Thanks, all, for the quick responses!
Joel, your documentation is outstanding! It may take me the rest of the week to absorb it all. I have scribbled out a schematic that already includes much of what you have done. The crazy part is that the battery is only about 1/3 of the total cost of my materials list! So I'm trying to figure out if there's any way that my approach could be simplified.
Chip, my insurance policy with Progressive does not contain the words "lithium" or "LiFePO" anywhere, so I think I'm OK there.
Troy and Randy, I have read MaineSail's articles on LiFePO conversion multiple times, and get a little more out of them with each pass. I'm looking at a WattCycle 314AH battery in large part because he recommends that brand as the "economy" option, and the 314AH BMS is rated to handle the maximum 216A current my Victron inverter/charger could pull. (I'm too cheap to go with the Epoch brand he says would integrate more closely with my Victron gear). I have also looked at multiple tear-down videos of the WattCycle batteries from Will Prowse and others, which are generally positive about the construction quality. I've seen some complaints on-line that the WattCycle BMS doesn't play well in parallel battery banks, but I don't think I need more than 314AH total for house batteries. I have also seen complaints that the WattCycle Bluetooth app is buggy, but I already have a Victron shunt and display that will report most of the same information as the WattCycle Bluetooth app.
As far as protecting my alternator, that's one potential up-side to an external regulator, since it can have a thermal sensor on each of the batteries and alternator, and rate the current down in real time as things get hot. But I'm not sure where to start looking for a kit to convert my Lucas Alternator to use a Balmar or similar external regulator.
Randy, you're right that the potential benefit of regulating the alternator depends on how much it could produce without overheating, and I don't know how to find that out in advance. But if I could just split the alternator charge line from the starter circuit and send the alternator current straight to the LiFePO battery, and use a lower cost ACR or low amp DC to DC Charger to charge the start battery (which can't take that much current anyway), that could potentially save me a couple hundred dollars worth of Buss bars, switches, and 2/0 battery cable pigtails compared to the schematic that I initially designed to allow me to manually connect either the LiFePO house battery or the lead acid start battery to any load or charging source. And it would simplify operating practices as well.
It's a lot to consider, and I'm trying to avoid learning the unintended consequences after the fact.
Again, thanks everyone - this owners list is a tremendous source of good information!
Mark Seyler
S/V Reality,
Catalina 320, #232
New Orleans, LA