Stair Handrail Wood
Argelia Long
Built to the highest standards, each of our premium quality handrails is manufactured in the USA. Using advanced machinery and custom dedicated tooling, our expert craftsman work hard to ensure that your handrail will be a stable centerpiece for your staircase. Explore our Finished Projects page to find your favorite design. If you have any questions, give us a call!
Hardwood handrail profiles are available in any wood species. Custom wood handrails are our specialty. We can produce commercial hardwood handrails in straight, bending, and tight radius versions. Please send us your specifications for quotation.
Wood handrail for interior stairs, offered in many wood species. Please note: while our wood stair railing profiles are only offered in the most popular wood species online, which are: red oak, poplar hard maple, and cherry, our stair handrails are available in almost a wood species you can imagine. If you don't see the wood type you would like, please contact us for a quick quote.
Please contact us for pricing on interior wood handrail wood species you are unable to find on this site. We will provide you with a formal quote ASAP. We also can quote custom handrails and custom bending handrails for curved stairs within 2 business days.
Red oak, poplar, and hard maple wood handrails are in stock for quick ship. Some wood handrails are in stock in american cherry. White oak, brazilian cherry (jatoba), soft maple, african mahogany, santos mahogany, lyptus, walnut, hickory, ash, birch, white pine, yellow pine, alder and antique heart pine, have a 2 week lead time to manufacture. The visual statement of a fine hardwood handrail system in any wood species, provides grand elegance to any luxury home or commercial property. Wood and iron stair railing installation is available in the metro Chicago area. Prefab custom wood staircases manufactured to your specifications are available and shipped internationally. We have shipped our stair railings to all 50 states, Canada, Japan, and many Caribbean Islands.
Sign up below...Be the first to hear about our featured promotions, coupons and giveaways. Hear how your partnership serves others through your purchase @StairParts! Be the first to also receive the newest stair products released from StairParts!
We have two sets of stairs, a hallway, and hand rails that needed renovating. We had a few contractors come out to look at the scope of work and give us a quote. It was definitely a hefty project, and the total quote was above our budget. We decided to leave the stairs to the professionals, and attempt the railings and posts ourselves. We had wanted to keep the same balusters, but it was difficult to remove them without breaking during the renovation. We ended up having to buy new ones. We found
Some renovations require expensive tools that may not be worth it if you are only doing the project once! In this case, a good detail sander and a few scrapers did the trick! I ended up purchasing the Milwaukee M12 Detail Sander specifically for this project. It is an amazing little sander and well worth the extra money. It packs a lot of power in a small package and gets into tight, awkward places better than any other sander I have used. There were a few times when I found my more powerful random orbital sander was needed for a couple stubborn spots.
STRIPPING THE OLD STAIN
We began removing the worn-out red mahogany finish by scraping it with card scrapers to reveal the beautiful red oak hiding underneath. When sharp, card scrapers do an amazing job of safely removing the thin top layer of material without the need for rough, heavy sanding and the dust that sanding creates. These scrapers can be pulled or pushed across the surface depending on the angle and needed leverage. Use a set that includes both straight-edged scrapers for flat areas and curved-edged scrapers for areas that are gently rounded. Best of all, using a scraper is so much more satisfying than using a loud sander. For extra tight and hard-to-reach areas, we found it best to use sanding mesh and files to remove the remaining old finish.
PREPPING THE SURFACE
Once all the old finish was removed it was time to prep the surface for the new finish. The goal was simply to remove any residual staining from the old finish and smooth out the surface. The detail sander and sanding mesh did a very good job with this task especially on the heavy curved areas. All areas were hit with 80 grit then followed with 120 grit. The top of the handrail was also hit with 180 grit to ensure a smooth finish.
Before applying the finish, the rails and posts need to be thoroughly cleaned of all dust. We used a vacuum with a hose and a soft-bristled head to clean all surfaces, and followed up with a quick wipe using a tack cloth. The goal is to remove as much dust as possible from the surface before applying the finish. Residual dust can cause tiny bumps, called nibs, to form on the wood surface after the finish dries, so it is important to remove all possible dust. I always do an additional final wipe with a tack cloth right before applying the finish to an area as well. Never wipe down the wood with a wet rag or water-based cleaning solution to clean raw wood, as it will cause the wood grain to swell and you will have to sand it smooth all over again. Not fun!
At this point, the railings and posts looked brand new. I am always amazed at the beauty of natural oak and wonder why it is so commonly covered up with stain. We love the look of raw oak and wanted the natural color and grains of the oak to shine. Although we would have liked to get the stairs and railings to the same tone, that is another dilemma we may address another day.
Stair handrailing has many various options depending on the desired look. These factors include straight handrailing, curved or both, post-to-post or continuous, handrail profile, plow and of course wood species.
A Post to Post system in one in which the handrail begins and ends at a post. This type of fitting requires no transition fittings to flow over the post; however fittings may be required in other circumstances in this type of system.
A continuous handrail system is one in which the handrail flows smoothly over the top of any posts. The handrail begins with a starting fitting such as a volute or start cap and continues over the top of intermediate posts using transition fittings like tandem caps or quarter turn newel caps.
While all of our handrails are designed for comfort some are larger than others and if this is of particular concern perhaps a mid to small dimension profile would best suit your needs.
Finally it is important to insure that the bottom dimension of the handrail will accommodate the top of the baluster to which it is attached. Our most popular is the 6010 handrail. If you are using square top traditional or craftsman balusters you will also need to decide whether you will be using a plowed system or surface mounted system.
Browse our selection of handrail profiles below or contact us to get a quote for your project. Mouldings One can also reproduce period-accurate stair handrail styles for historic renovation projects.
Each piece in our collection is more than a mere functional element; it is a work of art, meticulously crafted to enhance the grandeur of your space. Our handrails are selected from the finest quality woods, ensuring durability, beauty, and a touch of sophistication.
You want to ensure your handrail either compliments or contrasts your staircase and works within the interior design of your home. Otherwise, a poorly matched handrail can end up disrupting the style continuity of your home between the first and second floors.
Yes, our experts can match any handrail profile. Utilizing detailed photographs, architectural drawings, CAD files, or physical samples, our process ensures a perfect replication of any original or historic handrail.
Our handrail selection features esteemed North American domestic hardwoods including pine, oak, walnut, and maple, as well as a range of exotic woods, each chosen for its distinct beauty and durability.
This height range is optimal for providing support and stability, aligning with the natural posture and movement of most individuals. It is a crucial detail in crafting an environment that is not only safe but also exudes a sense of natural order and elegance.
Our complete line of wood handrail and fittings allow you to assemble railings for just about any application. Handrail fittings are used to twist, lift or change elevations of the rail, they also join two handrails or fittings at different angles in a graceful and pleasing manner.
I recently found myself in need of a new handrail on the steps coming down from my back porch. While the project had the novelty (at least for me) of requiring cement anchors...overall the project seemed pretty straight-forward so I decide to take it on.
Additionally, I've included a link to a video showing the process. While I have left out details for the sake of brevity (and thrown in some humor), the video still gives a pretty good idea of what I did. So check that out if you'd like
In the following steps I will be sure to fill in the gaps on all the steps so that when your backyard stairs (or any other exterior stairs for that matter) need some attention, you'll know just what to do.
I decided that I could either mount the posts into the top of the steps or on the side face of the stairs. You can see from the pictures that one side of the stairs already has handrails installed, there the builder opted to mount the posts to the top of the steps with some specialized mounting brackets and braces. I didn't like that option. Despite all the bracing on the other handrail, the whole thing still shifts when you lean on it...I wanted mine to be solid.
Because there IS a handrail already installed, I wanted to match it so the new one didn't stand out. So I went with 3 posts spaced every other step ..like the previously installed handrail had been done. I also had to decide how far the posts were going to go down the side of the steps. After some thought I decided to have them go nearly all the way to the ground. I don't want them to touch the ground because that is a spot where moisture could get trapped and lead to premature rot in the posts. So how far did I have them come off the ground? Well I chose 1.5"
c80f0f1006