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Hot Sale ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping

If you're finding the right place for ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly? Welcome to our review of the ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly, where we present information gathered from a variety of sources, including reviews, overviews of this product. If you can't decide whether to buy or not. You might want to browse through some reviews or try to check update price below. I hope this information will help your decision.

TITLE :ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly ASIN : B006DUJSIQ BRAND :ATP PRICE: $1,075.93 If not sure !!!!!! Check !!!!! >>> Check Price !!!

ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly: Opinions

This ATP brand rebuilt front differential is the same brand and part number that is sold by places like Advance Auto and AutoZone to name only a couple. The difference is that their price was $2199.99 and $1999.99 respectively While Amazon's price was less than HALF of that!!! Wow! It was available with Amazon Prime so I got it for under $1000 with tax and shipping in 2 days! There was an outfit in NY that offered the rebuilt unit complete with extension housing and new bearing and seal with free shipping for under $900 but I was in a rush so I opted for Amazon.

Now, to the rest of the story. Be aware that these units in the AWD (All Wheel Drive) vehicles are notorious for bearing failure because they must really only be engineered for part time use with regular 4WD vehicles where it would not always be turning. There is much news on this part failing on the net. In my case the Denali had only easy highway miles and only 120,000 miles. When I went to drain the oil and put in fresh oil, I had some ugly silver tinted oil and a whole mess of metal shavings stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. It kind of reminded me of Lady Liberty the way they were sticking off of there! Anyhow, I did not want this to suffer a catastrophic failure or lock up at highway speeds so I started shopping. Please note that this unit regardless of whom you order it from, does not come with the extension housing that runs over to the passenger side. Because of this, you will re-use your old one and the outer needle bearing and seal really ought to be replaced or at the VERY LEAST, you should blast it clean multiple times with brake / Parts Cleaner spray to wash out all the metal filings and crud that washed around in the oil. In my case, I opted not to replace them and after thoroughly cleaning and inspecting them, I packed some clean grease into the needle bearing and seal lip so that it would be very well lubed right off the bat.

Removal and installation.

This is a tight fit and you need to be prepared to wrestle with a 80 pound watermelon so if you are not able be forewarned. I should have removed my plastic skid plates and gone to the car wash and laid down to blast all the grime and grease off of this area. Because my steering has been greased at ever oil change since new there was grease and dirt all over the steering linkages right where I needed to work. Do this! Trust me otherwise it is a VERY VERY dirty job instead of just dirty!

You'll then need metric wrenches and sockets up to 18mm and I think 21 also but I did not have one so I used a 15/16 with no problem. You'll need to drive the front up on some sturdy ramps and block the back wheels. Emergency brake is a good idea too but don't rely on it alone as some don't work as well as they should. Once it is firmly parked, turn the wheels as far left as they'll go to get the steering linkage to swing over and away from the differential and give you the maximum amount of room. Because the wheel rotates back a half turn or so before locking when you turn it off, you can keep it at hard left with a bungie cord or rope if you want the extra bit of wiggle room which I now wish I'd done because it took a while especially when I was putting it in. Now check to make sure you are still good to go on the ramps!

Remove the cross member under the differential. Drain the oil (13mm wrench) and remove the vent hose located sort of infront of and above the driver side CV shaft flange joint. Remove the 6 bolts on each of the disc type joints using a 15mm socket. This may be tough because you can't rotate them so on second thought, you out to loosen those while you can still move the vehicle back and forth and potentially you could already have 3 of the 6 out (every other one). The CV shafts stay where they are and you can just pry them off to the side as best you can. Using an 11 mm wrench remove the front drive shaft. Now you have 2 large bolts that hold the unit in place and these will take a while to undo using a combination wrench on each end and plenty of very small incremental movements. You also have 2 nuts and washers on the end of the extension housing. Once removed the differential will just lay up there stuck in place. They tell me this assembly can be removed and installed in one piece BUT I did not know this and proceeded to remove the passenger side extension housing and drive shaft to allow me more room and to wiggle it out easier. If you want to do this also, remove them before unbolting the 2 big mounting bolts so it is firmly in place. Put a pry block against the cv flange to push the axle out of the case and give it a light tap or a medium tap to pop it out of the C-clip retainer inside. Then remove the 6 or so bolts holding the extension housing on and lower both pieces down. I had no problem rotating the housing enough to get it out... the front portion went to the drivers side.

Compare the new unit to the old. If it looks the same you still need to check a coulpe of other items. On mine, the vent hose was 3/16 yet the nipple on the replacement was bigger and I did not notice it. Obviously the hose would not fit so I ended up having to run a new hose. If yours is different, unscrew the big plastic gizmo with the nipple and swap them. It will click as you unscrew it but that is normal both unscrewing and replacing it. Also in speaking with one guy he said that the 4x4 units don't have a snap ring retainer on the shaft ends inside the gear carrier. Look deep inside and near the end of the splines just before the sun gear shaft that crosses through you should see a snap ring on each side. Make sure the replacement has the same.

You'll need to remove your driver side axle too. Apply fresh grease to the oil seal and axle before push and popping it back in place. Also make sure to use Anaerobic gasket maker to re-attach the extension housing and not silicone. This was stressed on numerous forums so obviously there is good reason and for a few dollars you don't want to do it twice! In my case, I opted to wrestle the differential back into place without the driver side axle shaft installed nor the extension housing. Once I had it back in place but not bolted in yet... 40 minutes and 7 times trying (wish I'd bungie corded the steering wheel all the way left) then I poped the Drivers side Shaft in as well as the vent hose.

Apply the sealant and assemble the extension and shaft and pop it in. Attach the unit to the mounts and reassemble the cv joint flanges. Install the drive shaft. It is a good idea to apply grease to the rubber boot where it sticks onto the AWD transfer case. It rubs rubber von metal there and some lube is a good plan.

To add oil, use about 2 feet of pex 1/2 inch water pipe from your favorite Lowes or other store and run it in from above the front tire. The fill plug it at 9 oclock vs the drain plug at 6 oclock when looking at the driver side of the unit. 15 mm wrench. Don't lose the plastic gasket. Fill with synthetic 75/90 gear oil until it runs out of the plug. Install plug.

Reinstall the cross member but not your plastic skid plates.

When you first test drive, go slow and listen carefully in case something is wrong or forgotten. Drive with the passenger side down in the ditch a bit to get the oil to run over into the extension housing and then go back and park it on a level spot to check the oil level. The tag said 3 to 4 pints but mine took all 2 quarts (4 pints) before running out of the fill hole. Do not over fill nor under fill.

My 2 cents says, change this oil every 20,000 miles and save doing it again in a few years! Oil is cheap and it beats having the metal grindings and sludge ruining your bearings. If it was a 4x4 I'd not be concerned as it hardly gets used but in the AWD this is a real issue!

Hopefully this all makes sense and I didn't forget anything. Now it is working as it should... quiet and no clunking when i press the gas, let off and press again! Good Luck with yours!

If you are looking for ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly ? I'm sure its a good looking product for the price. I bought this and I'm really happy with this product. It was a great price. I will be very happy while using product. I would recommend it. I might buy another from this store. I was very happy with the product also it arrived quickly. Works perfectly and you'll not beat the cost. Locally the price was much higher. I would recommend the product, the price was right the product quality was excellent. You have what you buy. I 'll not complain though for that price its ideal. Was as described. Good product to the price. Would recommend to others for your purchases. This store is an excellent place to locate deals.

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ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly: Summary

Brand new units are no longer available. ATP's fully remanufactured differentials offer the best alternative to bench rebuilding or buying used. They are carefully inspected and totally reconditioned to meet original specifications and include new bearings and seals. Our units are ready to install, just add oil.

For those who have planning to buy it in a very lower price ? you ought to to check the consumer reviews & price ranges from several shops. You will be glad to see how convenient this item might be, and you will certainly feel good knowing that this ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly is amongst the best selling piece on today.

ATP 111500 Front Differential Assembly Detail & Feature

• Contains new bearings and seals for long life
• Ring and pinion rigorously inspected assuring durability
• Reconditioned to meet original specifications for trouble free operation

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