35.5 Rudder & Feathering Prop

[dave nederhood]

Good morning, all:

Weather is warming up here in New England and feeling like Spring.

Bought a Variprop feathering prop, removed my old 3-blade and discovered there was a question I did not ask....can I install the new feathering 4-blade without dropping my rudder?!!! ugh...anyway, boat's on the hard until May 14, and it looks pretty straightforward of a process, just curious if anyone knows approximate weight of a 35.5 rudder? And have dropped their rudder, any words of wisdom? Will start digging the hole this week. thnks dave n guilford, ct

[Marilyn Kinsey]

Oh my!   We were able to install the 4 blade Variprop15x12 RH without dropping the rudder.  It was very tight...but did get it on without the zinc installed, and the 4 blades turned to maximum pitch.  After the prop is on the shart, then put the zinc back on the aft end.  

With our prop mounted, there is less than 1", about 1/2" between the hull stern tube and the forward end of the Variprop hub.   

You may have a different shaft length...may be easier to slightly shorten the prop shaft?... see photo 2951. 

If you are stuck, is the aperture the same shape and dimensions?  It may be easier to sand down some built up bottom paint, but ours fit without touching the rudder, by a gnat's hair...with the rudder pushed all the way to one side...can't recall if that was to port or starboard...

Marilyn

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[dave nederhood]

Thnks for your help & pictures...No zinc on my prop and have the rudder completely over to starboard, I might try port...

I think i have as much clearance between the end of my shaft & front of rudder as you, but will re-check.

I will turn the blades to maximum pitch, that may be enof....as you note it is VERY tight.

thnks again and will keep all posted.

dave 

[dave nederhood]

Marilyn:

Picture below is with rudder amidships, so I 3 inches clearance from end of shaft to rudder as one of your pictures showed...But the Variprop is 4.5 inches long (w/o zinc). And the prop is bulbous so when I turn the rudder fully to starboard I still cant squeeze the prop into place.. Will try again in a few days. Also emailing Geoff and ask them to come and install it!

thnks again.

dave 

[Jeff B]

you may be able to gain some space if you can remove the rudder stop. that might allow you to put the rudder hard over to one side or the other. not sure, never done that myself.

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[mplight (null)]

Not to highjack the thread, but has anyone removed the rudder from 35.5, 38.8, 41.1 or 45.5 (they all seem to be of same design)

We have play at the pintle (1/8-1/4”) on lower section-

We are pretty sure it’ll get us thru the season, but will drop it the fall and replace bushing or whatever else is required.

We’ve been told that we may have to grind the horizontal section of a keg to reveal u shaped brace.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Marc & Molly

S/V Dreamer B38.8 #6

On Apr 5, 2021, at 6:40 PM, dave nederhood <dneder...@gmail.com> wrote:

Marilyn:

Picture below is with rudder amidships, so I 3 inches clearance from end of shaft to rudder as one of your pictures showed...But the Variprop is 4.5 inches long (w/o zinc). And the prop is bulbous so when I turn the rudder fully to starboard I still cant squeeze the prop into place.. Will try again in a few days. Also emailing Geoff and ask them to come and install it!

thnks again.

dave 

<Rudder and Propeller Jan2021.jpg>

<Shaft to rudder clearance apr21.jfif>

On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 4:24:11 PM UTC-4 dave nederhood wrote:

Thnks for your help & pictures...No zinc on my prop and have the rudder completely over to starboard, I might try port...

I think i have as much clearance between the end of my shaft & front of rudder as you, but will re-check.

I will turn the blades to maximum pitch, that may be enof....as you note it is VERY tight.

thnks again and will keep all posted.

dave 

On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 3:13:47 PM UTC-4 glccs...@yahoo.com wrote:

Oh my!   We were able to install the 4 blade Variprop15x12 RH without dropping the rudder.  It was very tight...but did get it on without the zinc installed, and the 4 blades turned to maximum pitch.  After the prop is on the shart, then put the zinc back on the aft end.  

With our prop mounted, there is less than 1", about 1/2" between the hull stern tube and the forward end of the Variprop hub.   

You may have a different shaft length...may be easier to slightly shorten the prop shaft?... see photo 2951. 

If you are stuck, is the aperture the same shape and dimensions?  It may be easier to sand down some built up bottom paint, but ours fit without touching the rudder, by a gnat's hair...with the rudder pushed all the way to one side...can't recall if that was to port or starboard...

Marilyn

On Monday, April 5, 2021, 12:23:00 PM EDT, dave nederhood <dneder...@gmail.com> wrote:

Good morning, all:

Weather is warming up here in New England and feeling like Spring.

Bought a Variprop feathering prop, removed my old 3-blade and discovered there was a question I did not ask....can I install the new feathering 4-blade without dropping my rudder?!!! ugh...anyway, boat's on the hard until May 14, and it looks pretty straightforward of a process, just curious if anyone knows approximate weight of a 35.5 rudder? And have dropped their rudder, any words of wisdom? Will start digging the hole this week. thnks dave n guilford, ct

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<Shaft to rudder clearance apr21.jfif>

<Rudder and Propeller Jan2021.jpg>

[dave nederhood]

Marc & Molly:

High jack away! As I am also curious about what I might be getting into with dropping the rudder...From the "U tube University of Book Care" appears corroded bolts/nuts, etc, are the worst of the disassembly, but replacement parts, as needed, have me concerned regarding availability and timing...i have about 5.5 wks to complete whatever the job ends up being.  The boat yard is swamped with work, so no help there, it will be me and which friend(s) i can cajol into helping. 

And since we are hijacking....best method to determine integrity of rudder? drill holes in bottom & see if liquid runs out? Or....??

thnks

dave 

[mplight (null)]

Dave,

I would be happy to help with any assistance I can offer- I’m in Tiverton- more I see, more I learn. If you need any help, let me know-

BTW, I’ve been vaccinated- and have mask, will travel- more or less locally!

Marc

On Apr 5, 2021, at 9:30 PM, dave nederhood <dneder...@gmail.com> wrote:

Marc & Molly:

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[david nederhood]

Jeff,

Good idea, as I think I only need an inch or so...But where is the rudder stop? up by the quadrant? 

thnks

dave 

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[Michelle Tang]

Is there another way to get more clearance? Would disconnecting the shaft and moving it inward by an inch be easier than dropping the rudder?

Michelle

Cha Ching

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[stockeryacht]

How in the heck do I opt out of this email nitemare??? 

Mike Stocker 

Hilaria Enterprises, LLC

On Apr 5, 2021, at 22:17, 'Michelle Tang' via Bristol Yacht owners <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com> wrote:



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[William C. Wohlforth]

Love getting these emails. Fascinating!  Keep 'em coming.

Bill, B 35.5 c Hotspur.

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[markg...@gmail.com]

I  have removed my Maxprop a few times from my 455, and pulled the shaft twice. I was able to do so by swinging the rudder hard over with nothing else required. From your picture I would think you can do the same – the rudder design looks identical.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Mark Condon,

S/V Tonic

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[Jeff B]

yes

[dave nederhood]

Thanks for the ideas. 

Michelle, I will go inside and see if I can release the shaft from the coupling to gain an inch.

Marc, you are correct, the shaft once free could be pulled by the rudder. Will look to see if just disconnecting coupling will give me the space I need vs removing shaft entirely.

Tiverton Marc, standby...I am fully vaccinated to & 2 wks out from last shot...appreciate the offer and may take you up on it depending upon how this all works out.

Mike, cant help you to figure out how to opt out....do you have an IT friend?

thnks all

dave 

[Jim Lamb]

FYI. When I went from a small fixed prop to a larger Variprop, I increased the size of the aperture. It was not difficult and the rudder does as well as ever. I have a photo of the old configuration. I will photograph the new when I take the boat out to paint the bottom. 

Jim 

On Apr 6, 2021, at 5:52 PM, dave nederhood <dneder...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for the ideas. 

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[Marilyn Kinsey]

I dug out my 2004 Maintenance record for installing the Variprop, 4 blade.  We removed our stainless steel shaft and had it shortened 1", added a new keyway for 5/16" bronze, refaced the coupling and verified a straight runout at our local machine shop.  The Variprop guidelines indicated the shaft can exit a maximum of 4 7/8" from the cutlass bearing - and still allow the new prop to be installed.

We had considered both the 15" or the 15.5" 4 blade, but even the 15" is a tight minimum clearance when spinning in the aperture.  We did not want to change the fiberglass and structural design of the aperture, so ordered the 15" and knew from our cardboard mock up that the shaft would need to be shortened 3/4" to 1".   I believe we had the first 4 blade model shipped to North America.  Michael Adler was the Vari-prop USA representative at that time.

Removing the shaft is not difficult.  A good machine shop should be able to make the adjustments. 

Marilyn  Bristol 35.5c "Adena"

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bristol-yacht-owners/F1019A8C-9885-44E7-8707-C8E962AAA66A%40gmail.com

.

[dave nederhood]

Good evening all;

Latest update. Was able to spend about an hour on the boat tonite. Disconnected (pic #2) the auto-pilot hydraulic arm from the edson steering arm, hoping the hydraulics were limiting the rudder travel.  No dice...rudder travel still limited, assuming by rudder stops. Difficult to see quadrant so need to take more of the supporting structure apart to see and identify rudder stops. More this weekend, when I can spend more time. thnks Dave 

[dave nederhood]

Made it to the boat today and here's my current status on mounting new feathering Vari-prop:

 1. Began loosening steering cable from my edson radial steering system (picture of quadrant-est 20-21 inch diameter - autopilot arm removed) in an attempt to increase range of rudder, but without effect. Assuming rudder stops (as yet unidentified) are preventing further movement.  Estimate that I would need to drop the rudder about > 23 inches to have the rudder shaft clear the hull. Have dug a hole about 20 inches deep, 9 inches wide. Thinking I can loop a line under the rudder and up to cockpit winches to control drop.

2. Began examining shaft coupling area (picture attached) as an option instead of dropping rudder. Heard from 35.5 owner that they removed shaft, shortened it by 1 inch and re-installed w/ new prop.  Corrosion looks (significant?) around the coupling so would removal of shaft solve 2 issues, prop installation and required maintenance on coupling, shaft, stuffing box?

Questions: 

  1. How much does the 35.5 rudder weigh? Issues in dropping my rudder that arent obvious? 

  2. What is the drive shaft made out of? 

Have 4 wkends left before scheduled splash. Interested in folks thoughts/ideas/experience/suggestions.

thnks

Dave 

dave 

[mhk630]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the photos help to identify the issues.  The photo of the shaft looks like you are right on, to address any/all shaft issues.  Ours is a 1" diameter, stainless steel (not sure which grade - our machine shop does lots of  marine shafts and selected the proper metal).  Your boat may have a different diameter, coupling etc.  The boat had a dripless PYI shaft seal when we bought her.   From prior boat experience, we really appreciate a dry bilge.  If there is even a tablespoon of water, I know there is a problem which needs my immediate attention.  The dripless seal reduces corrosion in hard to access locations.  Good to replace the cutlass bearing while you have the shaft out.    

And a good opportunity to check the installation, cables, lubricate the rudder bearings and controls etc.  We have not dropped our rudder, so I cannot offer any experience.  Good luck!

Marilyn "Adena" Bristol 35.5c

[mhk630]

I have attached some files regarding the rudder shaft, which might be helpful if you or others decide to lower the rudder - a good time to replace the hose at the top.  

After ~25 years we replaced our stiff and cracked rudder shaft hose, without lowering the rudder.

Lots of other photos and details about the shoe, water drips etc...the fun never ends...

Marilyn "Adena"

[mplight (null)]

Dave, if the 35.5 rudder is similar to the 38.8 (I believe it is), the bottom of rudder sits on a pintel, Ive been told that there is a metal frame(?) where the skew attaches to rudder and bolted in, that the pintel is attached to and glassed over, it was explained that this this need to be ground away- in the images below you can see where the pintel is located just below the cutaway 

On Apr 11, 2021, at 4:34 PM, dave nederhood <dneder...@gmail.com> wrote:

Made it to the boat today and here's my current status on mounting new feathering Vari-prop:

 1. Began loosening steering cable from my edson radial steering system (picture of quadrant-est 20-21 inch diameter - autopilot arm removed) in an attempt to increase range of rudder, but without effect. Assuming rudder stops (as yet unidentified) are preventing further movement.  Estimate that I would need to drop the rudder about > 23 inches to have the rudder shaft clear the hull. Have dug a hole about 20 inches deep, 9 inches wide. Thinking I can loop a line under the rudder and up to cockpit winches to control drop.

2. Began examining shaft coupling area (picture attached) as an option instead of dropping rudder. Heard from 35.5 owner that they removed shaft, shortened it by 1 inch and re-installed w/ new prop.  Corrosion looks (significant?) around the coupling so would removal of shaft solve 2 issues, prop installation and required maintenance on coupling, shaft, stuffing box?

Questions: 

  1. How much does the 35.5 rudder weigh? Issues in dropping my rudder that arent obvious? 

  2. What is the drive shaft made out of? 

Have 4 wkends left before scheduled splash. Interested in folks thoughts/ideas/experience/suggestions.

thnks

Dave 

dave 

<Coupling stuffing box Apr2021.jfif>

<Radial steering quadrant Apr2021.jpg>

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<Radial steering quadrant Apr2021.jpg>

<Coupling stuffing box Apr2021.jfif>

[dave nederhood]

Marilyn, good evening:

Great pictures!  thank you, thank you for all of this valuable info...now I wouldnt want all of your valuable experience to go to waste, so what are you doing next wkend?!  Cant imagine what I will find given my boat is circa 1978, 5 yrs older than yours. Will take pictures and keep all posted as to progress. You've inspired me to move ahead w/ rudder drop for potentially long overdue maintenance.

thnks

dave 

guilford, ct

[dave nederhood]

MPlight;

That is definitely my anchor
It is difficult to see in this picture, but you can see the heads of 2 of 4 screws (covered with multiple layers of bottom paint), above and forward of the pintle. Can also see the upper line of the seam of the leading edge of the metal frame you refer to...thanks, very helpful...stay tuned. dave 

[Eric Berger]

Do you have rudder stops? That limits the swing to keep the rudder from hitting the prop. If you do, it might be easier to remove one. Not sure if it will help give clearance. I have rudder stops on my B32 that I found recently were not that well attached. knocked one off working on the shaft seal, standing on my head.

-Eric

S/V Delta-T

[Eric Berger]

I guess I should have read all the post, Jeff already suggested the rudder stops. But once you get everything disconnected above the seal, she should swing all the way over and it might give clearance.

-Eric

S/V delta-T

[Eric Berger]

Is there a shaft to prop size adapter? If there is, remove it, that might give you what you need.

-Eric

S/V delta-T

[dave nederhood]

Good morning:

At the boat yesterday for a few hours. 

Update: found the rudder stops (see pic - rudder post foregrnd & stop in backgrnd) (just 2x8 untreated wood bolted to frame around radial drive), removed starboard stop, but additional movement not enof to allow me to slide on feathering prop.

Decision: I am dropping the rudder - I began the disassembly, removed both rudder stops, Edson wire cable around radial drive, removed all four bolts that held 2 halves of drive together. Dug 26" deep hole for rudder drop. out of time. 

Next steps: separate drive halves (see pic) so I can see rudder post stuffing box; remove screws at rudder arm that attach rudder to skeg; replace steering wire/chain (age unknown but at least 6 yrs old).

stay tuned.

[Blair, Scott/TRA]

Is the aperture cut entirely out of the skeg, and not the rudder, such that the rudder will clear the prop when dropping it? On my 32, I had to remove the prop and scooch the engine forward to get the shaft out of the way in order to drop the rudder.

 

In any case, unmounting the engine and moving it forward a couple inches might be an alternative.

 

-Scott

 

From: bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of dave nederhood
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 9:16 AM
To: Bristol Yacht owners <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com>

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: 35.5 Rudder & Feathering Prop

 

Good morning:

At the boat yesterday for a few hours. 

Update: found the rudder stops (see pic - rudder post foregrnd & stop in backgrnd) (just 2x8 untreated wood bolted to frame around radial drive), removed starboard stop, but additional movement not enof to allow me to slide on feathering prop.

Decision: I am dropping the rudder - I began the disassembly, removed both rudder stops, Edson wire cable around radial drive, removed all four bolts that held 2 halves of drive together. Dug 26" deep hole for rudder drop. out of time. 

Next steps: separate drive halves (see pic) so I can see rudder post stuffing box; remove screws at rudder arm that attach rudder to skeg; replace steering wire/chain (age unknown but at least 6 yrs old).

stay tuned.

On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 6:07:46 PM UTC-4 e1ber...@gmail.com wrote:

Is there a shaft to prop size adapter? If there is, remove it, that might give you what you need.

 

-Eric

S/V delta-T

 

On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 5:58:58 PM UTC-4 Eric Berger wrote:

I guess I should have read all the post, Jeff already suggested the rudder stops. But once you get everything disconnected above the seal, she should swing all the way over and it might give clearance.

 

-Eric

S/V delta-T

On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 6:28:42 PM UTC-4 skiie...@gmail.com wrote:

you may be able to gain some space if you can remove the rudder stop. that might allow you to put the rudder hard over to one side or the other. not sure, never done that myself.

 

On Mon, Apr 5, 2021, 11:57 AM dave nederhood <dneder...@gmail.com> wrote:

Good morning, all:

Weather is warming up here in New England and feeling like Spring.

Bought a Variprop feathering prop, removed my old 3-blade and discovered there was a question I did not ask....can I install the new feathering 4-blade without dropping my rudder?!!! ugh...anyway, boat's on the hard until May 14, and it looks pretty straightforward of a process, just curious if anyone knows approximate weight of a 35.5 rudder? And have dropped their rudder, any words of wisdom? Will start digging the hole this week. thnks dave n guilford, ct

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[mpl...@aim.com]

Dave,

Please provide pics (if you can hold camera and rudder at the same time ;)  we will have to drop our rudder  in the fall, and would be great to have reference images.

good luck!

Marc & Molly 

SV Dreamer B38.8

-----Original Message-----
From: dave nederhood <dneder...@gmail.com>
To: Bristol Yacht owners <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com>

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[Gerald Jennings]

Please delete me from this list

Get Outlook for iOS

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From: mplight via Bristol Yacht owners <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 8:45:13 AM
To: dneder...@gmail.com <dneder...@gmail.com>; bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com>

Subject: Re: 35.5 Rudder & Feathering Prop

 

[EXTERNAL SENDER]

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[peter whitman]

Me too 

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[Jay Wurts]

I have had a Bristol 38.8 since 1991. I am surprised you are willing to drop the rudder just to get the benefits of a feathering prop.

Have you thought about how much harder prop and shaft maintenance will be since you will have to remove the rudder each time?

I once had a  blade fall off a CD Design feathering prop in the channel coming out of Cuttyhunk. I was able to remove and replace the prop in the water without hauling the boat. 

I once had a shaft pull out of the engine coupling in St. Lucia which had no haul out faciltites. I could not sail to another island because of ropes I had to use to secure the shaft were blocking the rudder. Fortunately I managed to replace the shaft and coupling without hauling the boat!

The prop you bought requires bearing maintenance. I hope you can do that without dropping the rudder.

Over the years I have had to replace worn out cutless bearings three separate times. I am very glad I did not have to drop the rudder each time.

If you are determined to have a feathering prop, I would seriously consider shaving the rudder to enlarge the aperture instead of dropping the rudder. A Bristol rudder is solid glass around a bronze shaft that has  bronze rods extending aft from the shaft. So I don’t think it would be that hard to enlarge the aperture a little.

Jay Wurts

New Wave

Marion, MA

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<Radial drive top view Apr21.jpg><Radial drive Rudder Stop  Apr21.jpg><Radial drive top view Apr21.jpg>

[david nederhood]

Jay, 

Didn’t plan on having to drop my rudder when I bought the Variprop, but found out after the fact...

I have been trying to rationalize dropping the rudder by doing preventive maintenance including rudder shaft stuffing box replacement, replace Edson chain/wire system (altho this doesn’t require the rudder drop). 

I have considered shaving the rudder, but was uncertain of its construction, so your note below helps immensely. I may now go that route as I only need about 1 inch more clearance.
Thnks

Dave 

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bristol-yacht-owners/A18AACA4-F624-48E3-B5D0-ED7D39A51A97%40jwurts.com

.

[mplight (null)]

We have a 3 blade Max prop on our 38.8

We have had to replace prop shaft and cutlass bearing done without dropping rudder-

Of course I believe Dave’s is a four blade, so I can’t determine what that means down the road.

But we can grease our prop with no issues.

We are watching carefully as we will have to drop our runner next fall due to a worn out pintle on the skeg.

Our B38.8 is 1982. Hull #6

Marc & Molly

SV DREAMER

On Apr 27, 2021, at 3:11 PM, Jay Wurts <j...@jwurts.com> wrote:

 I have had a Bristol 38.8 since 1991. I am surprised you are willing to drop the rudder just to get the benefits of a feathering prop.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bristol-yacht-owners/A18AACA4-F624-48E3-B5D0-ED7D39A51A97%40jwurts.com.

[dave nederhood]

Peter & Gerald,  I dont know how to delete you...maybe mark this as spam?

Jay and all:

Variprop body end to end  is 4.5 inches, not dealing with blade dimensions yet.  Distance between end of drive shaft and front of rudder is 3 inches (pic). I have slowly begun sanding the rounded (2.25 inches thick - pic) leading edge of my rudder attempting to taper as i go. Attached pictures show my starting point.

More to follow.

[maullf...@myfairpoint.net]

Dave, What prevents you from shortening the propeller shaft? That would be the obvious long term solution to this clearance problem. You would not need to drop the rudder or seek an additional inch clearance by nibbling away at the front end of the rudder. What if you just get ¾” before you hit the rudder stock? Then you are going to have to shorten the propeller shaft anyhow. Jack

 

From: bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of dave nederhood

Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 8:42 PM
To: Bristol Yacht owners <bristol-ya...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: 35.5 Rudder & Feathering Prop

Peter & Gerald,  I dont know how to delete you...maybe mark this as spam?

Jay and all:

Variprop body end to end  is 4.5 inches, not dealing with blade dimensions yet.  Distance between end of drive shaft and front of rudder is 3 inches (pic). I have slowly begun sanding the rounded (2.25 inches thick - pic) leading edge of my rudder attempting to taper as i go. Attached pictures show my starting point.

More to follow.

Me too 

 

[EXTERNAL SENDER]

On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 6:07:46 PM UTC-4 e1ber...@gmail.com wrote:

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[Marilyn Kinsey]

Good morning Dave.  

Attached is an excellent article from a Bristol owner, working on his rudder.  The rudder shaft is clearly seen.

Think again, about shortening the propeller shaft, to also address the issues of cleaning, greasing, replacing the zinc etc. 

Marilyn

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[dave nederhood]

Good morning,

Well, I have decided this morning to re-install my old fixed-3blade prop and put off the Variprop install until next Spring when I will be retired & have the time to do this - whether it be dropping my rudder or shortening the drive shaft. Our sailing season is short enough here in New England w/o delaying my launch well beyond 14May21. Appreciate everyone's input, thoughts, experience, ideas and will restart next April. Now just going to re-stuff stuffing box, replace Edson steering chain/wire, and go back to earlier projects - re-coating bow fresh water tank and re-insulate ice box. Many thanks

dave 

guilford, CT

[Matthew Stanton]

Does anyone know what the correct diameter line for a Bristol 41.1 center cockpit main halyard is?

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[mhk630]

There is no one correct diameter line. It depends upon the type of line which you choose, the expected wind loads, 12 month or short summer sun exposure, the width of the sheave, rope clutch holding diameter, etc...

e.g.,  some years ago, 2009, my halyards were old and due for replacement.  A raceboat friend did not want a new halyard he had purchased for a 41' raceboat.  So I got a Yale Crystalyne 3/8" x 145 feet 11,500 lb rating at a very good price for my Bristol 35.5c.   The smaller diameter and slick surface, than the typical cruising halyard, reduces the running friction, but holds the line in the rope clutch.  

Fair winds, Marilyn

[david nederhood]

Uncertain as I have a 35.5 and checked to see your main has almost 100 sq ft more sail than mine. Was reading Brian Toss's "Rigger's Apprentice" and he really likes New England Rope's Sta-Set X for halyards...very little stretch & significantly less expensive than the exotics (eg Dyneema/Spectra). So I have replaced all my halyards with this rope and I think using 1/2 inch for my main halyard. I think i am a bit over-sized. I can double check tomorrow.  

thnks

dave 

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bristol-yacht-owners/c6c44d0e-f5c5-4ef9-aba0-2d843a5d188fn%40googlegroups.com

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[david nederhood]

Just measured my halyards (on my 35.5) and found the following; main halyard is 7/16" Sta-Set X, same for both port & starboard foresail halyards. Storm jib (est 90sq ft) halyard is 5/16" Sta-set X...didnt measure my topping lift. 

hope this helps.

dave 

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bristol-yacht-owners/156943868.911646.1621819912130%40mail.yahoo.com

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