Vw Battery Change
Yogprasad Moneta
I am having the same exact issue. It was perfectly working fine this morning when I left home, now it is dead. No power, no lights. It is just a fancy deadbolt now. I have 3 of these and the 2 are working fine running the same firmware 01.25.0023.
Hey, just had this happen to me today too. Got a low battery warning. Changed batteries to Kirkland / Costco brand and unit stopped working. I put the original batteries back in and it works again. Idk what to think. Please help!
We moved in our new home purchased this for convenience been loving in past 4 month. After the original battery alert low battery and stop locking. Changed brand new battery and it only last 2 days and i changed again last another 2 day having same issue found this post people mention same problem as me utech please help!
Having struggled myself and after reading peoples woes on here I finally manged to open the pesky QB remote. The latch you need to depress is dead central on the remote body. I found a nice thin electricians screwdriver and gently pushed it into the gap between the top and bottom half. No more struggles it practically fell off!!
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This remote is a fail, and a Naim product disaster. I have two of them (for Mu-so and Mu-so Qb2), and the dealer already replaced one because the tab failed when I finally got the battery compartment open: the cover would no longer stay on without tape.
The original Panasonic battery was at 3.01V when I changed it. It was working OK but I got the message on the dash asking for a new battery and that's when everything went wrong. I'd say the key has gone wrong but why would it happen just changing a battery - confused.
Decided to pull the battery out of my unused spare key, rather worried that it would also die! Guess what, the 'old' key now works perfectly with the battery from the unused one. Put a new battery in the unused key and the light flickers red as if that battery is dead. I think the problem is the shitty batteries I bought from Amazon. 10 on a card for 2 ... what a bargain ... not ?
Yeah. Looking at Amazon reviews, I think even some of the 'Duracell' and 'Panasonic' ones on there are not really what they say. The inferior ones read 3.3V but must sag too much when asked to transmit the RF to the car. Even more likely on a low mAh CR2025 vs a CR2032. I get the same thing with some FPV quadcopters I fly - hit the throttle and the voltage drops hugely ...
Exactly same thing happened to me recently too. Bought new batteries from a petrol station and my fob would not work. Tried the spare and that was fine. Took the battery out of the spare and put it in my everyday key and it worked. Bought new batteries from tesco, which looked identical to the ones I bought from the petrol station and the fob worked straight away. Can only assume that the batteries I bought from the petrol station were dodgy.
@JonSW I know you said you did 18000 miles, but is it mileage or time that drains the battery? I had my keyless R for 11 months and the battery is now dead. Have read comments to suggest that I kept the car key too close to the car and they kept 'checking-in/communicating' hence the dead key battery. I too have risked some from Amazon (pack of 5) i'll see how long they last.
Seems to be time related, not driving distance. Lots & lots of reports of batteries not lasting very long. I usually disable KESSY on my R and the batteries in both remotes still had plenty of charge at 18 months ( I replaced them anyway with Renata CR2025s anyway after reading all the reports of failures).
they replaced both batteries again (actually twice as they tried another set), did not charge me for anything and the one with intermittent issue, they have logged as potential warranty issue to make things easier if it fails again. As I will be in extended warranty period, they wanted to log any niggles etc to make it easier for them claiming against VW.
I have an SMT1500RM2UC that is showing a battery replacement date for October 2017, so it's throwing a warning. I think initially the date/time was messed up, but that's corrected now. This unit was manufactured in November 2021, so we have the last battery replacement date set for November 2021, but it's still showing an incorrect next replacement date. I did a chat with support where the person told me to try a reset to factory on the LCD, and set me a KB, but the KB i was sent does not match the options on the UPS. The UPS is in a remote location so I would rather fix the issue remotely. There is an NMC on the system, so I would hope I could do what is needed remotely. Any suggestions so I can fix this and make the battery warning go away?
Log back into the NMC and go back to the same location (Config > General > User Config File) and now Browse for the edited file.
Apply it.
If you are not prompted by this update, reboot the NMC (not the UPS) via Control > Network > Reset/Reboot.
We did do that. We set it to November 2021, which is the manufacture date of the UPS. However, we still have 2 problems: 1) in the NMC, if you go to Status -> Next battery Replacement Date, it still has a next battery replacement date of 10/16/2017 2) In Smart connect, it shows an error on the device also - showing that it is past the battery replacement date. It's like the "Next" battery replacement date is ignoring the last replacement date.
Thank you very much. This did indeed change the next battery replacement date in the NMC to a future correct date. It still is not showing up correctly in SmartConnect, but I'm assume lag behind a bit until maybe it checks in?
I think we have all went by the instructions on replacing the battery and still no luck . This time I made a point of buying a good branded name like Duracell , in my case I bought an energiser battery , worked 1st time.
The problem with the design is that the battery cover will install two ways. One is where the projecting tab points to the lock-unlock symbol, and the other where there is a short line embossed on the cover that points at the lock-unlock symbols. The second is the correct way to install the cover. The projecting tab will be at the bottom. Garmin should not have designed the cover so it can go on the wrong way and render the sensor inoperable.
I had problem to get connection after removing the old battery. Must have bent the brass connector, but after some research on youtube I managed to see how to bend it back and how the brass cage shall be possitioned. Really bad design.
I took my trusty Swiss Army Watch (24221) to an electronics store for a battery change, and they tried a battery that was a hair too thick, then one that was too thin, before we found the proper size (Renata 371 in case anyone has the same problem). However, the watch did not spring back to life. It had worked fine prior to the battery change (except that it was signalling low voltage with that jumpy sweep of the second hand every few seconds). Also, I was present for the whole procedure and didn't see any undue handling or any insulators falling out or anything that could explain it not restarting.
Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I'd prefer not to throw out one of my favorite watches if there is still something that can be done, or at least know how to verify that it is really dead. I read that sometimes the "gears have to be spun" to resuscitate the movement, and that this can be done physically or magnetically. How is that done?
I think this is an FE movement. There is a positive contact (the one you slightly unscrew to release the battery). and obviously a negative contact. Make sure the battery is not upside down. The writing on the battery should be facing upwards.
The second thing to look for is to make sure the battery isolator is not missing. This, I think, is orange in colour and resides between the lower negative contact - between the negative contact and the lower plate. If the negative of the battery is in any way touching the metal plate of the watch movement (e.g. if the isolator is missing) then the battery will be shorting and the watch will not work.
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