Zone 1 Energy

[Armonia Bunda]

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I have some doubt about how to calculate a zone's energy balance manually, using EnergyPlus output variables. Using a most simple model with only walls and no window, light, equipment, people, infiltration and a simple ac this works quite well (i.e. balance is close to zero), summing up these variables:

As far as I understand the EP manual the inside conduction should get quite close to what is actually transferred by a wall. At least in a case with more zones and an interior wall between them the both values of the two zones match quite closely. The according convective variables should give the heat transferred from the wall to the air, right?

The reason for the question is an analysis where I want to check through which surface most heat enter the zone and I fully agree that there could (should??) be a simple solution for this from the side of EP, which we have been discussing here as well.CheersChris

How far from zero? The items you listed shouldn't sum exactly to zero because the HVAC controller almost never keeps the zone air exactly at setpoint. The net amount of energy that doesn't balance will cause the space temperature to slightly drift up or down in the next time-step.

And in the zone air balance heat equation, it is not the 'inside face conduction heat transfer' rate that represents the heat transmission through envelope, but those capturing the heat transfer between the surface and the air. But all in all, in my opinion getting a manual heat balance in EP is not a trivial task and it is a pity as it can be very helpful to understand the building performance. I had put a request to address this issue in the feedback site.

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I see that you are going through the crazy navigation of the E+ outputs for the ideal air system that took me over a year of trial and error to figure out (it is crazy how E+ has hundreds of outputs but lacks some of the really important ones). Hopefully, you can fet through this discovery faster then it took me. To go down the list:

We currently do not have humidity co trol but adding this should have a minimal effect as air based cooling systems already remove a lot of the humidity by having a low supply air temoerature. This said, humidity control is easy to implement if anyone wants to have a go at editing the ideal air system template that we use.

The Ideal Air System provides minimum outdoor air ventilation while also satisfying the thermal loads of the space. So you can conceptually think of the energy needed to heat/cool this minimum outdoor air as a separate term of the energy balance from the heating/cooling that the Ideal Air System does directly to the zone itself (eg. removing heat gains of people, lights, solar, etc).

@chris Does it mean that two values are different only when oa has no need to be conditioned by hvac system, in this case system oa energy is 0 while zone oa energy still has value? Otherwise, two value is same?

@gogog ,

If you set the HB Zone ventilationPerArea and ventilationPerPerson to 0, then yes, these two outputs (supply air total and zone total) should be equal to one another. At that point, the Ideal Air system will only be satisfying the heating/cooling demands of the zone and not introducing any outdoor air into the zone.

Hi everyone,

I was just reading this post (which I find very interesting) and found information about some of the outputs that you were commenting. I leave you the link in case it is useful for you!

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2012 edition of code establishing a baseline for energy efficiency by setting performance standards for the building envelope (defined as the boundary that separates heated/cooled air from unconditioned, outside air), mechanical systems, lighting systems and service water heating systems in homes and commercial businesses.

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Jason,

For the purposes of the IECC (which uses the climate zone map developed by the U.S. Department of Energy), all of Massachusetts is in a single climate zone -- namely Climate Zone 5. Our website has the climate zone map on our Q&A page.

In your question, the second link that you provided brings you to an article ("Calculating the Minimum Thickness of Rigid Foam Sheathing") that answers your question about foam thickness. In your climate zone (zone 5), a 2x6 wall needs at least R-7.5 of rigid foam. So 1 inch of XPS isn't enough.

Ok, thanks for confirming what I thought. The thing that threw me off is that the title of the page in my first link says climate zone 5 and 4 marine. It seems that If i go the route of xps that I will need custom extension jams on all my windows.

But better yet would be to go with 2x4 16" o.c. framing and 2" of roofing-iso (or a double layer of 1" foil-faced.) There are multiple vendors of reclaimed roofing iso in MA- search your local craislist for "rigid insulation", and you'll likely find a least one. (There's also The Insulation Depot in Framingham. )With 2" roofing iso you'd have R10-R11 of more rugged higher-density foam on the exterior, and HUGE margin on dew point, and the same or better thermal performance as 1" XPS on 2x6 OVE framing, in a wall 1" thinner than your non-compliant stackup.

MA code is based on IRC 2009, and the code minimum wall-R can be either R20 cavity insulation in 2x6 (no insulating sheathing foam), or R13 cavity fill in 2x4 plus R5 continuous sheathing insulation. After factoring in the thermal bridging either will have a nearly identical "whole-wall-R", of between R13-R15, after the gypsum & siding get added in.

R5 sheathing insulation is sufficient for dew point control on 2x4 construction, but not for 2x6, but there is nothing to keep you from adding even more foam. On deep energy retrofits of existing 2x4 framed homes in MA it's common to add between 3-6" of exterior insulation. The more exterior insulation you have, the warmer the sheathing stays, reducing the mold hazard.

The Sun's core is the central region where nuclear reactions consume hydrogen to form helium. These reactions release the energy that ultimately leaves the surface as visible light. These reactions are highly sensitive to temperature and density. The individual hydrogen nuclei must collide with enough energy to give a reasonable probability of overcoming the repulsive electrical force between these two positively charged particles. The temperature at the very center of the Sun is about 15,000,000 C (27,000,000 F) and the density is about 150 g/cm (approximately 10 times the density of gold, 19.3 g/cm or lead, 11.3 g/cm). Both the temperature and the density decrease as one moves outward from the center of the Sun. The nuclear burning is almost completely shut off beyond the outer edge of the core (about 25% of the distance to the surface or 175,000 km from the center). At that point the temperature is only half its central value and the density drops to about 20 g/cm.

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