On Nov 3, 2021, at 11:03 AM, triplereef <tripl...@gmail.com> wrote:
For what it's worth:I removed my steam boiler completely and secured it to a rig (so thst i wouldn't crush the side walls) and tried to remove it with my pneumatic impact wrench which is a small 250ft-lb IR using a 1 7/16" socket. It didn't budge the sealant that WLL had used during the rebuild.I didn't want to buy new air tools so i took it to a car shop around the corner; their high-torque wrench got it off in a couple seconds.When i reassembled with the new element i used "T plus 2" sealant which is an NSF rated non-hardening pipe sealant rated to withstand 10,000 psi. I have had that sealant on for about a year with no leaks, no pressure loss. I think the hardening epoxy sealant just isn't necessary and modern products are much more practical.--On Tue, Nov 2, 2021, 10:06 PM Dave B <bla...@gmail.com> wrote:happily NO MORE EXPOS FOR SALE !!!--On Sat, Oct 23, 2021 at 6:33 PM 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:Thanks for the tip. Aside of driving to Rochester, is taking brew boiler off the machine and shipping it an option on early B2? Any tips on reaching Todd S.?--Sent from my iPhoneOn Oct 23, 2021, at 12:41 PM, Richard <richard...@gmail.com> wrote:
Some older Brewtus II were manufactured with epoxy thread sealers. Allow boiler to heat up and the bolt will be easy to remove by hand.I had a 2006 Brewtus II and upgraded to PID kit. I could not remove the brew boiler temp probe.I had to travel to WLL in Rochester who told me about the the thread sealer. Exopobar did that for about a year.WLL were able to heat up the brew boiler and then easily removed the bolt.Hint: look at the 2 connectors under the water tank. There are 3 plugs. Swap one of the connectors to the empty plug, turn on the Brewtus II and the boilers will heat up even if water tank is removed.--On Friday, October 22, 2021 at 1:41:58 PM UTC-4 KJM wrote:On 22/10/21 3:49 am, Ira wrote:
Hello 'Andrey,
Thursday, October 21, 2021, 8:25:12 AM, you wrote:
Also impact driver or impact wrench? And would a cordless version handle the glue?
You need a big socket and a 1/2" drive impact, the kind you'd use to remove lug nuts to take it off in place. I've not had to do it yet so I don't know what it entails. Like all things with an impact, be gentle replacing it, hand tighten all the way before trying to tighten it. And then another some amount, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn or something like that. Maybe someone who knows will pop up with an answer.
Sorry - living 0.5 planets away from the conversation means a 12 hour delay :)
I bought an 18V ebay sourced cheap 1/2" impact driver. It takes Makita batteries, and claims 520Nm of torque. It might not do that much, but it does a LOT. I bought it for use on my ute (truck). It has not failed to undo anything as yet! It is mildly amusing to see large tools (a 38mm socket on an impact wrench is not svelte!) being used on what is a kitchen appliance...
I should have said I also used a pick tool - like a dental pick - to chase out the threads in the boiler. The threadseal they used kind of balled up into little blobs and removing it seemed wise.
The boilers are not strongly attached to anything - there is no requirement that they be so, and hence the use of an impact tool. I used it to put the new element in too - these tools just spin the socket till it becomes 'tight' and then start the impact-er-ation. I'd not usually do the re-assembly with one, but I couldn't see how to manage to hold the boiler while conventionally nipping up the new element.. I did pretty much as Ira says above: run it home till it is fully screwed in and then about a 1/8th of a turn in impact mode. Didn't leak. I kind-of thought it might but it has not leaked a drop.
The only complication I had is the new boiler elements have flying leads, the old ones just 2 spade connectors. But a 38mm socket has tons of space so the wires were just smooshed into the spare space and the thing screwed into place.
There is a small hazard though as anyone who has worked inside an Expobar machine would know: the metal parts are sheared and the edges bite the unwary. The circular holes in the frame with the black plastic covers are a case in point....
Happy repairing!
Cheers
/Kevin
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On Dec 6, 2021, at 6:11 PM, Kevin Maciunas <kevin.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Dec 7, 2021, at 7:58 PM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
My meter is a $10 brand new one from Amazon. Does anyone know if unplugging boiler wires and turning on the machine with breaker not tripping indicates a bad heating element?Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 7, 2021, at 7:33 PM, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com> wrote:Wow I also think your meter is broke. Sorry. I remember how frustrated I was when I discovered that all my grandpas old meters were giving false readings.
I now have some auto ranging extechs I got on amazon that's been great. They were $25 but just checked and prices are way up. Auto ranging is nice.
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On Dec 12, 2021, at 4:53 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I received a self ranging $30 multimeter from Amazon and that shows 15v resistance and green continuity on one boiler and zero resistance and zero continuity on the one closer to the head group. I assume this is the failed brew boiler - is that right? Hopefully I can order the replacement heating element from WLL and impact driver and socket from Amazon. Any tips on getting to the heating element through the hole would be appreciated.
On Dec 24, 2021, at 2:14 AM, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com> wrote:
Well color me surprised, I thought the holes were for design but didn’t look usable. Ok, just verified, my socket is too large to fit the hole…
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On Dec 24, 2021, at 2:54 PM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
Folks, I was able to unscrew the old heating element using impact wrench and some extension with 1 7/16 socket however pulling it out the boiler is a challenge. I can see a part of the charred coils but apparently it bursted inside (hence acrylic insulation in the boiler) so wiggling with the pliers may do this trick. Obviously don’t want to destroy the boiler taking it out either. Any suggestions?
On Dec 28, 2021, at 4:09 PM, Herman <herman...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Dec 29, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Herman <herman...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Jan 14, 2022, at 5:34 PM, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com> wrote:
I ended up wrapping mine with a piece of a wool sweater.
On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 10:23:50 AM UTC-8 Andre wrote:And another off topic question for the group- has anyone been able to replace the boilers fiberglass? insulation. Mine isn’t in the best shape especially after flipping machine over with citric acid everywhere. Thanks.
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On Jan 14, 2022, at 7:48 PM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
Thanks Kevin. I think I may have left the boiler sitting opened a bit too long so some of the white stuff dried. WLL said it’s acrylic insulation from inside the heating element that self destructed. I used chopsticks to get some of that stuff up and flipped machine over to drain. Majority of what’s in the photo seems dried up or baked and won’t scrape easily.
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On Jan 17, 2022, at 5:16 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
So I installed the new heating element, checked resistance and continuity again (everything checked out) and turned the machine on. The pump kicked as expected but it’s been sitting on .11 reading for the past hour and doesn’t looks like it’s heating up. Any guesses what could be wrong? Did switched the contacts on one of the heating elements? I connected white/blue wire to one marked with blue paint contact- is that reversed?
On Jan 17, 2022, at 6:33 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Switched the wires but the the problem persists- Brewtus won’t heat up.
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On Jan 18, 2022, at 5:31 PM, Aaron Skelsey <aaron....@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Jan 18, 2022, at 7:20 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Hm, but I did not disconnect any connectors other than heating elements in both boilers. Of course something might have disconnected while I was using impact wrench. What would break the water out of the brew group? I think white stuff made it into the system and the boilers aren’t filling up with water. There was a lot of it in the top connectors of the brew boiler.
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On Jan 19, 2022, at 8:03 PM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
Can someone please point out the line feeding brew boiler and one leading from brew boiler to the group using one of Aaron’s photos below? Also, what would be a suspect part controlling machine heat up and where is that located? Way more photos there: https://coffeesnobs.com.au/forum/equipment/brewing-equipment-pointy-end-1500-3000/836201-expobar-minore-brewtus-ii-repair-rebuild
On Jan 21, 2022, at 12:06 PM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
I removed the water container panel and see all electronic components more clearly now. I noticed what looks like a charred contact on this switch? that fell apart as I attempted to disconnect it. Obviously that needs to be replaced, but could that be a culprit?
On Jan 21, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Andrey Sychev <andr...@aol.com> wrote:
Also noticed that I left steam boiler heating element disconnected- how there wires need to be connected? One is red and the other is blue. Thanks.