[C320-list] Raw Water Pump Rebuild Perkins M30
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Jeff Smith
Jul 25, 2021, 4:36:31 PM7/25/21
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To all,
I thought I would share my experience rebuilding my raw water pump. This is for the Jabsco 29450-1201. Let me state upfront that I have re-assembled the pump but I have not installed it yet. It may leak like crazy once I start the engine. If so, I will update you. My thought in rebuilding the pump is that the kit was another $29 above the price of an impeller from Parts4engines. The pump from Parts4engines is $275. It was worth $29 and some wasted effort to try to save $250.
The two seals (oil and water) were hard, brittle, and cracked. One bearing had a grinding feel to it. It certainly explain the water I was getting from the shaft.
First of all, it was not extremely difficult but extremely frustrating as I was trying to make do without the proper tools. Things that may help:
Note: It is common when working on automotive suspensions to put the nut on a threaded bolt and use this to apply pressure so you do not damage threads on the fitting. I did this on my water pump shaft and damaged the threads on the shaft and in the nut. I had to use a tap and die kit to “clean up” the damaged threads so I could tighten a new nut that holds the gear that mates with the engine. My advise - anywhere below where I indicate I either pressed or hammered, I would use a flat metal piece (thick washer or spacer) between the force and the end of the shaft, to be safe. I eventually started doing this when pressing the bearings but I had apparently already damaged the threads.
0. You will need either a two-jaw or three-jaw puller to remove the gear on the engine side. I used a two-jaw.
1. I had to rent the ball joint/u-joint kit from Advance Auto Parts to press the bearings off the shaft. I keep saying I am going to buy a press for suspension work and then I don’t do it. You must flip the various kit parts around until you get the clearance you need to press the bearings off the shaft. You also need 1/2” socket wrench and sockets to use this tool.
2. Important - there are two circlips between the two bearings on the shaft. So, if you do like I did and press starting from the impeller side of the shaft, you will move both bearings and the circlips at the same time. It is possible that I scored the shaft. However, I have no idea (or know which tool) I could use to press off the engine-side bearing first so I could remove the circlips and then press off the other bearing.
3. To press the bearings on, you want to press on the inner race (metal circle) and not the bearings or outer race. The only thing I could find that would fit over the shaft yet only press on the inner race was a brass 3/8” coupler at Home Depot in the plumbing section. Every washer I tried would not work. I had to use the 3/8” coupler in conjunction with the ball joint kit and a hammer, which is not ideal, but it worked (see note about how not to damage your threads).
4. If you order the kit from Parts4engines as I did, it does not come with the small shaft o-ring or the engine mating o-ring. I reused the small shaft o-ring because it looked fine and I was in a bit of a hurry. It is probably worth the time to make sure you have that o-ring on hand. When I was reassembling my pump, I used this website to make sure I had the small o-ring placed correctly. You can order the parts there, though I don’t know that I could have paid $6.30 plus probably $10 S/H for an o-ring; thus, you might plan to source locally from the auto parts store.
https://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_29450-1201_parts.html <https://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_29450-1201_parts.html>
5. Re-inserting the shaft was not a trivial exercise. This required the use of a big hammer (5 lb sledge), a small coating of oil on the outer races and an 18-mm deep well impact socket (used in conjunction with BH, not an impact gun). The first time I tried this (without the oil, the 18-mm socket and the BH), I unseated the bearings, which required me to press them off and re-seat them again.
6. To clean the pump, I used a nylon wire wheel on my drill. I also soaked it in white vinegar and then scrubbed it with a brass brush (or brass coated brush). I would say 99% of the patina, grit and grime came off using just vinegar and the cheap brass brush. I did soak the pump for a while to clean the inside.
7. I have put about 8 hours of motoring on the rebuilt pump this past week. Water circulated fine and temperature stayed exactly where it should. It seemed like I had better flow and it is definitely not leaking.
That is it. I have a few pictures, mostly of the double circlip between the bearings. I am not sure they are particularly helpful but I am happy to share if anyone is interested. I hope this helps anyone considering this task.
Jeff
S/V Sailmates, ’94, #121
I thought I would share my experience rebuilding my raw water pump. This is for the Jabsco 29450-1201. Let me state upfront that I have re-assembled the pump but I have not installed it yet. It may leak like crazy once I start the engine. If so, I will update you. My thought in rebuilding the pump is that the kit was another $29 above the price of an impeller from Parts4engines. The pump from Parts4engines is $275. It was worth $29 and some wasted effort to try to save $250.
The two seals (oil and water) were hard, brittle, and cracked. One bearing had a grinding feel to it. It certainly explain the water I was getting from the shaft.
First of all, it was not extremely difficult but extremely frustrating as I was trying to make do without the proper tools. Things that may help:
Note: It is common when working on automotive suspensions to put the nut on a threaded bolt and use this to apply pressure so you do not damage threads on the fitting. I did this on my water pump shaft and damaged the threads on the shaft and in the nut. I had to use a tap and die kit to “clean up” the damaged threads so I could tighten a new nut that holds the gear that mates with the engine. My advise - anywhere below where I indicate I either pressed or hammered, I would use a flat metal piece (thick washer or spacer) between the force and the end of the shaft, to be safe. I eventually started doing this when pressing the bearings but I had apparently already damaged the threads.
0. You will need either a two-jaw or three-jaw puller to remove the gear on the engine side. I used a two-jaw.
1. I had to rent the ball joint/u-joint kit from Advance Auto Parts to press the bearings off the shaft. I keep saying I am going to buy a press for suspension work and then I don’t do it. You must flip the various kit parts around until you get the clearance you need to press the bearings off the shaft. You also need 1/2” socket wrench and sockets to use this tool.
2. Important - there are two circlips between the two bearings on the shaft. So, if you do like I did and press starting from the impeller side of the shaft, you will move both bearings and the circlips at the same time. It is possible that I scored the shaft. However, I have no idea (or know which tool) I could use to press off the engine-side bearing first so I could remove the circlips and then press off the other bearing.
3. To press the bearings on, you want to press on the inner race (metal circle) and not the bearings or outer race. The only thing I could find that would fit over the shaft yet only press on the inner race was a brass 3/8” coupler at Home Depot in the plumbing section. Every washer I tried would not work. I had to use the 3/8” coupler in conjunction with the ball joint kit and a hammer, which is not ideal, but it worked (see note about how not to damage your threads).
4. If you order the kit from Parts4engines as I did, it does not come with the small shaft o-ring or the engine mating o-ring. I reused the small shaft o-ring because it looked fine and I was in a bit of a hurry. It is probably worth the time to make sure you have that o-ring on hand. When I was reassembling my pump, I used this website to make sure I had the small o-ring placed correctly. You can order the parts there, though I don’t know that I could have paid $6.30 plus probably $10 S/H for an o-ring; thus, you might plan to source locally from the auto parts store.
https://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_29450-1201_parts.html <https://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_29450-1201_parts.html>
5. Re-inserting the shaft was not a trivial exercise. This required the use of a big hammer (5 lb sledge), a small coating of oil on the outer races and an 18-mm deep well impact socket (used in conjunction with BH, not an impact gun). The first time I tried this (without the oil, the 18-mm socket and the BH), I unseated the bearings, which required me to press them off and re-seat them again.
6. To clean the pump, I used a nylon wire wheel on my drill. I also soaked it in white vinegar and then scrubbed it with a brass brush (or brass coated brush). I would say 99% of the patina, grit and grime came off using just vinegar and the cheap brass brush. I did soak the pump for a while to clean the inside.
7. I have put about 8 hours of motoring on the rebuilt pump this past week. Water circulated fine and temperature stayed exactly where it should. It seemed like I had better flow and it is definitely not leaking.
That is it. I have a few pictures, mostly of the double circlip between the bearings. I am not sure they are particularly helpful but I am happy to share if anyone is interested. I hope this helps anyone considering this task.
Jeff
S/V Sailmates, ’94, #121
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