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On May 2, 2023, at 19:42, Sam Macaluso <sma...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On May 2, 2023, at 19:44, Ben McCafferty <bmac...@me.com> wrote:
I believe so. I saw Todd chime in, Todd?
On May 2, 2023, at 20:46, Sam Macaluso <sma...@gmail.com> wrote:
Still the same problem :-(
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On May 2, 2023, at 21:02, Ben McCafferty <bmac...@me.com> wrote:
Shoot. Hmmm
Still can't trace as to what is tripping the RCD when the steam boiler kicks in. I've replaced the element and it's still doing it!!
On Wednesday, May 3, 2023 at 2:28:53 PM UTC+10 Sam Macaluso wrote:
Funny you say that because if I disconnect the water level sensor from the control box, it doesnt trip but causes the pump to activate, as soon as I plug it back in, the pump stops and it trips.I'm assuming its tripping because the pressurestat is sending power to the steam boiler.
I've tested for continuity between the rod and the boiler case and nothing.
Couple of things:
(1) If you move the STEAM boiler connections to the BREW boiler,
then turn it on - does it trip? That isolates the element.
Don't, of course, leave it like that for more than a minute or
so! If it trips still, then the fault lies with the wiring back
to the mains supply somewhere, OR,
(2) Does it trip when the pump runs? Could be something with the pump.. Mine has an Ulka vibratory pump and a reservoir, given how the pump is made it'd be difficult to get a fault to earth; but it's still possible..
Assuming (2) is OK, the stuff in circuit is the thermostat at the
top of the steam boiler, the pressurestat and the associated
wiring - including the red Neon on the front panel. If you
disconnect the wire from the boiler and power it up and it trips,
then the fault lies up that path. This is the same diagnostic as
(1) but without a high current load. You can remove the
connectors from the thermostat and short them together to isolate
that. The pressurestat can be removed from circuit by shorting
the mains feed wire to the wire feeding the element/thermostat.
On mine, the neon plugs in too, easily removed. If those fail to
produce a win, I'd be looking at the physical wires and
connectors...
My machine is 240VAC, and doesn't seem to have exactly the same circuit diagram as is shown in the "Brewtus Compendium" PDF you can download from the group files, but the steam side is identical so I assume yours is too :)
While it is tedious being systematic, you do need to be systematic... A multimeter is helpful, but sometimes fails to find high impedance shorts that only show up when significant voltage/current is applied. Plus you need to remember to constantly un-plug the machine while messing about internally... At least, that's what I do having been bitten by something someone else 'turned off' once :)
Cheers
/Kevin
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