Hello 'Andrey,
Saturday, October 16, 2021, 10:17:31 AM, you wrote:
Over the last couple of days i noticed that water from the group head turned milky white while from the hot water spout is transparent.
Milky white and then clearing can sometimes be really tiny air bubbles. Put some of the water in a skinny clear container and look carefully from the side, if that's what's happening, the bottom will clear first as the bubbles rise.
-- Ira
On Oct 16, 2021, at 2:00 PM, Ira <laz...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Hello 'Andrey,
Saturday, October 16, 2021, 11:22:32 AM, you wrote:
Thanks, will give that a try. Why would there be bubbles all of the sudden after so many years?
-- Ira
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On Oct 16, 2021, at 10:39 PM, DioKay <dio...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Oct 17, 2021, at 1:05 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I let the clear glass sit and no bubbles - in fact a little white sludge on the bottom. Is water from water dispenser pulled from a different boiler? That water is perfectly clear. Of course I have yet to drain that boiler.
On Oct 18, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
I now notice the brew boiler struggling to stay at the temperature and slight crackling of the machine. Any suggestions or WLL overhaul is required?
Andrey,
I think Yandi is probably right and you should do a resistance measurement on the heating element to confirm.
Extracting the boiler element, for me, required a 120 lb air-driven impact wrench. I think I read earlier that your machine is a BII and many of those element threads were treated with a glue type sealer. Don’t recall the size of the nut. You could probably get it loose with a ½” breaker bar with an iron pipe attached for extra leverage.
Short answer, it’s a serious task. I’ll let others answer the question about descaling.
JP
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On Oct 19, 2021, at 5:42 PM, Jonathan Stroum <jpst...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Andrey,
I think Yandi is probably right and you should do a resistance measurement on the heating element to confirm.
I'd agree - check the resistance of the two pins on the heater(s) to ground. The boiler and the chassis is grounded. Should be infinite resistance, any breakdown of the element will see resistance to ground :(
It'll then start tripping any earth leakage protection on your
household circuit...
Extracting the boiler element, for me, required a 120 lb air-driven impact wrench. I think I read earlier that your machine is a BII and many of those element threads were treated with a glue type sealer. Don’t recall the size of the nut. You could probably get it loose with a ½” breaker bar with an iron pipe attached for extra leverage.
Short answer, it’s a serious task. I’ll let others answer the question about descaling.
The element on mine was a 37mm nut. Weird size. I had a 36mm and a 38mm socket... You access via two holes in the bottom of the chassis - there are two black circular covers that get you straight access to the elements... Nice design. I used a 38mm socket and an 18V impact driver to remove it. Mine is a Minore-II which is the Australian version of a Brewtus-II so it is similar to yours. I needed to impact drive the heater threads ALL the way - the threadseal they use does not let go. I replaced it with the impact tool too but used thick PFTE thread tape. I'd strongly suggest using a breaker bar is a bad idea - the impact driver is much less brutal to boiler. You'd need to put some kind of chain wrench around the boiler and have your neighbourhood 200lb gorilla hold the boiler to prevent you twisting it out of the machine if you use a bar...
Having done the job on my steam boiler, I reckon I can do the brew boiler (when it goes) in maybe 10mins. It's a very simple job. Compared to the heater elements I've replaced in other espresso machines for colleagues, this is a breeze. But you do need an impact tool...
Cheers
/Kevin
On Oct 20, 2021, at 11:03 PM, Kevin Maciunas <kevin.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Oct 21, 2021, at 11:10 AM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
Thanks for the information - are there any pictures? Are you saying you can access heating elements just by turning over the machine? Is removing a brew boiler on option? That would be way easier to ship to WLL and or replace. I have yet to drain it (nut on top of the group head?) but think it’s filled with sludge from cracked heating element.
Hello 'Andrey,
Thursday, October 21, 2021, 8:25:12 AM, you wrote:
Also impact driver or impact wrench? And would a cordless version handle the glue?
You need a big socket and a 1/2" drive impact, the kind you'd use to remove lug nuts to take it off in place. I've not had to do it yet so I don't know what it entails. Like all things with an impact, be gentle replacing it, hand tighten all the way before trying to tighten it. And then another some amount, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn or something like that. Maybe someone who knows will pop up with an answer.
-- Ira
Sorry - living 0.5 planets away from the conversation means a 12 hour delay :)
I bought an 18V ebay sourced cheap 1/2" impact driver. It takes Makita batteries, and claims 520Nm of torque. It might not do that much, but it does a LOT. I bought it for use on my ute (truck). It has not failed to undo anything as yet! It is mildly amusing to see large tools (a 38mm socket on an impact wrench is not svelte!) being used on what is a kitchen appliance...
I should have said I also used a pick tool - like a dental pick -
to chase out the threads in the boiler. The threadseal they used
kind of balled up into little blobs and removing it seemed wise.
The boilers are not strongly attached to anything - there is no requirement that they be so, and hence the use of an impact tool. I used it to put the new element in too - these tools just spin the socket till it becomes 'tight' and then start the impact-er-ation. I'd not usually do the re-assembly with one, but I couldn't see how to manage to hold the boiler while conventionally nipping up the new element.. I did pretty much as Ira says above: run it home till it is fully screwed in and then about a 1/8th of a turn in impact mode. Didn't leak. I kind-of thought it might but it has not leaked a drop.
The only complication I had is the new boiler elements have
flying leads, the old ones just 2 spade connectors. But a 38mm
socket has tons of space so the wires were just smooshed into the
spare space and the thing screwed into place.
There is a small hazard though as anyone who has worked inside an Expobar machine would know: the metal parts are sheared and the edges bite the unwary. The circular holes in the frame with the black plastic covers are a case in point....
Happy repairing!
Cheers
/Kevin
On Oct 23, 2021, at 12:41 PM, Richard <richard...@gmail.com> wrote:
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