Please help with sticking issue

Skip to first unread message

Daniel Goldberg

Jul 1, 2014, 6:27:49 PM7/1/14

I have been having issues getting my prints to stick.  Was at the point of giving up when I found your product.  I have been trying it the past days and now have an opposite problem.  I can not get the prints off the buildtak no matter what I try.  Reheating again and again or trying to take it off once its done with a putty knife.  I have broken 2 of my glass plats trying to get the prints off as well.

Nozzle is fully level around the build plate and set to be a credit card thickness from the build plate.

My questions are:

What temperature should the extruder be set at?  
What temperature should the bed be set at?  
What happens if either temperature is to hot?
Is there a release agent I can spray on top?

I am printing ABS 3mm on an Airwolf 3d XL.

Hope to hear back soon because I really need to get this to work.

Thank you


Ronald Whittington

Jul 1, 2014, 6:51:15 PM7/1/14
A freind of mine has been using cold air in a can, like the computer duster spray, to chill the part and it pops off, although he doesnt use buildtak yet.
He is using a Makerbot Thingomatic with 3 mm ABS
He tells me he found this trick on YouTube somewhere and it has worked for him.
I am only using ABS with my Buildtak sheets and so far have had to pry firmly but have not had over adhesion yet, so I personally have not tried the cold air in a can.
I am using a FlashForge Dual with BuildTak, extruder at 230c, bed at 110c and nothing else
Good Luck


Jul 2, 2014, 9:26:54 AM7/2/14
Hi Dan,

We print 1.75mm ABS at extruder temp of 235C and bed temp of 110C. We do not spray any agent on our prints but what Ronald mentioned with the cold air seems interesting. We've heard of that before but havn't done it ourselves so we can't personally tell you if that will work or not. Generally when prints stick too well when printing on BuildTak it means your nozzle height is too close. I've quoted a few lines from our "Tips and Best Practices" thread in this google group. 

"When trying to find that sweet spot it is better to start with the nozzle height on the high side and run a test print where you pay close attention to the first layer of the print. You will know right away if the nozzle is too far because the extruded filament will not stick and in that case, no harm done to the sheet. Just reduce the nozzle height slightly and try again until it sticks." 

In your case try setting the nozzle height higher (further away from the build plate), pay attention to the first layer, and adjust until you find the right level of adhesion. This can take some practice but like most other things it gets easier the more times you do it.

Also thanks for the help Ronald! 3D printing thrives off makers sharing techniques and ideas with each other and thats how we've learned the majority of what we know.

Nick Sears

Nov 27, 2014, 12:50:34 PM11/27/14
I'm assuming (and didn't notice this detail in the comments) that the tip with the compressed is to turn the can upside down? 
There's a disclaimer on the can saying never do this, but it sprays freezing liquid that may help the printed part contract and pop of the bed.
When turned upside down, compressed air cans spray the liquid form of the air (flourinated hydrocarbon) that evaporates, cooling below freezing.
It may be better just put it in a freezer. Either way be careful of shattering glass if that's what you're using.
And as for what you might actually need to change for your printer, I would suggest lower temps for the bed and less squishing.
That said, I have been having trouble with keeping larger prints adhered at 80C with ABS (nonenclosed)

Ronald Whittington

Dec 1, 2014, 9:54:46 AM12/1/14
Can right side up works fine, I have tried it now and just the cooling effect helps. I do have trouble getting some prints off of the buildtak when they are at 110c and ABS
PLA at 50 to 65c comes off well and adheres well.
My only issue is now becoming , How many life cycles can a new sheet of BuildTak typically stand before it becomes smooth and wont hold anymore?
I get bulges in the BT when I have pried too many things off of it, and I have noticed it seems to get smoother with use, although I havent counted to tell you how many prints it has endured.
Once the BuildTak gets smooth and shiny, it is difficult to get new prints to adhere, and I have cleaned it with the %70 alcohol that was mentioned in some previous post
Anyone else have an idea how many cycles of use to plan on ? I want to be sure I have more on hand for larger tasks. I printed a Halo Helmet in 22 parts that took 60 hours and had to change BuildTak in the middle of that, but it wasnt new when I started.

Dan Pinvidic

May 11, 2021, 10:20:07 AM5/11/21
to BuildTak
You said you broke two of your glass plates.  My understanding is that the magnetic plate should be attached directly to the heated bed (discard the glass plate).
The purpose of this produce is to be able to bend the buildtak plate after removing it from the magnetic plate.
why does this not work??
Reply all
Reply to author
0 new messages