Rsx Shifter
Armonia Bunda
In order to properly research this sandwich, I decided to visit no less than seven local eateries, all with a shifter on the menu. I also decided (before sampling any sandwiches, I should mention) to design a grading system that would allow me to judge each sandwich based on its own merits. The sandwiches were all graded heavily on ingredients (including historical correctness), freshness, and overall taste. I also threw in a few points for portion and price, as well as up to a half a point for presentation. I know adding presentation to the grading is a bit obtuse, but I like being given a sandwich that looks like it was made with care. With all of that in mind, I have come up with (in my humble opinion) the best shifter sandwiches in the area. All scores are on a 1-10 basis.
Having spent considerable time using pitching shifting on the Kemper, AxeFX II, AxeFX III, and now QC in live settings, they all exhibit same kind of artifacting. The more the pitch is shifted, the more gain is sapped. Pitching up is considerably worse than pitching down. Weaker transients (tapping, etc.) have worse tracking. Phasing and tracking issues are generally more noticeable with cleaner sounds.
Same issue here. I find it usable with distorted sounds but with clean it sounds pretty bad. I dont think its a fault or failing i just dont think the pitch shifter is great. Would love to see it bettered in a update. Woild be really cool to pitch down for baritone cleans.
Hi @Tahopton87 and welcome to the community!
Please reach out to sup...@neuraldsp.com and they will get you sorted and get this logged.
There are multiple variables for the glitching noises and or it could be a bug that can be resolved in future updates but support is 100% the best process to get that resolved for you.
Could someone provide me a circuit diagram to make the CD40109B (or equivalent chip) level shifter to shift a 3.3V data signal to roughly 20 volts (15-20 V boost would be okay)? I need to boost the data signal to drive it down a very long data transmission line. I have read the technical datasheet on this chip but it is not very helpful for examples. My data transmission speed is 115200 bps. Thanks for any help I can get.
This is what the device looks like. You connect 3.3V supply to Vcc, 20V supply to Vdd, GND to Vss, tie all the enable pins together and connect to Vcc unless you want to disable any of the signals at any point. A, B, C, D are inputs and E, F, G, H are outputs respectively.
100nF is the correct value for the decoupling caps. However as shown in the image you need two of them. Otherwise you are tying the supplies together which is very dangerous. Place these caps as close as you can to the device on the board.
I ordered and connected up a CD40109BE chip the exact same as the wiring schematic attached. I apply a 3.3v digital signal to Input A(3), 3.3 volt power to VCC(1), and 18V power to VDD(16) and the output signal looks identical except is only about 1.3 volts peak to peak. In the picture of my actual bread board, the left power strip is 3.3V and the right power strip is 18V. The orange wire connecting to pin 3 is 3.3V digital signal input. The brown wire right beside it runs to channel 1 of my oscilloscope. The red wire on pin 4 is output signal and connects to channel 2 of my oscilloscope. I have connected the grounds together from both my 3.3V and 18V power supplies aswell as the ground from the signal generator.
Its probably a mistake on my behalf, something really simple you might be able to spot easily. Wondering if you could have a look and see if there is anything obviously wrong? Thank you again for the help!
What I could find on reddit, there is a way to make it work. Make a custom button bind, which would make it work - no possibility to check that yet though. You will have to bind each gear to your shifter. If anyone wants to try, feel free.
You might have to do what i do with my T248 and when i had it TMX :
1.Load the game up with a controller, the wheel is fully off at this point
2. Do something like enter freeroam, clicking a couple of buttons tho should do, as long as input has gonw into the game,
3. Turn your wheel on making sure you had manual w/clutch selected before even opening the game
4. As the wheel is turning on turn the contoller off,
5. When entering freeroam give the game a couple of seconds to get the clutch,
PLS NOTE that you cannot change anypart of your difficulty settings and that this isnt 100% reliable and works 9 times out if 10. This may not work for PC or Logitech wheels butbits what ive found works, pain in the butt? Yes but gives you the clutch
I have a 6 months old Canyon Aeroad SLX with SRAM ETAP and have changed the shifter batteries 3 times. Almost to the day the shifters both stop working after 2 months and 20 hours normal training rides in 75deg dry weather. The dr rechargeable batteries work great, hold charge and last a while. Is this normal as these smal cell batteries are a pain in the ass to change at the start of a ride so often.
For a project with a WS2812b and ESP8266 I was under the impression I needed to convert the 3.3v data out from the NodeMCU to 5v using a logic level shifter. The project is working, but without using the logic level shifter, as soon as I hook up the logic level shifter it doesn't work.
Using my multi meter I did some measurements.
on HV and GND I measure 4.9v
on LV and GND I measure 3.3v
on HV4 and GND I measure 4.9v
When I try and measure LV4 my multi meter automatically goes to the mv range and it's climbing so something already seems wrong to me at this point.
This is the part I am using. This is one of the guides I've been using to figure this out. It all seems pretty straightforward, so I'm really bashing my head in trying to figure out what I am missing here.
Now you could get away with this if you powered the WS2812B with 3.3/0.7 = 4.71V That's another way of achieving this, BUT, that would require a power supply with a non-standard voltage [of 4.71V]. Not, so "off the shelf".
If so, try using LV2:HV2, etc. to see if the issue is bad part(s)s on the Level Converter.
And if that doesn't do it, then perhaps I don't understand how to use the Converter! OR, the issue may be that the Level Converter just can't switch fast enough to properly convey the data signal transitions -- the timing is pretty fast and persnickety! I couldn't find any timing information on the SparkFun site.
I forget whether your "WS2812B" is a single device, or a string. If it's a single device, or a string that draws, worst case, less than 1A, then you can do it like this [thus avoiding the Level Converter all together]:
Schematic03.png928588 52.2 KB
BUT, since the 1N4004 [or 1N4005 or 1N4006 or 1N4007] has an upper forward current limit of 1 Amp, this will only work if the WS2812B system draws less that 1A worst case. This is not the most efficient solution -- some power will be lost in the diode, but at less then 1A, it's no too bad. If the WS2812B system uses MORE than 1A, you could use a diode with a higher current rating, but this will make it even more inefficient [i.e. greater wasted power] -- but it that's no big deal, have at it.
You could also use an adjustable power supply to supply 3.3/0.7 = 4.71V [and I would drop that by 5% to make sure all tolerance is conformed with -- so: 4.71*.95 = 4.48V]. Make sure the supply can deliver the current needed, and I would go with 150% more current, at least. So, if the worst case current demand [from that WS2812B system] is, say, 3A, then use a supply that can deliver, at least, 4.5A -- UNLESS you are sure that it will rarely actually draw the full 3A, in which case, you can get away with something more like a 3A supply -- get the picture?
ReverseEMF:
Very strange. It looks correct to me -- as long as the Green wire [from the level converter] is going to the DIN on the WS8212B. The red wire is going to +V and the Black wire is going to Gnd.
ReverseEMF:
If so, try using LV2:HV2, etc. to see if the issue is bad part(s)s on the Level Converter.
And if that doesn't do it, then perhaps I don't understand how to use the Converter! OR, the issue may be that the Level Converter just can't switch fast enough to properly convey the data signal transitions -- the timing is pretty fast and persnickety! I couldn't find any timing information on the SparkFun site.
I've seen some post on reddit of someone running into the problem you just described. I don't think he used the word persnickety, but it was definitely something along those lines. I think he (and apperantly adafruit) recommended to get the SN74AHCT125 shifters for this reason.
But that's why I tried setting up the arduino seeing if I could just do a simple test there (where timing might not matter) to see if the level shifters are at fault. The thing is, I made a little mistake when buying these shifters and didn't notice they came in a 5 pack... So I've already tested 2 so far, neither worked. Now I have 20 of these things around with no purpose and I at least want to see one of them work
You simply don't. The RGB shield for the WeMOS D1 Mini series has the WS2812 driven directly from the ESP8266 and works just fine. Mind you, the connection between the two is less than an inch long so the series resistor is unnecessary.
If you must use a level shifter, a 74HCT14 is perfect for the job but a 74HC14 or 74HC04 should work fine. Just connect two gates in series so that it is non-inverting. The rise time of the "bidirectional" level shifter modules may be a problem and the SN74AHCT125 is absurd overkill.
Well, if you can do SMD soldering, and if you can get your hands on some 2.2k and 1k 0805 surface mount resistors [or maybe 0603], and then try replacing those 10k resistors [on the level converter] with 2.2k -- and if that doesn't do it, try the 1k resistors. The lower resistance may speed that thing up enough to get a proper signal.
It works as in it gives me a nice sunrise when I send the correct message via MQTT
With the level converter nothing happens. (well, the nodeMCU works and is connected MQTT, the LED's don't do anything though)