General Ac Code For Universal Remote
Lola Maroun
One of the greatest inventions that a lot of people take for granted will have to be the universal remote. When you lose the original remote or you can no longer find a replacement for the exact remote, universal remotes from various brands out there come to your rescue. The cool thing about universal remotes is that you can easily program them and set them up to work with almost any TV, cable, or some other electronic products that you have.
There are two ways you can follow to program the remote to your electronic device. Whether you use a TV, a set-top box, or maybe even a DVD or Blu-ray player. There are two methods that you can follow to program the universal remote.
There are different models of GE Universal Remotes, and you can determine which model you have by removing the batteries from the remote and checking the sticker inside. Look for labels such as CL3, CL4, CL5, or CL6 on the sticker. Once you have found the correct one, the list of codes get short and you can find the correct code in less time.
i'm also facing this problem , when i'm doing my first IR project.....but it happens only with my cheap chinese remote , when i tried with panasonic viara remote it works very well..and gives same signal (code) every time ........
I had the same issues.
I could "fix" it by changing the voltage to 3.3 V and decreasing the distance for the cheap remote.
Other remotes (e. g. Onkyo Receiver) work just fine with 3.3 V but not always with 5. The LED on the Arduino board blinks regularly, instead of the irregular blinking while using the cheap remote.
I come years too late to help the original user, but it may help a novice having the same issue:
ground related issues will cause erratic and random like readings. Make sure your Arduino and your peripherals share the same ground.
I have to admit when I read post #46 I said "No way" but unbelievably that worked for me. I have tried 3 original Yamaha, Samsung and LG remotes, a Harmony universal and I Xiaomi IR blaster and all gave me random output all the time. I moved the power for my IR receiver from the breadboard to the Arduino Uno and everything started working. I have tried everything from getting new IR receivers to new remotes and it turned out to be such a simple thing like using the same ground. Armorican you a true hero in my book.
As background, what I'm trying to accomplish is control of an LED strip using the FastLED library, then altering the LED sequence with an IR remote. So far all I've implemented is brightness control, but if I can get this working, there's a whole slew of features I'd like to add.
I took few minutes to test the turboto technic, and it's works, the buttons begin to send the same number on the monitor.(certainly enough to find the correct number, not yet sending test at time, AC remote)
I've read all posts under this topic. I tried 3 different "cheap" remotes (one from Arduino starter kit, two controlling some disco lights) as well as TV Samsung remote; I bought different receiver - nothing helps.
So I've started looking at library implementation. Someone here suggested to remove all Remote Control definitions other than default - it didn't help. I tried to change tolerance under IRrecv::compare - also didn't help...
I was using the WS2812b led strip like user Josh780. I was having a similar issue of the IR sensor reading a different value EVERY single time I pushed the button. But then when I would use a default example code it would work perfectly and always read the correct value (e.g. serial print exactly what values the IR sensor reads). I thought it would store read values in some sort of buffer but it doesn't look that way.
I am working on a project with addressable LEDs (WS2812) that will pulse or move to the music (I know, super unoriginal) and I wanted a way to "switch" led modes and I didn't like just having a single pushbutton. Ironically that had similar timing issues that cause problems with the leds.
Unless you can live with a 500 ms delay in your loop (most of us CAN'T) then the next logical step is to take a HUGE pause, but only when you need to. So whenever the IR sensor reads something, we pause and wait for a REAL reading. The first reading doesn't matter, it's garbage anyway, or you wouldn't be reading this post.
I know this solution won't work for everyone, but it feels DARN NICE to be able to press a special button and ACTUALLY have it do what I meant. The drawback is I have to press the button twice. On the bright side, it feels more like a real consumer product because the leds pause and wait 1 second for input. It just feels like it was meant to be this way.
I was having the same trouble (different inputs whenever the same button was pressed) and I realized that whenever the sensor received an input, an LED on my breadboard lit up. I'm not an electrical engineer but I assumed that there could be some interference with the sensor, so I unplugged it. Now it works just fine.
I am guessing that the IR library just does nor work reliably.
Same problem for years.
I have tried three ir receivers and five remotes. Tried most of the tricks in this thread going back to 2016.
Still no consistent readings.
Even if you were off frequency several kHz, it would still work with reduced range is all. So you are saying that the RAW values (strings of CSV numbers that are negative and positive integers) are consistently received? If so, I believe you can have the library send the data from that format, but it still doesn't help you receive them. It sounded like a simple change to raise the number of bits to 64 from the post I read. Of course, after glancing thru the code, I didn't see it that way. They had left an important piece out of their post; namely which specific format to modify.
Keep in mind that those short numbers are just the library's attempt at figuring out an unknown protocol and condensing it into a more manageable form. If it's not working, you'll need to take a look at the unencoded version of the signal. If you look at it in raw on/off pulse times, patterns should emerge. The code could be too long, it could be sending in two short bursts, or you could have even found a bug. You won't know until you look at the actual signal and figure out why it isn't being handled properly.
I am using the IR remote sensor library. Everything works fine. Now I want that when I press my KEY numbered ' 1 ' on IR remote and successively press the other e.g. volume + , what should be done to to read this complete procedure.
Hi I am ajay.
I am beginner in arduino software. I just want to know the code for ir receiver, i am having arduino uno board along with TSOPSM0038 IR Receiver i just want to know the coding for this program can any one help me please.
After a bit of debugging and looking at the data stream it appears that the remote is giving a reasonable result, but the tolerance that the library tries when decoding an unknown data stream is too high. By opening the tolerance I am now getting a consistent result.
Update - I disabled all known protocols in the header file and it decodes perfectly as an UNKNOWN type. So the next question would be - why does it get tricked into falsely accepting the codes as NEC, JVC? I did try tightening the spec to 0.95 while I was experimenting but that didn't work. At least, I have it working for what I need.
In my case, the remote wasn't the problem, but the receiver was. I had different readings all the time. With every remote. Includig the expensive ones. So I tryed a different IR reciever. That wordked. No different readings anymore. So I suggest you change the IR reciever.
ffpbar:
In my case, the remote wasn't the problem, but the receiver was. I had different readings all the time. With every remote. Includig the expensive ones. So I tryed a different IR reciever. That wordked. No different readings anymore. So I suggest you change the IR reciever.
Not necessary. I have been getting extremely similar raw readings every time. You can see that if you look at the raw IR dumps I posted above. It is only the 32 bit hash value that was screwed up. Since I disabled the manufacturers protocols as I described above, the same receiver works flawlessly every time.
The present question is, why do the decode functions for the manufacturers protocols fail so badly, generating false positives with this transmitter? By the way, for reference, it's the Senlian RM-408C.
aarg:
Update - I disabled all known protocols in the header file and it decodes perfectly as an UNKNOWN type. So the next question would be - why does it get tricked into falsely accepting the codes as NEC, JVC? I did try tightening the spec to 0.95 while I was experimenting but that didn't work. At least, I have it working for what I need.
I am using my PM5.1s with a DD5.1 as a HT. I would like to use a universal remote control for all my components. Does any body know of a remote that will work with the Klipsch DD-5.1 or a compatible product code? Such as the universal remote code for the Klipsch DD-5.1 is equivalent to that of the RCA tuner control setting for a particular brand of universal remote. I am aware of some truly universal remotes but would like to keep the cost in the realm of reality, or at least my reality , of about $30 US.
I know that you want to do everything and pay nearly nothing for it, but what you want is a 'Learning/Programmable' Universal Remote. Go to Best Buy, Circuit City, The Good Guys or similar consumer electronics store and select one - you may have to exchange the first few until you find the one with the right combination of features for your needs.
However, that being said, I would highly recommend the 'MX-500 Home Theater Master' ( ). It has the best combination of LCD display screen and familiar remote buttons. The other touch screen type require a lot more familiarity to be usefull in the dark, therefore less convenient to occassional users.
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