I've never really developed a lead load at 50, but here's my jacketed load. Starline brass will do fine in place of the below WW.
I posted the following to the forum recently:
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When I load for 50 yards, I get really particular about it, down to using a home made guide rod to ensure the bullet starts and stays aligned with the case as it is seated. From a barrel tester, my Kart Easy-Fit produced groups right at one inch at 50 yards, with Bullseye just over one inch and VV N310 just under.
For those enquiring minds and so I can write this once and refer to it if ever needed...
My 50 yard load procedure:
components:
- once-fired (or, new primed, if available) WW brass
- Nosler (or, Zero) 185gr JHP bullets
- WLP primers
- 4.3gr VV N310 (or, 4.5gr Bullseye) powder
dimensions:
OAL - 1.197"
crimp - .470"
If using
once-fired WW brass, I decap all of it and use a large pistol primer pocket uniformer to cut each pocket to a precise depth. Then I use a hand primer tool to seat each primer just below flush, paying attention to the feel of the seating with my thumb.
I used to individually check the weight of each powder drop, but I've since stopped checking and just accept what the machine drops. However, the way I use my powder might be a bit different from many reloaders. Once I remove powder from the original container, any leftover amount does not return to that container. Instead, it is added to a second container. For my 50 yard loads and any match ammo, I use fresh powder from my original container. The other powder is used for training ammo. I empty the powder hopper after each use.
So, the next step is bullet seating. As mentioned above, I created a rod with a shaped end to fit exactly inside the cavity
of the hollow point bullet. My seating die has a hole in the center through which I place this rod. When I set the bullet on the open case, I lower the rod into the cavity, which aligns the bullet, and I then proceed with the seating. As the shell plate travels upward, the rod extends further above the die and at the top I capture it so it doesn't travel back down with the bullet after seating. If I didn't capture it, it would interfere with the process as the shell plate rotates.
For the crimping stage, it's just a standard taper crimp. I've always considered it difficult to measure the crimp by trying to adjust the calipers across the case at the very edge, so I use a little bit different method - I set the calipers to the desired crimp and lock them, then check that measurement against the case mouth.
One more bit of nitpickiness: I use an original Square Deal progressive press and I only consider the
rounds that come out of the press while the shell plate is full to be consistently loaded. Therefore the first and last three rounds of a batch are considered "inferior."
I also have a 50 yard load that uses the Remington button-nosed Jacketed 185gr SWC (the one that looks like the Federal match bullet). Of course, I can't use my alignment rod for that one. But, otherwise I do all the same work.
One last note because someone will wonder: I remove the decapping pin and run all the primed brass (both versions) through the sizing die on its way around the plate, even though I really shouldn't need to.
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