze is not required. This is because it just sits in the heat exchanger over the winter. In the spring U should catch this antifreeze at the exhaust and dispose of it properly.

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[Dave Hupe]

I have the same oil drip issue on my Perkins Perama M30 engine.  My boat is a 1994 model, but think the engine was actually built in 1992 or 1993 based on engine serial number data I have seen. The oil dripping is not severe.....more a nuisance. I originally thought it was oil that I had inadvertently spilled on the engine, by adding oil too quickly through a funnel during an oil change (that I couldn't get to and wipe off afterward as much as I desired). I have not been able to observe the oil drip source, but would like to if there was an easy fix.

Dave Hupe

1994 Cat 320 (hull #32)

Holland, MI

[argates2nd]

I replaced oil pan in #182 this year as oil dripped and the bottom of the pan was corroded.  Upon removal the inside of the pan looked ok so I don't know where the oil dripped from.The job required lifting the engine forward end for pan access and realignment of the shaft.  The mounts were fine after 900 hours.Rollie

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

Your concern is unfounded.

--
Doug Treff
do...@treff.us