Safe Movie Trailer
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Jacquelyne Betance
Aug 5, 2024, 7:06:47 AM8/5/24
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TheWeigh Safe Drop Hitch is the best aluminum drop hitch on the market. This hitch features our signature built-in gauge that measures tongue weight so you never have to worry about an unbalanced and unsafe load again. Crafted out of solid, aircraft grade aluminum, the Weigh Safe Drop Hitch is not only sleek but offers a Towing Peace of Mind with every towing journey.
Need more security? Choose from a wide variety of accessory locks to further secure your truck and trailer. Order your ball mount with a Hitch Locking Pin or an entire Lock Set (Hitch Locking Pin, Coupler Latch Lock and Padlock) and have them all keyed alike to your Steel 180 PRO. You read that right, ONE key for everything!
The most important thing, whether you are planning on hauling a horse around the country or around the corner, is to make sure your trailer is in good working order. Maintaining the functionality of your trailer is critical to the ease and safety of transport.
Inspecting the floor of your trailer is an essential part of trailer ownership. If you have floor mats, pull them up regularly and check underneath. Look for wood rot, rust, holes, and broken welds. Areas of weakness increase the risk of your horse falling through the floor. As you can imagine, a leg through the floor can result in a life-ending injury.
Next, be sure to check your door latches and hinges for any pieces that may be rusty, loose, or missing. As a cat who manages a vet clinic, I see way too many lacerations sustained on horse trailers. Please also check the interior of your trailer for screws or other sharp things that your horse could find to hurt himself on.
Some very small horses or ponies might be at risk of turning around in the straight stall of a trailer if they are left loose, or they may find themselves under a bar or panel where they could get injured by another horse. However, most horses find comfort in a bag of hay in front of them and the ability to move around as necessary.
At rest stops, check your horse to make sure everything is hunky-dory. Remember to offer your horse water when you stop, to prevent colic on a long trip. I recommend always carrying extra water with you while you are shipping your horse. You may be going five minutes away or five hours away, but either way, extra water is very important. A trailer on the side of the road full of horses can get dangerously hot very quickly.
Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!
Interior dividers and the butt bar impeded her movement as she struggled to stand and escape. Meanwhile, the other two horses danced around nervously beside her. We were all helpless as we watched the mare lurch to her feet and saw the safety release dividers give way all around her.
Incidents like these highlight the importance of choosing a trailer that has the right type of safety features to protect horses on the road. Along with Double D Trailers owner, Brad Heath, I have compiled this list of horse trailer safety hazards that you should avoid at all cost. These are the types of horse trailer design flaws that can lead to very serious accidents.
Each horse person is going to have their own personal experiences that help mold the type of safety practices they use on a daily basis. It is our job to learn from these experiences to make the best decisions for the health and well-being of our horses and family members. Hopefully this list of dangerous trailer features will provide some guidance for the next time you go to purchase a new trailer.
With funding from the California Fire Safe Council, Fire Safe Sonoma now has a fully outfitted defensible space tool trailer available to community groups. The tools have been selected to specialize in vegetation removal and hazard fuel reduction. Check out the inventory!
Work parties are a great way to put the trailer to use! We encourage you to organize your community to have a work day to work on your shared community. If you need any help organizing this work party, reach out to us and we can provide assistance. We know that engaging your community in fire prevention is super important! Some examples of work party goals can be roadside hazard fuels reduction work, maintaining community defensible space, or clearing fuels and debris from your properties! Hours spent organizing this work party can be put towards FireWise or used as match hours for any current and future grants.
You must fill out the online Intake Form prior to booking the resource. We will need to have the completed form before we can release this resource. Once you finish filling out the form, email [email protected] and let us know that you are interested in using the trailer.
One of the fundamental principles of trailer loading is to distribute the weight evenly. Aim for a balanced load to prevent the trailer from swaying or fishtailing during transit. Place heavier items in the center of the trailer and distribute lighter items evenly on both sides. This helps maintain stability and ensures a smoother ride.
Properly securing your load is non-negotiable. Use tie-down straps, bungee cords, or cargo nets to prevent items from shifting during transit. Securing the load not only protects your cargo but also enhances the overall stability of the trailer. Double-check the tightness of straps and ensure that everything is snugly in place before hitting the road.
Understanding the aerodynamics of your trailer can significantly impact fuel efficiency and towing stability. Arrange items in a way that minimizes wind resistance. Place taller items towards the front of the trailer and use aerodynamic cargo carriers if needed. This small adjustment can make a big difference in fuel economy and handling.
Organize your cargo by grouping similar items together. This not only makes loading more efficient but also helps with weight distribution. Grouping items of similar size and weight ensures a balanced load, making it easier to maintain stability during transit.
Different regions may have specific regulations regarding trailer loading. Ensure that you comply with local laws, especially when transporting goods over long distances. This may include weight restrictions, cargo dimensions, and additional safety measures. Familiarize yourself with these regulations to avoid any legal complications during your journey.
Proper loading is just one aspect of safe trailer towing; your driving habits play a significant role too. Adhere to speed limits, maintain a safe following distance, and anticipate turns and stops well in advance. Smooth and cautious driving enhances the stability of your trailer, reducing the risk of accidents.
Modern technology offers various tools to aid in trailer towing. Consider using trailer sway control systems, weight distribution hitches, and backup cameras to enhance safety and convenience. These technologies can provide real-time feedback and assistance, making the towing experience more comfortable and secure.
Explore LINE-X by Weigh Safe hitches for reliable towing. Equipped with built-in tongue weight scales, they ensure precise load measurement and increased safety. Whether towing trailers or boats, these hitches provide strength and durability.
Explore the exceptional quality of LINE-X by Weigh Safe hitches, meticulously crafted for optimal towing performance. Our hitches stand out with built-in tongue weight scales, ensuring precise load measurement for enhanced safety. Whether towing trailers or boats, the LINE-X 180 Switch Hitch and the LINE-X Scale Hitch offer a perfect balance of strength and durability. Our dedicated team of experts is ready to guide you in selecting the ideal hitch, providing comprehensive assistance from choosing the right model to hassle-free installation. Trust LINE-X by Weigh Safe hitches for a towing experience that seamlessly combines expertise and excellence, ensuring confidence on the road.
This is still in progress, sorry I have been very busy with life and starting to get active in the group again. I will be back with more and photos to finish it...... If you see something you think is incorrect feel free to pm me and I will look into it.
A few things before I start, disclaimer; I'm not an electrician and I'm not responsible for your actions. If you are not familiar with electrical wiring spend the money to have an electrician who knows RV wiring to inspect you trailer. You can check with local RV stores for qualified electricians on staff. I research what I don't know and make a plan and I wanted to share some of what I have learned. This is not a how-to but simply what I did and I'm sharing it. Do your own research and take 110V power very seriously. It is very dangerous and can cause serious even fatal injuries. It can also start a fire in your trailer. If you are not comfortable doing the work hire someone that is qualified to do electrical work and familiar with trailers. Just remember that you are trusting your life and possibly others to this system. This is not the time to be cheap and save a few bucks. Do it right. You'll sleep much better at night. Also, remeber these are vintage campers that have probably had multiple owners and you never know what the prior owner did that might be wrong. I don't care what they say about it working, you need to check the electrical system. Example mine had the 15amp plug on the outside, 35amps worth of breakers in the box, and the wire from the inlet to the box was original. See the silver braided insulated wire on the left, that's from the inlet. One of the prior owners didn't know what they were doing. Here is what it looked like. I have since clean up some of the mess. Did I mention someone had been taking their kids camping in it at the time I bought it. There is soo much wrong here I don't even want to think back on it. This is NOT how to do it.
Info you might NOT know. Most of these vintage trailers came with a plug on the outside that looks like the end for an extension cord with a cover over it. If you only plan to run about 15amps of power that may be safe depending on its condition. If you plan to run 30amps that plug is not rated for it by todays standards. You could possibly even be turned down by a campground because of it. It is best to replace it with a new modern plug. I will talk about this later and show you what I did. Depending on the year your vintage trailer was made it could have old round glass fuses or more modern breakers. The glass fuses are not really bad but can be a hassle because you have to replace them if they blow, whereas a trip trips and can just be switched back on. You shouldn't just switch one back on unless you know why it tripped. You can replace the glass fuse box with a breaker box. You can find them at most Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware type stores. Just like old houses, most of these old trailer don't have a ground wire. You can add a ground to your old system and I'll talk about that later also.
Wiring Sizing. It is very important that all wiring is the correct size. Too small a wire for the load (amps) and it heats up and can melt the insulator which can cause a fire. If you don't believe me feel a cord for a vaccuum or a space heater after its been on a while. It will be warm. Samll appliance manufacturers will use the smallest size wire they can to save money. Ok back on topic, You need to understand the sizing of wire called gauge (ga). The smalleer the number the thicker the wire and the more load it can carry safely. Example; 14ga wires can be used on a 15amp circuit but no more, but 12ga wires can be used on a 20amp circuit, and 10ga wires can be used on a 30 amp circuit. You will see on the outside of modern wiring a stamp that tells you what the wire gauge is and how many conductors, 14/2 means 14ga and 2 conductors (that does not include the ground wire so there are three strands). If you want to know more follow this link and make sure to look at the ** note at the bottom.
I'm not going to get into voltage loss. Just know that the longer distance of power cord the thicker or bigger gauge (smaller number) the wire will need to be to carry the same amount of power. So if you want to be 100 feet from your generator, buy the 100 foot cable, yes it maybe more expensive than two 50 footers but it is probably a heavier gauge. If its not then do some research and make your own decision.
Evaluate your Needs, Make a Plan, and a Drawing. Ask yourself how much power you need. Make a list of everything that is either wired in or you would plug in and outlet. Check the amp rating on all electrical devices and add them up. it should be on a label on the side or bottom. If their is no rating, like on a light bulb, there is a simple formula.
watts/volts=amps Example; a 60watt lightbulb at 110V 60 watts/110 volts=0.55 amps (that is per 60 watt bulb)
Some devices will say ex. 1500watts at 120V. I always use 110 for my math because dividing by 120 will be less amps. I would rather error on the side of safe and you never know what voltage you are really getting at a campground.
You should also consider that some things like a fridge or AC unit have a higher start up amperage than they need to run. So if you round any numbers, round up not down. An electrical general rule of thumb is not to exceed 80% of your total amps on a circuit at one time. A circuit is the all the devices on one breaker or fuse. So if you decide that you are going to use an electric heater keep in mind a typical small space heater is 1500 watts. So that's 1500w/110v= 13.64amps. I would call it 13.7amps. On a 15amp circuit thats about all you can run, maybe a light or two, but then you risk triping the breaker and are exceeding the 80% rule. Tripping the breaker happens either when there is a surge, possibly from an AC unit starting up, or when there is too much load (too many amps) and hopefully never from a fault (bad wiring or outlet). Yes outlets can go bad, its not common but can happen.
Power Inlet (the plug on the outside of the trailer)
After you have made your list of all electrical devices and figured up your max load, then you can decide what inlet you need. 15amp, 30amp, or 50amp. If you choose 50amp be aware that not all campgrounds/parks have 50amp service or may only have it at certain sites. 30amp is the most common in modern campgrounds. Vintage trailer supply has many options to choose from but there are other sources.
Here is a 15amp
I went with the 30amp stainless from VTS. I didn't want grey plastic visible.
Since I already had a 30amp 50 foot cord I bought the end adapter and watertight cover for this type of inlet. It was easy to install and didn't take long. I did have to make the hole slightly bigger through the aluminum and wood of the wall but my dremel made quick work of it. I do have some wiring experience. Again find someone qualified if you don't understand or are not comfortable doing the work.
Another Inlet Option. You can do away with the old inlet and hard wire a power cord. Vikx has been helping me and so some pictures are not mine. You'll see in the picture below, the power cord ( which are stranded wire) comes into a junction box and wire nuts connect it to a solid copper wire that then goes into the breaker box. This saves you money in the long run. You will need a place to run the hardwired power cord out of the trailer. They make a small pass thru thing for this. These are two newer boxes and a good example of a clean installation in a breaker box. Notice the ground busbar
Power Cords. Your power cord provides power but also safety. The power cord needs to be sized to match the rating of your inlet. This is because the different amp inlets have a different plug. They do make adapter plugs but do not exceed the rating of the adapter. Every 15amp to 30amp adaptor I have found is only rated for 15 amps. The power cord supplies your electrical system with its ground. This is why everyone should have a simple 3 light 15amp household plug tester and a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter if you are using a 30amp cord or the campground doesn't have the 20 outlets. Not to offend any electricians but everyone makes mistakes and some electricians helpers are not the brightest. You should always check the power outlet at a campground before pluging in. Just my opinion. FYI, I've never found a plug that was bad. Here is an example of one. I also carry a 30amp to 15amp adaptor to check the 30amp plug before plugging in. The two combined are about $10.
Wiring to the Breaker Box
This is where some poeple forget or get lazy. The same gauge rules apply here as everywhere else. If you have 30amp power you need the 10ga wire from the inlet into the box. Change this when you change the inlet, its much easier because 10ga dosen't like to bend much.
Breaker Boxes. You can buy a breaker box off the shelf at alomst any big box store. Again 30 amp is the most common, but you can do whatever fits your needs. In my picture above a PO used a black 30amp power cord and cut it up and used it for interior power wire, while the power rating is fine, there is one big issue. You don't want to use braided or stranded wire. Its too easy for a strand to be loose and contact another wire that it shouldn't. Solid copper wire is also much easier to secure. The breakers are sold seperate so make sure to buy the correct type and brand of breaker to match you box.
Ground Buse Bar. Many of these old trailers had no ground wired from the breaker box. You can and should add one for safety. Electricty follows the path of least resistance back to the ground and its better for it to be a wire than you or a loved one with their hand on the outside aluminum and barefooot standing by the camper. A ground buse can be found at the big box stores and a small one is probably about $5. You connect the ground coming in from the inlet to it and the grounds for all the circuts to it and secure the bar on the inside of the breaker box where there is room. You can barely see the ground bus bar in the bottom left of my box pictured above. It looks like a few screws side by side. One of the POs had installed it.
Inside Wiring and Outlets. Inside wiring and outlets fall under the same gauge wire for amps chart linked above. Below is a wiring diagram someone found in their Shasta 19 Deluxe showing the 110V and 6V ceiling light and battery. You should make a diagram or plan like this if you are completely redoing your electrical system not just for reference now but also later. Make your plan and revisit it a few times before starting because you are bound to make a few changes.
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