Flyer Test 1
Jacquelyne Betance
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You did not indicate whether your locomotive is steam or diesel. However assuming it is a steam locomotive, and it has a 4-plug jack panel at the rear of the locomotive cab, you can apply a jumper wire between the two center holes of the jack panel. This short-circuits the connections that usually go through the reverse unit. You can then apply power leads to the two outside holes, and the motor should run. With diesels there is no easy way to bench test a motor, you pretty much have to test it on a track with the shell removed.
Pardon, but your comment leads me to believe you haven't had a lot of experience working on this brand of train. The "little switch" on the bottom of the tender is a mechanical lock out for the reversing mechanism. The reversing mechanism is a mechanical device that uses an electro-magnet to spin a drum that opens and closes electrical contacts. With the lever disengaged the drum will cycle each time you turn the transformer off and on. The locomotive will then run in forward or reverse alternately. With the lever engaged, the drum is frozen in one position and the locomotive will run in one direction only. Either forward or reverse depending upon how the unit was set when the lever was thrown. There is also a neutral setting. If you are extremely lucky, it is possible that someone locked the reverse unit while it was set in neutral and that's why the train won't move. You could just try moving the lever to the opposite position and see if that starts the train.
The reverse unit is a common point of failure on these older trains. Does it (the tender) buzz and click when you turn on the power? If not, you could have a faulty unit. You will have to take the shell off of the tender and examine the unit. Sometimes all it needs is a good cleaning with contact cleaner. More often the issue is that the wipers for the electrical connections have worn out. Replacements are available from various sources on the Internet.
Before you do anything with the tender you should try the jumper trick on the locomotive. If you can get it to run you know the issue is in the reverse unit. Otherwise you have different problems. Good luck.
To test the motor independently of the reverse unit, you must pull out the plug that joins the tender to the locomotive. Then wire up the motor according to the instructions given above. Here is a diagram to help you. Use the wiring diagram for "4 wire" locomotives.
You are right. I have 0 experience. I was going to sell them and wanted to make sure they worked before I put them on craigslist. Would you have any idea what they are worth in working and non working condition?
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This is my original Scratch Build The C.4 Swoosh. This plane was designed orignally to be a simple park flyer, but has been recently up-graded to be a capable high-speed flyer as well. Designed for a Talented and Gifted Program at my School the Swoosh is my first successful scratch-build.
The Swoosh was based off the experimental Vultee XP-54, nicknamed Swoosh gooseling, an intercepter designed during Wold War 2. The Aircraft was said to have good handeling performance but was underpowered and slow.
My aircraft also had good performance to start, butthe position of the wings and size of the tail boom made it a little tail heavy. I ended up using 6 AA batteries in order to make it balance with a 2200 battery.
In order to make it more capable to hit high speeds, I gave the wings a thinner airfoil, going from 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch, and adjusted the size of the booms and the position of the wing so the aircraft could be more nose heavy. Other changes inluded redesigned ailerons and control surfaces to improve control and the vertical stablizers being extended in order to counter-act the expected torque of the bigger motor.
The immediate result of the changes was that the aircraft's performance BOOSTED to phenominal. It instently became a much better flying aircraft, having vastly increased role rate, and improved control in the pitch and yaw areas. The only things i would change after that were hatch designs.
As you see in the video the aircraft flies pretty decently at (kinda) high speed. The maximum speed I attained with the model in all types ended up being +60 mph with a 4 cell, as measured from an Eagle Tree airspeed sensor.. The prop i used with the 35-36 was a 7 * 6 APC prop, and I don't think it supplied enough thrust. I intended to start using a bigger prop, startimg with a 8*6 and going up as I went along.
The biggest issue with the design ended up being that the motor of the plane continued to heat up during flight. I attempted several methods in order to ventilate the motor. NACA ducts, poster board vents,.... thats it. But so far the motor still heats up easily in flight. A similar problem existed with first model, but was easier to fix due to it not being a swappable.
I would like to begin by saying I am a complete RC/articles noob. I have built and flown the swappable 3-pack, but I mainly like the flyer. Everyone who has seen me "fly" has asked me to do a barrel roll, and I, being not quite ready for the delta, have to crush their dreams by saying "This plane can't do that," or "I don't know how," or "I don't have any ailerons." That gave me an idea. I talked to my dad about my crazy thought. We drew it out, designed, and redesigned. The result was this:
The ailerons took only 30 minutes to an hour to build seeing as they are so simple in design. Though easy to do, a few issues still arose. Our first idea was to put the servo on the other side of the rudder and elevator servos, but there was most likely going to be servo arms bumping into each other and control rods messily overlapping. the servo being furter away from the control surface also set the control rods more perpendicular to the ailerons.
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