ASA stuck on Buildtak sheet. Please help!!!

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Didi Alexe

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Jul 22, 2020, 1:59:50 AM7/22/20
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Hi all,

I have a large print to do for one of my clients. I use ASA (similar to ABS) and the parts are stuck on buildtack sheet. I destroyed 2 sheets already!!!
In the photo attached you see the product and the sheet destroyed (last one).
My settings:
Printer: Raise3d pro2+
Material: ASA
Gap noozle-buildplate: 0.2mm
Buildplate temp: 95(0C)
Noozle: 0.6mm
First layer Flowrate: 110%
First layer Height: 0.4
First layer Extrusion with percentage: 110%

I need First layer settings to waterproofing the printed part.
I tried many solution including: using glue stick (I found somewhere on the internet), removing after printing finish, removing after buildplate cooldown. None worked for me.
I need advice to address this problem (remove part)
Magicoo Original could work? I read that after cooldown it is easily to remove ABS parts.

Thanks a lot for your advice!!!

IMG_20200722_064919.jpg

IMG_20200722_064957.jpg
IMG_20200722_064949.jpg


BuildTak

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Jul 22, 2020, 8:25:13 AM7/22/20
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Hi Didi,

Thank you for choosing BuildTak and we’re sorry you’re experiencing this issue.

ASA, is very much like ABS in that finding the sweet spot with the nozzle height is the key to success, often times you have to try different bed and nozzle temps. Can you let us know your removal technique for harder to remove prints? 

Based on the photos you are showing us, it sounds like your nozzle gap was a bit too close and more than likely caused the ASA to adhere too well to the BuildTak Surface. Mastering the first layer is very important, I'm going to include a reference photo you can use when starting new prints. Finding that 'sweet spot' with help for both proper adhesion and. removal:

leveling compilation2.jpg

We look forward to hearing back from you and solving this issue. 

Regards,
Dave 




Didi Alexe

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Jul 22, 2020, 10:56:21 AM7/22/20
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Hi Dave,

Thanks for your quickly reply.
To harder remove the part I used a spatula with rounded edges (made by me) immediately after print finished (at about 90 grade).
The sheet was treated with BIC stick glue because the clean buildtak was to "sticky".
The gap between nozzle and buildplate was 0.2 mm.

Today, on the second printer (same type, same settings and same treatment of the surface) when finished printing 2 pieces (same with the previous one)  side by side, I was luckier.
  1. I left build plate cooldown completely. 
  2. With same spatula, gentle I made same spaces between parts and buidplate
  3. I sprayed a little alcohol (for cleanup windows) around the parts and let away same time;
  4. I repeted several time step 2 & 3 and succes !!! I removed both parts without damaging the sheet.
But, is too hard to do that and time consuming. 
I hope to find a better method....

As I said, the gap was 0.2 mm. You suggest to increase the gap to more then 0.2 mm?

Thanks!
Didi

BuildTak

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Jul 22, 2020, 11:49:14 AM7/22/20
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Hi Dede,

Thank you for the additional information! 

Yes. Increase the gap ever so slightly and incrementally and print the first layer as a test. When leveling or adjusting your nozzle height, be cautious and print slightly farther away than you might expect.  Do a test print, and if you don't get good adhesion or experience warping, nudge your nozzle height closer in 0.05mm increments. Use the image above the find that coveted 'sweet spot.' If it continues to adhere too well, you may want to lower the bed temperature. Try and test on areas of the sheet that are unused.

When your print is complete, use your spatula to get under and sweep across the bottom of the print, resisting the urge to twist the print or pry upward.  Twisting or prying upward can cause a large amount of stress to a very small area of the print surface, causing it to pucker or even tear when printing too close - especially with more abrasive materials like ASA. 

Furthermore, you may want to consider the FlexPlate System down the road (although, let's try and solve what's going on first). Although more abrasive filaments such as ABS and ASA can be harder to remove, being able to flex the plate in conjunction with a Spatula makes it a powerful combo in removing 3D prints. 

Keep us updated in your progress and please take photos during the process :-) 

Regards,
Dave 

BuildTak

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Jul 22, 2020, 12:05:07 PM7/22/20
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Hi Dede,

Please check prior message, but to piggy back the previous email, I have a few additional questions. Can you also provide your nozzle temperature? Also, can you let us know how many prints you attempted on the Surface before you experienced the issues?

Thank you,
Dave 

Didi Alexe

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Jul 22, 2020, 1:16:46 PM7/22/20
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Hi Dave,

Tonight (Romanian hours) I intend to print another piece.
For that I will lower the builplate temperature from 95 to 90 degree Celsius and further to 85 if needed. ASA Fillamentum recommend 80-105 degree.
I do not intend (for now) to increase the gap because I need waterproofing the surfaces.

Nozzle diameter: 0.6 mm
Nozzle temperature: 255 (0C) Lowering temperature generate big problems with interlayers adhesions.

I think after 5-6 prints the problems arise.
Relatively small part with rafts --> No problems
PLA parts --> No problems.
Only large and rigid parts ABS ASA (with large surface on buildplate), no rafts, with Brim --> Big Problems at removal only !!!

Thank you,
Didi

Wolf Little Psycho

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Aug 28, 2020, 4:14:25 AM8/28/20
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Hi Didi,
what tool are you using for removing the print? I am owner of small company, we invented special grind and process to create ideal print removing tool for BuildTak (regular one sided / sharpened tools are damaging either print or BuildTak itself), i would love to make collaboration with BuildTak to help more users. It has been tested for 3 years, we are delivering them to Prusa company for their MK series (built version) and also different one for SLA printers.
My uncle owns a robotics company and uses our invention for 2 years as well, before he tried all different tools and had similiar issues with BuildTak (even with original BuildTak removing tool, it allows you to use more force, but more force can make more damage. He is printing durable boxes for his robotics sets and he had problems with big parts as well.
Best Regards from Czech Republic.
Stanislav


Dne středa 22. července 2020 v 19:16:46 UTC+2 uživatel Didi Alexe napsal:
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