Switching B2 to wired Ethernet is a gamechanger

[CF Randall]

This isn't a question for help, but rather a trip report and recommendation.

I've had my B2 for several weeks now, and at first I connected only with the WIFI dongle that shipped with the product. For basic use, it was fine (though fussy with remembering Sonos zones), but I was very frustrated with remote connections for any sort of file manipulation, such as cleaning up file and folder names. (I'm a bit of a control freak in that department.)

I finally went and read the instructions to remove the back panel and inserted a flat CAT6 cable, wired it to a switch in my home office, and it's a night and day difference. Not just for file naming, but for backing up, moving music onto the B2 that was ripped elsewhere, etc.

This is all obvious to most of you, I'm sure, but for anyone on the fence or intimidated by the need to remove the cover to plug in, don't be shy. It's easy (4 small screws), fast, and makes a huge difference!

-Chris

[CF Randall]

Following up my own post for a forgotten note: this wasn't just about connection speed: after a long session of ripping CDs, the WiFi connection would fail silently. Only a reboot would restore it. Not an issue with wired, at least yet.

[fred.w....@gmail.com]

Also doing this DOES NOT void the warranty. You are OK removing the back to connect Ethernet and or to change the SD Card.

As a side note many of us connecting via ethernet do so by inserting a short whip tail Ethernet extension into the back of the B2 so that if you need to move the B2 you can then disconnect the cable without having to remove the back again.

It is also important to remember that with WiFi it is the house Router that is the issue not really the B2.

Fred

[CF Randall]

I like/agree with all but the last part. For me, the B2 was losing its connection after a long ripping session. The other wireless devices were fine, but the B2 couldn't find a network until I restarted it.

Chris

[fred.w....@gmail.com]

But the cause of the loss may not be the B2!

Fred

[James O]

While I had no issue with using Wifi on the B2, I wanted to hardwire the unit. Initially I used a standard CAT5 cable that I trimmed part of the strain relief so the cable would make the bend and be able to pass thru the larger U opening in the chassis. But after thinking about how I was going to use the device in the future, I wanted a "dongle" or pigtail with a female RJ45 port so I would not need to feed my network cable through the cabinet every time I want to take the B2 with me.

After some digging around I found an interesting pigtail on Amazon in the US that had a 90 degree male plug as part of the pigtail. While I did need to trim part of the strain relief with a razor knife to complete the bend to the larger U opening in the rear panel, this 90 degree pigtail worked really well. 

Link for pigtail from Amazon US - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TXM2MPM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I also used the razor knife to cut the ears off the female jack part of this pigtail to reduce the size of the jack.

One note to be careful off, at least my B2 has 2 different screw styles for the rear panel. My unit had 2 "sheet metal" style screw for the upper 2 screws and 2 "machine thread" style screws for the lower 2 screws. While these screws can be easily interchanged, it would be best to put the proper screws in the correct position if your B2 has a similar hardware.

[Mark Fishman]

THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE LOWER TWO SCREWS when sliding out the back panel of the B2. ONLY THE TOP TWO SCREWS hold the back panel in the chassis. The lower two screws hold one of the internal circuit boards to the panel itself.