Bristol 32 windows
alfred ailsworth
dcneuro dcneuro.net
On Aug 25, 2021, at 3:20 PM, 'alfred ailsworth' via Bristol Yachts <bristol...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Need to replace B 32 windows. Any advice on materials and process would be appreciated. Thank you. --
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M K
Need to replace B 32 windows. Any advice on materials and process would be appreciated. Thank you.
--
dcneuro dcneuro.net
On Aug 25, 2021, at 7:20 PM, M K <mhk...@gmail.com> wrote:
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bristol-yachts/CAFNZt%3D9msoHnrsM6YmsdLQFKTT2Z10znU5QtFXnY8T4Q9GLyqQ%40mail.gmail.com.
M K
1. Portlight replacement – some additional comments
The Portlights Replacement document, posted by “Alyssa” is excellent – read it over several times and be grateful for the idea to use threaded rods to keep the frames aligned while inserting the screws.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BristolYachts/files/Portlights/ (website no longer available)
The following comments are from our installation on a Bristol 35.5c built in 1989.
Yes, the threaded rod idea was absolutely a Godsend to get the three pieces lined up with goop!
- We applied 3M blue masking tape in a double layer around the fixed ports, two layers on the hull and two layers on the edge of the frames. This helped reduces scratches to the hull and frames when prying and cutting the frames loose from the hull. We used short putty knives, long heavy duty razor blades, very gently so as not to bend the frames or scratch the frames or hull. Once the old caulk is cut all the way around, then the frames remove easily.
- While the port frames and glass were off we thoroughly cleaned the exterior surface so there would be a good bond. We did not prime anything. We also caulked the space between the hull and hull liner to prevent any possible leak from getting inside that area.
- First we did a “dry fit” without any caulk, to be sure the glass covered the caulk area of the frames, and that the rods would work, etc. We found that using two rods on the bottom and two along the top worked better for us. The heavy glass tried to slip and was hard to control without the weight being partially supported by the two bottom rods as we maneuvered it in to place.
- During the “dry fit” we scored the protective paper all around, inside and outside, using the inner edge of the frame as the guide. This was about ¼” in from the edge of the glass. A very light touch with a sharp new razor knife.
- We then disassembled the frames and glass and peeled that outer protective ~1/4” wide section off the glass for the bonded area. The inner large area of protective paper on both sides of the glass kept the caulk off the visible surface of the glass. We also carefully taped the exterior of the frames and surrounding area to be sure the extra goop only flowed onto tape or protective paper to make the cleanup easier.
- We used 3M4200UV for the sealant. After caulking and removing the excess caulk, we removed the inner protective paper, inside and outside the hull. We used tweezers in one corner where the blue tape was slightly caught and was visible. The tape came out easily with a little fidgeting with tweezers and a bent needle.
- We had a local glass shop order the acrylic – they were able to find a half piece to reduce the total cost. The shop also cut the new acrylic to exactly the size of the old panes we removed. It has very close tolerances to seal to the frame. I noticed on the paperwork that the glass company ordered 5/8” acrylic – but the actual dimension was about 9/16” thickness. We could not EXACTLY match the thickness, but this worked well for us with no leaks to date. Lexan is stronger but less UV resistant than acrylic. Acrylic is often used for smaller portlights, whereas Lexan is preferred because of its strength for larger areas like hatches.
10/12/2012 update: If I were to do this again, I would strongly consider using butyl tape instead of 3M4200UV. See the write-up at: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=2
----------------------------------------------------Alyssa Portlight replacement:
For the replacement port-lights I used lightly tinted Lexan, but everyone has there own favorite material - the argument over Plexiglasor Lexan can go on for days. You will need to take one of each size of your port-lights out for a sample to cut from - either make a paper tracing of it or just take it with you to the plastics guy (the larger windows are typically a thinner material than the small ones - do not try to change the thickness, the frames are designed for exactly the size and thickness window that's in them - thicker or thinner will leak. Also, take one screw out of one of your port lights, go to a real hardware store (Ace is good)and get about a 2 foot section of all-thread rod the same thread as the screw - cut the all-thread into two pieces. Also pick up a box of surgical gloves - cheap ones, you will need them or you will be constantly cleaning caulking off of your hands throughout the process. You will need 2 or 3 large tubes of caulking. Use 3M 4200 or Boat LifeLifeCaulk - no silicon or 5200 – silicon will turn black and peel off in the southern climes and 5200 is forever. 5200 is forever and silicon-based caulking doesn't adhere as well and will blacken in the sun and air pollution particularly in the Southern climes. You will need a paint scraper that holds a single edge razor blade. Have lots of news paper handy. Remove your cushions below the ports you are going to remove and cover the area with multiple layers of newspaper (this way you can continually remove the top layer to expose a clean work surface). Now you are ready to work. The port lights are easy to remove, take out all the screws (if any are stripped or broken you can get stainless steel replacements at any real hardware store) and carefully remove the inner trim ring and gently pry out the pane - you may have to use a putty knife to get the trim ring off by working your way around the edges. Be careful to not bend the trim ring. Remove all of the caulking you can from the inside, then go on deck and gently remove the outer ring by working your way around the edge with the putty knife. Remove all of the main salon port lights on one side at a time - that is about as much as you can get done in one day. Clean all the old caulking from the fiberglass and the frames (the razor blade/paint scraper and an old screwdriver work best). Before you start the re-installation, liberally caulk the gap between the cabin side and the fiberglass liner. Screw the all-thread rods into the outer frame diagonally (one rod upper left, the other lower right). Pre-fit the panes into the frames, making sure they fit inside the inner portion of the frame - if not, they will keep you from seating the inner and outer rings against each other and that is what makes the watertight seal. Then, with the pane caulked into the outer frame and caulking on the outer edge of the frame, fit the outer frame into place using the two threaded rods as handles pull it up snugly against the cabin trunk. Be sure you have caulking completely filling the gaps between the frame and the cabin liner. Then slide the inner frame down the threaded rods until it contacts the cabin liner. Now you can easily put the screws in - no mess, no fuss. Only screw them in lightly, let the caulking dry for about 24 hours then snug the screws down - this will give you a better seal. Do not use a chemical cleaner to clean up the caulking from the fiberglass or the Lexan - it will damage it, use only a plastic scraper (you can get a special V-shaped plastic "caulking scraper" from BoatUS or West Marine) and maybe finish it off with Goo Gone. You can do this process in some other way, but if you cut corners you will only cost yourself time and messy grief.
Good luck! If you have additional comments to add to these two documents, please post them to the Bristol Google groups.
Marilyn “Adena” Bristol 35.5c