Thank God Trailer Download

[Victorio Galindo]

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Yesterday I was towing the trailer home after I launched the boat for the weekend and my truck or trailer brakes were jerking/reverberating somewhat violently when I was stopping at red lights. Is this normal when towing without the boat on trailer? Is there something I should do to fix this? Thank you!

could be your surge brakes engaging. if i tow my trailer without boat and stop suddenly, the tongue will compress as the trailer tries to keep going and the surge brakes engage - but only with sudden stops or on downhills, light braking won't do it. Once engaged, doesn't take much for surge brakes to slow down the trailer without boat though, so it may engage/disengage 2-3 times quickly almost like slow-motion anti-lock brakes.

when you brake with the boat back there, you've got thousands of pounds that is trying to run into/push the tow vehicle. thus the tongue compresses and engages the surge brakes to help stop the boat/trailer so the truck can focus on stopping itself. thus, the brakes are engaging with the boat on the trailer, but you don't feel it as they are engaging a single time as you begin to brake and only stop helping when you come to a complete stop. (no bucking bronco)

note these same surge brakes should get locked-out electrically when you go into reverse so that the tongue compression that says "brake" does not engage when you are backing the trailer up a small hill for example. the orange lock-out pin i posted is useful for when you need to reposition/push on a trailer but don't have the full 7-pin hitch (you'll see boatyards do this when moving boats with a fork-truck, or if i use my 4-pin SUV to reposition an empty trailer around in the driveway).

What it means is that the surge brakes are sized for the boat on a boat trailer. A proper tow vehicle doesn't need the trailer brakes when it is empty. Lock the trailer brakes out when boat not on it.

you could probably zip tie or connect it to the trailer. I bought the magnetic one from bakes that allow me to put the lock out into the spot and not have to keep it in. You do not want to leave it in permanently since that will cause the surge brakes to not work.

does the trailer use the 4 pin, 5 pin, or 7 pin hook up to the truck? if it has a 5 or 7 keeping the trailer hooked up to the tuck will use the back up brake lock out to allow you to back up without the breaks locking up on you. we tend to use the lock out when moving the boat when the trailer is not connected to a truck, ie tractor, but have used it a few times when backing up a steep incline.

for your limited use case to avoid bucking while trailer is empty, that lock out will work fine if you tape it good -- else it'll jiggle out almost immediately as they need pressure to hold them in place vs the magnetic ones which are often so strong its a 2-hand job to remove them (and you don't need to remember to have tape on-hand). If using the one above, zip-tie or string is a smart idea to keep it on/with trailer as well or if it comes out.

"After arriving early for a big meeting with the mayor of a bizarre Northern English town, a traveling salesman takes the time to explore and meet the locals, who are all very eager to give him a series of increasingly odd jobs...", says the game's description on Steam.

I've watched the trailer several times and I don't really care what you do in Thank Goodness You're Here. I'm already enthralled by its characters, animation and voice acting, and so I'll do anything that lets me spend more time in its world. Plus, I like the Local Hero-ish setup, and Lily The Pink was the only song I ever enjoyed singing at school assemblies.

Thank Goodness You're Here is being made by Coal Supper, who previously made The Good Time Garden, which Sin described as a nudey entendre adventure. Their new work also brags about "wall-to-wall double entendres" but nudeyness is yet to be confirmed. We'll find out when it releases sometime in 2024.

Ways to adapt, and one NOT to do

If you want a trailer that comes stock with the common 2" ball, you can buy a drawbar-and-ball combo to fit your 1 1/4" hitch receiver, for very little money. I did that when I had a Class I receiver on a Jeep Wrangler.

Just make sure you do not exceed the lowest common denominator. That is, the weakest link in your setup is the limiting factor, regardless how much higher a load other parts can support. It could be any of the following:

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