Nice article, Simon, thanks. Thumbs up for your (stern) advice to lose the gimmicks and keep it simple and subtle. Tell that to our Minister of Health who habitually wears pointy, shiny, multi-coloured dress shoes (only in the Netherlands).
On the issue of multiple buttons on a single cuff: I like to have two buttons on my dress shirt cuffs, but only use the upper one (closest to the elbow), which allows the cuff edges to move a bit, while at the same time staying closely fitted to the wrist. Added advantage is that you have a spare button to close your cuff if the other button snapped off.
Interesting, thank you! Re: more than one button on a cuff. There are two buttons in a row on my shirts so as to vary the fit when with/without a watch. That was an idea the shirtmaker came up with.
When not wearing a watch you just use the 2nd button and the 1st button close to the edge is hidden.
Perhaps not that beautiful, but very practical.
A few observations :
I have a limited number of no nos : single cuffs with cuff links bar stiff evening dress ; worse, single cuffs with cuff links that can also button ; two buttons to tighten / loosen the single cuff ; cocktail cuffs.
Likes :
Classic Turnbull & Asser three button cuff
Old school American one button soft cuff, like Mercer or Brooks Brothers as it was.
French / double cuffs that are not too big. ( T & A are too big for my taste ).
Two buttons on country shirts, tattersall, flannel.
I discussed the 3 buttons cuff with Turnbull & Asser once, and they explained they first started to do this cuff for a customer wearing large watches, so that instead of enlarging the cuff for the watch to fit underneath, he could let the 3rd button opened and wear his watches without feeling discomfort.
Actually I find that multiple buttons do have a function. Most cuffs of my RTW shirts, are moving around the button, so that edges of the cuff are not aligned at the wrist. I find this pretty annoying at least with dress shirts. A double button cuff does prevent the cuff edges from moving around, which is why I always order double button cuffs. (I also prefer the optic but thats something else) . However I cant imagine an additional function of a three button cuff.
Best regards, Frederic
The Western Front incorporates both the Soft Front Placket and an extended, stylized yoke detail along the shoulders. A casual design option, the Western Front will automatically set the yoke to our Western yoke style to complete the look. Western flap pockets and snap buttons are optional.
Commonly known as the Fly Front, the Covered Placket is a more formal style placket with an extra piece that covers up the buttons on the front of the shirt. Commonly used for tuxedo shirts, this certainly will give your shirt a very clean, dressed-up look.
Similar to the French Front in look and construction, but the top four buttons below the collar are removable in order to be replaced with tuxedo studs. We suggest only going with this option when buying a tuxedo shirt.
The accordion is played by compressing or expanding the bellows while pressing buttons or keys, causing pallets to open, which allow air to flow across strips of brass or steel, called reeds. These vibrate to produce sound inside the body. Valves on opposing reeds of each note are used to make the instrument's reeds sound louder without air leaking from each reed block.[notes 1]
Further innovations followed and continue to the present. Various buttonboard and keyboard systems have been developed, as well as voicings (the combination of multiple tones at different octaves), with mechanisms to switch between different voices during performance, and different methods of internal construction to improve tone, stability and durability. Modern accordions may incorporate electronics such as condenser microphones and tone and volume controls, so that the accordion can be plugged into a PA system or keyboard amplifier for live shows. Some 2010s-era accordions may incorporate MIDI sensors and circuitry, enabling the accordion to be plugged into a synth module and produce accordion sounds or other synthesized instrument sounds, such as piano or organ.
The most obvious difference between accordions is their right-hand sides. Piano accordions use a piano-style musical keyboard; button accordions use a buttonboard. Button accordions are furthermore differentiated by their usage of a chromatic or diatonic buttonboard for the right-hand side.[17]
Accordion size is not standardized, and may vary significantly from model to model. Accordions vary not only in their dimensions and weight, but also in number of buttons or keys present in the right- and left-hand keyboards. For example, piano accordions may have as few as 8 bass buttons (two rows of four), or up to 140 (seven rows of twenty) or beyond. Accordions also vary by their available registers and by their specific tuning and voicing.
The bellows is the most recognizable part of the instrument, and the primary means of articulation. The production of sound in an accordion is in direct proportion to the motion of the bellows by the player. In a sense, the role of the bellows can be compared to the role of moving a violin's bow on bowed strings. For a more direct analogy, the bellows can be compared to the role of breathing for a singer. The bellows is located between the right- and left-hand keyboards, and is made from pleated layers of cloth and cardboard, with added leather and metal.[20] It is used to create pressure and vacuum, driving air across the internal reeds and producing sound by their vibrations, applied pressure increases the volume.
Different systems are also in use for the left-hand keyboard, which is normally used for playing the accompaniment. These usually use distinct bass buttons and often have buttons with concavities or studs to help the player navigate the layout despite not being able to see the buttons while playing. There are three general categories:
Price is also affected by the use of costly woods, luxury decorations, and features such as a palm switch, grille mute, and so on. Some accordion makers sell a range of different models, from a less-expensive base model to a more costly luxury model. Typically, the register switches are described as Reeds: 5 + 3, meaning five reeds on the treble side and three on the bass, and Registers: 13 + M, 7, meaning 13 register buttons on the treble side plus a special "master" that activates all ranks, like the "tutti" or "full organ" switch on an organ, and seven register switches on the bass side. Another factor affecting the price is the presence of electronics, such as condenser microphones, volume and tone controls, or MIDI sensors and connections.
In the 2010s, a range of electronic and digital accordions were introduced. They have an electronic sound module which creates the accordion sound, and most use MIDI systems to encode the keypresses and transmit them to the sound module. A digital accordion can have hundreds of sounds, which can include different types of accordions and even non-accordion sounds, such as pipe organ, piano, or guitar. Sensors are used on the buttons and keys, such as magnetic reed switches. Sensors are also used on the bellows to transmit the pushing and pulling of the bellows to the sound module. Digital accordions may have features not found in acoustic instruments, such as a piano-style sustain pedal, a modulation control for changing keys, and a portamento effect.
As an electronic instrument, these types of accordions are plugged into a PA system or keyboard amplifier to produce sound. Some digital accordions have a small internal speaker and amplifier, so they can be used without a PA system or keyboard amplifier, at least for practicing and small venues like coffeehouses. One benefit of electronic accordions is that they can be practiced with headphones, making them inaudible to other people nearby. On a digital accordion, the volume of the right-hand keyboard and the left-hand buttons can be independently adjusted.
The constraints of the Stradella bass system, limiting the left hand to preset chord buttons, is a barrier to some jazz chord conventions. Jazz accordionists expand the range of chord possibilities by using more than one chord button simultaneously, or by using combinations of a chord button and a bass note other than the typical root of the chord. An example of the former technique is used to play a minor seventh chord. To play an Am7(add9) chord, the Am and Em preset buttons are pressed simultaneously, along with an A bassnote. An example of the latter technique is used to play the half-diminished chord. To play an Eø7, a Gm preset button is pressed along with an E bassnote.
Which button to use on a barrel cuff? You will most often see two buttons on the cuff, next to each other. This allows men with narrow wrists to achieve a snug fit or open more for wider wrists. Sometimes extra buttons are added vertically for visual interest, but these have no practical purpose.
British spies placed rolled up letters and small notes into a variety of holsters to hide potentially sensitive information. The hollowed out quills of large feathers that were used as writing utensils, for example, could hide a tightly rolled up letter. Other materials were used to hide messages, ranging from buttons on a textile to hollowed out small, silver balls. One particularly unlucky British spy named Daniel Taylor was caught in New Windsor, New York with a message sent from Henry Clinton to John Burgoyne hidden inside one of these small silver balls. In haste, the spy swallowed the silver ball to avoid detection. However, Patriot soldiers forced the spy to drink a purgative and vomit up the ball. Momentarily undeterred, Taylor grabbed the ball and swallowed it again. Under the threat of being hanged and having the ball cut out of his stomach, Taylor relented. However, Taylor would eventually meet the cruel fate of the gallows, executed on October 16, 1777.
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