High Power 802.11b G N Usb Adapter Driver Download
Tisa Timchak
The LEDD1B driver is designed to drive high-power LEDs with currents from 200 mA to 1200 mA. It features an adjustable LED current limit to protect the connected LED. The output current limit can be adjusted continuously from 0.2 A to 1.2 A using the key slot on the front of the unit (shown above), thereby ensuring the output current does not exceed the limit regardless of the other settings or the modulation input voltage.
The LEDD1B driver is compatible with our collimated, uncollimated, PCB-mounted, diffuse backlight, and fiber-coupled LEDs, as well as with select unmounted LEDs offered by Thorlabs for which the maximum forward DC current is higher than 200 mA. When driving these LEDs, care must be taken to ensure the LEDD1B current limit is set at or below the LED's maximum forward DC current rating. Set the current limit (see above) by rotating the arrow direction with a flathead screwdriver (one flathead screwdriver is included with each LEDD1B).
Multi-LED Source
A customizable multi-LED source can be constructed using our mounted high-power LEDs and other Thorlabs items. This source may be configured for integration with Thorlabs' flexible SM1 Lens Tube Systems, 30 mm Cage Systems, and microscope adapters. Please see the Multi-LED Source tab for a detailed item list and instructions. Thorlabs also offers integrated, user-configurable 4-Wavelength LED Sources that can be driven using our four-channel LED drivers.
The compact LEDD1B T-Cube is capable of driving LEDs with currents from 200 mA to 1200 mA. The output power can be varied using the manual control knob and modulated using an external trigger signal; the maximum output current is set using an adjuster on the front of the T-Cube. One flathead screwdriver to adjust the current limit and one CAB-LEDD1 connection cable are included with each LEDD1B.
The 4-Pin M8 connection cable can be used to connect the high-power LEDs on metal core PCB or other custom LEDs to the following Thorlabs LED drivers: LEDD1B, DC2200, DC4100, and DC4104 (the latter two require the DC4100-HUB).
Hey guys,
I'm sure this question has been asked and answered before but I couldn't find a clear answer fitting my case.
I have 8x High power LED strips which I use for lighting my indoor garden as it doesn't get much natural sunlight in my below-ground apartment.
I want to be able to connect each LED strips to a separate ESP32 board and a MOSFET so that I can control each strip separately.
According to the seller, each LED strip draws 20W at 5V.
My first question, this sounds quite high. Is it likely that they draw this much power, or is the seller just wrong?
My second question is, how do I power them? Ideally I'd want to have each strip powered individually so that I can place them in different places without having to run wires to all of them. My first thought was buying multiple 5v5a USB power adapters, but buying 8-10 of them gets expensive quickly.
If I were to have one PSU for all 8 strips, what PSU would I need? I reaslize I need a PSU that outputs at least 5v 160w. How do I connect the LEDs? Should they be in parallel, or in series?
@irmihorwi
I would like more details on the specs of your LEDs
What I have used in the past:
I have used this Black Box part from Meanwell to power LED strips of all types
[Mean well DC-DC Constant Current Step-Down LED Driver LDD-H Series] ( -H/LDD-H-SPEC.PDF)
If this will work...
You can power large strips of LEDs with them. They have a range from 300ma to 1500ma
The dining and power-off range will allow you to control with as little as 2.5V all the way to 6V:
Power ON with dimming: DIM -Vin >2.5 6VDC or open circuit
Power OFF : DIM -Vin < 0.8VDC or short
Dimming: 100 1KHz
You would most likely drive the LEDs directly without any resistors when using this driver.
Z
High-power LED's: the future of lighting!
but... how do you use them? where do you get them?
1-watt and 3-watt Power LED's are now widely available in the $3 to $5 range, so i've been working on a bunch of projects lately that use them. in the process it was bugging me that the only options anyone talks about for driving the LED's are: (1) a resistor, or (2) a really expensive electronic gizmo. now that the LED's cost $3, it feels wrong to be paying $20 for the device to drive them!
So I went back to my "Analog Circuits 101" book, and figured out a couple of simple circuits for driving power LED's that only cost $1 or $2.
This instructable will give you a blow-by-blow of all the different types of circuits for powering Big LED's, everything from resistors to switching supplies, with some tips on all of them, and of course will give much detail on my new simple Power LED driver circuits and when/how to use them (and i've got 3 other instructables so far that use these circuits). Some of this information ends up being pretty useful for small LED's too
here's my other power-LED instructables, check those out for other notes & ideas
This article is brought to you by MonkeyLectric and the Monkey Light bike light.
Switching regulators, aka "DC-to-DC", "buck" or "boost" converters, are the fancy way to power an LED. they do it all, but they are pricey. what is it they "do" exactly? the switching regulator can either step-down ("buck") or step-up ("boost") the power supply input voltage to the exact voltage needed to power the LED's. unlike a resistor it constantly monitors the LED current and adapts to keep it constant. It does all this with 80-95% power efficiency, no matter how much the step-down or step-up is.
Pros:
- consistent LED performance for a wide range of LED's and power supply
- high efficiency, usually 80-90% for boost converters and 90-95% for buck converters
- can power LED's from both lower or higher voltage supplies (step-up or step-down)
- some units can adjust LED brightness
- packaged units designed for power-LED's are available & easy to use
Cons:
- complex and expensive: typically about $20 for a packaged unit.
- making your own requires several parts and electrical engineering skillz.
One off-the-shelf device designed specially for power-led's is the Buckpuck from LED Dynamics. I used one of these in my power-led headlamp project and was quite happy with it. these devices are available from most of the LED web stores.
lets get to the new stuff!
The first set of circuits are all small variations on a super-simple constant-current source.
Pros:
- consistent LED performance with any power supply and LED's
- costs about $1
- only 4 simple parts to connect
- efficiency can be over 90% (with proper LED and power supply selection)
- can handle LOTS of power, 20 Amps or more no problem.
- low "dropout" - the input voltage can be as little as 0.6 volts higher than the output voltage.
- super-wide operation range: between 3V and 60V input
Cons:
- must change a resistor to change LED brightness
- if poorly configured it may waste as much power as the resistor method
- you have to build it yourself (oh wait, that should be a 'pro').
- current limit changes a bit with ambient temperature (may also be a 'pro').
So to sum it up: this circuit works just as well as the step-down switching regulator, the only difference is that it doesn't guarantee 90% efficiency. on the plus side, it only costs $1.
Simplest version first:
"Low Cost Constant Current Source #1"
This circuit is featured in my simple power-led light project.
How does it work?
- Q2 (a power NFET) is used as a variable resistor. Q2 starts out turned on by R1.
- Q1 (a small NPN) is used as an over-current sensing switch, and R3 is the "sense resistor" or "set resistor" that triggers Q1 when too much current is flowing.
- The main current flow is through the LED's, through Q2, and through R3. When too much current flows through R3, Q1 will start to turn on, which starts turning off Q2. Turning off Q2 reduces the current through the LED's and R3. So we've created a "feedback loop", which continuously monitors the LED current and keeps it exactly at the set point at all times. transistors are clever, huh!
- R1 has high resistance, so that when Q1 starts turning on, it easily overpowers R1.
- The result is that Q2 acts like a resistor, and its resistance is always perfectly set to keep the LED current correct. Any excess power is burned in Q2. Thus for maximum efficiency, we want to configure our LED string so that it is close to the power supply voltage. It will work fine if we don't do this, we'll just waste power. this is really the only downside of this circuit compared to a step-down switching regulator!
setting the current!
the value of R3 determines the set current.
Calculations:
- LED current is approximately equal to: 0.5 / R3
- R3 power: the power dissipated by the resistor is approximately: 0.25 / R3. choose a resistor value at least 2x the power calculated so the resistor does not get burning hot.
so for 700mA LED current:
R3 = 0.5 / 0.7 = 0.71 ohms. closest standard resistor is 0.75 ohms.
R3 power = 0.25 / 0.71 = 0.35 watts. we'll need at least a 1/2 watt rated resistor.
Parts used:
R1: small (1/4 watt) approximately 100k-ohm resistor (such as: Yageo CFR-25JB series)
R3: large (1 watt+) current set resistor. (a good 2-watt choice is: Panasonic ERX-2SJR series)
Q2: large (TO-220 package) N-channel logic-level FET (such as: Fairchild FQP50N06L)
Q1: small (TO-92 package) NPN transistor (such as: Fairchild 2N5088BU)
Maximum limits:
the only real limit to the current source circuit is imposed by NFET Q2. Q2 limits the circuit in two ways:
1) power dissipation. Q2 acts as a variable resistor, stepping down the voltage from the power supply to match the need of the LED's. so Q2 will need a heatsink if there is a high LED current or if the power source voltage is a lot higher than the LED string voltage. (Q2 power = dropped volts * LED current). Q2 can only handle 2/3 watt before you need some kind of heatsink. with a large heatsink, this circuit can handle a LOT of power & current - probably 50 watts and 20 amps with this exact transistor, but you can just put multiple transistors in parallel for more power.
2) voltage. the "G" pin on Q2 is only rated for 20V, and with this simplest circuit that will limit the input voltage to 20V (lets say 18V to be safe). if you use a different NFET, make sure to check the "Vgs" rating.
thermal sensitivity:
the current set-point is somewhat sensitive to temperature. this is because Q1 is the trigger, and Q1 is thermally sensitive. the part nuber i specified above is one of the least thermally sensitive NPN's i could find. even so, expect perhaps a 30% reduction in current set point as you go from -20C to +100C. that may be a desired effect, it could save your Q2 or LED's from overheating.