[C320-list] replacing the main halyard

[Gene Helfman]

Our main halyard developed a hernia that hangs up at the clutch, dodger
eyelet, etc, so we figure it's time to replace it. I'm concerned about
proper threading through the invisible interior mast blocks and guides (no
idea what's hiding in there). My plan is to join (abutt) the new and old
halyards end to end with strong threading, then place a section of duct
tape that overlaps the joint and stitch that too to create one continuous
rope. Has anyone had experience with this? Any recommendations on the
best line to use for the replacement?

thanks,
gene
Satori #398
--
Gene Helfman, Professor Emeritus
Odum School of Ecology, University of Georgia
PERMANENT address:
498 Shoreland Dr., Lopez Is., WA 98261
(360) 468-2136
geneh...@gmail.com

"Give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day,
Teach a man to fish and he'll deplete the
oceans."

The Book of Bob, Ironies 24:7

[Utility Email]

Gene,

I did the same type of temporary splice when replacing my halyard. It worked very well. The line I used was new England Ropes Sta Set X. It is a pretty basic low stretch line with a good wear characteristics and a good "hand" (feel). You can usually find it on sale at WM if you are patient. Sampson also makes a good competing line. They are based here in the PNW and their lines are excellent. If you are even in Seattle, go the Fisheries Supply near Gasworks Park on Lake Union. They have an excellent selection of sailing lines by all of the manufactures and are also very knowledgeable. They also have a swap meet every year that you really must attend at least once. Boaters come from all over the PNW to participate. Great deals on gear and a lot of fun.

Since the wear points for the main halyard are at the turning points and the rope clutch, I have read where others have swapped the ends of the halyard and/or trimmed the end and installed a new eye splice and just reused the original line. My thoughts are that given the importance of the line, the fact that is is always exposed 24/7, hard to inspect, and the loads on the line, that replacing it is more prudent for the $100 to $200 that is costs.

It is nice to see another C320IA poster here in the PNW. There are a bunch of active posters in the Chesapeake area, several in California, but very few here in the Great PNW where we have world class sailing and cruising in the crystal clear waters of Puget Sound, the San Juan and Gulf Islands, and Desolation Sound. We have exceptional destination sailing like Rhode Island and the parts of east coast without the harsh winter weather, humid summer weather, murky water, and severe weather!

Good luck with your project.

Dave

Dave Swanson
S/V Emily Ann
2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
Mukilteo, Washington

[John Meyers]

Gene,

I replaced my main halyard this year too. I don't remember the length but I
learned the length from this forum. I seemed long but I bought the amount
anyway. I also learned from these people who contribute that it is best to
sew the ends together. I used several loops of monofilament fishing line on
the heavy side and used electricians tape to make the butt joint smooth
between the new and old halyard. It worked real smooth and the whole job
was done in under 15 minutes. It was so easy that I plan to use some sort
of cheap line over the winter on all my halyards so they don't weather.

I used a good bowline to attached the shackle. Every spring I plan to take
the bowline off and cut off a foot and reattach the shackle. As I said
before there is a lot of line left over if you buy the recommended length.
(I am thinking it was 115 feet but check the past posts and verify.) By
shortening the halyard by a foot every year the part that gets eaten up
slightly by the clutch isn't in the same spot every year.

John Meyers
Muskegon, MI
Wind Chime - 406

[jpm...@aol.com]

Did the same thing you are planning earlier this the year. It's an old trick I learned over twenty years ago and it will work fine. Do at least four stitches at 45* more is better. Than I would use electrical tape instead of duck. Electrical tape is much thinner and sticks to the line nicely.
Good luck. John Holokai 2

[Donald Lawson]

I have done this many times. Stich a small 1/8" diameter line between the old halyard and the new one. Does not matter as to the length as long as it runs cleanly. If you abutt and tape them you run the risk of having a hard spot that may not run cleanly around the mast sheave. I do not use tape for that reason. I taped once and it jambed at the masthead and the stich failed when I tried to force it. Your call. Make an eye splice in your new halyard for future changes unless you plan to switch ends due to wear. Line use is your choice, follow the guidelines from West Marine, Sampson, New England, etc.
Don Lawson #1005

[Warren Updike]

Another idea to extend the life of your running rigging is to periodically
remove about a foot from the working end (i.e., the end that attaches to
something.) This changes the location where the line sits on sheaves and
clutches. For the light kind of sailing most of us do, "periodically" means
every 2 or 3 ears.

Warren & Pattie Updike
1994 C320 #62 "Warr De Mar"

[Walter Schaffer]

What length replacement halyard is everyone in agreement with for 320?

Walt Schaffer
1998 Bohemian II #515

________________________________
From: Warren Updike <wup...@hotmail.com>
To: C320...@Catalina320.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 9:49 AM

[John Meyers]

I just looked at the manual

http://www.fairwind.org/boats/C320/Catalina320Manual.pdf

and the length of the each of the 4 halyards is 115 feet.

With the main halyard fastened to the hand rail there is still more than 10
or 15 feet on the loose end aft of the clutch. This is enough to shortened
the halyard by a foot for several yeas.

John M
Wind Chime 406
Muskegon MI

[Walter Schaffer]

tks John, we are looking to replace in spring.
Bohemian II

________________________________
From: John Meyers <jcme...@gmail.com>
To: C320...@catalina320.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 12:58 PM