Tounlock your safe using a paperclip, flatten it and insert it through the keyhole. To anchor and spin the lock, use an additional paper clip or a little screwdriver below the first one. Carefully pick and locate the latching mechanism with the first paper clip. Burglary safes are not easy to crack open.
Rotate the file clockwise to flip the lock and unlock your safe after you detect the clicking sounds. This approach, like the paper clip technique, will take considerable duration and patience to complete.
A solenoid is found in most electrical safes, notably those meant to store guns. A solenoid is a substance that regulates the latching mechanism of a safe. A powerful rare earth magnet, such as a Neodymium magnet, can be used to reset this substance. These sorts of magnets may usually be found at a hardware shop or on the internet.
Rare earth magnets are extremely strong and ought to be handled with caution. If you have a pacemaker, you must never carry it near electrical gadgets or kitchenware, and you must not handle one if you have one. Also, resist inserting your finger between the magnet and the safe, since this will almost certainly result in injury.
You may also try continuously pounding the locking mechanism to unlock the safe. The anchor keeping the latching bar in place may weaken and disengage as a result of this. This, like the previous way, has the potential to permanently harm your stack-on safe.
Getting in touch with a qualified locksmith is probably the most effective technique to unlock a safe without a key. If you have attempted and failed to unlock a safe without a key, kindly contact a professional locksmith specialist. You may profit from the technical skills of experienced locksmith specialists since they are adaptable in managing various types and models of locked safes.
The procedures indicated above, such as picking and bouncing, will not be used by a professional locksmith. A professional locksmith will utilize a far more successful alternative to open the safe if they have years of knowledge and the proper advanced instruments. A locksmith is more inclined to utilize a technique that you have never seen before. A new safe alternative that fits your lock safe may be delivered by the locksmith, and in certain situations, a new key may be produced by an accurate key-cutting service. If your lock and key are antiquated and prone to breaking, a new key for your safe might be the best alternative.
Safes, like any other device, are prone to malfunctioning, from a fault either at your end or that of the manufacturer. That is why you need to make sure you get yours from the best safes and vaults company in the industry. They have a variety you can choose from and anytime you encounter difficulties you can simply reach out to us. We are also renowned to be able to offer safe solutions for different aspects of your life such as business, that are fireproof and watertight so that your valuables are always secured.
If you purchased your safe at low cost online or from a large chain retail outlet, then it is likely to be this type of electronic safe and will have a lock similar to the one in the image above. Your safe will have come with a separate key which can be used to open the safe if the electronic lock fails or the batteries run down. Override keys should not be stored inside the safe.
These higher end locks have the batteries concealed within the keypads with access to the battery even if the safe is locked (often from below, or the keypad will tilt forward to reveal the batteries). If the battery is running low on a safe with this type of lock, you will get a warning. This maybe beeps when you input your code or, if you have a display panel, it may show a low battery warning similar to that you would see on a mobile phone.
Locks like the one in the image above have an external emergency battery connection point on the keypad. The actual battery housing is inside the safe on the back of the door and inaccessible from the outside when the safe is locked.
Safes can become stuck shut for a variety of reasons, not just the batteries. Whatever the issue preventing you from opening your safe, our engineers will quickly diagnose the problem and determine the options for opening it.
It is important to try this step first, even if your keypad beeps and lights up as normal. There may be enough power in the batteries to operate the keypad, but not enough to completely retract the boltwork.
Many safes go into penalty lockout mode if too many wrong codes are entered. Depending on the type of keypad, it typically emits a rapid series of beeps. If this happens, wait 10 to 20 minutes, and try again.
Steve,
If it has a mechanical lock (No buttons or keypad but has a mechanical 100 number dial) on it turn the dial five complete rotations in either direction. Next, turn the dial counterclockwise (left) three revolutions and stop with the first number comes to the index mark on the fourth rotation.
Turn the dial clockwise (right) passing the second number twice and stop when it comes to the index mark on the third revolution.
Turn the dial counterclockwise (left) passing the third number once and stop when it comes to the index mark on the second revolution.
Now turn the dial clockwise (right) and the dial should come to a dead stop.
you should then be able to turn the handle of your safe and open your door.
I suggest contacting the manufacturer of your safe to see if there is a manufacturer approved troubleshooting document available or if your safe is still under warranty.
It may be that there is debris in your lock and could be as simple as vacuuming the keyway out to clean out debris. If there is a lock failure, you will need to locate a reputable safe technician in your area.
Safe technicians can be found searched for at , , or
Richard,
I suggest contacting a local reputable safe technician in your area to help you with your problem.
You can do so by checking or and using their search tools, should be able to find someone near you able to help.
Hi,
I need to change the batteries of our safe, but I cannot remove them by opening the keypad. Seems they need to be replaced from inside the door.It is a Fier Fyter from Costco. Should I call a technician or is there an easier solution?
Thanks for your help!
Elsa
Elsa,
I would suggest contacting COSTCO and see if there is a warranty or if they have the contact information for the manufacturer. You may also want to go to or and using their search tools, should be able to find someone near you able to help.
I called stack on customer service and they walked me through the problem. The black piece on the motherboard was loose which causes only one Or two buttons to work. They sent me all new parts for free and works perfect. I would just call them and they will help u out.
Thanks alot. I lef it alone awhile after messing with the wires and it wasnt doing anything and went back about an hour later now its fine. I guess it was a loose connection and it needed time to reset lol. Glad it also came with keys.
Also, there is a motherboard inside the safe so u would have to open the safe to even get to the motherboard. Check all the connections and pull out the ribbon from the key pad from the circuit board and then plug it back in. Usually comes loose
Call the company is the best option you have and have then figure it out. Always try the battery and unplug what u can and reset it. If not call the company and they could either send somebody to help u out or even send u new parts to get in the safe
I have a Patriot safe that I bought from a guy that buys Estate sales. He did not have the keys nor the numbers for the key pad.so I got it for a great price. Well after getting it home I find out Patriot Safes are out of buisness now. What do I do?
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I'm going to include a medium-detailed writeup, in case someone needs to use it as reference. This is all synthesized from various sources around the internet, but I figured it'd be nice to have it all in one place.
Basic Idea: When the water level falls, it closes Float Switch 1 which sends voltage across the relay. That closes the relay, allowing power to reach the pump, filling your tank with water. When the water level rises again, the switch opens and the power to the pump is cut.
Float Switches: I use two float switches for redundancy, one placed at a higher level than the other. They could both be at the same level, it doesn't really matter. The switches are wired in series, so if just one of them is open, the pump won't turn on. I sourced the float switches from amazon at about $4/switch.
The Relay: The relay is used to control power delivery to the the pump. I can't just use a switch, as the pump will draw (significantly) more current than the switches are rated for, which is very dangerous. _design_and_operation is a good place to find more information about how relays work. I used a 12V automotive relay, a little under $5 on amazon.
Power Source: I used a standard 12V power supply. There are a lot of options, I chose one that included an adapter to connect it to the rest of my circuit, which ended up being very useful. $7 on amazon.
how would you incorporate another failsafe for the main triggered float switch if it fails. (like have another float lower and is a fail safe if the higher one sticks?) that was always my problem. not overflow, but not triggering on.
During this process, I decided to add a JST-XH 4 pin connector so that I could unplug the power supply/relay from the rest of the system. I also added some stylish purple braided sleeving to neaten up the wires coming from the float switches
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