Brewtus 2 static relay

[Andrey Sychev]

Seems I need to test performance of static relay so diagnose machine not maintaining temperature. Can someone point me to where this part is in B2? The video on WLL shoes a part that doesn’t exist on my machine. Attached is B4 parts diagram from WLL.
Thanks.

[Andrey Sychev]

These are the display/board and the module underneath it that I do have, is it ine of them?

[Andrey Sychev]

Turns out there is no relay in Gicar based B2 after all. WLL doesn’t sell the probe itself and recommends installing PID kit, so this is what’s I am planning to do now.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 13, 2022, at 4:34 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> These are the display/board and the module underneath it that I do have, is it ine of them?
>
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[Ira]

Hello 'Andrey,

Sunday, March 13, 2022, 1:17:23 PM, you wrote:

Seems I need to test performance of static relay so diagnose machine not maintaining temperature. Can someone point me to where this part is in B2? The video on WLL shoes a part that doesn’t exist on my machine. Attached is B4 parts diagram from WLL.
Thanks.

 

 Here is a link to a ton of info on the Brewtus II.

 

http://www.roasterthing.com/downloads/brewtus.zip

 

Everything I've collected over the past 12 years.  The Brewtus IV stuff won't make much sense.

-- Ira

[Andrey Sychev]

Thanks for sharing. Hopefully installing PID will bring me up to date.

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On Mar 13, 2022, at 6:50 PM, Ira <laz...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Kevin Maciunas]

On 14/3/22 06:47, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
> Seems I need to test performance of static relay so diagnose machine not maintaining temperature. Can someone point me to where this part is in B2? The video on WLL shoes a part that doesn’t exist on my machine. Attached is B4 parts diagram from WLL.
> Thanks.

Hi Andrey.  Sorry I haven't been on-list for a while, had an accident
and am only just back now :(

The "static relay" is actually a "Solid State Relay" or SSR.  It is
located (on my Minore-II, a 240VAC version, so it *might* differ!)
beneath the tank.  You have to remove the metal tank support thingy and
you'll find it attached to the bottom of the machine.  The casing is a
heat sink for it.  If I built it, there would be thermal grease between
the case and the bottom of the SSR, so don't remove it unless you need
to!  It should also have a clip-on transparent plastic cover over it.

My SSR has (as do most) a red LED at the low voltage DC control side. 
When it is lit, the AC connection is made.  BE CAREFUL.  If you have a
mains type meter, you can check by connecting one meter probe to a mains
neutral connection, and the other to the switched side of the SSR.  One
of the two terminals will always be live and the other should come on
when the LED lights.  If there is no LED, you just need to check it
comes on sometime!

SSRs are standard electronic fare.  If you need a new one, get one with
a suitable current rating and it'll be fine.  The ONLY minor wriggle is
some do "zero cross switching" and some don't. Get a zero cross detect
version.  Do NOT buy cheap ones from ebay though - they will be branded
FOTEK (an excellent manufacturer) but tend to be copies that make use of
8 amp triacs rather than 10, 20 or 40 amp ones!

Cheers

/Kevin

[Ira]

Hello 'Andrey,

Sunday, March 13, 2022, 3:43:20 PM, you wrote:

Turns out there is no relay in Gicar based B2 after all. WLL doesn’t sell the probe itself and recommends installing PID kit, so this is what’s I am planning to do now.

 

Putting the PID kit in will correct the problem if it's the temperature probe or controller, it will not correct the problem if it's the Gicar box. The Gicar contains 2 relays which are soldered in, but not hard to replace with the proper tools. If you pop the top off the Gicar box and the relay covers are clear you might be able to see if one of them looks burnt.

-- Ira

[Andrey Sychev]

Thank you Kevin, that makes a lot of sense and i think on B2 it is underneath the steam tank for some reason. Pretty sure on B4 it’s different and relocated under the water tank with the plastic casing and led pointing up. I wonder if this is something included with the PID kit or that somehow works with the existing SSR that is likely malfunctioning according to WLL support and will require replacement anyway.

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[Ira]

Hello 'Andrey,

There was no SSR in a Brewtus II, all the relays are inside the Gicar Box. 

-- Ira

[Ira]

Hello 'Andrey,

Or more correctly, there was no SSR in a Brewtus II, two relays are inside the Gicar Box and one relay is in the temperature controller.. 

-- Ira

[Andrey Sychev]

Thanks Ira, which control box is this?

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 14, 2022, at 1:13 AM, Ira <laz...@gmail.com> wrote:



Hello 'Andrey,

There was no SSR in a Brewtus II, all the relays are inside the Gicar Box. 

-- Ira

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[Pitcher Pitcher]

Boughhttps://www.cafeparts.com/Espresso-Machine-Parts/Expobart mine from Cafe Parts

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[Ira]

Sorry, replace Gicar with AKO and it will all make sense, I thought the controller in mine was a Gicar, but maybe it's an AKO. They are basically the same.

[Pitcher Pitcher]

I have installed both into my machine Brewtus III and they are wired a little differently. Mark wires before pulling off and follow diagrams on the Controller. I upgraded my pressure stat and rewired the entire unit from 12 gauge wire to 10 gauge wire. The Gicar brand is a little more robust in my opinion.

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225-408-9041

[Pitcher Pitcher]

I had a castrophe in my machine. Rebuilt runs like a charm. 

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[Andrey Sychev]

Yes, pretty crispy modules. My controller box looks similar but says AKO on it, yours shows  Gicar.  So the SSR are inside of this control box? I understand I get a different one with WLL PID kit, is that right?

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On Mar 14, 2022, at 4:52 PM, Pitcher Pitcher <ezekie...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Ira]

Hello 'Andrey,

Monday, March 14, 2022, 7:24:42 PM, you wrote:

Yes, pretty crispy modules. My controller box looks similar but says AKO on it, yours shows  Gicar.  So the SSR are inside of this control box? I understand I get a different one with WLL PID kit, is that right?

There is no SSR inside those boxes, just regular old mechanical relays.

 

-- Ira

[Andrey Sychev]

I looked again and it looks many folks upgraded original B2 control box to Gicar brand, looking something like this:   Do you open the box to get to the relays? How do you test them unless they are burned which I don’t think they are in my case as I continue to use the machine and temperature stays put unless I walk away for 45 minutes. I am also considering upgrading to PID kit that essentially includes wires and bits, temperature controller with integrated blue screen and a new temperature probe. So original controller box stays. 

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On Mar 16, 2022, at 3:18 PM, Ira <laz...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Pitcher Pitcher]

Not sure I can answer that. It would seem logical that you would need a new Controller due to PID having to be integrated into your existing.machine. My machine had a PID for at least 12 years. I had to replace it after the meltdown you saw. Hopefully someone from the group that has done what you are doing can give some guidance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mt4pxbG2_YQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYyAA6mnTPo

Found these videos on youtube that might help.

Pitcher

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